Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Radio Won't Turn On
Jul 17, 2017
The short story is I sent my chip to dp tuner last week while on vacation to have Jody update my programs. The ecu was out of the truck for about a week. I reinstalled everything today. Everything works fine except my radio won't turn on. Clock only comes on when headlights are on. Checked all the fuses all good except #32 which is a 5a. Manual says it's the radio start fuse. Fuse is fine not blown out, new one installed still no power on either side of the fuse. Where should I look now. 2002 super duty
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I now have a 2002, 7.3, 250, 4x4 and love it. Everything but the milege. All in all it's a great ride. I have one little problem that's driven me nuts.
The power windows and the radio go out occasionally. Both at the same time. They come back on...... sometimes. Sometimes it takes a day or two. I've checked the fuses and then saw that there is a breaker in the 601 location in the fuse box that's probably causing the problem.
But I thought that it was supposed to shut off to protect that circuit when there is a short somewhere. I don't know where to go or how to locate the short if in fact this is my problem.
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I have a 02 PSD, and sometimes after I start it up my radio and power windows do not work. I have a red "security" light on my Kenwood radio that turns on when the truck is off. That light keeps flashing after I turned on the truck so I know it's still getting power, but for some reason it thinks the truck is off, and the windows don't go down. Other days it works perfectly fine, sometimes the radio and windows will stop working after driving normal.
At first it was a routine where I knew they'd start working shortly. But today was the last straw, I drove into work with no radio and windows not rolling down for 30 miles. Of course after I park, I turn off the truck, turn it back on and everything comes on like nothing ever happened. What can be causing this, I have checked all the wiring, no kinks, cuts, nothing. I remember reading something about a relay that can cause this but can't find that info.
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Does Delayed Accessory Relay 306 control radio on an 02 F-350?
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On my 2003 powersteering the windows and radio will just quit working. Then they will come on again. Maybe in and hour or a day or a week. Where do I sart.
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My buddy is selling his truck in a couple days and was taking out speakers, afe intake, and satelite radio. I go to start the truck and i have no power to windows, no power to radio and no domelight when i switch it on and off. Dont know what i did but none of this works and everything else does.
I checked all fused all were good. I searched the forum for a solution and they said something about the automatic delay relay and i bought a new one and nothing still. I am not sure what else to do i checked with voltmeter if i had anypower to the window or radio and nothing. But the radios clock works and when i turn on the light it illuminates but doesnt turn on.
The truck is a 2002 7.3L Crewcab. f350
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My dumb self cut my factory harness to install a radio and after hooking up said radio (which I know how to do) it popped a fuse. So to avoid any trouble I need to put another harness in but again with my stupidity I cut the wires too short. finding the correct harness
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Drove it last night around 9pm. Parked it and went to drive it again this morning around 7:30. No cold weather here or rain. Here is what I know: When I turn the key I hear a click (not a repeating click) but the engine doesn't turn over. Batteries have 12.5 volts. I put my trickle charger on them and had full charge after about 3 or 4 minutes. When I turn the key the headlights do not go dim. I put a screw driver across the solenoid on the passenger side fender and got a strong arc. When I do that, I can also hear another click that sounds like its coming from the engine. I tapped the starter a few times with a hammer, but it still wont turn over. I'm guessing bad starter.
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Trying to track down an issue (annoyance) I'm having with my 02 7.3 4x4 excursion. When I get in the truck and turn the key (after waiting for glow plugs) the starter doesn't actually turn over for 1-3 seconds and sometimes up to 5. When the truck does turn over everything works perfect it's just an annoying delay.
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I have a 2002 7.3L Screw 4x4. Will a 03/04 6.0L instrument cluster work in this truck? The 2 clusters appear identical. I put the 6.0 cluster in and the trans temp, and coolant temp gauge will not work. All the gauges sweep when it is powered on, but the coolant and trans temp lay flat, and the check gauge light is on. All other gauges and functions work. When I put my other cluster in, all gauges work fine. Is there a difference in the VSM, PCM, or the SCP communication?
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My power steering is only working when i turn it to the left. When I turn it to the right i have to get a 1/4 of a turn in until the power steering takes over. So i get under my truck to discover what seems to be a piece of my tranny missing. How screwed am I ???
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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I have a 02 f350 7.3 with 296,000k its been running ruff lately with a serious loss in power. The truck sounds good at idle starts up fine but when im on the throttle under load it almost crackles and sometimes bucks. I thought its was injectors replaced them all with stock ford remains but didn't fix the problem. I have AE and it passes a buzz test but i did a KOER test today and it started what seemed like a misfire during the test my ICP went to 2400-2500 and my IPR was at 38%. I have already put a new hpop in a couple month back along with new hpop lines do to a burst, ICP sensor, and i rebuilt the IPR valve. Not sure if this is a problem with fuel or the hpop I have also cleaned the screens in the tank and replaced the fuel pump which were pretty bad....
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New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
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There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3, 159k on it. I bought it in March, ran AWESOME up till now. I was driving to work last week, check engine light came on, truck lost power and started idling rough. I have a buddy who works for a Ford dealer as a diesel mechanic, he came over with his scanner and laptop. #2,#4,#8 cylinders kept coming up saying possible problems are injectors, harness, rings.. He also did an electrical check, that all checked out. He told me to get injectors, so I got 4 injectors (yes I got the correct #8 injector), valve cover gasket, injector harness and 4 glow plugs.
The parts came last Friday, we did the job and it ran great. Drove it Friday night, Saturday, Sunday morning, no issues. Sunday afternoon we were on our way to a birthday party, truck started doing the exact same thing... Check engine light, rough idle, loss of power. After I got home from the party, my buddy came back over, put it on the scanner again, getting the same codes again. Deleted the codes, ran the tests again, same codes, deleted the codes, rant the tests again, same codes.
He said he is going to come by tomorrow with the box to check each individual cylinder.
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Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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