Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 F250 - No Power To Reverse Light Sockets
Dec 16, 2016
I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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I have a 02 f250 4x4 7.3l.... I drove it all weekend and no problems. It sat till yesterday I got in it to go to church. It started up and had a little miss was around 60 f. Then the od light started flashing. Not in any code just constant flash. I was parked down in my drive way. It idled fine but acted like it wouldn't take fuel. So looked around and found the hose on the map sensor was broke.
So today I fixed the hose. Checked the oil level and battery connections. Still running weird and flashing od light. I got under the hood and wiggled plugs I unplugged the ice. It revved up then back down and started running smoothly. Got in it and it backed out of the drive way. It ran and drove fine. What I need to know is why??? The ice is a new one from Ford.
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Just bought a 2002 F-250 4x4 Off-Road Crew Cab 7.3L and the airbag light is staying on. I have found out after the fact that the truck has been previously involved in a front end collision. The damage was to the passenger side front. I turn the ignition on, the airbag light will come on solid (just like all the rest, with the exception of the 4x4 and 4x4 low) then go out. Then it flashes slowly 2x then 5x, then goes out for a bit then repeats a few times before staying on. This tells me I am getting a code of 25. I have searched with no luck to narrow this issue down. Everything mechanically works, cruise, horn, etc. The only thing I can find wrong is when I engage the 4-wheel drive (floor shifter) the indicator lights do not illuminate in the instrument cluster. Neither the 4x4 nor the 4x4 low. I am unfamiliar with this truck, so I don't know where to began searching. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I have children in the truck quite often, so I would like to remedy this very quickly.
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I have a 2002 f250 screw. my door ajar light is lit up on the dash. I have tried the wd40 trick, pulled the sensors and bench tested them. What are the codes the instrument cluster test has for each door?
What I am thinking is, if we get a list posted it would be much easier to diagnose the door sensors for others. there should be a open/closed bit for each door. possibly a code for all doors open too. I am curious if there is a code for bad communication on the VSM.
From what I have read, correctly working the doors should read 00 when they are closed. drivers front open=80, pass front open=40 ... My door code does not change no matter what combination of door open/close I use.
Truck is 2002 f250 crew cab ...
My code is C0 ...
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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I own the above described vehicle; I'm at about 196k and I'm the original owner. It's a quad cab, 2002 7.3L with power everything. I believe it's the XLT package (it's not in front of me... I'm at work. CONFIRMED... XLT package).
Currently, it's the workhorse and back-up for the family, not my primary driver - luckily. I've had failure if the automatic door lock on the rear pass. door, and a sticky lock on the rear driver's side lock - they've both been in this state for at least the last four years, no problems beyond the hassle of manual manipulation of the door lock from the inside - otherwise no electrical issues really to speak of.
Three weeks ago, we went to the snow. I rarely use the 4x4, but found that I had to use it that day to get out of some mud - it worked fine, no issues. In addition, I also used the cruise control... something I do rarely, but have not had any issue with it either.
In exiting the area some hours later at the end of our day, I noted two things... the "door ajar" dash light was illuminated and did not shut off through the drive home, and the dome light remained on until the battery saver shutdown shut it down... quite some time (where normally a key in the column turned past the insertion would shut it off).
When I drove home I used the cruise control, as mentioned, and it worked fine.
In exiting the vehicle while at home, as soon as the door was opened the horn started blaring panic alarm style - honk, honk, honk, honk... - and when the batteries are attached, there is nothing that stops the honking, except the battery saver timeout. BTW... no key in the ignition.
I don't use the FOBs... the batteries were dead anyhow (and I moved the FOBs out of range of the vehicle).
Attempted fixes:
- Lubing the lock/WD-40, then shutting/opening the doors (no luck/no change).
- Pulling door panels, removing locking mechanism, removing door ajar switches (I don't know what they're called), manually manipulating the piston AND checking each with a multimeter. (NOTE: One "seemed" not to work properly, so I purchased one from dealer and placed it back... still, no luck resolving the issues overall).
-Checked the wiring looms supplying all four doors - no broken wires noted.
- Replaced the two vehicle batteries.
I'm at a loss and I'm hitting up this forum before I move forward...
I've read that there are issues with the VSM for this year's model, but I'm hesitant to purchase the module without further feedback from a tech. I've read some general posts about alarm systems (doesn't apply to me) and horn issues (but those were horn constantly blaring... not the intermittent horn blasts of a "panic alarm sounding."
I've heard that the GEM and clockspring could be an issue, but I have to look more closely at the associated problems (like recheck to see if the cruise works... door windows go up/down like some threads have mentioned...). I have also read that the door ajar sensor switches attached to the automatic locks could be culprit, as they may "work" when pulled out, but not work when they're installed in the vehicle.
Ultimately, what the cause to the panic horn beeping, dome light and door ajar instrument indicator being on.
