Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Blue Smoke On Cold Morning Start Ups
Mar 3, 2016
Got a 2002 7.3 F-350 with 300,000 miles and for the last couple of years I've been getting blue smoke on cold morning start ups and its been gradually getting worse, it clears up after about 30 seconds and all is normal,No loss of performance, Oil consumption is minor, however I hate a vehicle that blue smokes, I'm guessing my issue is valve seals are worn, I was wondering if it is possible to replace the seals while the heads are on the engine? and was also wondering how much time it would take to fix? as i would have to have it professionally done. I know its hard to guess a time frame and everyone is different. Sounds like textbook valve seals to me but is there anything else I should check first?
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
Recently since the weather has been cold. between 0-30 degrees or so. My 2002 7.3 with 161k on it is smoking a decent amount i think. far more than i ever remember it smoking thats for sure! anyways its a combination of blue and white smoke and it doesnt last long when the truck starts maybe 1 minute and the smoke stops.
But I also notice when i rev the truck maybe around 1200 rpms the engine shakes very bad. so i was thinking maybe a glow plug went bad making the engine seem like its missing. but even when its warm i rev it up to 1200 and i still feel the engine shake slightly. Maybe im just being picky when its warm? I need to test the glow plugs and go from there but i want opinions about that issue. the truck sits for 4 hour periods and every time i start it i have smoke. I will pay attention tomorrow morning if it smokes after being plugged in all night and post my findings.
My other issue and this typically happens when its below 20. sometimes i will go to accelerate after coming to a complete stop and the truck kinda has a very weak rev to it then just takes off like the tps took a break on me. sometimes i have had it jerk the truck when the throttle catches and other times it creeps at first then takes off like a boost of power.
lastly and this little issue happens most noticeable at 35 mph. i feel a surging im thinking this is related to the tps but i put the truck on cruise control and i still feel the surging. maybe this ties into my second issue? bad TC? ive plugged in my scanner and the only thing jumping out at me is the icp hunts about 100 psi or more at idle. i plan on doing a WOT test on the HPOP, ICP and IPR tomorrow and see if maybe this is just a weak hpop causing my issues.
Repairs i have done:
new 8th injector and all new injector seals about 25k miles ago.
new ipr
new icp
have CCV mod done and 4 inch turbo back exhaust
new map sensor
cleaned out the EBP sensor and tube but that was probably 40 or 50k ago now.
gray cps and i cant remember when i put that on.
gutted the EBPV
bellowed up pipes
no tunes the truck is factory as far as that goes.
View 11 Replies
I have a 07 6.0 powerstroke, I had 2 bad injectors so I replaced all of them with reman's. I had a problem with them coming loose. the first time this happened it hydrolocked the motor, number 8 cylinder. so I pulled all the injectors and replaced all the seals and washers and torqued them down a little more than spec like 27 lbs. it runs great and starts great even at 25 degrees but I noticed this morning that when starting it up after it sits (cold) it blows blueish smoke until late it warms up and I accelerate. is this normal? should I check fuel filters? oil in fuel?
View 14 Replies
Ok, I have owned my truck for almost a year and it has 151,000 miles. I have noticed on a few occasions puffs of blue smoke and especially at night in the headlights behind me I notice a lot of smoke when I'm getting into the throttle hard. Under normal driving conditions I don't usually see anything.
Today I noticed it when I was backing my camper(8000lbs) up a small hill onto the side of my garage. It was puffing blue pretty good going up the hill while it was under load.
I have no check engine light on, the truck seems to be running fine. My oil consumption is about 2 quarts every 3-4000 miles. I tried the blow by test with the oil cap but besides some smoke out the filler neck no problems... I don't know very much about diesels so for me to try and trouble shoot this is a problem.
View 9 Replies
01 7.3 247k.
Yesterday went to get on the freeway I looked back and saw a cloud of what looked like blue smoke. I'm in northern Utah and it's cold but the truck runs fine, I haven't noticed any change in performance. Turbo still builds boost. I pulled the fuel filter cap last night to check fuel color and it was clean.
I do have the CCV mod done. I also pulled to IC Pipe off the turbo and there was a little oil in there but not much, should there be any at all with the CCV mod? Where to start.
