Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Hesitates / Dies Whilst Hitting Bump / A/C On?
Jun 4, 2016
About 4-5 weeks ago my 2002 F-250 7.3 just died with no warning after coming off the highway and since then it hesitates/dies when hitting a bump or while applying pedal with the A/C on. The code that keeps popping up is the P0344 "CPS" and the code for back pressure sensor... I have replaced the CPS twice "making sure the 1st one was not bad", the back pressure sensor and the tube the goes the manifold, and fuel filter and still having problems... I didn't know if there could be a fuel pump issue or something else?
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What would cause me to lose accelerator pedal function after hitting a bump? The engine remains on, the CEL comes on and after a few seconds or shifting into neutral and back into drive I regain the accelerator again and the CEL goes out
The truck shows no codes. It is if some connection makes/breaks intermittently when I hit a rough pavement. Also, she sometimes won't shift in reverse. Could it be related?
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I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
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Ok, so my 2002 f250 died on me last Tuesday out of the blue, pulled it home and found fuse 23 I think ECU power was blown. I removed my Hydra, and put a new fuse in it and all seemed well, then Friday evening on my way to dinner was driving along and truck shuts off like someone turned the key off. I replace the Crank sensor, even though I had put a new one in after the first time it died, which was last Tuesday, still would not start.
Pulled it home, went out Saturday morning to look at it and hit the key and it fired right off. At this point I don't really know where to look, I wiggled every wire I could find while it was running Saturday and no change, but it does seem to have a miss in it while it is idling...... I am not sure where to start looking....
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I finally got my 02 F350 running again after replacing the Fried PCM, but during some additional shop prep work, I discovered that the engine dies when you use the horn button, it will start right up afterwards so no permanent damage, but, Where to start? I have Forscan and a cable so I can get into the PCM but I need to know where to look or what PIDS I should be watching during troubleshooting.
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I have a 2002 excursion 7.3L. It has started dying lately after I let off of the pedal and the vehicle slows down and the engine is supposed to go to idle but sometimes it dies. It will start back up right away. It has begun to start a little rougher especially after it dies. I have replace the CPS and I got new batteries.
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I have a 2002 ford excursion. I know they have cali emissions. It runs fine then suddenly dies while driving. We've replaced the glow plug switch and relay. Neither one fixed the problem. we washed the motor a while back and it fried the programmer wiring.
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My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
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I have a 2001 f350 4x4 edge programmer 330k miles. I bought it not running right and thought it would be a easy fix. I'm fairly knowledgeable with the 7.3. Original symptoms where it would run for 5-10 minutes lose power and quit. No restart until it sat for a few hours. P1211 was code, so I figure it's a high pressure oil problem. The truck has a new icp, Ipr, fuel pump, a receipt from dealer where they replaced 1 injectors o ring. I figure the o rings where bad. I replaced all of them.
1 injector was pretty bad the o ring was kinda tore up and disfigured, and 1 had new o rings. Why they would just replace 1 I'll never know. Well the problem still exists, it starts fine sounds good. It will idle 20-30 minutes then get sluggish if I give it any fuel. It's a lot better than before I can floor it and it will rev up and after a few revs it gets better again. If I unplug the icp the idle will go up and down and almost die. Trying to start warm it will just barely run at 4-500 rpm then quit unless I can get it to rev. Once it revs up it seems ok. Does that sound like a hpop problem or am I even on. The right path?
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Today I was driving about 35 mph when I drove over a small patch of rough pavement and I started feeling and hearing a rumbling sound from the right side of my truck.
It felt like I was driving on a dirt road so thinking it may be my flex plate I put the truck in neutral and the rpms went to idle and the rumbling stayed consistent with the tire rotation. When I get to about 5mph it just clears up and drives fine until I hit another bump.
Is this my wheel bearing?
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I have a 2000 F250 superduty crew cab short box. It has any occasional issue of either just shutting down (engine dies) which seems to happen if i hit an occasional bump. The other issue has happened a couple of times which is it will lose power and just go to a rough idle. I shut it off and restart it and it will run fine. I'm wondering if it is the throttle position sensor.
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When I turn on my fan for the AC or vent or heat, it works just fine on the first and second settings. When I move the fan speed to the third and last speed, I hear this sound that sounds like the blower fan is hitting something. I turn the speed back to the lower two settings and noise goes away. Sometimes I turn it back to the higher settings and the noise actually will go away but most of the time the noise is there.
I pulled the blower motor out yesterday and set it to where I can turn it on while out of the compartment and I didn't really notice a noise. I wonder if the noise is there but I am just not hearing it since it is not enclosed in the compartment? I also noticed there is a crack in the fan where it mounts to the shaft starting at the shaft and extending out one direction and also 180 degrees the other direction. Thoughts on if the motor is bad or just the fan? Or even something else that I may not be seeing?
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I have a 2000 F250 super cab and the doors rattle going over bumps. I've seen the weather stripping mod and intend to do this but my drivers side doors are touching at the top. Would this indicate that the busings are shot? With the doors open, when I lift on the outer edge there is no movement in the hinge area. The drives door and drivers side back door actually touch and rub at the top. Any pointers?
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For probably years, I have had a bump, thump type noise when I start from a dead stop... say at a red light. I had it in my head, maybe there was that much slop in the drive train... as old truck is over 400,000 miles.
Yesterday, I rebuilt the driver's side axle, bearing,seals, new hub...the works.. I heard that noise again later... and my thoughts were, I did all that work and I'm going to find a lower/upper ball joint is bad, although I did look at them and thought they were fine during the rebuild.
