I am in the process of replacing the complete front end on my 02 CC 4x4. Im replacing the hubs the lockers all seals and spindle axles. complete brakes with power stop and stainless brake lines ......I am going to switch back to the original automatic lockers. I am curious if has a simplified one line for the vacuum routing from the pump to the hubs?
View 7 RepliesI am thinking on installing a shutoff in the vacuum line that supplies the hubs so I can use 4LO for backing uphill with a trailer without having the hubs engage. Its either that or a switch to disable the PVH solenoid.
View 12 RepliesMy vacuum pump I noticed is running constantly and also my vents are stuck on defrost.
I narrowed it down by taking off the lines going from the tank to the 4x4 solenoid and the tank to the HVAC line. If I plug both lines I get pressure to both but it still won't shut the pump off. Why won't the pump shut off? Leaky tank?
If I plug the red line back into the solenoid I cannot get pressure to come out of the HVAC line. (Switch in cab set in 2wd)
I can make the pump shut off by plugging the main inlet to the pump.
I took the tank out and can't find any cracks or leaks. Could something inside the tank be broke?
Also why can't I get pressure when the red line is plugged into the selinoid?
I can't figure it out. Almost seems like the 4x4 solenoid and the tank are both the problem.
I think my pcm has gone bad. My wait to start light won't come on an when I turn my key on I can't hear my fuel pump cut on anymore. My vacuum pump is also making a loud noise.
View 10 RepliesMy 16 year old F250 4X4 diesel has developed a problem with no backup lights working, and the vacuum pump is not getting power. The fuse (#28) checks out OK, and I'm told to check for a broken wire on or near the backup switch. I don't know where to locate the backup switch. I have the huge Ford Service manuals, but they are written with the perspective that you should already know where the switches are. Where to find the switch?
View 4 RepliesWhen I park over night while in 4x4, the next morning my hubs are disengaged and I have to manually lock them. There is an apparent slow/slight leak in the vacuum system. What would be the usual suspect, so I can start at that point?
View 3 RepliesThere was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
View 9 RepliesI just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
I am installing a fuel pressure gauge into my 02 7.3 I went to the thread the sensor into the plug hole on the fuel filter housing and it wasn't threaded, turns out the sensor thread is slightly smaller and a different thread ... The directions say to install it into the filter housing or the lift pump ... So I'm assuming I have to go the lift pump direction of installing it but where the lift pump is or how to install the sensor into it while not throwing a code or causin problems ... A step by step and even pictures.
View 14 RepliesWarn Premiums, installed them and now the 4x4 is engaging, but still have a grinding issue. When the hubs are locked and the switch is in 2 wheel drive, the frond end is grinding, if I switch it to 4 hi, the grinding goes away.
View 3 RepliesI have my vacuum system back up and working and using my vacuum pump I determined my lines are all good. They hold a vacuum fine, but my ESOF isn't engaging my hubs. I guess that leaves either the selector on the dash or the seal at the hubs.
If it is the selector, I should just be able to just disconnect the vacuum line at the selector and use my pump to engage my hubs. How much it is supposed to take to activate the hubs?
To those of you that have replaced your unit bearing hubs on your 4 x 4's; are they giving comparable service to the OEM units? I'm replacing ball-joints right now and it would sure be easy to slap on some new hubs. The only issue is I have 130k on the originals and have been lubing them through the ABS port for the last 20k miles - the hubs seem to be in good condition. I've noticed some posters stating that since lubing an already good hub, that they are now getting a lot more than the standard 150k out of them. I also worry about replacing perfectly good US bearing hubs with most likely a Chinese bearing hub (Timken or not!).
View 10 RepliesAs my truck stands it has OEM automatic locking hubs with a selector for auto or lock. So, why would some one buy manual locking hubs and cap off the ESOF vacuum line when the OEM ones perform the same function by being auto or locked?
I hope this makes sense because if I felt I wanted to go to manual style locking hubs, I think I could simply cap off the vacuum line and then switch the hub to lock if I wanted 4x4 because the electric switch inside the truck is actually what engages the transfer case and puts the truck into 4x4.
Is this thinking/theory correct or am I missing something here?
I was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
I know this is going to sounds lame, my wife can't turn them, they have cover over it that has to be unscrewed to get at 'em. It would be nice to shift in and out "on the fly" as weather condition change.
Is it a difficult change?
My transfer case engages the front drive shaft spins but even when I manually lock my hubs neither of my tires will pull! I was thinking either the hubs are shot but I was told it could be the 4wd locking solenoid??
View 1 RepliesTime to replace the aging vacuum lines to the 4wd and probably anywhere I can find the old rubber stuff.
What is the size of the lines and are they mostly the same?
I'd like to order a roll so I can make ones like the front hubs longer, stuff like that.
Checked all fuses in fuse box, any other fuses or relays. The pump works when I jump it with a 12volt battery, so I know its good!
View 7 RepliesIn the past, I've had the common issues of vacuum leaks causing issues as evident from the defrost/ac and then finding busted vacuum lines. Changed out and everything fine for a few years. Now, i dont have 4wd but i dont have the tell tale vacuum leak signs. Also, even if i manually engage the hubs, still no 4wd.
I try to listen for the transfer case to engage when i switch from 2wd to 4wd, I think I hear it engaging, but to be honest the 7.3 makes so much racket Im not positive that Im hearing it, or at least not hearing it the way I "think" that i heard it in the past. I seem to recall a distinctive clunk when engaging, now its barely audible if at all. Now when I switch to 4-Low, there is the distinctive sound, and it does goes into low drive, just that its only 2wd-low, still no front wheel action.
I have never had any issues before other than the vacuum leaks, have never had reason to dig into the transfer case for any reason. The only time it has ever been touched was last summer when i had the BTS installed and all they did was remove and replace.
Do I finally need to either rebuild or replace my hubs? Is it possible not to have 4wd even with hubs manually engaged? Or is there an issue with the t-case? Or is there something else going on? I have access to a lift to attempt "driving" while all wheels off the ground, its just not mine and its a tight fit and a pain to get my truck on it.
Haven't found any other useful info on this, but local dealer says that's where my truck is leaking oil from, and since it's considered brakes not powertrain the repair won't be covered under warranty ...
Backstory goes : dropped my truck off at local dealer Thursday to repair an oil leak from near front main seal area of the engine discovered while inspecting to initiate a bumper-to-bumper warranty through Ford ESP- their platinum warranty. I figured with all the electronic widgets and non-powertrain stuffs on this beast I wouldn't mind paying for 3yrs/36k miles of trouble-free motoring, y'know?
Apparently it's the O-ring on the brake vacuum pump that's allowing engine oil to leak. I can't even find this thing, just looking for some further explanation. I'm keeping an open mind so far, I don't suspect the dealer's just trying to get one over on me, just trying to be good and educated before I go plunk down for the repair.
How to diagnose a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak diagnostic tool.
My ESOF won't engage, AC/heat blowers default to defrost - classic symptoms. And while we can leave without AC/heat, we really need the ability to engage 4x4 low, especially as we get higher into the Andes and the roads become rough.