I have a 2002 ford excursion. I know they have cali emissions. It runs fine then suddenly dies while driving. We've replaced the glow plug switch and relay. Neither one fixed the problem. we washed the motor a while back and it fried the programmer wiring.
View 7 RepliesFirst off, I have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3L so I have a GPCM and not a glow plug relay.
I'm getting a P0683 code. My SES light is on all the time. I have a voltmeter plugged into the dash outlet and based on prior behavior, it is definitely not lighting the glow plugs now. The voltage isn't dropping enough. It only goes down to 12.35v or so when the engine is cold. This time of year, it gets to around 70 during the day and 45 or so at night so the plugs aren't strictly needed. It starts without any problem at all.
I'm not sure what could be wrong. The connections are all tight to the GPCM. I've wiggled and pushed them in as far as they go. I recently did a lot of work to the engine, including new injectors, glow plugs, 38R, etc. and I've never had this code before doing any of that work.
I've read a bunch of threads on it... is there any way to troubleshoot this, or do I just get a new GPCM? Can I convert to a GPR? I don't plan on having to pass CA smog as I'm probably moving at the end of the year.
I have a 2000 Excursion with the 7.3L. We bought it in February of last year with 81,000 miles on it, and it has 111,000 miles on it now.
First problem:
It threw a code today: P0683 indicating a communication issue between the Glow Plug Control Module and PCM Communication Circuit. Other than the code, the truck isn't doing anything out of the ordinary today. Drove it about 40 miles, up to 80 MPH, problem three below did show it's head once, but other than that it ran great.
Second problem:
Ever since we've owned the vehicle it has done a strange surging/near-stalling thing (for lack of a better word) when it's started up. It only does it occasionally, and the problem seems to appear, and then go away for several weeks or months only to reappear. Here's how it goes:
- Start truck
- After starting the truck immediately begins to surge (rev?) and then nearly stall.
- It will do this over and over, about one surge/near-stall cycle per second, until I tap the accelerator, at which point it stops immediately. So far it has never stopped on it's own, but has always stopped with a tap of the accelerator.
Up until recently I chalked this up to "huh, that's weird" since the truck has otherwise run fine.
Third Problem:
Every once in a while the truck will hiccup while it's up to speed. It only seems to do it at highway speeds, typically between 55-70, and the hiccup typically only occurs once.
The first time I distinctly remember it happening was right after I had replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor (approximately 5-6 weeks ago).
While digging around online I found one other guy say his truck started doing the same thing after replacing the CMP in his F250 with the same little plastic gray one I used. So that problem might be caused by that part.
My Thoughts:
It seems like the run-away favorite for fixing problem one is to replace the GPCM. I've dug through a couple hours of forums this afternoon/evening, and it looks to me like the GPCM is the culprit the vast majority of the time when code P0683 comes up.
I'm thinking problem 2 might be an ICP issue. I can't find any previous forums anywhere that describe the exact issue I'm having - or really anything very close. Maybe it's out there, but I couldn't find it. So I'm really grasping at straws.
Problem 3 could either be related to the ICP (if problem 2 is an ICP problem) or it could be due to the new CMP I installed (the cheap gray plastic one from Autozone). It's possible the hiccup has been around longer than I think. Half the time when it happens (or does it?) I can't decide if it was a hiccup or a bump on the road I didn't see. I am sure it's happening at times, but there are other times I'm not sure if it was a hiccup or a bump I just didn't see. So I think it's possible it's been going on longer than I realize, and I noticed it that first time because I had JUST been under the hood and pretty finely attuned to how the truck was running as a result.
I'm about to hitch my 35' camper to this truck and haul it a few hours and I'm not feeling real confident right now. Problem 1 hit today, problem 2 is more prevalent than every right now, and problem 3 has been hiccupping for 5 or 6 weeks. I'd like to get at least problems 1 and 3 sorted out before hauling 8,000 lbs if possible.
This started about 6 weeks ago. While sitting at a stop light the motor cut out. After some research I replaced the cps. Truck ran fine for about 3 weeks, then shut down again while pulling into the driveway of a store. Replaced the cps again (this time with a ford one). Ran fine for another 3 weeks, then shut down again on the freeway. No CEL on any occasion.
It's just like someone turned the key off. No rough idling at all. No smoke during starting or driving. When it shuts down, it will not start again for 20-30 minutes, no matter how many time you crank it. It will just turn over, no sputter. When it fires up again there is no air in the lines either, it runs like nothing happened.
I'm now thinking it might be a ipr issue...is there a way I can check myself or does it need to go to the mechanic? Or is it something completely different? This is my mother in laws daily driver, 178k. She does not drive on the freeway, 80% of the mileage is city driving. What could be going on?
My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
Here's the situation - 1999 F350 with the 7.3 PSD, crew cab, auto, 4X4.
The truck runs fine in good weather, but if it's raining or snowing, it will suddenly die - and by that I mean lose all power as though you turned off the key. There's no warning. It lasts for a period of time, and then the truck will restart - most of the time.
It's seems like it should be a pretty simple/obvious electrical problem, but I've had the truck in to two of the best diesel shops in town, and neither has been able to locate the problem, in spite of countless hours and some pretty big bills being racked up.
Here's the story. Truck has showed no signs of rough running. Wife drives truck around town. Truck up to temperature and doing fine on a 90 degree day. Stops at red light. Makes left turn engine light comes on truck seems to be running on 4 cylinders. Pulls over light goes off engine idles perfect. Pulls back on road light on no power. Gets truck to a local friends house lets it sit til I get off work.
