Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 F250 - Airbag Light Is Staying On / Code 25
Jan 24, 2011
Just bought a 2002 F-250 4x4 Off-Road Crew Cab 7.3L and the airbag light is staying on. I have found out after the fact that the truck has been previously involved in a front end collision. The damage was to the passenger side front. I turn the ignition on, the airbag light will come on solid (just like all the rest, with the exception of the 4x4 and 4x4 low) then go out. Then it flashes slowly 2x then 5x, then goes out for a bit then repeats a few times before staying on. This tells me I am getting a code of 25. I have searched with no luck to narrow this issue down. Everything mechanically works, cruise, horn, etc. The only thing I can find wrong is when I engage the 4-wheel drive (floor shifter) the indicator lights do not illuminate in the instrument cluster. Neither the 4x4 nor the 4x4 low. I am unfamiliar with this truck, so I don't know where to began searching. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I have children in the truck quite often, so I would like to remedy this very quickly.
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About a year ago, my airbag indicator light threw a code 47. It did this for about two days, then it stopped. Fast forward to this weekend, and it started again. From what I can tell, it is the passenger side seat belt pretensioner. It could be a coincidence, but my daughter pulled the seat recline lever without anyone being in the seat, causing it to fly forward as if James Bond was ejecting someone through the windshield. The next time I started my truck, it was throwing the code. I tried to check to see if the plug was knocked loose during the ejection sequence. I thought the connector was under the passenger seat, but I don't see any wiring (the passenger seat is manual). My next guess was behind the glove box, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for.
My truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 Lariat.
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Door ajar light stays on. Lights were staying on until they timed off but after two days they have returned to normal operation. Where the switch is located on the door frame, I can't seem to find it. 2002 ex psd.
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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I have a 02 f250 4x4 7.3l.... I drove it all weekend and no problems. It sat till yesterday I got in it to go to church. It started up and had a little miss was around 60 f. Then the od light started flashing. Not in any code just constant flash. I was parked down in my drive way. It idled fine but acted like it wouldn't take fuel. So looked around and found the hose on the map sensor was broke.
So today I fixed the hose. Checked the oil level and battery connections. Still running weird and flashing od light. I got under the hood and wiggled plugs I unplugged the ice. It revved up then back down and started running smoothly. Got in it and it backed out of the drive way. It ran and drove fine. What I need to know is why??? The ice is a new one from Ford.
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I have a 2002 f250 screw. my door ajar light is lit up on the dash. I have tried the wd40 trick, pulled the sensors and bench tested them. What are the codes the instrument cluster test has for each door?
What I am thinking is, if we get a list posted it would be much easier to diagnose the door sensors for others. there should be a open/closed bit for each door. possibly a code for all doors open too. I am curious if there is a code for bad communication on the VSM.
From what I have read, correctly working the doors should read 00 when they are closed. drivers front open=80, pass front open=40 ... My door code does not change no matter what combination of door open/close I use.
Truck is 2002 f250 crew cab ...
My code is C0 ...
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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I own the above described vehicle; I'm at about 196k and I'm the original owner. It's a quad cab, 2002 7.3L with power everything. I believe it's the XLT package (it's not in front of me... I'm at work. CONFIRMED... XLT package).
Currently, it's the workhorse and back-up for the family, not my primary driver - luckily. I've had failure if the automatic door lock on the rear pass. door, and a sticky lock on the rear driver's side lock - they've both been in this state for at least the last four years, no problems beyond the hassle of manual manipulation of the door lock from the inside - otherwise no electrical issues really to speak of.
Three weeks ago, we went to the snow. I rarely use the 4x4, but found that I had to use it that day to get out of some mud - it worked fine, no issues. In addition, I also used the cruise control... something I do rarely, but have not had any issue with it either.
In exiting the area some hours later at the end of our day, I noted two things... the "door ajar" dash light was illuminated and did not shut off through the drive home, and the dome light remained on until the battery saver shutdown shut it down... quite some time (where normally a key in the column turned past the insertion would shut it off).
When I drove home I used the cruise control, as mentioned, and it worked fine.
In exiting the vehicle while at home, as soon as the door was opened the horn started blaring panic alarm style - honk, honk, honk, honk... - and when the batteries are attached, there is nothing that stops the honking, except the battery saver timeout. BTW... no key in the ignition.
I don't use the FOBs... the batteries were dead anyhow (and I moved the FOBs out of range of the vehicle).
Attempted fixes:
- Lubing the lock/WD-40, then shutting/opening the doors (no luck/no change).
- Pulling door panels, removing locking mechanism, removing door ajar switches (I don't know what they're called), manually manipulating the piston AND checking each with a multimeter. (NOTE: One "seemed" not to work properly, so I purchased one from dealer and placed it back... still, no luck resolving the issues overall).
-Checked the wiring looms supplying all four doors - no broken wires noted.
- Replaced the two vehicle batteries.
I'm at a loss and I'm hitting up this forum before I move forward...
I've read that there are issues with the VSM for this year's model, but I'm hesitant to purchase the module without further feedback from a tech. I've read some general posts about alarm systems (doesn't apply to me) and horn issues (but those were horn constantly blaring... not the intermittent horn blasts of a "panic alarm sounding."
I've heard that the GEM and clockspring could be an issue, but I have to look more closely at the associated problems (like recheck to see if the cruise works... door windows go up/down like some threads have mentioned...). I have also read that the door ajar sensor switches attached to the automatic locks could be culprit, as they may "work" when pulled out, but not work when they're installed in the vehicle.
