Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 F550 Taking 4 Seconds Of Cranking To Start Consistently Hot Or Cold
Feb 11, 2016
I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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I have a 2001 F-350 7.3L Powerstroke. 48,000 miles. I've been having trouble with cold starts. So far it has always started but is taking a lot of cranking, but it hasn't gotten too cold yet so I'm worried about when it does. I ohmed out the the glow plugs and am getting close to 0 resistance. The GPR has 12.5 volts on the hot side and when the relay is closed 10.5 on the other side. Is that difference in voltage in the GPR enough to screw up the Glow Plugs heating up? If I plug it in at night it starts right up. I'm worried about when I am at work for 16 hours and don't have a place to plug it in this winter. BTW this is my first winter with the truck.
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I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
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I am a longtime 7.3 IDI guy with an 88 F350 crew so i know about diesels. But this is my first electronic diesel. I picked up a 2001 F450 2wd auto 260k miles. it used to be my work's truck but was stitting for a year and now i got it in "non running condition"
I towed it home and got it started by replacing the batteries and using the block heater.
As expected it took a few tries of long cranking to run the first time. runs pretty good and no smoke. what surprised me is it still takes about 5 sec of cranking to restart each time when warm too. any direction you would look with those symptoms? HPOP, IPR?
i am pretty sure the glow plugs all work because mechanics had replaced all that stuff. but i know back when the truck was last used it would still never start cold unless plugged in (even in summer).
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I recently did the following work:
New Injectors
New T500 Hpop
New IPR
New ICP Sensor
New UVCH/Glowplugs
New starter
Been cranking about 15-30 seconds each time about a dozen times now. I've pulled the icp and the hp crossover and have oil flowing at each.
ICP builds to about 240 psi and at a 98% duty cycle....so I assume there's still some air in the system. I"m not getting any sense that the engine is trying to hit. Do i just keep cranking?
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I just did an engine swap and have an odd noise that I was curious on where to start. It sounds like a buzz test on an injector at 2,250 rpm and gets louder as rpms increase but starts out very faint and get louder. Makes noise converter unlocked and locked in gear under load and free rev no load.
-2002 F550
-Fuel pressure is 60+ psi all the time
-Regulated return fuel system
-New injectors all AD
-Stock tune
-38R turbo
-New flexplate
-injector hold down tight
-new degas res
-new water pump.....
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I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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I have Warn hubs that I have to lock in. All works good. A/C goes to defrost at first when cranking but then runs fine after a couple seconds. So, I was thinking that maybe my pump is running all the time. Who knows. I'm sure all my vacuum lines are dry rotted. What exactly is the need for it exactly and what's the best way to cap? Hoping to do it at the unit itself if possible.
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I had the engine out of my truck (7.3 with e4od) to do manifolds. Anyway, I got it back in and started it up. Since there was air in th fuel lines it had to crank a couple seconds but started up. I looked and now fluid coming out, then it sat for a few minutes running and I took it for a drive. While sitting in the driveway it wa smoking a bit. But I thought it's from the oil I got in the exhaust while drilling two of the manifold bolts and soaking the bolts with ATF/acetone. After about half a mile I thought that maybe it's more oil then that would cause... So I went back. I looked and the inside of the exhaust is covered with oil, and the rear of the engine is also.
When it was out I capped all of the open ports so I could pressure wash the grease off. Also, I flipped the CCV so I could do the delete. During instal, I missed the cap on the CCV and it was not able to breath. I think that maybe it built up pressure and blew the valve cover gasket? It looks like it's coming from the right cover on the backside; I had not taken this cover off while the engine was out. How much pressure does it build? Is it possible that it could have blown the gasket out? I have done the oil cap trick to test blowby and it always passed the test. What it could be? For the leak on the engine and why it's in the exhaust?
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I recently bought an 02 Chrysler sebring (4 cyl) When cold, it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking for engine to start. Is that normal?
