Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 F250 Trailer Parking Lights Not Working
Jul 9, 2017
I installed a new trailer wiring harness onto the back of my 2002 F250 Super Duty with 7.3 diesel engine. Unfortunately, I was 180 degrees off on my wiring. When I hooked up to the camper I blew Fuse #115 (Trailer Tow Battery Charge) as it connected directly to the camper ground wire. I replaced the 20amp fuse and all other fuses were good. Currently, I have all the truck wires to the harness isolated and have power to all of them except for the parking lights. All the lights on the truck work fine.
My truck has a interior fuse panel on the driver's side as well as two small black boxes under the hood, near the brake booster. The under-hood boxes had only relays in them. Two relays in one black box, three in the other. The box with three relays had trailer left turn and right turn relays. which worked fine. The third in that box, apparently, is for the A/C clutch, controlled by fuse #10. The other black box (with two relays), apparently, are for 4WD Shift on the fly, controlled by fuse #111. So, no relay for the parking lights.
Next, I pulled the fuse panel out a little and checked continuity from the end of the parking light wire (brown with white stripe) at the back of the truck to the back of the fuse box and found that it was a good wire with no breaks or shorts to ground, however no voltage is showing at the parking light wire when I turn on the parking lights. The harness at the back of the fuse box has several wires going into it. The parking light wire (brown with white stripe) is in the same harness as the back-up light wire (black with green stripe) and the back-up light does have voltage, when I put it in reverse.
I'm not sure what happens inside of the fuse box, i.e., how does one fuse run a few wires... is there some kind of circuit board? I know the easy way would be to run a vampire connector from the truck parking lights, or maybe the license plate light to power the trailer lights, however, I'm just not built that way.
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I have 2002 F250 7.3 Auto, I recently tried to put my truck in to 4 wheel drive and it is not working. It has WARN manual locking hubs, which I locked. Dash indicator came on and I can hear it click on the transfer case. Yet it isn't driving the front tires. It shouldn't be a vacuum issue considering it had been converted to manual hubs should it?
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Is there a fuse or something to check? All other lights work, just book the running lights
2006 f250 4x4 CC
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luckily about 5 minutes from home my trailer running lights AND the lights on my dump truck body stopped working. i assume they hooked the lights to my dump body to the trailer lights. i was towing an old trailer that has electrical issues so I'm sure that caused it. Under the hood there is a 30 amp fuse #26 that i think is the culprit. (All the other similar fuses are shiny and that one is kinda black). I've never bought fuses like this before, what type is it? it's a big square one. Are they available at auto zone? Does the whole thing pull out and do you need a special tool for it?
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i have a 99 f350 psd, my problem is i don't have normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: dark green; FONT-FAMILY: inherit">parking</NOBR> and instrument lights, it blows fuse number 8 as soon as i turn the switch on. i checked all the wiring on my tail lights and the trailer hookups. i even disconnected the wiring harness going my tail lights and trailer hookups and it still blows the switch. #8 fuse is trailer tow electronic brake, illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil. it also blows #4 fuse which is trailer tow backup lamps, trailer tow park lamps.
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I have an electrical problem and my parking lights will not turn off. I had to pull the fuse in the power distribution box (engine compartment) to get them to turn out.
Pulled the switch in the dash (lights still work) and the switch is good so it appears I'm getting power to the circuit somewhere in the harness? Literally, when I pulled the switch out of the dash and replaced the fuse, my lights came on.
Looking for a schematic for a 1999 F350 SWB 7.3PSD? Perhaps it's a relay gone bad?
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Exactly where the parking lamp trailer tow relay is located on a 2002 F-250 Super Duty 4X4 CC 7.3L?
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2000 F-250 Super Duty
I was replacing my headlights, which required me to splice in their lights to my parking lights, and I seem to have shutdown ALL my parking lights. I did a test after twisting my wires together and everything worked fine. Then I soldered and heat shrunk them and somewhere during that process I lost all the parking lights.
I checked the 8th fuse as per the manual (for Parking Lamps) with a multimeter and it checked out just fine.
Figured it was the time to ask the experts on here where I should go from here. Are there some other fuses I could be missing, or maybe some else I could do?
Solved: Bad fuse in the #8 slot in the Power Distribution Box (under the hood, near Cab, driver's side)...
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I have a 01 f-250 7.3 6 speed. I bought the truck a few days ago and the 4x4 wasn't working the dealer replaced the transfer case motor. I have another 01 f-250 that i have been switching parts out of to see if that makes a differences and found nothing to work. Ive switched the switch on the dash out and nothing. Ive switched the two relays under the hood and nothing. I have also checked all fuses. and the connectors on the transfer case.
