I have a 2002 excursion 7.3L. It has started dying lately after I let off of the pedal and the vehicle slows down and the engine is supposed to go to idle but sometimes it dies. It will start back up right away. It has begun to start a little rougher especially after it dies. I have replace the CPS and I got new batteries.
View 14 RepliesI finally got my 02 F350 running again after replacing the Fried PCM, but during some additional shop prep work, I discovered that the engine dies when you use the horn button, it will start right up afterwards so no permanent damage, but, Where to start? I have Forscan and a cable so I can get into the PCM but I need to know where to look or what PIDS I should be watching during troubleshooting.
View 6 RepliesI now have a 2002, 7.3, 250, 4x4 and love it. Everything but the milege. All in all it's a great ride. I have one little problem that's driven me nuts.
The power windows and the radio go out occasionally. Both at the same time. They come back on...... sometimes. Sometimes it takes a day or two. I've checked the fuses and then saw that there is a breaker in the 601 location in the fuse box that's probably causing the problem.
But I thought that it was supposed to shut off to protect that circuit when there is a short somewhere. I don't know where to go or how to locate the short if in fact this is my problem.
So a few weeks back, i went to the store after work, came out and my truck just cranked and cranked but wouldn't turn over. I simply turned the key off and back on, waited for the WTS light to go out and she started up. I just blew it off, thinking i didn't wait long enough to start it.
Then, later that week i come out of a restaurant and it cranks and cranks but doesn't start. i tried turning the key off and on, waiting 30 seconds between em and still nothing. Then a few minutes later, i try again and she fires up, no problems and runs like a champ.
Well 2 fridays ago, I go out with some buddies, go to leave and it happens again. Cranks and cranks, but not starting. I got a ride to my place, grabbed a fuel filter, thinking maybe its clogged, it's been awhile since i changed it. I got back to my truck, and it started up fine, without changing the filter.
Then last night as i am out of town, 10 hours away from home it happens again. And i kept trying and trying and trying but it never wanted to start. I was about to submit my payment for the Uber back to my hotel when i decide to try it again and it fired right up.
Now I'm kind of afraid to drive anywhere and shut off my truck in fear of being stranded. What could be causing this? I've looked every where and havent found someone with the exact same problem, usually when i find a thread on turning over but not starting, the truck dies once it runs as well. Mine doesn't. when it starts, she runs great.
No smoke coming out the tail pipe when cranking.
WTS light comes on and off as it should.
Tach does not move, and it won't because it's a 2002.
Where to start, would the CPS cause it to act this way? It only seems to do it when the engine is warm.
Ok, so my 2002 f250 died on me last Tuesday out of the blue, pulled it home and found fuse 23 I think ECU power was blown. I removed my Hydra, and put a new fuse in it and all seemed well, then Friday evening on my way to dinner was driving along and truck shuts off like someone turned the key off. I replace the Crank sensor, even though I had put a new one in after the first time it died, which was last Tuesday, still would not start.
Pulled it home, went out Saturday morning to look at it and hit the key and it fired right off. At this point I don't really know where to look, I wiggled every wire I could find while it was running Saturday and no change, but it does seem to have a miss in it while it is idling...... I am not sure where to start looking....
I have a 02 PSD, and sometimes after I start it up my radio and power windows do not work. I have a red "security" light on my Kenwood radio that turns on when the truck is off. That light keeps flashing after I turned on the truck so I know it's still getting power, but for some reason it thinks the truck is off, and the windows don't go down. Other days it works perfectly fine, sometimes the radio and windows will stop working after driving normal.
At first it was a routine where I knew they'd start working shortly. But today was the last straw, I drove into work with no radio and windows not rolling down for 30 miles. Of course after I park, I turn off the truck, turn it back on and everything comes on like nothing ever happened. What can be causing this, I have checked all the wiring, no kinks, cuts, nothing. I remember reading something about a relay that can cause this but can't find that info.
About 4-5 weeks ago my 2002 F-250 7.3 just died with no warning after coming off the highway and since then it hesitates/dies when hitting a bump or while applying pedal with the A/C on. The code that keeps popping up is the P0344 "CPS" and the code for back pressure sensor... I have replaced the CPS twice "making sure the 1st one was not bad", the back pressure sensor and the tube the goes the manifold, and fuel filter and still having problems... I didn't know if there could be a fuel pump issue or something else?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 ford excursion. I know they have cali emissions. It runs fine then suddenly dies while driving. We've replaced the glow plug switch and relay. Neither one fixed the problem. we washed the motor a while back and it fried the programmer wiring.
