Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 F250 Truck Died And Will Not Restart
Nov 23, 2016
Another "no start" issue... The details:
- 2002 F250 7.3L
- Rosewood stage two single shot injectors (rebuilt 1 week ago).
- DP Tuner
- Brand new OEM IPR
- ICP about two months old (OEM)
- New UVH's installed about a month ago
The issue: After installing the injectors and driving about 30 miles the truck died and will not restart. Had to have it towed home. Thus far, I've unplugged the ICP, switched out the CPS with a known good, replaced the IPR, checked the hpop simply by removing the fill plug on the top of the reservoir and gave it a quick crank - oil definitely came pouring out, removed valve covers and plugs to verify oil in the high pressure rails. Oil dummy gauge climbs after about 5 seconds of cranking and seems to hold.
Hoping it's not an injector failure as I just had these reworked. EDIT: Forgot to mention, not seeing any white smoke while cranking. Fuel bowl, full of fuel and fuel pump was replaced this past spring. What to check next? Tried taking a snapshot from a video to show the readings. The ICP seems low, and when unplugged shoots up the 2500, but still no start.
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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My 01 4x4 F350CCD was having this "issue" where, after leaving it plugged in all night, I would start it up with no problems but then after idling for maybe 15-30 seconds it would just fade out and shut off. The first few times I would hit the key again and it would crank for an extended period but then refire and it would idle normally. Eventually I learned that if I held the idle up at around 1000 I could see the rpm drop slightly after starting but it wouldn't shut off.
About a week ago I started the truck and wasn't paying attention and didn't hold the throttle open and the truck shut off. This time after cranking it (probably way to much) it wouldn't start at all. I changed the fuel filter but that did nothing. I also notice that the tach does move to around 500 or so when cranking. I have not changed the CPS but a new one had been installed in May 2015. The engine is cranking but there is no white smoke or even attempt to fire.
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I am working on an 2003 F-250 6.0l. The truck just died while driving. No restart. Plugged in my scan tool and I am not getting any High pressure oil. Is there anything other than the Hpop I should be looking at. I know it is a big job to replace the hpop so I don't want to overlook something simple.
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Tires have less than 10,000 miles on them, and air pressure is within 2 lbs left to right side.
New calipers.
New soft lines.
New hard lines.
New pads.
New rotors.
New ball joints.
New tie rod ends and center link.
New front axle universals.
Brake fluid and all other parts are less than 6 months old. I can let go of the wheel and the truck tracks straight, 10mph to 100 mph. Whether I am going 10 mph, or 100 mph, when i first step on the brakes the truck jumps right. Needless to say, the faster i am going, the worse it jumps.
After first brake application, truck tracks straight. Let go of the wheel and it tracks straight from 100mph to a dead stop with brakes applied after the initial jump. Whether I am hard on the brakes or gentle, it does not pull at all. Only on the initial step on the brakes.I am at a loss as to what the heck is wrong with it.
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Truck is an early 1999 F250 Super Duty ext cab long bed, ZF6 swap. 164k miles on the dash, has the newer injectors and hpop from what I was told. It does have a 6 position switch, I typically keep it at the daily 70 horse gain tune. I do not beat the truck often. I don't tow often either.
Truck always took a few seconds longer to start than other 7.3s I have seen. So two days in row, after 8 hours of sitting in the sun, my truck did not wanna start right. Took about 5 minutes of cranking both days to get it to start. Then today on my way to work in the morning I started truck let it idle, everything seemed fine, Started driving and the engine just didn't sound right, but I figured maybe it was still a little cold. Continued driving, and it stalled out ( zf6) , I tried pop starting it but that only got me another block or two, after 10 minutes of cranking I got it to start up made it a half mile it shut off, same thing started and got it home. It cranked longer than normal but started at home after it I turned it off.
At work now so I have yet to check anything. Replacing CPS after work No smoke out of tailpipe, It is getting fuel, I checked the filter. I am no master mechanic, I do basic maintenance like oil changes, brakes, filters and censors my self. Anything more intensive I have not done. If it is not the CPS what else could it be, and how would I go about checking?
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Jumped in the 1999 cc dually 7.3 6 spd superduty.
Just rebuilt the rear locker ( FYI if you use new clutches Do NOT add clutches, it is TOO tight now) and rest of rear end.
Full of fuel, drove it half the day only minor issues. Cruise, Horn, 4x4, suddenly would not work, but it was running and driving like it always has.
Around lunch while at 55 mph it shuttered hard like it had stalled for a second. I stopped and checked the oil. It was just above the add but I topped it off and went one. The further I went the more it happened.
So I decided to head back to shop and switch it with the car i had left there. It finally died like it was out of fuel.
next day I take 5 gallons of fuel and put in it ( maybe the gauge is acting up like the horn, cruise and 4x4?), it brings it from 3/4 plus to full mark, so gauge is working accurate. I also keep a fuel log that says i went 100 miles since last fill up.
Get in, it fires right up. I leave it sit and idle while i park the car. About 5 minutes and it dies. It will start run a few seconds and die again. The more I try it the shorter time it runs.
Finally does not want it start at all. I read about disconnecting plug on inside left front of valve cover , that had not effect. Crawled under, and frame mounted fuel pump is running.
