Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Speedometer And ABS Light Came On?
Jun 17, 2015
A few weeks ago i lost the speedometer and the abs light came on. 6 hours later when i got home I tried diagnosing it, but everything worked. Yesterday, the same thing. No speedo or odometer, abs light is on, and the OD off light is flashing. But the trans still works fine, going through all 5 gears and torque converter lockup. plus, pushing tho OD button turn OD off, hit it again and OD engages again. (the truck has a 5 speed allison trans in it) i put the scanner on it and got No response from module for the ABS module, the GEM/central timer, and Hybrid electronic cluster. There are no trouble codes, but it did show P0500 vehicle speed sensor A this afternoon on the way home, the speedometer and odometer came on and worked for .4 miles, then went out again. Where I should start?
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This morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine. Nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night. Will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
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2002 e350 7.3 diesel transmission... At 7 miles the speedo began bouncing and truck drops into second. Parked it 30 minutes, stated up no problem until 8 miles and the it started again. Have checked most of the electrical, changed speed sensor and transmission position sensor. Only error code 2-3 rd gear mismatch.
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I drove the truck to work. It was fine. I start it up at quitting time and let it idle for a minute. When I pulled out of the parking lot and the od light started blinking. After about 8 miles I stopped at a red light. When the light turn green and I drove off the speedometer is working again. The od light flashed for another mile or 2 then stopped.
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Speedometer not working and O/D light blinks, I have a 450 and a 250, 99 and 2000. On 450 this is an intermiting problem. Stop truck turn ignition off, restart and it all works now. Just started on my 250 and stopping and turning ignition off cures the problems for a few seconds, after i get moving the speedometer doesnt work and then light starts blinking again O/D light. Where do I need to start?
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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Using the hypertech speedometer calibration tool on trucks?
I'm running 37s and need to calibrate it. But I don't want to buy a performance chip with the calibration tool?
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I have a 2002 7.3 4x4 truck. The 4x4 will not engage, the lights on the dash don't even light up. I took it to the ford dealer and they said the fuse box and gem module. (800.00 to fix). They said the windshield leaked and shorted then out, so I needed to be replaced? I have replaced the windshield and fixed the leak, my question is the fuse box and gem a plug and play and do different years work?
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so got to work today, truck engine light comes on all foward motion stops. Just coasts and idles along. I have 280k on the orig stock trans. I also have dp tuner and did the valve body upgrade along with adding the 6.0 cooler hoping to extend the life of the trans. Reverse works. So i asume I am needinf a new trans. My options are Ford HDr4100 orig 4100, Or BTS built trans. I also pull a toy hauler as well. My question is If I order the BTS can I have a my local shop install it or does it need to be programmed at the dealer. If I get the HD from ford installed will I have to remove the dp tuner chip to get it programmed and also will i need another new valve body replacement.
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I have a 02 f250 4x4 7.3l.... I drove it all weekend and no problems. It sat till yesterday I got in it to go to church. It started up and had a little miss was around 60 f. Then the od light started flashing. Not in any code just constant flash. I was parked down in my drive way. It idled fine but acted like it wouldn't take fuel. So looked around and found the hose on the map sensor was broke.
So today I fixed the hose. Checked the oil level and battery connections. Still running weird and flashing od light. I got under the hood and wiggled plugs I unplugged the ice. It revved up then back down and started running smoothly. Got in it and it backed out of the drive way. It ran and drove fine. What I need to know is why??? The ice is a new one from Ford.
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Door ajar light stays on. Lights were staying on until they timed off but after two days they have returned to normal operation. Where the switch is located on the door frame, I can't seem to find it. 2002 ex psd.
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Bit of a confusing one as of late. Doesn't happen every time I drive, maybe 50% of the time. When I start the truck up, torque pro reads voltage at 13.9-14.1 consistent. After 30 minutes it usually drops to around 13.7/13.8. Sometimes, battery light comes on, voltage doesn't drop. I can drive the truck, park it, turn it off, restart, no side effects.
I notice if I stop, turn off the truck, and restart it, torq pro will begin to read a voltage of 12.8.13.0. Sometimes it won't budge for an hour, sometimes it climbs right back up to 13.8, sometimes the battery light goes off, sometimes it stays on.
Alternator was replaced a month ago, both batteries replaced a week ago, all terminals cleaned and secured at the time of replacement. Truck behaves perfectly normal, I'm almost at the point of putting a piece of tape over the light and ignoring it, but was curious before I go that route.
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My speedometer was intermittent for a while, stalling, then moving, but never above the actual speed. Now I turn it on, but as soon as I move, it travels up to 38mph then stays there until I turn off the engine, then it hangs for 4/5 seconds, then drops to zero.
I replaced the VSS in the rear diff, and the one on the tranny. I checked all fuses. There are no other dummy lights or indications. Bad ground? I'm hoping I don't need a new gauge cluster.