View 7 RepliesMy truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
My truck was shuddering in od. So as I last effort thinking it might be injectors I pulled all of them and replaced all of the orings and valve cover harnesses. After all of this was done seemed to do nothing at all. Now a new problem has surfaced. It's having idle problems. It will now idle at 780-850 instead of 650-700rmps. Also on deceleration it will miss pretty bad. Checked all of my injectors again all connections are good and all of the injectors are tight. Not burning any oil. So I unplugged the icp and bam runs like a top perfect running engine. So I bought a new one and plugged it in and itake doing the same thing. So what is going on! Also it was throwing a random check engine light but wouldn't bring a code up I'm completely lost....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
2000 F250 7.3L ZF 6spd 4x4 regular cab long bed 253k
DP F6 chip, 4" exhaust, WW2, EBV delete
I run 5w40 Rotella Synthetic. Oil was changed about 1,000 miles ago. I also added a quart of Hot Shot stiction eliminator. I use Power Service and Stanadyne lubricity in every tank. Fuel filter is new.(motorcraft)
For a month or so its been acting weird. I get a stumble/miss/stutter, at random, but mostly under hard acceleration and high rpm (specifically approx 2500-2800rpm). It will also do it on decel when I lift after accellerating . Recently, I noticed it is also idling roughly. The engine is shaking and it feels like a miss. When it does its "thing" it sounds like a single "knock". Occassionally, it sort of sounds like an injector "buzzing". I've been using the "stock" tune for the last few weeks, to minimize any chance of engine damage, as I have to drive it. Turning up the chip makes the problems more noticeable and happen at a lower rpm. The truck has plenty of power, and pulls hard, except for the "stutter". If I hold my foot in it to "push through" the initial stumble at 2500 or so, it will keep going a few hundred more rpm, and then really start bucking.
There are no meaningful codes. I DO have:
EBV related soft codes - makes sense since its deleted.
Overboost related codes- from turning the chip up - won't happen in stock setting
A soft code for the back pressure SENSOR. I have a new one and will be cleaning the tube when I get a chance. I unplugged the sensor and it made no difference in the miss issue.
I have recently done the following in pursuit of a solution to all this:
New IPR (autozone) valve and pigtail
New ICP (motorcraft) and pigtail ( sensor had oil in it)
New CMP and pigtail. (2 actually. First a standard pc139 for the obs, and currently a Napa echlin correct for '00) No change. Although it initially had the dreaded Ford small head light grey sensor and failed cct for #3 & 8. After the cps change, it passed cct.
Accellerator Pedal Position Sensor. It would not read any higher then 3.95v at wot, and only 0.50v at idle, so I installed a new one. After adjusting it a little, I have 0.76v at idle, and 4.02 at wot. Didn't affect the stumble issue, but it seemed to greatly improve/eliminate my parking lot speed "bucking".
I just did the UVCH's. The passenger side was pretty much unplugged. But they all looked good. No burnt, melted,or chafed wires anywhere. I probably could have just plugged it back in, but I changed both sides with new Motorcraft parts anyway. I did the gaskets and the uvch, but not the engine side harness/pigtail, as they looked ok. I also did the 0.50 mod as a preventative measure. After seeing the unplugged harness, I really thought this would be the end of the problem, but its not. Very frustrated.
As a side note, I was surprised to see that I have 8 AD injectors, and not an AE in cyl 8.
I have an old outdated snapon scanner. Its only good up to '99, but I am able to scan my 2000 as a '99. I think I'm missing some pids though.
I can do cct and buzz test, but no PERDEL readings.
As far as ICP, it idles at about 450psi, at approx 12% IPR dc. On a brief 2nd gear wot run, it will hit (and hold as long as I have road to stay in it) a little over 2900psi, at 41-42% IPR duty cycle. I did notice, during these near instantaneous stumble events, ICP would flutter on the scanner about 75-100psi. Its almost too quick to even see it.
I have a 2000 7.3 f450 having some electrical issues. When you turn the key on sometimes the dash will start ticking and left side light flashing...engine will turn over but it won't start. The ticking is coming from under the hood relay 32 (you can hear and feel it clicking). Book says its injector driver module power relay. A lot of the times it will start fine other times it will be running and just die (prob because of this issue) happened once when I was driving.
What to check here already replaced the relay still have the problem.
So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
I have been battling and issue with my 02 7.3 just shutting down on my at random times.
1st Time
Outside Temp: 100
Drove 5miles sitting at in idle in bimart parking lot truck shut down
Let sit overnight, went back started right up
2nd Time
Outside Temp: 100
Driving home sitting in traffic slow moving 5mph, truck shut down
Able to start up about 5mins later
3rd Time
Replaced CPS, Air filter, Fuel Filter
Outside Temp: 80
Hauling travel trailer up peak 35-45mph shut down
Allowed truck to sit 35-45mins started back up
Started hauling made it about half mile shut down
Got towed to flat land to unload trailer and haul the rest of the way
Returned to truck
Started right up 45mins later, drove it 30miles home without a problem
I am at a loss i keep reading and seeing HPOP, tin nut, IPR, EBR..
