Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 F250 - Truck Lost Power Then Died - No Codes
Apr 29, 2015
I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
Another "no start" issue... The details:
- 2002 F250 7.3L
- Rosewood stage two single shot injectors (rebuilt 1 week ago).
- DP Tuner
- Brand new OEM IPR
- ICP about two months old (OEM)
- New UVH's installed about a month ago
The issue: After installing the injectors and driving about 30 miles the truck died and will not restart. Had to have it towed home. Thus far, I've unplugged the ICP, switched out the CPS with a known good, replaced the IPR, checked the hpop simply by removing the fill plug on the top of the reservoir and gave it a quick crank - oil definitely came pouring out, removed valve covers and plugs to verify oil in the high pressure rails. Oil dummy gauge climbs after about 5 seconds of cranking and seems to hold.
Hoping it's not an injector failure as I just had these reworked. EDIT: Forgot to mention, not seeing any white smoke while cranking. Fuel bowl, full of fuel and fuel pump was replaced this past spring. What to check next? Tried taking a snapshot from a video to show the readings. The ICP seems low, and when unplugged shoots up the 2500, but still no start.
View 14 Replies
Last night when i left work I noticed my fuel pressure was running about 77 psi, it normally runs about 68psi. today I took my daughter to practice and it was around 83psi, on the way home it was up to 95psi, so I parked it and took another truck to work.
About a week and a half ago I lost fuel pressure going down the highway and the truck died, finally decided my pick-up foot must have come off and had my sister in law bring me some diesel and it has drove fine ever since. (it was right at a quarter tank).
I have the FRX from riffraff and am thinking some pieces of that foot have got into the fuel bowl and plugging up the return. Things to check? Could it be a problem with the fuel gauge or wiring, and how to test them. It is an autometer gauge from riffraff.
It will probably be a few weeks before I can do much more than clean out the fuel bowl. I don't have anywhere inside to work on it and it's been rain/sleet/freezing rain/snow for the last 10 days. I have most of the stuff to do the hutch mod and its next on the list but was hoping to put it off till spring.
View 13 Replies
Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
View 14 Replies
My pickup has 316,000 miles on it. It's a 2000 ford f250 7.3 powerstroke. I have always bragged how my truck can pull anything because it has alot of power. Yesterday when pulling a 28' travel trailer up an incline I noticed I didn't have much power and it steadily got worse. Now I'm at a crawl when I hear a noise sounding like it lost air compression for a few minutes then the noise stopped. I stopped and looked to make sure everything under the hood was still attached and everything seemed fine.
I got back in and continued very slowly a few more miles home. Gauge were all good, never got hot. I put a scanner on it and it threw two codes. P1247 and P1248. I haven't noticed any unusual smoke. This is my second ford I've owned and know that when weather gets cold you may have to plug it in. But this truck it doesn't matter if it's 100 outside it will not start without plugging in for at least 1 hour. I've replaced all glow plugs hasn't worked. So I am assuming this break down now has something to do with it. I really am starting to not like fords!
View 13 Replies
My 2006 F250 was towing my 5th wheel when it started to loose power and eventually died. Would not restart. Replaced all fuel filters to no avail. Towed to mechanic shop. Has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Waiting for mechanic to check it out.
View 3 Replies
I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
View 14 Replies
I am working on an 2003 F-250 6.0l. The truck just died while driving. No restart. Plugged in my scan tool and I am not getting any High pressure oil. Is there anything other than the Hpop I should be looking at. I know it is a big job to replace the hpop so I don't want to overlook something simple.
View 14 Replies
Tires have less than 10,000 miles on them, and air pressure is within 2 lbs left to right side.
New calipers.
New soft lines.
New hard lines.
New pads.
New rotors.
New ball joints.
New tie rod ends and center link.
New front axle universals.
Brake fluid and all other parts are less than 6 months old. I can let go of the wheel and the truck tracks straight, 10mph to 100 mph. Whether I am going 10 mph, or 100 mph, when i first step on the brakes the truck jumps right. Needless to say, the faster i am going, the worse it jumps.
After first brake application, truck tracks straight. Let go of the wheel and it tracks straight from 100mph to a dead stop with brakes applied after the initial jump. Whether I am hard on the brakes or gentle, it does not pull at all. Only on the initial step on the brakes.I am at a loss as to what the heck is wrong with it.
View 14 Replies
On the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
View 14 Replies
Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
View 14 Replies
So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 6.0 when it has having troubles trying to cut out when running low rpms but would throttle out of it then it lost all power cab filled with smoke and died now it does nothing won't even try to turn over everything under the hood is covered in soot I'm ready to pull the cab just wondering if I didn't loose any oil or coolant...