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Just bought a 2002 F-250 4x4 Off-Road Crew Cab 7.3L and the airbag light is staying on. I have found out after the fact that the truck has been previously involved in a front end collision. The damage was to the passenger side front. I turn the ignition on, the airbag light will come on solid (just like all the rest, with the exception of the 4x4 and 4x4 low) then go out. Then it flashes slowly 2x then 5x, then goes out for a bit then repeats a few times before staying on. This tells me I am getting a code of 25. I have searched with no luck to narrow this issue down. Everything mechanically works, cruise, horn, etc. The only thing I can find wrong is when I engage the 4-wheel drive (floor shifter) the indicator lights do not illuminate in the instrument cluster. Neither the 4x4 nor the 4x4 low. I am unfamiliar with this truck, so I don't know where to began searching. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I have children in the truck quite often, so I would like to remedy this very quickly.
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I have a 2002 f250 screw. my door ajar light is lit up on the dash. I have tried the wd40 trick, pulled the sensors and bench tested them. What are the codes the instrument cluster test has for each door?
What I am thinking is, if we get a list posted it would be much easier to diagnose the door sensors for others. there should be a open/closed bit for each door. possibly a code for all doors open too. I am curious if there is a code for bad communication on the VSM.
From what I have read, correctly working the doors should read 00 when they are closed. drivers front open=80, pass front open=40 ... My door code does not change no matter what combination of door open/close I use.
Truck is 2002 f250 crew cab ...
My code is C0 ...
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I own the above described vehicle; I'm at about 196k and I'm the original owner. It's a quad cab, 2002 7.3L with power everything. I believe it's the XLT package (it's not in front of me... I'm at work. CONFIRMED... XLT package).
Currently, it's the workhorse and back-up for the family, not my primary driver - luckily. I've had failure if the automatic door lock on the rear pass. door, and a sticky lock on the rear driver's side lock - they've both been in this state for at least the last four years, no problems beyond the hassle of manual manipulation of the door lock from the inside - otherwise no electrical issues really to speak of.
Three weeks ago, we went to the snow. I rarely use the 4x4, but found that I had to use it that day to get out of some mud - it worked fine, no issues. In addition, I also used the cruise control... something I do rarely, but have not had any issue with it either.
In exiting the area some hours later at the end of our day, I noted two things... the "door ajar" dash light was illuminated and did not shut off through the drive home, and the dome light remained on until the battery saver shutdown shut it down... quite some time (where normally a key in the column turned past the insertion would shut it off).
When I drove home I used the cruise control, as mentioned, and it worked fine.
In exiting the vehicle while at home, as soon as the door was opened the horn started blaring panic alarm style - honk, honk, honk, honk... - and when the batteries are attached, there is nothing that stops the honking, except the battery saver timeout. BTW... no key in the ignition.
I don't use the FOBs... the batteries were dead anyhow (and I moved the FOBs out of range of the vehicle).
Attempted fixes:
- Lubing the lock/WD-40, then shutting/opening the doors (no luck/no change).
- Pulling door panels, removing locking mechanism, removing door ajar switches (I don't know what they're called), manually manipulating the piston AND checking each with a multimeter. (NOTE: One "seemed" not to work properly, so I purchased one from dealer and placed it back... still, no luck resolving the issues overall).
-Checked the wiring looms supplying all four doors - no broken wires noted.
- Replaced the two vehicle batteries.
I'm at a loss and I'm hitting up this forum before I move forward...
I've read that there are issues with the VSM for this year's model, but I'm hesitant to purchase the module without further feedback from a tech. I've read some general posts about alarm systems (doesn't apply to me) and horn issues (but those were horn constantly blaring... not the intermittent horn blasts of a "panic alarm sounding."
I've heard that the GEM and clockspring could be an issue, but I have to look more closely at the associated problems (like recheck to see if the cruise works... door windows go up/down like some threads have mentioned...). I have also read that the door ajar sensor switches attached to the automatic locks could be culprit, as they may "work" when pulled out, but not work when they're installed in the vehicle.
Ultimately, what the cause to the panic horn beeping, dome light and door ajar instrument indicator being on.
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2002 F350 7.3 PSD. 192k miles.
From my understanding, a CEL is supposed to illuminate each time you turn the ignition ON as part of normal startup procedure.
I figured the previous owner must have pulled out the bulb to hide the fact that the truck had a few "issues" before selling it, so today I pulled out the gauge cluster and it looked as if the CEL bulb was a tiny LED soldered directly into the gauge cluster itself. There were a few serviceable/removable bulbs for things like turn signal indicators, high-beam etc... but the CEL did not have a serviceable/removable bulb.
I've been driving this truck and working through it's "issues" and fixing things as I go, but it keeps throwing codes without the CEL illuminating. What's going on here?
I thought the check-engine-light was supposed to illuminate each time the ignition was turned on, and that it would come on each and every time the vehicle registered a fault code in the ECU/PCM.
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this morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine.
nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night.
will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
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I have a 2002 7.3L Screw 4x4. Will a 03/04 6.0L instrument cluster work in this truck? The 2 clusters appear identical. I put the 6.0 cluster in and the trans temp, and coolant temp gauge will not work. All the gauges sweep when it is powered on, but the coolant and trans temp lay flat, and the check gauge light is on. All other gauges and functions work. When I put my other cluster in, all gauges work fine. Is there a difference in the VSM, PCM, or the SCP communication?
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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