Ultimately, what the cause to the panic horn beeping, dome light and door ajar instrument indicator being on.
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I have 2003 f250 7.3 automatic 181,000 miles completely stock. Never had chip,tuner or anything on it. I am second owner and got it when it had 70,000 miles on it. Ok here we go I live on top of a mountain and soon as i start up the mountain or any steep hill, or pull or tow something my service engine light pops on. First time it came on I took it to diesel shop they hooked it up to scanner and said it was code p1211 said icp sensor was bad so they put new one on. Couple days later light started popping back on so i decided to order a auto ingenuity after doing some research.
Hooked up to truck started up mountain while scanning at wot light pops on code p1211 and think it was live data I remember seeing icp pressure at 1922 and duty cycle at 63% i was trying to drive and read it at same time and my lap top went dead. What does this reading mean 1922 pressure/ at 63% cycle done little research but dont really understand. Year and half ago replaced all orings on all injectors, new rebuilt hpop pump. New ipr valve, glow plugs, past month 2 different icp sensor new,and new ipr valve new pig tails on both and light still popping on.
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So my red door open light started staying on. Along with all the lights associated with the doors being opened. The lights don't always come on, but the dash lights stays. As a quick fix I just popped the bulbs out and went on my way. Tried lubing the doors. That didn't work. I started noticing it seemed to be related to when I was slowing down or turning.
I thought maybe it's my passenger leaning on the door around the turns. So I inspected all the doors, they latch fine and don't feel like they're open. Last night I was riding by myself, and I realized that it wasn't anyone leaning on the door. When I would slow down, at the same spot. I would hear a click and the lights by the doors would come on, as well as the light on the back of the cab over the bed.
It did it every time the whole way home. It was approx. 16-18 mph when it would click. It was the same spot each time but I couldn't really nail the exact speed and watch for deer. I originally thought I'd just replace the sensors in the doors, but idk if that'll work anymore since it seems to be affected by other factors.
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Had a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
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Came on other day. No ses light or fault codes. What it means?
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Just recently started getting what started as an intermittent air bag light that is now on constant. I seem to be getting a code 33.
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Every time I start the truck, the Passenger Side Airbag light is on, which is saying the airbag is turned "OFF." I have to push the button to turn the light off, which turns the airbag "ON." How do I reset this to where the airbag is "ON" until I turn it "OFF?"
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Airbag light flashes on dash and then stays on. Cruise control and horn wont work. I cant find a blown fuse.
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
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My 02 F250 periodically has no acccesories like electric windows, radio, and AC do not work for a minute or so. It has been doing this for awhile and seems to be getting more frequent and I am concerned that it might go out on a trip. It runs OK when this is going on and usually happens on the first start on the day. I was thinking maybe the ignition switch?
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2002 Ford F250 super duty 7.3L Diesel Automatic I crank but wont start and run.
Background:
I live in NY, last winter (2013-2014) fuel pump stopped working, I discovered this website, changed my fuel pump although mine worked fine after I did it, Power was not going to my fuel pump, took apart truck to follow wires to find the problem, wires come from the fuel pump into the CPU and Fuse box, relay is built in fuse box, changed fuse box, truck started, from early spring to summer ran without problems, in summer friend ran truck dry without filling up luckily he threw it in neutral and shut off engine rolled it to a stop, Filled up truck after a few tries it starts up. A week later the fuel filter o-ring rips and spews diesel all over engine, changed filter ran for a week and o-ring poped out again, changed to a different o-ring and ran for a month without problems. Then poped again, and again, each time approximately a week later.
Latest winter (2014-2015)
I start my truck to warm up go inside and forgot all about it, about 1.5 hours later I remember my truck is started, go outside to find it shut off with diesel all over the pavement, the o-ring blew again. I changed it, cranked the engine and it started and ran for 10 seconds before stalling. I turned the key a few times to try and have my fuel pump run, and it would crank but not start. Then it started to crank really slow,(batteries were now already on charge) it was below freezing for a good whole week now, found my oil heating plug and waited a day, cranked it the next day, cranked faster but did not start, waited another day and when I tried to start it the starter would not turn.
Today:
So today, winter is almost over(if you lived here you would understand) I find out I blew my starter and changed it, I replaced the o-ring with [ 90025K557Double-Seal X-Profile O-Ring, Oil-Resistant Buna-N, Dash Number 347 ] from Mcmaster.com as suggested on this site. I cranked the engine, It started ran for 30 seconds and stalled. I tried turning the key a couple of times to get fuel going(fuel pump seems to be working), but crank and wont run. My father suggested starter fluid, got couple cans, I was able to start the truck with starter fluid and keep it running until the can ran out.
It wont start and run on its own like it did the first time I tried.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3 with 130,000 miles. The truck was bought new by my father and is completely stock and never run hard. I was driving on the interstate at 70 mph and the cel came on for 30 seconds and went off. Not long after it went off the truck shut off and has not started back. That was around 12-20-16. I have put a new cps, icp, and ipr on it with no luck. All ford parts. I drained the fuel water separator to check the fuel pump and it filled back up. The truck is turning over good but has no white smoke witch leads me to think maybe the IDM. I'm a novice to all of this and until this happened new nothing about any of these parts but I'm learning. I do have the torque app if I should check some things.
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Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
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