Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - After Super Chip Installation Got Icp Code?
Apr 29, 2015
I have an 2002 7.3 powerstroke. It has a super chips installed, set on heavy tow mode. When throttle is on the foot and I start up a hill check engine light comes on. Code is for icp fault or uncontrollable. Also happens on cruise but more often on the foot. Have to reset to get check engine light off. Light stays off til I go to pull a hill again. I am also pulling a horse trailer with 1-4 horses. Could the programmer be causing this?
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My f350 has 300k on it. 95% of its driving is on trips of 22 miles or more at highway speeds. Occasionally long trips (going to put on 3k miles in 8 days here soon)
Want to drive the truck to 500k miles...but wondering if a tune or a chip would change the mpgs and not hurt reliability? I know its not a Honda Civic...I am not looking for 35mpg....would love to pick up a couple more than I have.
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Title says it, I just installed my Hydra Chip, now my edge says it cant communicate with PCM. I have checked all the connections on the edge, all is good. I planned on just using the Edge only for gauges. Will it not work anymore now that I have a Hydra? If not I will just sell it and buy an Edge Insight, so long as that will work.
I think its the Edge EVO 2, its this one.
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So the idea has been kicked around before, but to my knowledge no one yet has done it on FTE. That is, a lighted display switch for our chips that only lights up the current position. Well, I've got it done!!
First some pics, then read below for how I did it. First pics are in the light, the next two are how it looks in positions 1 & 5 at night.
Now, for how I did it. First off, I started with one of the lighted displays from BCPD. Each number has an individual LED behind it, so I could wire up each one for the position it's in.
The back of all the chips have 7 wires attached to it. One is black, it's in the middle, and it is a common ground to the chip. The other 6 wires are all position grounds. The switch works by grounding one wire to the black wire for the position you are in. If you look at where the wires plug into the chips, the one farthest away from the black is position #1, and they count up sequentially from there toward the black wire.
First thing is to unplug the the selector **** cord from the chip before doing any work. I acutally ordered a spare switch from Jody, just in case I screwed up something (which I didn't), I wouldn't be without my chip.
I took the black rubber off the back of the switch to access the soldered connections. I soldered the ground for each LED on the display to the appropriate pole with the wire connected to it on the back of the display. I had some CAT 5 ethernet cable lying around, and I used the wires inside of it for the ground from the switch to the display. You can use a DVM or continuity tester to check for continuity between the black wire and each position to veryify which wire belongs to what position. I ran the extra wires out the bottom of the rubber cover, along with the original wires.
For power, I only wanted the lights to be on at night. So, I tapped into the wire for the gauge lights, put a 1 amp inline fuse (old glass type fuse), and connected all the hot wires of the LED's so they are a common hot. The LEDs already had resistors wired into them, so I didn't need to add any more.
The fit for everything where I put it was a little tight, but I eventually got it to fit, as you can see. And all the lights do work, and show up quite well at night. The display works by having a common hot to all LED's and grounding the one that for the position it's in, completing the circuit and lighting the LED.
Some other ideas would be to wire up 6 different colored LED's to constant power and place them somewhere else, say in the A-Pillar, dash, or on the door to the inside of the mirror. So, you'd have a different color LED for each position. It's not limited to using the BCPD display, that's just what I already had. The creativity is up to you on how you'd choose to light things up for each position.
Finally, I did talk to Jody about doing this and any negative effects it would have on the chip. He said there would be none, since you're just pulling a ground from it. Also, if you use an LED, they are by design only allowing current to flow in one direction, since they are diode's already. But, to be on the safe side, I used the 1 amp fuse on the power wire. You won't need any bigger than that as the LED's don't draw very much power at all.
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Well I went to have a guy at work scan my truck to see why my o/d light is flashing His scanner wouldn't connect so I unhooked my ts chip still wouldn't after that Now with the chip unplugged. I can't start with it on I can't start...
My cel is on and my theft light just blinks. My wait to start never comes on but my glow plugs do start up and warm up. All I have is cranking but that's it?
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So here it is, I have a 2002 F 250 CCSB, 7.3, 180k, 4R100 Auto (Build date 06/02 so no mechanical diode correct?), 4x4, 4 inch exhaust, Riffraff 6637 Blue filter, with edge evolution (run in STOCK ONLY, just using it for gauges) that has recently thrown the P0781 code, and flashing the OD button. The interesting thing is I haven't noticed any hard shifts from 1-2 or any gear change for that matter. Fluid was changed less than 2k miles ago, was nice and red.
I have read of others having to rev up to 2500 RPM and then let off of the throttle to shift. No such issues here. Drives the same as usual. The only issues I can think of would be a sticky shift solenoid, sticky shift valve, or intermediate one way clutch that can cause this problem, but as it is only a code and blinking OD light and no actual shifting problems I am at a loss?
