Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 F350 Truck Stars But Won't Drive
Nov 30, 2015
I have a 2002 f350 7.3. It was running fine 2 days ago. After I put some diesel in it my water in fuel light came on. I drained the water out and took all the fuel out and put fresh diesel in it. It starts up fine and idles okay but when I try to drive it it looses all power and acts like it's starving for fuel and almost dies. It was smoking white smoke for a little bit even after I took all the water out but now it's black. What it could be.
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I have a 2000 Excursion diesel 7.3. I drove it for an hour yesterday and it drove great. When I arrived home I left the truck running and put it in park. Checked the mailbox and jumped back in the truck and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried FWD and reverse. Moved a little in reverse.
I turned the truck off then cranked it back up put it in drive and it drove fine..... Took it for a test drive and seems fine.
Did the same thing today. Went to drop my kids off and I put it in park and left the engine running. Put it back into drive and it would not move.
Turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove off fine.
Fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Wondering if this is converter or electrical and how long I can drive it like this.
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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I bought a 99 f350 truck. it has a van turbo and exhaust back pressure delete. The truck wont make more than 3 PSI of boost. Ive got a p1690 wastegate actuator circuit code. unplugging the waste actuator does nothing. With the van turbo, is the actuator required? Is this code stopping the ecu from fueling and creating boost? I did a cylinder balance test, and cylinder 8 failed. Is a single injector not quite balanced enough to make it not boost past 3 psi? The turbo appears brand new (previous owner said it was), charge pipes hold pressure (tested), EBP Sensor tube is clean (shows up to 24 psi). I tested the wastegate actuator, OnDemand5 says if its over 50 ohms, its bad and replace it. its 69.5 ohms. Again, i dont want to replace it if i dont have to, as its not being used (no wastegate on van turbo), but if the ecu is preventing it from spooling because of the solenoid, ill change it.
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Am looking into buying a new transfer case (TC), and one web-site indicated there were 2 different automatic transmissions; Manual vs electronic -shift? So some TC's for 2000 AT's would not work? I found one (used) that was from a 2002.
My truck came to a grinding halt yesterday and I believe the TC. I had been hearing noise for a while and had been in the process of eliminating other causes (u-joints, ball joints) and think it was the TC all along.
I did not notice any issues with the AT prior.
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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My spine was damaged in an IED blast in Iraq a few years ago and my truck is getting harder and harder to drive. It sends every little bump up me. It looks like I have the original shocks on there.
What is recommended for shocks or possibly seat upgrades or any other possible solutions. I love my truck and don't want have to get something else.
The most I haul is my jeep on a trailer and occasionally two jeeps (8000lbs)...
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This is wife typing in middle of trip. Today we drove almost 300 miles down the road before it stuttered. We lost the tach but nothing else. No check engine lights. It has done it a few times since. Watching with Torque and don't see anything there. Have 100 miles to go and it's happening more frequently. Replaced CPS 4 weeks ago with a Ford grey. Running down road it's 95 day. Oil was checked to be good at 211, transmission 182, EGT 790, pulling enclosed 6x12 cargo trailer. What can I check?
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OK, truck is 2000 F350. I am heading on a 2000 mile roadtrip to Yellowstone for my wife's 40th birthday in two days. What was our rock of a vehicle is now causing me severe anxiety.
Over the last few days the truck has been difficult to start - almost stops turning over as if the batteries were low. So I ignored it because if I plug it in, it starts fine and if I drive it and it gets hot - it starts fine.
Tonight while driving - I noticed a high idle and then it went to normal - I thought it was weird and a few miles later at a stop sign it struggled at idle, sort of loping but not romping very high and the over drive light started blinking. When I got home when I went from drive to neutral it goes to high idle and then the overdrive light blinks. The first time it blinked it went off when I pressed the OD button - but now it continues to blink.
Would low batteries be the root cause of this? I will continue my search for blinking OD light but I thought I would get this in the queue in case this is bigger than I can handle. I have 48 hours to resolve this issue - leaving Wednesday early morning.
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
Is there something I can look for before I bring it to a mechanic?
Just to clarify I am a gal with little wrenching skills but I can look at videos and follow directions if it's not too involved.
