Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Loud Bang And Lost Power In The Transmission
Aug 11, 2016
Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
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Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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I have a 02 power stroke 7.3, driving down the road the other day is started smoking a grayish white smoke pretty good. i let off the throttle and it had a real loud knock along with the smoke. oil pressure was good. i stuck it in neutral and revved it up kept smoking but the knock would go away at higher rpm. then all at once it would stop and run fine. then today it started doing it and wont stop now at all.
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So on my way home today I lost all power, the engine shut of and i coasted to side of the road. Went to try and start, nothing. When key is in the crank position the gauges were jumping all over the place, also accompanied by a lot of clicking from behind the dash. Nothing happened when tried to crank. No power to windows or even emergency flashers.
So i get it towed home, and of course it turns over. But this only lasts about ten seconds, then dies. I could do that a few times and then back to no power at all. Even at times with the keys out of ignition it will still click and make a lot of noise.
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I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
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My 99 E350 with 7.3 power stroke quickly lost power while on the highway today, bogged down and died. I couldn't get it restarted so had to have it towed home. I tried getting it started at home but it just pumps out white smoke out the exhaust. I got it to fire and run for a minute on a mixture of starting fluid and wd40 but wont stay running. Some background info, I checked oil and it was low but still registered at very tip of dipstick so I topped off oil level and still no start unless I give it a mixture of starting fluid and wd40. Batteries are good and cranking fast. Truck has 355,000 miles but very little blow by and prior to this had plenty of power and didn't have to use the block heater to start it thru the winter even when the temps dropped down to 12 degrees in January.
One thing I did have an issue with this past year was an intermittent cutting out while driving where the engine would instantly shut off but as soon as I tapped accelerator pedal it would start running again like nothing happened, wouldn't even last two seconds and it was running again just like shutting off the key and turning it back on and when it would do that the "Wait to start" light would come on and gauges would drop like key was off but again it all went back normal as soon as I hit a bump or tapped the accelerator pedal and it never lasted more than a second or two and never had to pull over, just tap the pedal or hit a bump and engine would kick in and run fine so not sure if that's related to whats going on now or not.
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I lost a hose in the driver side front wheel well this morning while pulling RV to a campground. By the time I got there and got the RV disconnected, I lost all power steering. I reconnected the hose using a zip tie and have a friend bringing me fluid to refill reservoir.
Is my pump toast now? Can I refill the reservoir and prime the lines and be good to go?
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While pulling onto the highway and pulling pretty hard lost engine power all boost then engine truned off. Top of engine is covered in oil..... What happened?
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I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
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As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
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Driving home from movies tonight, I lost power steering and power brakes and the pump started growling. Looked in the reservoir and it was all foamed up. Within the last 20k mi I have flushed the system and refilled with power steering fluid. No apparent leaks at this time. And happened like someone flipped a switch. Fine one turn, nothing the next. What are the chances this is a fluid issue and not a mechanical one? Start with flushing system and adding Mercon V? Or is it likely pump is damaged?
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38k and 15 months old. Runs fine except...
Can be in cruise or not, tow/haul or not, but need to be pulling a decent hill with 7k+ trailer. Running level with air bags. Regardless of speed, cruising at 50, 58, or 65, beginning incline and turbo boost builds normally to maintain speed to the point when it needs to downshift. BAM!!, not just a clunk, 90% of the time- scares the hell out of me. I can make it do it on an incline empty, but it it difficult. If because initial speed is 50ish, a second downshift to 4th may be needed. A bang only 50% of the time.
No codes.
Regardless of the degree incline, (toughest in the NC/KY areas is 6-7% grade, can avoid harsh shift by backing off on throttle and manually downshifting to 5th or 4th, depending upon speed.
Can "make" it do it on level terrain with 7k trailer if I slowly back off throttle and slow from 65 to 50 or so and punch it, but not too hard. Too hard and it goes to 4th, usually with just a modest clunk. Just right and I get 5th with a loud, and I mean loud BAM. Even the tech was impressed.
Afraid to hook up my 17k 5er and take off for the next 3 months, which is the reason I bought the truck to replace my 11...
Carrier bearing has grease coming out of it (400k on various duallies and never seen this), but dealer says not an issue.
Ford told dealer that it had no idea, and advised tech to do a lot of pin point electrical testing and everything checks out. Next stop is the inner workings of transmission.
I have been without it and work for 3 days because of backlog. Running two day load tomorrow, then back in for tranny work.
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I had a leak coming from the top of the transmission. The antifreeze appears to be getting into the transmission because when I pull the stick it's a chocolate/white fluid and both the antifreeze and the transmission fluid are new. So, I am talking to two transmission places, trying to decide which one to go with and what to ask them to install because it seems I have different choices depending on what I want the truck to do. I will be using it to haul dirt and farm items, pull a 20 ft cargo hauler, maybe a rv some day.
The transmission guys are throwing all kinds of lingo out there I don't understand. and the price is anywhere from 2500 to 5000 for the tranny. Also they tell me what is included and what is to be changed out but I don't know if it's "everything". One guy said that the "John Woods" brand of tranny is what I want. Also I think my stock engine is fine. A cylinder contribution test shows only one with an issue and it seems to rev fine. The glow plugs need to be replaced I think. Where I'm getting here is if later I have to replace/rebuild the engine should I get a bigger tranny now?
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2002 F 350 7.3 4x4
Aftermarket gauge will climb to 250 after around town driving of an hour or so or multiple trips within the hour. Not towing. 160,000 miles on odometer. Changed trans fluid at 40,000 mile intervals. Most recently about 1500 miles ago. Most recent change using Mark K's method. Was getting fluid from rear port when I changed fluid. Blew out oil cooler and there did not seem to be a blockage as flow was sufficient.
Still overheating according to autometer trans gauge in test port. No codes retrieved using auto-ingenuity also O/ D light is not flashing. Would like to run torque converter slip test using AE according to wooden things method but TC slip desired and transmission gear ratio is not available under that name in live data meter. AE just updated to most recent version.
I purchased a new tranny oil bypass and will install soon. Also purchased a new 6.0 cooler to replace stocker but am hesitant to install if tranny is failing because I am concerned that the new cooler will just get some blockage from a potentially failing transmission and I will be buying a new cooler along with a BTS rebuild.
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My transmission on my 2002 7.3 4x4 is pouring fluid from somewhere above the rear of the pan. I thought it was the pan at first. I pulled it off and replaced the filter. After adding fluid while it was running for 4 or 5 minutes it started pouring again. It's not the pan. It's coming from above the pan somewhere. It won't leak unless it's running. Is there a place it can leak on top??
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So I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.
I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
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so got to work today, truck engine light comes on all foward motion stops. Just coasts and idles along. I have 280k on the orig stock trans. I also have dp tuner and did the valve body upgrade along with adding the 6.0 cooler hoping to extend the life of the trans. Reverse works. So i asume I am needinf a new trans. My options are Ford HDr4100 orig 4100, Or BTS built trans. I also pull a toy hauler as well. My question is If I order the BTS can I have a my local shop install it or does it need to be programmed at the dealer. If I get the HD from ford installed will I have to remove the dp tuner chip to get it programmed and also will i need another new valve body replacement.
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I have a 02 f350 4x4 6 SPD one of my transmission lines has went bad is there anywhere that sales them.
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I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
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