Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Engine Light On - Transmission Not Working?
Jun 5, 2016
so got to work today, truck engine light comes on all foward motion stops. Just coasts and idles along. I have 280k on the orig stock trans. I also have dp tuner and did the valve body upgrade along with adding the 6.0 cooler hoping to extend the life of the trans. Reverse works. So i asume I am needinf a new trans. My options are Ford HDr4100 orig 4100, Or BTS built trans. I also pull a toy hauler as well. My question is If I order the BTS can I have a my local shop install it or does it need to be programmed at the dealer. If I get the HD from ford installed will I have to remove the dp tuner chip to get it programmed and also will i need another new valve body replacement.
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I have a 02 f350 4x4 6 SPD one of my transmission lines has went bad is there anywhere that sales them.
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2002 F350 7.3 PSD. 192k miles.
From my understanding, a CEL is supposed to illuminate each time you turn the ignition ON as part of normal startup procedure.
I figured the previous owner must have pulled out the bulb to hide the fact that the truck had a few "issues" before selling it, so today I pulled out the gauge cluster and it looked as if the CEL bulb was a tiny LED soldered directly into the gauge cluster itself. There were a few serviceable/removable bulbs for things like turn signal indicators, high-beam etc... but the CEL did not have a serviceable/removable bulb.
I've been driving this truck and working through it's "issues" and fixing things as I go, but it keeps throwing codes without the CEL illuminating. What's going on here?
I thought the check-engine-light was supposed to illuminate each time the ignition was turned on, and that it would come on each and every time the vehicle registered a fault code in the ECU/PCM.
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Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
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I had a leak coming from the top of the transmission. The antifreeze appears to be getting into the transmission because when I pull the stick it's a chocolate/white fluid and both the antifreeze and the transmission fluid are new. So, I am talking to two transmission places, trying to decide which one to go with and what to ask them to install because it seems I have different choices depending on what I want the truck to do. I will be using it to haul dirt and farm items, pull a 20 ft cargo hauler, maybe a rv some day.
The transmission guys are throwing all kinds of lingo out there I don't understand. and the price is anywhere from 2500 to 5000 for the tranny. Also they tell me what is included and what is to be changed out but I don't know if it's "everything". One guy said that the "John Woods" brand of tranny is what I want. Also I think my stock engine is fine. A cylinder contribution test shows only one with an issue and it seems to rev fine. The glow plugs need to be replaced I think. Where I'm getting here is if later I have to replace/rebuild the engine should I get a bigger tranny now?
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2002 F 350 7.3 4x4
Aftermarket gauge will climb to 250 after around town driving of an hour or so or multiple trips within the hour. Not towing. 160,000 miles on odometer. Changed trans fluid at 40,000 mile intervals. Most recently about 1500 miles ago. Most recent change using Mark K's method. Was getting fluid from rear port when I changed fluid. Blew out oil cooler and there did not seem to be a blockage as flow was sufficient.
Still overheating according to autometer trans gauge in test port. No codes retrieved using auto-ingenuity also O/ D light is not flashing. Would like to run torque converter slip test using AE according to wooden things method but TC slip desired and transmission gear ratio is not available under that name in live data meter. AE just updated to most recent version.
I purchased a new tranny oil bypass and will install soon. Also purchased a new 6.0 cooler to replace stocker but am hesitant to install if tranny is failing because I am concerned that the new cooler will just get some blockage from a potentially failing transmission and I will be buying a new cooler along with a BTS rebuild.
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My transmission on my 2002 7.3 4x4 is pouring fluid from somewhere above the rear of the pan. I thought it was the pan at first. I pulled it off and replaced the filter. After adding fluid while it was running for 4 or 5 minutes it started pouring again. It's not the pan. It's coming from above the pan somewhere. It won't leak unless it's running. Is there a place it can leak on top??
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I have a mostly stock '02 F-250.
The other day I parked the truck and as I was walking away I could hear what sounded like the 4x4 clicking on and off. I wasn't sure. I figured I would continue to run the truck to get more symptoms and come up with a diagnosis.
Later, backing out of the driveway, I heard what sounded like a buzzing/grinding noise, like something was trying to engage. It quickly went away.
The next day, the 4x4 light came on as I merged onto the interstate. I pulled over, tried switching the ESOF switch to get it to turn off. I never heard 4x4 engage or "felt" it. Re-starting the truck got the light to turn off. It hasn't been on since.
Today the truck made more buzzing/grinding noises. When I tried turning on 4 high with the ESOF switch I got no response. It went into 4 low and the light came on.
I re-started the truck. Tried putting it into 4 high again and the light came on. When I put it into 4 low the light quit and wouldn't come back on.
I run with my hubs unlocked and they were unlocked at the time, FYI. Also, I have air coming out of the vents, so no vacuum issues. I actually disconnected the 4x4 vacuum lines because I don't use the automatic locking future anyways.
I did do some work with my truck and boat during the flood in Louisiana and I took her through really sketchy stuff. My guess is that the ESOF motor is shot, most likely from being submerged.
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I have an 02 F350 7.3 ... I just installed my glowshift tripple gauge pillar set. I have an EGT, Boost and fuel pressure gauge ... I followed all the constructions on installing them. The boost is working just fine and the EGT was too, but after a while the needle started going back and forth and the red warning light what blinking and then it just sat at 0 with the warning light on and stay that way. My fuel pressure gauge is connected to a sensore i put in my fuel filter housing, my fuel pressure gayge right from the start stayed at 30 psi with the red warning light on and just stays there .... Also the buttons to change the color and set the peak on the EGT gauge are sticking for some reason and staying down and aren't letting me change the color ...