I check for codes get p1316. Drive truck toward my house no problems for 4-5 miles then does the above with me. Limp it home. I know it is pointing at a wire problem to injectors and or IDM. Did a buzz test passed fine. Plan on pulling valve covers and looking for the usuall things. Any thing I am missing? What will a kOEO test tell me? Should I run one? How common is IDM to go out? One last thing just put a rebuilt transmission in it 3 days ago may be unrelated it seems to be doing fine.
2003 f-350 cc 7.3.
Had the GPCM off for the recent injector reseal job. Kid called me after school let out that it started like dog doo, has this code.
I am guessing something got chaffed or broke between the PCM and the controller.....I don't want to just throw a new controller at it.
How to test this? I am guessing there is a wire from the PCM to the controller that is not making the connection.
I noticed the code the other day, thought it was related to all the cranking perhaps. Reseated the two plugs, no joy.
Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
Ok, so my 2002 f250 died on me last Tuesday out of the blue, pulled it home and found fuse 23 I think ECU power was blown. I removed my Hydra, and put a new fuse in it and all seemed well, then Friday evening on my way to dinner was driving along and truck shuts off like someone turned the key off. I replace the Crank sensor, even though I had put a new one in after the first time it died, which was last Tuesday, still would not start.
Pulled it home, went out Saturday morning to look at it and hit the key and it fired right off. At this point I don't really know where to look, I wiggled every wire I could find while it was running Saturday and no change, but it does seem to have a miss in it while it is idling...... I am not sure where to start looking....
I finally got my 02 F350 running again after replacing the Fried PCM, but during some additional shop prep work, I discovered that the engine dies when you use the horn button, it will start right up afterwards so no permanent damage, but, Where to start? I have Forscan and a cable so I can get into the PCM but I need to know where to look or what PIDS I should be watching during troubleshooting.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 excursion 7.3L. It has started dying lately after I let off of the pedal and the vehicle slows down and the engine is supposed to go to idle but sometimes it dies. It will start back up right away. It has begun to start a little rougher especially after it dies. I have replace the CPS and I got new batteries.
View 14 RepliesAbout 4-5 weeks ago my 2002 F-250 7.3 just died with no warning after coming off the highway and since then it hesitates/dies when hitting a bump or while applying pedal with the A/C on. The code that keeps popping up is the P0344 "CPS" and the code for back pressure sensor... I have replaced the CPS twice "making sure the 1st one was not bad", the back pressure sensor and the tube the goes the manifold, and fuel filter and still having problems... I didn't know if there could be a fuel pump issue or something else?
View 14 RepliesLike the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
I am fairly new to powerstrokes, but have a general understanding how the 7.3l operates, and how the fuel system works.
The problem i am experiencing is a crank, no start. The truck has been great for the year and a half that i have owned it. Always cranked great and never any starting or running issues. One day upon cranking, i started the motor; it started normal running good for a minute until the motor suddenly started shuttering and then the motor shut off, happened rather quickly. The truck started up immediately after that and died....repeating the shutter until dead. Now the truck will not start.
Specs on truck:
2002 7.3l
230,000 miles
Manual transmission
Here's what i have replaced so far:
New parts include:
IPR (motorcraft)
ICP (motorcraft)
EBPV (napa)
CPS (napa)
IDM (reman)
Here are some of the diagnostic values i have collected during cranking: (FYI: i am a little confused on what the values mean and what they should be in order for the motor to start):
ICP: 2218 psi
ICP duty cycle: 41%
EBP: 265 kpa
battery voltage: 12.0
Rpm: 355
Things i have checked so far:
Oil is new and level is good.
WTS light cycles as normal.
Fuel bowl is full and over flows with cap off while cranking.
Fuel tank is above half.
Glow plug relay is good.
I was throwing a code for the PCM, but i removed the bully dog tuner and the code has since cleared.
HPOP oil is an inch below full.
I made a gauge set and dead headed HPOP yielding 1500psi.
Upon cranking i am seeing some smoke, i guess, but its kind of hard to tell from the drivers seat.
This is where i am at so far. I don't have a way to buzz test the injectors or tell if they are leaking past the orings. I have the valve covers removed, but i have been putting off pulling the injectors to replace the orings.
Early 99' model I picked up. Blew the oil cooler and had lot of pressure in the Degas bottle, so did head job and oil cooler and now I'm Still getting a P0264. Unplug #8 injector truck almost dies, plug it up and she smooths out...
View 7 RepliesMy 02 6.8 v10 4x4 4.30 X has a big problem. I was driving on sand and all of the sudden it stopped and dies. Had no trans fluid and a dead battery. After paying $450 to get it off the beach i filled the trans fluid and got a jump and it runs. When put in gear wether in 4WD or not it does NOT move. Only when put in neutral and pulled ... red dot is pavement, blue is where i got to, star is where i broke down on the way out...smh
View 7 RepliesSo I'm on my way out of town, when the truck just doesn't feel right. I proceed to make a u turn and pull off the high way. During the course of the u turn the truck shuts off. I pop the hood and notice the oil is everywhere from the fuel bowl back. Oil is also dripping off the passenger frame rail.
There is also a nice size puddle of oil pooled under the truck. I believe that I blew the high pressure oil line that feeds the injectors. I had to get towed back home. If it is the high pressure hose, how much does the stealership normally charge?
My wife returned home and stated that my excursion stopped running twice while she was driving it. She said both times were as she was letting off the throttle coming downhill an off ramp. Both times it fired right up and drove away fine.
I pulled the codes using torque app and it showed a p1211. Unfortunately I had just screwed up my gauge settings so I really didn't have any gauges set up so I couldn't use it. (It's for the 6.0 anyway).
After some Internet searching I am guessing it's an issue with the icp or ipr. How do I tell which one to replace? Truck does have a dp tuner normally set to 80 economy tune.
I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues. I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.