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So there's no signal/ electrical feed to the passenger side cylinders. I ohmd all the UVCH and they check out. Moved the wiring harness around near the big black multi pin plug under the air intake to the turbo and the passenger bank kicks in and out so it's definitely a wiring short. Need links and pics to that multi pin plug to troubleshoot the wiring.....
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Ok, so my 2002 f250 died on me last Tuesday out of the blue, pulled it home and found fuse 23 I think ECU power was blown. I removed my Hydra, and put a new fuse in it and all seemed well, then Friday evening on my way to dinner was driving along and truck shuts off like someone turned the key off. I replace the Crank sensor, even though I had put a new one in after the first time it died, which was last Tuesday, still would not start.
Pulled it home, went out Saturday morning to look at it and hit the key and it fired right off. At this point I don't really know where to look, I wiggled every wire I could find while it was running Saturday and no change, but it does seem to have a miss in it while it is idling...... I am not sure where to start looking....
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3l diesel.
My truck died the other day while driving almost like he ran out of fuel. Well he had fuel so I checked the oil and it was dry. There was an ugly puddle between the intakes and a whole lot on the ground leaking out. Also the puddle looked blueish.
Put in more oil and got him home but I can't find the leak. The only thing I've noticed is that the intercooler on the cold side came off slightly. A year ago I had to go mess with the UCVH and when I put it back together I had lost a dang intercooler duct clamp and replaced it with a sturdy ring clamp. Well it wasn't sturdy enough.
How much would this leak if it came off for a little while and how serious of a problem would I have as a result? I don't have any check engine light and as long as he has oil he runs fine.
Since I have reconnected the intercooler and idle tested the truck I can't reproduce the leak. I don't believe that a huge amount of oil is running through that intercooler because the turbo is lubricated through another system I have read. So what gives?
Also I am getting weird dip stick reading. For a little while when I ran the truck today he was showing WAY over full on the dip and then down again a little bit below the operating range line. Also there are a lot of air bubbles on the dip stick when it comes up. Way more than I am used to seeing.
Also, I really like the idea of cleaning my engine off really good. It's a frigging mess now. What precautions can I take to clean it up good without making a huge mess. Can I just go the car wash that has a degreaser hose and drain and just spray it down like nothing or is it sensitive and finnicky when wet? Cleaning between the intakes seems almost impossible without getting the whole turbo system out of the way. Should I be thinking about that?
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On my way to work today it was raining so I turned my head lights on. All the dash warning lights came on and my truck had zero throttle response. I quickly turned my lights off. The truck went right back to normal. I turned my lights back on and nothing happened.
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On the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
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I have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
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Last night when i left work I noticed my fuel pressure was running about 77 psi, it normally runs about 68psi. today I took my daughter to practice and it was around 83psi, on the way home it was up to 95psi, so I parked it and took another truck to work.
About a week and a half ago I lost fuel pressure going down the highway and the truck died, finally decided my pick-up foot must have come off and had my sister in law bring me some diesel and it has drove fine ever since. (it was right at a quarter tank).
I have the FRX from riffraff and am thinking some pieces of that foot have got into the fuel bowl and plugging up the return. Things to check? Could it be a problem with the fuel gauge or wiring, and how to test them. It is an autometer gauge from riffraff.
It will probably be a few weeks before I can do much more than clean out the fuel bowl. I don't have anywhere inside to work on it and it's been rain/sleet/freezing rain/snow for the last 10 days. I have most of the stuff to do the hutch mod and its next on the list but was hoping to put it off till spring.
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2001 f250 7.3 with 210,000 miles. Was running rough when cold and glow plugs were bad so I bought new glow plugs and had injectors rebuilt with 100% over stock nozzles. When I changed them I made sure I turned the motor with glow plugs out and pulled the drain plug in the head. Wanted to start it just to get the oil out before I let it sit for a few days til I got the tuner. It started fine and I let it run while I ran in the house and when I came back out about 1 min later it was off. Didn't want to start again. Just left it til I got the tuner on and It still doesn't want to start. What I should check? Turns over good and has good batteries. Also it's a hydra chip tuner with beans tunes. Darren weeks rebuilt the injectors.
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So I'm on my way out of town, when the truck just doesn't feel right. I proceed to make a u turn and pull off the high way. During the course of the u turn the truck shuts off. I pop the hood and notice the oil is everywhere from the fuel bowl back. Oil is also dripping off the passenger frame rail.
There is also a nice size puddle of oil pooled under the truck. I believe that I blew the high pressure oil line that feeds the injectors. I had to get towed back home. If it is the high pressure hose, how much does the stealership normally charge?
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues. I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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So long story short I have a 99 f250 xl, 7.3 130k. Overall good truck but has no options, never had AC but would like to add it. I have seen the kits on bought4less. So I'm thinking all the factory parts should be bolt on, since the holes should be all there, and since most of the wiring should be there. I just need to collect all the parts. Also one question I have is, what goes through the firewall. Is it just the lines, or how does the ac get to the vents? Dumb question but don't get that part of it.
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Truck is a e99 f250sd 4x4 7.3 manual trans. The truck started and ran fine to work this morning. Went to leave this afternoon. Hopped in, put key in and tried to start it. Engine just turned over, never started. Thought that it didn't start because I didn't let the plow plugs warm up enough. Turned ignition off, turned back on and let wait to start light to go out. Same thing happened again. Just turned over but wouldn't start. As far as I can tell the fuel pump is running. Felt it vibrating while the ignition was on. What to check.
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