Had my wife get in truck.... and swing wheel back & forth... so maybe I could see what was loose.. or making noise.
I was shocked... just something I never thought of looking at. The u-bolts holding the leaf springs were loose... the whole axle was shifting back and forth on the axle. I've never touched those bolts....
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I know there are a few threads floating around regarding truck dieing, but mine is slightly different than the others, maybe its the same culprit, maybe not, but i thought i would start a new thread just in case.
First, I commute about 50 miles to work everyday, truck gets plenty of interstate highway run time, smooth as silk. About a month and half ago when i almost got to work I slowed to stop at a red light. As I came to a stop the truck "stumbled". Acted like it wanted to die but caught itself and kept going. I said whooaaaa girl, what this? Ive had this truck for almost 10 yrs now and never anything like this. About a week or so later, same commute, same red light, cept this time it dies. Starts right back up no problem. Just acted like someone turned the key off.
Then a week or so after that, while driving home this time, as I pulled up at the house to check the mail at the mailbox, when i came to a stop it died. Cranked right back up. Before I could put in drive, it died again. Cranked right back up and i drove on into the driveway. Then a few days later, while checking the mail again, it died again. Cranked up immediately and parked.
Today, while driving home, after i had gotten back to town, but before i got home i made a stop at bank drive thru, when i came to a stop, it died. While cranking it wanted to start and kind of stumbled on itself and died. Then it cranked right up and i came on home no problem.
So far it only occurs after approx 45min to 1 hr of operating time so the engine and everything else are at temp and far from cold. After reading thru some of the other threads of similar but different conditions (cold start dieing, dieing while under power, etc) Im getting flooded with ideas of what could cause it, but not settled on any.
1.Could be failing ICP? (original, has never been changed, 317k+).
2.Could be plugged fuel filters? (been a while since changing, approx 30k+)
3.Could related to one of my own earlier threads regarding possible failing alternator (when rpms drop can volts drop enough to kill engine?)
4.Could be loose ignition switch? (about 2 yrs ago i had to swap the blinker switch, to get to it had to remove the ignition. Upon re-installation the switch never did get tight as before and was loose. Been loose ever since. To the point that with key out of ignition and door ajar i will get the door chime as if the key was in ignition. I can bump the ignition, and chime goes away. Been this way for two years and no apparent problems. Until now maybe?)
I was thinking ICP after a few of the other threads, but after tonight Im leaning towards the ignition switch. I guess i can try to wiggle the switch after cranking tomorrow and see what that does for a trouble shooting effort. Is there a way to trouble shoot the ICP to see if its failing or not? Isn't that a fairly costly sensor? Would hate to buy one and not be the cause, but after 317k i may need to buy before too long anyway.
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Changed CPS,EBPV sensor and tube,replaced IPR&fuel pressure regulator,batteries 100%,HPOP full,oil level full,fuel in bowl and lift pump runs(have not tested pressure but has good flow).After replacing IPR truck started quickly and idled for 15 minutes,decided to try a test drive ,truck stalled after reversing 10 ft as I shifted into first gear.Now no start!!Losing my mind.
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I have a 99 7.3, I took off driving the other day and after about 10 minutes the truck just dies like I shut the key off but everything was still on. I tried to restart it and it would fire for just a sec then die. I set for about 15 minutes and tried again it fired up and ran about 5 mins then the same thing. I had a buddy hook it up to his scanner and it has a p0605 and another icp code.. We changed the icp then erased the codes.. Ran some rest through the scan took with the truck running and no codes so we took it for a drive made it about 20 minutes away and same thing but this time has the p0605 code again. Could the pcm be bad? I also noticed the electric pump is always on all the time it will cycle at least 30 seconds every time the key is turned??
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My truck will set an idle fine but when I hit the throttle it will die.
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I got a 2000 f350 7.3. Cranks up fine runs fine put in reverse and can back up fine put it in drive and it bogs down and dies. What is causing that.
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Here's the situation - 1999 F350 with the 7.3 PSD, crew cab, auto, 4X4.
The truck runs fine in good weather, but if it's raining or snowing, it will suddenly die - and by that I mean lose all power as though you turned off the key. There's no warning. It lasts for a period of time, and then the truck will restart - most of the time.
It's seems like it should be a pretty simple/obvious electrical problem, but I've had the truck in to two of the best diesel shops in town, and neither has been able to locate the problem, in spite of countless hours and some pretty big bills being racked up.
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I've been working on my truck for months now on and off. I thought i finally had it back, but i have (again) problems with running. it basically only ran for a full day (hauling trip) after getting it back up and running. next day, it died on me on the road.
The new deal right now is that I can make the truck start and it will run, but it has little "hiccups" or misfires that will happen every now and then. Once it gets warm enough, the idling sounds chopped (best way i can explain it). After "chopping" it will then run fine (until the next chop). then it seems that once the truck gets warm it just stalls out. When that happens (shutting off) i can't get it to start right away. i have to wait awhile before it'll start and that lasts only so long.
The truck puffs a tiny bit of white smoke. not constant but more like a "puh - puh - puh" ....I've changed out quite a bit of used up parts now...
Turbo
Injectors & wiring harness
valve seals
IDM
ICP
IPR
CPS
MAP
fuel pump
vacuum pump
glow plug relay
starter relay
All the sensors are OEM. There's fuel in the fuel bowl, and the filter is clean. Plenty of oil in HPOP & oil level in crankcase is good. Have plenty of fuel.
Air filter is clean and fine. No codes. No lights.
2001 f350 7.3 320k on it.
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