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There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
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Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
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2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
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My 02 F250 periodically has no acccesories like electric windows, radio, and AC do not work for a minute or so. It has been doing this for awhile and seems to be getting more frequent and I am concerned that it might go out on a trip. It runs OK when this is going on and usually happens on the first start on the day. I was thinking maybe the ignition switch?
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2002 Ford F250 super duty 7.3L Diesel Automatic I crank but wont start and run.
Background:
I live in NY, last winter (2013-2014) fuel pump stopped working, I discovered this website, changed my fuel pump although mine worked fine after I did it, Power was not going to my fuel pump, took apart truck to follow wires to find the problem, wires come from the fuel pump into the CPU and Fuse box, relay is built in fuse box, changed fuse box, truck started, from early spring to summer ran without problems, in summer friend ran truck dry without filling up luckily he threw it in neutral and shut off engine rolled it to a stop, Filled up truck after a few tries it starts up. A week later the fuel filter o-ring rips and spews diesel all over engine, changed filter ran for a week and o-ring poped out again, changed to a different o-ring and ran for a month without problems. Then poped again, and again, each time approximately a week later.
Latest winter (2014-2015)
I start my truck to warm up go inside and forgot all about it, about 1.5 hours later I remember my truck is started, go outside to find it shut off with diesel all over the pavement, the o-ring blew again. I changed it, cranked the engine and it started and ran for 10 seconds before stalling. I turned the key a few times to try and have my fuel pump run, and it would crank but not start. Then it started to crank really slow,(batteries were now already on charge) it was below freezing for a good whole week now, found my oil heating plug and waited a day, cranked it the next day, cranked faster but did not start, waited another day and when I tried to start it the starter would not turn.
Today:
So today, winter is almost over(if you lived here you would understand) I find out I blew my starter and changed it, I replaced the o-ring with [ 90025K557Double-Seal X-Profile O-Ring, Oil-Resistant Buna-N, Dash Number 347 ] from Mcmaster.com as suggested on this site. I cranked the engine, It started ran for 30 seconds and stalled. I tried turning the key a couple of times to get fuel going(fuel pump seems to be working), but crank and wont run. My father suggested starter fluid, got couple cans, I was able to start the truck with starter fluid and keep it running until the can ran out.
It wont start and run on its own like it did the first time I tried.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3 with 130,000 miles. The truck was bought new by my father and is completely stock and never run hard. I was driving on the interstate at 70 mph and the cel came on for 30 seconds and went off. Not long after it went off the truck shut off and has not started back. That was around 12-20-16. I have put a new cps, icp, and ipr on it with no luck. All ford parts. I drained the fuel water separator to check the fuel pump and it filled back up. The truck is turning over good but has no white smoke witch leads me to think maybe the IDM. I'm a novice to all of this and until this happened new nothing about any of these parts but I'm learning. I do have the torque app if I should check some things.
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My 2002 f250 starts but has no throttle, I did replace the throttle body, still no luck, i did find a wire on the shiffter that had a bad spot , fixxed it still no throttle, code reader says it passes with no codes, I disconnected both batteries and waited 15 to 20 min, reconnected them, started the truck and let it idle for 20 min so what do i need to do now. I just cant figure it out....
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Ran torque for the first time on my f250, I used it for diagnostics to see if i can find out whats causing the surging. At a red light sitting idle it shows my icp at 705psi seems high to me? I'm running a dp tuner, it was set at stock for this run. It starts surging between 35-50mph and when coasting at about 60mph, surges during light throttle or maintaining throttle at low speeds. If i go about 70mph and up it runs like a champ. Ive changed the tps(entire pedal assembly), uvcg connectors, icp and pigtail. No CEL comes on, torque shows ipr is good, working on hpop pid. I just bought the truck last month and haven't been able to enjoy it much since it started doing this. ...
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My f250 is having a stalling issue. It will run fine for about 5-10 minutes and then die out, already replaced CPS, fuel filter, and fuel pump. What else could be the problem?
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my first diesel, and second 2002 f250. I picked up my 7.3 4x4 automatic CCSB last week. 202k on the odometer. I need to change the air filter but idk what to use. I don't think it's stock. The side of the air box says aFe. What the part number for the filter is? I don't see one on the filter anywhere.
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2002 F-250 tries to die when I shift from drive to reverse. Usually first 10-15 minutes after starting. After it has gone a few miles I haven't noticed it. Seems to be getting worse but just really started a few weeks ago. I don't drive it everyday so it has been a while.
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I have a shaking issue only at 40 mph + only while i am braking. I thought warped rotors, but the pedal isn't pulsing and if they are warped, wouldn't it do it every time regardless of the speed??
My second thought was the center support bearing. It had some movement so I replaced it tonight. Now there isn't any movement in the drive line. After a test drive, it hasn't gone completely away. It is still barely there.
I am not sure where to go next.
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I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
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