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I have an '87 Celica and it takes a good 10 seconds of cranking to start. After being parked only 24 hours, it's the same thing. It won't even give a hint of a kick until about the 8 second mark. Then it'll give a couple of sputters and eventually fire right up. Is this the fuel pressure regulator that's the problem? Is it not keeping the fuel at the rail pressurized properly when sitting? It's just annoying having to sit there cranking for so long to get going. I would think if it was the pump, it would give me problems when running.
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I have a 2002 f350 that has had cold starting issues since I bought it. I have replaced the glow plugs twice, the glow plug solenoid four times. When I put a new solenoid on it it works fine for a short time. I know the solenoids are bad because I get battery voltage on one side and nothing on the other. If I jump the solenoid with a jumper wire I can get the truck to start. I thought I was getting bad solenoids but I have recently tested the activation circuit and am getting constant power there. I.e. It never shuts off. I think this is what is causing the solenoids to burn up. From the tracing of wiring diagrams I have done, the only thing before the solenoid is the Pcm. So now to the question,
1) What controls the activation of the Glow plugs? Is there a temperature sensor or something before the Pcm.
2) Is this a case of my Pcm going out on me? I am a mechanic in the army so I have a decent understanding of mechanics.
However I am at a loss for these systems.
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Got a 2002 7.3 F-350 with 300,000 miles and for the last couple of years I've been getting blue smoke on cold morning start ups and its been gradually getting worse, it clears up after about 30 seconds and all is normal,No loss of performance, Oil consumption is minor, however I hate a vehicle that blue smokes, I'm guessing my issue is valve seals are worn, I was wondering if it is possible to replace the seals while the heads are on the engine? and was also wondering how much time it would take to fix? as i would have to have it professionally done. I know its hard to guess a time frame and everyone is different. Sounds like textbook valve seals to me but is there anything else I should check first?
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I've got a99 F2 50 super duty with a 2000 2001 motor. I got the truck in the beginning of last winter so this is my first summer with it.
When I first got the truck there are injector issues with the truck. Since I fix the issues there has been little problems out of the truck however it's still suffered misfires when Cold but once up to operating temperature it was fine. Yesterday I had to go with a friend before leaving for the trip I checked the oil it was full and appeared normal the trip was about 150 miles. I came home park the truck after everything was done. This morning I came out started the truck everything acted as it should... truck fired right up everything was great went and dropped off my trailer at the yard come back got fuel when I come back out from paying for the fuel the truck took about 30 seconds to fire up I checked my gauges and torque pro and everything seemed normal. So on my way I went.
I drove about 10 miles on the highway to the place I had to be when I got done doing my business I came back out to start my truck and it did the same thing this time however it took longer to start I managed to drive about a mile down the road when I noticed my old pressure gauge flickering and my Oil pressure light on I immediately shut it down and coasted into O'Reilly's parking lot I check the oil in the truck and it was empty according to the stick I added two whole gallon.... With it filled back up down the road I went. So currently the truck is still suffering from a long hard starts it takes 30 to 45 seconds before it all actually fire up once it fires up everything appears to be fine however the truck is slowly smoking a bluish black color... It's never done this before however I've never had this truck in the middle of summer when it's real hot out I don't think this is normal.
The truck doesn't appear to be down on any power actually it, acts as if it might've picked up of some power it is felt real peppy today compared to other days. Also I might note that about a week or two ago I started smelling diesel like either really rich diesel or raw diesel wasn't too bad but I just got whiffs of it for now and then. Now there is a burn oil smell present from the exhaust. Like I was saying earlier when I first got the truck I had to service the injector O-rings... I was told that the miss firing when cold was caused by the Poppitz sticking. The misfire hasn't been present since it got a little warm outside like I was saying it was only when the vehicle is cold.... Just thought I would mention the injector issue not sure if it's relative or not..... My thoughts are it's back to an injector issue or O-rings or possibly did I wipe the motor when it ran out of oil. I am not aware of where the oil went as there is been no leaks or drips.
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This is an issue I started chasing after having all the injectors replaced on my aunt's F-350. We had them replaced due to hard/no start on cold (dealership told her they needed to be changed). Unfortunately, I did not get the buzz test results before changing the injectors.