View 14 Replies
2000 F350 with 340000 on it, have had it for the last 140000. It's an old service truck from south west gas with one owner in between them and me and he put about 5000 on it. I have the big cylinder open air filter, billet compressor wheel, 4" exhaust all the way and an Edge tuner. Don't have any codes I can pull with the tuner. Have been good to me so fare only need regular maintenance, but always had smoke out oil filler with a little pulse.
2500 ago I changed oil and add 1/4 of Lucas oil. 3 days ago when I started in the morning it smoked white smoke out the exhaust as a steam train and idle rough, but cleared up as I went down the street and will do so every time I start cold or warm. Ok, might need new GP, did that yesterday yet the same. Now I start checking stuff and have smoke out the oil filler as a steam train so the cap won't stay.
I know it sound like alot of problems, just try to verify some of them. The smoke out oil filler is blow by? The smoke on start up is that related to bad injectors? Can a bad injector dumping fuel create the blow by? Coolant level ok Transmission fluid level ok Engine oil Rotella T6 added 3 quarter in 2500 miles. I do not have a scanner or any other advance test tools.
View 9 Replies
When it is cold out side like 20 degrees I'm having problems starting my 2000 7.3 I'm cycling it about 5 times and misses smokes white for a bit then stays running I was thinking of changing out the fuel filter. What it could be?
View 6 Replies
Early 99 7.3. Runs ok has a slight miss at idle however every injector when unhooked makes a change. Has white and blue smoke From the exhaust. Has enough blow by to blow the oil cap off as your unscrewing it. My question is, I know engine restore is bad for these trucks but I can't afford to rebuild the engine. If I run the restore and then clean the IRP once the truck dies is this going to mess anything else up. Do you think it will by me a few months to save up for a rebuild
View 9 Replies
my 2002 7.3 with 370k just started to puff a small cloud of white smoke on start up. i realize this is normal during cold months but it is currently 102* in Texas. it will do it on the first start up of the day or if i start it immediately after shutting it off at full operating temps and when i do get a smell of the white cloud it has a oil smell but this only lasts while the cloud is dispersing all of that only lasts about 2-3 seconds no loss of power good boost pressure when driving no rough idle at all nothing acting any different other than the cloud and the quick smell of oil...
View 14 Replies
My beloved excursion is 300 miles away from me in a no start condition. Vehicle has 270K miles. Very well cared for. No issues to date since purchase 5 years ago. Went to back up and the vehicle starting Caming like it had a big cam in it. went from reverse to drive and problem went away. Drove vehicle for 2 more weeks without issue. Then all of a sudden it dies. Restart driver on down the road 1/4 mile, dies again. Restart, make 45 mile drive home vehicle is low on power will hardly pull a grade but I got to my friends house. Went to start vehicle next day and no start. Puff white smoke while trying to start. It hits every once in awhile but wont run.
The vehicle is throwing NO CODES other than an open glow plug on 1&8 which it has for sometime now. I have changed, fuel filter, fuel pump, CPS(genuine ford), IPR and IPS. No real changes still wont start. I disconnected the IPS and it started but it sounded like it was only running on a couple of cylinders. It would not accept throttle. The local Forddealer does not have a Ford diesel tech. Ive called a couple of diesel shops and I hear could be a bad HPOP, or bad ECM or a bad IDM but without seeing it. I am at my wits end with this thing. I am an electronic engineer by background. So I have a good sense of the process. I have checked all fuses, relays, etc. I will say I did have one issue with it a year ago where the UVC problem popped up but the dealer fixed it and it has been fine ever since.
View 14 Replies
05, 170k miles. Studded and egr delete but I don't have paperwork on either. Got a pretty good deal on the truck but I have a few questions..
It runs and starts great, warm and cold, with only a little blue smoke on cold startup. but every now and then when idling (say at a stoplight) the engine gets noticeably rougher, not terrible. No smoke. Goes away after 5-10 seconds.
When I remove the oil cap, there is a "puffing" blow by, not constant, and its not enough to blow the cap off if I set it on backwards. Just puffing.
This may be related, but I pulled the starter wire off the drivers side and touched it to the battery to hear how it cranks, and there is a noticeable blip in the cranking, its not 100% smooth.