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I have 2002 F250 7.3 Auto, I recently tried to put my truck in to 4 wheel drive and it is not working. It has WARN manual locking hubs, which I locked. Dash indicator came on and I can hear it click on the transfer case. Yet it isn't driving the front tires. It shouldn't be a vacuum issue considering it had been converted to manual hubs should it?
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I have stock 02 F350 7.3 with 74,000 miles ... Today i looked down and noticed my RPM gauge sitting there at 0 ... It was working just fine yesterday. I figured before i go digging around looking for the issue id see what is causing it not to read ..
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I installed a new trailer wiring harness onto the back of my 2002 F250 Super Duty with 7.3 diesel engine. Unfortunately, I was 180 degrees off on my wiring. When I hooked up to the camper I blew Fuse #115 (Trailer Tow Battery Charge) as it connected directly to the camper ground wire. I replaced the 20amp fuse and all other fuses were good. Currently, I have all the truck wires to the harness isolated and have power to all of them except for the parking lights. All the lights on the truck work fine.
My truck has a interior fuse panel on the driver's side as well as two small black boxes under the hood, near the brake booster. The under-hood boxes had only relays in them. Two relays in one black box, three in the other. The box with three relays had trailer left turn and right turn relays. which worked fine. The third in that box, apparently, is for the A/C clutch, controlled by fuse #10. The other black box (with two relays), apparently, are for 4WD Shift on the fly, controlled by fuse #111. So, no relay for the parking lights.
Next, I pulled the fuse panel out a little and checked continuity from the end of the parking light wire (brown with white stripe) at the back of the truck to the back of the fuse box and found that it was a good wire with no breaks or shorts to ground, however no voltage is showing at the parking light wire when I turn on the parking lights. The harness at the back of the fuse box has several wires going into it. The parking light wire (brown with white stripe) is in the same harness as the back-up light wire (black with green stripe) and the back-up light does have voltage, when I put it in reverse.
I'm not sure what happens inside of the fuse box, i.e., how does one fuse run a few wires... is there some kind of circuit board? I know the easy way would be to run a vampire connector from the truck parking lights, or maybe the license plate light to power the trailer lights, however, I'm just not built that way.
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I have a 02 PSD, and sometimes after I start it up my radio and power windows do not work. I have a red "security" light on my Kenwood radio that turns on when the truck is off. That light keeps flashing after I turned on the truck so I know it's still getting power, but for some reason it thinks the truck is off, and the windows don't go down. Other days it works perfectly fine, sometimes the radio and windows will stop working after driving normal.
At first it was a routine where I knew they'd start working shortly. But today was the last straw, I drove into work with no radio and windows not rolling down for 30 miles. Of course after I park, I turn off the truck, turn it back on and everything comes on like nothing ever happened. What can be causing this, I have checked all the wiring, no kinks, cuts, nothing. I remember reading something about a relay that can cause this but can't find that info.
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I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
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Picked up my truck from the local transmission shop yesterday and on the way home (less than 3 miles away), I noticed the ABS light was on. I turned around back to the shop but the guy behind the desk couldn't pull the codes (his mechanics smart with codes don't work Saturday). So I will head back tomorrow when his code-smart dude is back but was wondering is there anything they could have done during the tranny install to muck up the ABS system? Or do they need to do something because of the new transmission?
I checked the #15 5-amp fuse under the steering wheel but it looks good. Truck runs good to me and shifts fine in the 10 or so miles I drove it yesterday but I'm not savvy with transmissions or ABS.
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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A few weeks ago i lost the speedometer and the abs light came on. 6 hours later when i got home I tried diagnosing it, but everything worked. Yesterday, the same thing. No speedo or odometer, abs light is on, and the OD off light is flashing. But the trans still works fine, going through all 5 gears and torque converter lockup. plus, pushing tho OD button turn OD off, hit it again and OD engages again. (the truck has a 5 speed allison trans in it) i put the scanner on it and got No response from module for the ABS module, the GEM/central timer, and Hybrid electronic cluster. There are no trouble codes, but it did show P0500 vehicle speed sensor A this afternoon on the way home, the speedometer and odometer came on and worked for .4 miles, then went out again. Where I should start?
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So I posted a while back about fixing all the leaks I had and what I was going to do. I finally completed all the repairs and reinstalled the engine and it won't start. Cranked a bunch and checked oil level in hpop its good so I pulled plugs in oil rails there is oil present there, cracked the yellow valve on fuel bowel there is fuel there. unplugged the icp sensor and cranked more still no indication of wanting to start.
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I have been battling and issue with my 02 7.3 just shutting down on my at random times.
1st Time
Outside Temp: 100
Drove 5miles sitting at in idle in bimart parking lot truck shut down
Let sit overnight, went back started right up
2nd Time
Outside Temp: 100
Driving home sitting in traffic slow moving 5mph, truck shut down
Able to start up about 5mins later
3rd Time
Replaced CPS, Air filter, Fuel Filter
Outside Temp: 80
Hauling travel trailer up peak 35-45mph shut down
Allowed truck to sit 35-45mins started back up
Started hauling made it about half mile shut down
Got towed to flat land to unload trailer and haul the rest of the way
Returned to truck
Started right up 45mins later, drove it 30miles home without a problem
I am at a loss i keep reading and seeing HPOP, tin nut, IPR, EBR..
The last post I read was about the IPR : [URL] .....
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Speedometer not working and O/D light blinks, I have a 450 and a 250, 99 and 2000. On 450 this is an intermiting problem. Stop truck turn ignition off, restart and it all works now. Just started on my 250 and stopping and turning ignition off cures the problems for a few seconds, after i get moving the speedometer doesnt work and then light starts blinking again O/D light. Where do I need to start?
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