So I finally popped the covers off the two relays and squeezed them with my fingers and boom transfer case locked into 4lo and then i can squeezed the other and boom back in 2h! So now I'm lost, I know the wiring from the relays to the transfer case is good and the switch is good and relays are good so I'm at a loss.. Also cruise control isn't working idk if that could be related i don't think it is but idk?
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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I have a 2002 f250 SD v10 4x4. I had a ground wire break fixed that know noon of my instruments work. Dash lights up but nothing moves. Pulse my parking lights stay on when the truck is shut off or when I turn lights on then off. I have to disconnect the battery to get hem to shut off.
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There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
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My 02 F250 periodically has no acccesories like electric windows, radio, and AC do not work for a minute or so. It has been doing this for awhile and seems to be getting more frequent and I am concerned that it might go out on a trip. It runs OK when this is going on and usually happens on the first start on the day. I was thinking maybe the ignition switch?
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2002 Ford F250 super duty 7.3L Diesel Automatic I crank but wont start and run.
Background:
I live in NY, last winter (2013-2014) fuel pump stopped working, I discovered this website, changed my fuel pump although mine worked fine after I did it, Power was not going to my fuel pump, took apart truck to follow wires to find the problem, wires come from the fuel pump into the CPU and Fuse box, relay is built in fuse box, changed fuse box, truck started, from early spring to summer ran without problems, in summer friend ran truck dry without filling up luckily he threw it in neutral and shut off engine rolled it to a stop, Filled up truck after a few tries it starts up. A week later the fuel filter o-ring rips and spews diesel all over engine, changed filter ran for a week and o-ring poped out again, changed to a different o-ring and ran for a month without problems. Then poped again, and again, each time approximately a week later.
Latest winter (2014-2015)
I start my truck to warm up go inside and forgot all about it, about 1.5 hours later I remember my truck is started, go outside to find it shut off with diesel all over the pavement, the o-ring blew again. I changed it, cranked the engine and it started and ran for 10 seconds before stalling. I turned the key a few times to try and have my fuel pump run, and it would crank but not start. Then it started to crank really slow,(batteries were now already on charge) it was below freezing for a good whole week now, found my oil heating plug and waited a day, cranked it the next day, cranked faster but did not start, waited another day and when I tried to start it the starter would not turn.
Today:
So today, winter is almost over(if you lived here you would understand) I find out I blew my starter and changed it, I replaced the o-ring with [ 90025K557Double-Seal X-Profile O-Ring, Oil-Resistant Buna-N, Dash Number 347 ] from Mcmaster.com as suggested on this site. I cranked the engine, It started ran for 30 seconds and stalled. I tried turning the key a couple of times to get fuel going(fuel pump seems to be working), but crank and wont run. My father suggested starter fluid, got couple cans, I was able to start the truck with starter fluid and keep it running until the can ran out.
It wont start and run on its own like it did the first time I tried.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3 with 130,000 miles. The truck was bought new by my father and is completely stock and never run hard. I was driving on the interstate at 70 mph and the cel came on for 30 seconds and went off. Not long after it went off the truck shut off and has not started back. That was around 12-20-16. I have put a new cps, icp, and ipr on it with no luck. All ford parts. I drained the fuel water separator to check the fuel pump and it filled back up. The truck is turning over good but has no white smoke witch leads me to think maybe the IDM. I'm a novice to all of this and until this happened new nothing about any of these parts but I'm learning. I do have the torque app if I should check some things.
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
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2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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I have a 2015 F-250 with the bare essentials. It's built like a work truck but we use it as our everyday vehicle traveling around in Detroit.
That being said, there's a draft down by our legs that we've noticed for some time, but now it's really something I feel could use addressing because it just leaks in cold quite a bit. The draft feels like it's coming in from the front engine compartment/dashboard area.
Is what I'm experiencing common with this kind of truck and is there a fix, or way to stop that draft coming in? I feel this was just one of those things that wasn't really given much consideration as a work truck, similar to the fact there's no cabin air filter, but I'd really like to know if there's a way to somehow reduce the amount of air into the cabin compartment.
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My 2002 f250 starts but has no throttle, I did replace the throttle body, still no luck, i did find a wire on the shiffter that had a bad spot , fixxed it still no throttle, code reader says it passes with no codes, I disconnected both batteries and waited 15 to 20 min, reconnected them, started the truck and let it idle for 20 min so what do i need to do now. I just cant figure it out....
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