Don't think I am losing any coolant. Runs great, getting 15MPG. No CEL. I went and had a relative comp. check done, cylinder 7 is the problem. We both are leaning toward there being a valve problem So I pulled the valve cover, now I have a few questions.
1. When I crank the engine over without starting, I can hear a "pfft....pfft....pfft" chug of air every revolution. I pulled the cover to see if I had a obvious rocker problem, but can't see anything because the oil rail is in the way. I'm guessing this air puff is sign of a valve problem?
2. When the truck is running, there is a small, steady stream of oil running down the rail and dripping onto the valve cover mating surface of the head, I think it was at every injector, definitely 2 of them. Was getting dark, so hard to see. Is this normal, or do I have a leak? Truck has updated dummy plugs.
My next step is probably going to be pull the rail, see if there is a obvious problem, then pull the head. And tips for me? Planning on having the HVAC evacuated then pulling the airbox.
View 9 Replies
2004 f350 4x4 sc dually 130K mi. Cranked truck this morning @ 18*F. Truck not plugged in but regular quick smooth startup. Noticed light blue smoke with normal condensation exhaust for about 5 seconds, then normal condensation exhaust for about 30 seconds. Drove truck at normal operating temps with 5* deltas. To my knowledge, truck has original turbo (Garrett), never been removed or cleaned by me. VGT at startup 70-72, running after warmup mid 50's. Is this a symptom of needing to replace turbo seal, and thorough cleaning while off?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2002 f350 that has had cold starting issues since I bought it. I have replaced the glow plugs twice, the glow plug solenoid four times. When I put a new solenoid on it it works fine for a short time. I know the solenoids are bad because I get battery voltage on one side and nothing on the other. If I jump the solenoid with a jumper wire I can get the truck to start. I thought I was getting bad solenoids but I have recently tested the activation circuit and am getting constant power there. I.e. It never shuts off. I think this is what is causing the solenoids to burn up. From the tracing of wiring diagrams I have done, the only thing before the solenoid is the Pcm. So now to the question,
1) What controls the activation of the Glow plugs? Is there a temperature sensor or something before the Pcm.
2) Is this a case of my Pcm going out on me? I am a mechanic in the army so I have a decent understanding of mechanics.
However I am at a loss for these systems.
View 14 Replies
My truck has been having this issue pretty much since I have had it, but it seems to be getting worse, or so I think.
When the truck is cold, it does not want to move very well. Like it's missing, and it does this until it gets warmer. Also, I have puffs of blue smoke come out the tailpipe when this occurs with it cold.
Injectors? Injector o-rings? Stiction?
FICM volts are good at 46.5v-48v when cranking.
View 6 Replies
Replaced cups 3ish years ago
Replaced IPR (non- Motorcraft) and ICP last year
New (not remans) PIS Stage 1 injectors with Hydra Flash October
Truck has been running and starting (down to 19 degrees) like a dream since the new injectors. After the last fill up the truck has been harder to start in the morning and if I don't let it warm up till at least until the needle moves it will stall and be difficult to start. Once started and up to temp it runs just fine but will definitely take aa few extra turns to get started whether cold or hot.
There is CEL, I don't smell or see any diesel in the coolant, oil looks good and the diesel in the filter is kind of a clear blue? The way it acts when it stalls is kind of like when the IPR went bad the first time... kind of. The few times I was able to get my phone connected fast enough I saw and IPR duty cycle in the 90s flash and a HPOP pressure of 1500 or so flash all while the truck is barely hanging on to an idle.
View 12 Replies
This is an issue I started chasing after having all the injectors replaced on my aunt's F-350. We had them replaced due to hard/no start on cold (dealership told her they needed to be changed). Unfortunately, I did not get the buzz test results before changing the injectors.
So far that has been replaced:
Injectors
ICP (was leaking)
IPR
both UVCH
IDM (twice)
The issue we are having right now is that only 2 injectors (#6, #7) buzz properly. Initially when we changed the injectors, it did start but didn't seem to run quite right. We did the buzz test and at that time and injectors 1,3,5,6,7 would buzz strong but the rest were weak. After some forum lurking, we suspected that the IDM was faulty. We purchased a refurbished one and after we changed it, only injectors 6,7 would buzz strong. Thinking a faulty IDM was sent it back for a replacement. While waiting, we decided to put the old one back in figuring it would go back as it was before but only 6,7 would buzz strong. We receive the second IDM and same thing, only 6,7 buzz strong. We did a continuity test from the IDM connector and they all get 2.7 ohms (it was an older multimeter so not sure if being .1 under the 2.8-3.6 range is bad).