The last post I read was about the IPR : [URL] .....
My VIN inside the door is scratched enough that the State can't verify it. They need two locations to match the VIN otherwise the vehicle must be scheduled for a "level 3" vin inspection hundreds of miles away. Well I tried to find one on the engine where the DMV can do a "level 2" vin inspection but I can't find it. Where other vin's are on my 2002 Ford 450. Mine is a flat bed.
View 4 RepliesMoving my worldly goods from California to Oklahoma in a rented 26' box truck with my wife following in our '02 F350 loaded to the gills with my lathe, mill, air compressor, weld and assorted machinery. Just west of Deming NM it started to blow lots of white smoke and down on power. Some rattling noises from the engine when throttled up & won't reach 3000RPM.
Had it towed to an impound yard for storage. Plan on sending a flat bed to pick it up when we get to Tulsa.
Any experience with a tilt back trailer capable of loading & transporting this truck that weighs around 17,000 pounds? My plan is to continue on to Tulsa & make arrangements from there.
so got to work today, truck engine light comes on all foward motion stops. Just coasts and idles along. I have 280k on the orig stock trans. I also have dp tuner and did the valve body upgrade along with adding the 6.0 cooler hoping to extend the life of the trans. Reverse works. So i asume I am needinf a new trans. My options are Ford HDr4100 orig 4100, Or BTS built trans. I also pull a toy hauler as well. My question is If I order the BTS can I have a my local shop install it or does it need to be programmed at the dealer. If I get the HD from ford installed will I have to remove the dp tuner chip to get it programmed and also will i need another new valve body replacement.
View 14 Replies02 7.3L SD Im on a long haul and think I might have bought some bad diesel. It is shuddering a little kind of like a miss. It started right after I stopped for fuel. Is this going to damage my engine to keep plugging along? Is it just going to run kind of rough until I burn up the bad fuel? Ive got about 200mi to go so just needed to know if its safe to keep driving or am I going to be stranded.
View 13 RepliesI know there are a few threads floating around regarding truck dieing, but mine is slightly different than the others, maybe its the same culprit, maybe not, but i thought i would start a new thread just in case.
First, I commute about 50 miles to work everyday, truck gets plenty of interstate highway run time, smooth as silk. About a month and half ago when i almost got to work I slowed to stop at a red light. As I came to a stop the truck "stumbled". Acted like it wanted to die but caught itself and kept going. I said whooaaaa girl, what this? Ive had this truck for almost 10 yrs now and never anything like this. About a week or so later, same commute, same red light, cept this time it dies. Starts right back up no problem. Just acted like someone turned the key off.
Then a week or so after that, while driving home this time, as I pulled up at the house to check the mail at the mailbox, when i came to a stop it died. Cranked right back up. Before I could put in drive, it died again. Cranked right back up and i drove on into the driveway. Then a few days later, while checking the mail again, it died again. Cranked up immediately and parked.
Today, while driving home, after i had gotten back to town, but before i got home i made a stop at bank drive thru, when i came to a stop, it died. While cranking it wanted to start and kind of stumbled on itself and died. Then it cranked right up and i came on home no problem.
So far it only occurs after approx 45min to 1 hr of operating time so the engine and everything else are at temp and far from cold. After reading thru some of the other threads of similar but different conditions (cold start dieing, dieing while under power, etc) Im getting flooded with ideas of what could cause it, but not settled on any.
1.Could be failing ICP? (original, has never been changed, 317k+).
2.Could be plugged fuel filters? (been a while since changing, approx 30k+)
3.Could related to one of my own earlier threads regarding possible failing alternator (when rpms drop can volts drop enough to kill engine?)
4.Could be loose ignition switch? (about 2 yrs ago i had to swap the blinker switch, to get to it had to remove the ignition. Upon re-installation the switch never did get tight as before and was loose. Been loose ever since. To the point that with key out of ignition and door ajar i will get the door chime as if the key was in ignition. I can bump the ignition, and chime goes away. Been this way for two years and no apparent problems. Until now maybe?)
I was thinking ICP after a few of the other threads, but after tonight Im leaning towards the ignition switch. I guess i can try to wiggle the switch after cranking tomorrow and see what that does for a trouble shooting effort. Is there a way to trouble shoot the ICP to see if its failing or not? Isn't that a fairly costly sensor? Would hate to buy one and not be the cause, but after 317k i may need to buy before too long anyway.
Changed CPS,EBPV sensor and tube,replaced IPR&fuel pressure regulator,batteries 100%,HPOP full,oil level full,fuel in bowl and lift pump runs(have not tested pressure but has good flow).After replacing IPR truck started quickly and idled for 15 minutes,decided to try a test drive ,truck stalled after reversing 10 ft as I shifted into first gear.Now no start!!Losing my mind.
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