So far that has been replaced:
Injectors
ICP (was leaking)
IPR
both UVCH
IDM (twice)
The issue we are having right now is that only 2 injectors (#6, #7) buzz properly. Initially when we changed the injectors, it did start but didn't seem to run quite right. We did the buzz test and at that time and injectors 1,3,5,6,7 would buzz strong but the rest were weak. After some forum lurking, we suspected that the IDM was faulty. We purchased a refurbished one and after we changed it, only injectors 6,7 would buzz strong. Thinking a faulty IDM was sent it back for a replacement. While waiting, we decided to put the old one back in figuring it would go back as it was before but only 6,7 would buzz strong. We receive the second IDM and same thing, only 6,7 buzz strong. We did a continuity test from the IDM connector and they all get 2.7 ohms (it was an older multimeter so not sure if being .1 under the 2.8-3.6 range is bad).
What I did next is use the uvch external pigtail to test the injectors. I plugged the extra pig tail into the uvch and then the ends of the wires into the plug of the upper harness. Afterwards, I would swap a different injector wire (on the pigtail) to the #6 injector wire (on the upper harness). Whatever injector that would go to #6 would fire correctly. So I know that the injectors themselves are fine. I am suspecting the wiring harnesses (upper/lower) but the continuity test would say otherwise. We also do not get any fault codes except for the EBP occasionally (waiting for a new one). I am lost on what to test or look at next.
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Ok I'm working on a 2000 7.3 on a F550 truck was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start it turns over and were getting black smoke from the tail pipe. What is going on with it?
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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Ok I've got an 01 F250 sd 7.3 with 257k on it it just started talking longer to start than it should it will do it cold or hot even if I shut it off at the drive thru takes it like 10 sec or more to fire. My question is I thought about purchasing a autoenginuity to find the problem but not sure the best place to get and what model I should get.
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This morning I went to start her up, and she fired right up and I let her warm up until oil temp got to 100F, when I realized that I wasn't leaving right away so I shut it down and came back about an hour later. Oil temp now at 78F, but she wouldn't start. Have Torque Pro running, and the IPR is going straight to 98.6% every time while cranking, sits at 14.7% with KOEO.
Truck's been running fine, recent oil/filter change (T6 10-40W), cleaned & re-installed CAC tubes/boots for leaks. All else seems good. Pulling the ICP sensor shows HPOP going to 2800psi, with IPR @ 30%, still no start and not even a cough.
The IPR is original, rebuilt once several years ago.
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Was driving to work about 4 miles into my travel rolled around corned and she died..... tow bill and cps she fired rite up. Ran at idle in drive way because I was a little leary for about an hour left drive way went 2 miles went to pull in to store died again. Another tow bill and 2 more cps still won't start rpm is only like 200 when cranking but sounds like a lot more. The wts light works, batteries are pretty new, cps in new...
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Dang, won't start again. My auction truck needed batteries, so I put mine in it and bought new ones for my work truck. Couple of days later, didn't start. Checked SG and I wasn't getting enough RPM. Jumped it and it fired right up. Replaced one of the new batteries and it's started fine the last few times, until just now, in the parking lot of the tire store.
The RPMs were weak - they'd go over 160 but then fall back to the 140s. I walked home and got my auction truck, jumped it, and it still doesn't start. Just spins. RPMs still fall back to the 140s after a few seconds of cranking, but they got as high as 220 so I don't think that is the problem. Fuel pump runs, the upper bowl is full, no bubbles. Oil pressure registers on the dash after a few seconds of cranking.
The last time, I wiggled some fuses and it started. Not this time. FICM at 48, ICP around 700 while cranking. Volts and IPV are good. FPW is 0, but I think that's right, until it cranks. Same with Sync - at 0 while cranking - does it ever go to 1 without starting?
It acts like it has in the past - cranking just fine but no start. And in the past, when it finally starts, it acts like nothing was ever wrong. I checked my IPR screen about a month ago after replacing it about 6 months ago when it didn't start. What am I missing? I'll go read some threads for clues.
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