What I did next is use the uvch external pigtail to test the injectors. I plugged the extra pig tail into the uvch and then the ends of the wires into the plug of the upper harness. Afterwards, I would swap a different injector wire (on the pigtail) to the #6 injector wire (on the upper harness). Whatever injector that would go to #6 would fire correctly. So I know that the injectors themselves are fine. I am suspecting the wiring harnesses (upper/lower) but the continuity test would say otherwise. We also do not get any fault codes except for the EBP occasionally (waiting for a new one). I am lost on what to test or look at next.
View 2 Replies
I have a 04 f350 with 175k on it. At around 160k it had new head gaskets, 2-reman heads, egr delete, new oil cooler and it is studded and tuned with SCT and custom tunes.
Since after the head gasket change it seemed to have started blowing a little smoke on the cold starts mainly. In cold weather the starts seem to be harder or slower also. Now for the last 6k-8k miles there is a little smoke at a cold start. But if the motor is warm and it sits for a bit maybe 10 min or less it blows a nice puff of blue smoke or burnt oil.
The smell of burnt oil is mainly on hot starts not cold starts. It does not burn oil running. It will dump some black smoke under acceleration or load. Could this be an injector problem? Or something else? Can't figure it out.
View 5 Replies
My 04 6.0h started puffing bluish colored smoke typically only when I was accelerating. After a short amount of time I noticed it was smoking quite a bit when cold and until it had fully warmed up. I took it to the repair shop and they pulled it apart saying the turbo seal had failed and the turbo was full of oil. I purchased a new Garret PowerMax and had it put it in.
I picked up my truck and of course it was still smoking when cold. After it warmed up nothing, just like before. Since I just put a new turbo in I am worried this one will be ruined as well since the same condition exist. My mechanic said I need to run the truck for few days before the oil would get cleared out which had accumulated in the system. Am I mistaken in thinking that if it was residual oil burning that it would be more likely to do smoke when warm as opposed to when cold?
Since the turbo and seal have now been replaced what else should I look for to cure my blue smoke blues?
View 2 Replies
I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
View 14 Replies
I had been fighting some problems with injectors for several years. I didn't have time to dig into it. I knew what I needed to do, just needed to find time to do it. I honestly thought it was and injector and thought I would have to go to new sticks because I've had so many problems with the remans.
Well I finally had time last week. I pulled the passenger side valve cover and ohmed the injectors. It would be almost impossible to get the leads in the injector while installed the truck. I kept an old valve cover harness, so I cut a pig tail off of it and plugged it into the injectors so I could test. You can see the meter attached to the pigtail in the pic.
To my surprise all four were all right around 2.7 ohms. You need to set your meter so you are getting a reading w a decimal. If you set it to high it will only show a whole number and it is better to have a more accurate reading.
I then plugged the wiring harness back in and tested it from there. The #7 injector gave over 6 ohms. This told me that my wiring harness was bad. I went OE and replaced it. I had a problem w a Dormant valve cover gasket before so didn't want to go that route. After I replaced the gasket and harness all my readings were under 3 ohms. They were all lower than w the old harness.
View 4 Replies
Experiencing blue smoke shooting out the tail pipe of your newer F150. Mine has been puffing blue since 12,000kms, still doing it at 55,000kms. Been to 2 Ford dealers (6+X) and they can never seem to repeat it. However it has been getting worse. Shop foreman guessed and said its valve seals.
I took a video, which I will post here, contacted Ford customer relations, and they tell me until it smokes at the dealer they cant go ahead with any repairs.I told Ford my truck will sit on the dealer lot until it smokes again and I am not driving it anymore. Photo is worth a thousand words, video is worth none. This is driving me up the wall!!.
2010 F150 5.4L Engine blue smoke - YouTube
Note the blue puff in the video is my truck, taken last Friday, and this is a small amount. Normally it fills my driveway and garage.
View 6 Replies