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2002 F 350 7.3 4x4
Aftermarket gauge will climb to 250 after around town driving of an hour or so or multiple trips within the hour. Not towing. 160,000 miles on odometer. Changed trans fluid at 40,000 mile intervals. Most recently about 1500 miles ago. Most recent change using Mark K's method. Was getting fluid from rear port when I changed fluid. Blew out oil cooler and there did not seem to be a blockage as flow was sufficient.
Still overheating according to autometer trans gauge in test port. No codes retrieved using auto-ingenuity also O/ D light is not flashing. Would like to run torque converter slip test using AE according to wooden things method but TC slip desired and transmission gear ratio is not available under that name in live data meter. AE just updated to most recent version.
I purchased a new tranny oil bypass and will install soon. Also purchased a new 6.0 cooler to replace stocker but am hesitant to install if tranny is failing because I am concerned that the new cooler will just get some blockage from a potentially failing transmission and I will be buying a new cooler along with a BTS rebuild.
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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I have 2002 F250 7.3 Auto, I recently tried to put my truck in to 4 wheel drive and it is not working. It has WARN manual locking hubs, which I locked. Dash indicator came on and I can hear it click on the transfer case. Yet it isn't driving the front tires. It shouldn't be a vacuum issue considering it had been converted to manual hubs should it?
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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So a few weeks back, i went to the store after work, came out and my truck just cranked and cranked but wouldn't turn over. I simply turned the key off and back on, waited for the WTS light to go out and she started up. I just blew it off, thinking i didn't wait long enough to start it.
Then, later that week i come out of a restaurant and it cranks and cranks but doesn't start. i tried turning the key off and on, waiting 30 seconds between em and still nothing. Then a few minutes later, i try again and she fires up, no problems and runs like a champ.
Well 2 fridays ago, I go out with some buddies, go to leave and it happens again. Cranks and cranks, but not starting. I got a ride to my place, grabbed a fuel filter, thinking maybe its clogged, it's been awhile since i changed it. I got back to my truck, and it started up fine, without changing the filter.
Then last night as i am out of town, 10 hours away from home it happens again. And i kept trying and trying and trying but it never wanted to start. I was about to submit my payment for the Uber back to my hotel when i decide to try it again and it fired right up.
Now I'm kind of afraid to drive anywhere and shut off my truck in fear of being stranded. What could be causing this? I've looked every where and havent found someone with the exact same problem, usually when i find a thread on turning over but not starting, the truck dies once it runs as well. Mine doesn't. when it starts, she runs great.
No smoke coming out the tail pipe when cranking.
WTS light comes on and off as it should.
Tach does not move, and it won't because it's a 2002.
Where to start, would the CPS cause it to act this way? It only seems to do it when the engine is warm.
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I'm trying to figure out what axle I have on a 2002 f350 single wheel 4x4 so I can order a replacement seal. So this morning I got to work and noticed that am oily guild was dripping from the front of my rear differential where the drive shaft hooks into it. I figure it the seal, so when I went to look up the repair kit they list several different axle options because of gearing, what axle I have as there wasn't a in owners manual with the truck. Who can I find out what axle I have so I can buy the repair kit for it...
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I finally got my 02 F350 running again after replacing the Fried PCM, but during some additional shop prep work, I discovered that the engine dies when you use the horn button, it will start right up afterwards so no permanent damage, but, Where to start? I have Forscan and a cable so I can get into the PCM but I need to know where to look or what PIDS I should be watching during troubleshooting.
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I have an 02 F350 7.3 ... I just installed my glowshift tripple gauge pillar set. I have an EGT, Boost and fuel pressure gauge ... I followed all the constructions on installing them. The boost is working just fine and the EGT was too, but after a while the needle started going back and forth and the red warning light what blinking and then it just sat at 0 with the warning light on and stay that way. My fuel pressure gauge is connected to a sensore i put in my fuel filter housing, my fuel pressure gayge right from the start stayed at 30 psi with the red warning light on and just stays there .... Also the buttons to change the color and set the peak on the EGT gauge are sticking for some reason and staying down and aren't letting me change the color ...
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