View 6 Replies
So today on my way home from work. I got off at my exit and when I went to step on the gas I lost power and the truck wouldn't exceed 15 mph. It would just rev up and down. It was pouring white smoke from the tailpipe. At one point it went back to normal and started running fine for about 10 seconds. Then it went back to doing the same thing losing power and spitting smoke. I limped the truck into a parking lot and called a ride. I'm having a tow truck pick it up on Monday and take it to the dealership. Is this a head gasket issue? And I feel like it's going to be expensive. 2006 F250 6.0L .....
View 11 Replies
Jumped in the 1999 cc dually 7.3 6 spd superduty.
Just rebuilt the rear locker ( FYI if you use new clutches Do NOT add clutches, it is TOO tight now) and rest of rear end.
Full of fuel, drove it half the day only minor issues. Cruise, Horn, 4x4, suddenly would not work, but it was running and driving like it always has.
Around lunch while at 55 mph it shuttered hard like it had stalled for a second. I stopped and checked the oil. It was just above the add but I topped it off and went one. The further I went the more it happened.
So I decided to head back to shop and switch it with the car i had left there. It finally died like it was out of fuel.
next day I take 5 gallons of fuel and put in it ( maybe the gauge is acting up like the horn, cruise and 4x4?), it brings it from 3/4 plus to full mark, so gauge is working accurate. I also keep a fuel log that says i went 100 miles since last fill up.
Get in, it fires right up. I leave it sit and idle while i park the car. About 5 minutes and it dies. It will start run a few seconds and die again. The more I try it the shorter time it runs.
Finally does not want it start at all. I read about disconnecting plug on inside left front of valve cover , that had not effect. Crawled under, and frame mounted fuel pump is running.
View 14 Replies
So there's no signal/ electrical feed to the passenger side cylinders. I ohmd all the UVCH and they check out. Moved the wiring harness around near the big black multi pin plug under the air intake to the turbo and the passenger bank kicks in and out so it's definitely a wiring short. Need links and pics to that multi pin plug to troubleshoot the wiring.....
View 8 Replies
I have a 2001 F350 7.3l diesel.
My truck died the other day while driving almost like he ran out of fuel. Well he had fuel so I checked the oil and it was dry. There was an ugly puddle between the intakes and a whole lot on the ground leaking out. Also the puddle looked blueish.
Put in more oil and got him home but I can't find the leak. The only thing I've noticed is that the intercooler on the cold side came off slightly. A year ago I had to go mess with the UCVH and when I put it back together I had lost a dang intercooler duct clamp and replaced it with a sturdy ring clamp. Well it wasn't sturdy enough.
How much would this leak if it came off for a little while and how serious of a problem would I have as a result? I don't have any check engine light and as long as he has oil he runs fine.
Since I have reconnected the intercooler and idle tested the truck I can't reproduce the leak. I don't believe that a huge amount of oil is running through that intercooler because the turbo is lubricated through another system I have read. So what gives?
Also I am getting weird dip stick reading. For a little while when I ran the truck today he was showing WAY over full on the dip and then down again a little bit below the operating range line. Also there are a lot of air bubbles on the dip stick when it comes up. Way more than I am used to seeing.
Also, I really like the idea of cleaning my engine off really good. It's a frigging mess now. What precautions can I take to clean it up good without making a huge mess. Can I just go the car wash that has a degreaser hose and drain and just spray it down like nothing or is it sensitive and finnicky when wet? Cleaning between the intakes seems almost impossible without getting the whole turbo system out of the way. Should I be thinking about that?
View 14 Replies
On my way to work today it was raining so I turned my head lights on. All the dash warning lights came on and my truck had zero throttle response. I quickly turned my lights off. The truck went right back to normal. I turned my lights back on and nothing happened.
View 12 Replies
I have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
View 9 Replies
2001 f250 7.3 with 210,000 miles. Was running rough when cold and glow plugs were bad so I bought new glow plugs and had injectors rebuilt with 100% over stock nozzles. When I changed them I made sure I turned the motor with glow plugs out and pulled the drain plug in the head. Wanted to start it just to get the oil out before I let it sit for a few days til I got the tuner. It started fine and I let it run while I ran in the house and when I came back out about 1 min later it was off. Didn't want to start again. Just left it til I got the tuner on and It still doesn't want to start. What I should check? Turns over good and has good batteries. Also it's a hydra chip tuner with beans tunes. Darren weeks rebuilt the injectors.
View 7 Replies
So I'm on my way out of town, when the truck just doesn't feel right. I proceed to make a u turn and pull off the high way. During the course of the u turn the truck shuts off. I pop the hood and notice the oil is everywhere from the fuel bowl back. Oil is also dripping off the passenger frame rail.
There is also a nice size puddle of oil pooled under the truck. I believe that I blew the high pressure oil line that feeds the injectors. I had to get towed back home. If it is the high pressure hose, how much does the stealership normally charge?
View 7 Replies