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Just bought a 2002 F-250 4x4 Off-Road Crew Cab 7.3L and the airbag light is staying on. I have found out after the fact that the truck has been previously involved in a front end collision. The damage was to the passenger side front. I turn the ignition on, the airbag light will come on solid (just like all the rest, with the exception of the 4x4 and 4x4 low) then go out. Then it flashes slowly 2x then 5x, then goes out for a bit then repeats a few times before staying on. This tells me I am getting a code of 25. I have searched with no luck to narrow this issue down. Everything mechanically works, cruise, horn, etc. The only thing I can find wrong is when I engage the 4-wheel drive (floor shifter) the indicator lights do not illuminate in the instrument cluster. Neither the 4x4 nor the 4x4 low. I am unfamiliar with this truck, so I don't know where to began searching. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I have children in the truck quite often, so I would like to remedy this very quickly.
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I have a 2002 ford excursion. I know they have cali emissions. It runs fine then suddenly dies while driving. We've replaced the glow plug switch and relay. Neither one fixed the problem. we washed the motor a while back and it fried the programmer wiring.
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So I posted a while back about fixing all the leaks I had and what I was going to do. I finally completed all the repairs and reinstalled the engine and it won't start. Cranked a bunch and checked oil level in hpop its good so I pulled plugs in oil rails there is oil present there, cracked the yellow valve on fuel bowel there is fuel there. unplugged the icp sensor and cranked more still no indication of wanting to start.
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I've been looking for a remote start system to install on my truck it has no remotes of any kind now. I've been googling most of the day and i can't seem to find anything except something that hooks to a edge tuner of some kind.
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I bought an Autometer 4763 gauge that didn't come with the correct fittings to plumb the sender into one of the extra ports on the back of the bowl. I went to the Ace hardware store right across the street and they didn't have anything (not surprised) and then Napa. They couldn't find a fitting to match either. He found that the plug threads are 7/16 20 tpi and the sender is 1/8" NPT. He suggested getting a 7/16 20tpi bolt, drilling it rifle-style, and then tapping it for a 1/8" NPT. The alternative, and what I ended up doing, was to use brass fittings to tee it off one of the supply lines to the heads. I ended up going that route but wanted to know if I should have looked harder for the right fitting.
Here's a pic of what I have now. I've test fit it, and it seems to work although I will need to insulate the hard lines because they rub due to the offset.
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Looking for pics of where/how they mounted their fuel pressure gauge? I'm getting ready to install one.
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Not near my truck at the time and wondering if I can install one of these switches. I don't know where the 2 positive battery cables meet.
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I have been reading here about alternate methods to torquing the hold down bolts for the injectors. This winter I replaced my old stock split shots with new alliant single shots. I installed the injectors into a cold engine and torqued the hold down bolts to 10 ft lbs. I did not ever go back and re-tighten.
Is it suggested to go in and re-tighten the injector hold down bolts to 10 ft-lbs after the engine has been heated up and cooled down? What are some symptoms of a loose injector? I am imagining premature wear on the injector cups, low compression and maybe some mixing of oil into the combustion chamber.
Did just throw the injectors in and go back later to retorque only to find they were all fine or were some loose?
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Looking for a performance chip i can install for my truck? I have a 2008 ford f150 lariat with a 5.4L triton engine. I'm just looking to increase the horsepower and anything else that is enhanced with the chip installed.
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I've had the Ford Remote Access installed on my pickup for over a year now and it's worked great up until about a week ago when I changed cell phone providers from AT&T to Verizon. Now when trying to use the app I get the error code 00011000. I up-dated the app to reflect the new carrier but it still doesn't work. And yes, my subscription to the service is current. What I need to do to get this working again, with winter just around the corner I'd sure like to have this functional again. I figured I'd give the forum a shot before I resort going to the dealer.
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can i install a gauge cluster from a junk yard truck without reprogramming it? im not concerned with the odometer reading just need gauges. truck is a 2002 f250 sd 2wd auto gas.
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I took out the PCM and there seemed to be no chip in it. But after I put the PCM back in, I think it reset it. Because the truck does not blow any black smoke, nor does it burn rubber when flooring it at a stop. But still seems just as zippy. But I'd like to know if there is a chip in the truck. Where would I go about searching for one. I've looked at everything and it all seems to be stock.
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First diesel and it came with this chip. Also has a six position and the Po told me the settings. He said the check engine light was on because of it. Will it also cause the od off light to be on? I still have od and it shifts fine. But the off light stays off. Then sometimes it will be off. Never flashes like a code. And can I take the chip off with out putting something back in the hole. I want to see if the lights go off if I remove it.
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Here's the story. Truck has showed no signs of rough running. Wife drives truck around town. Truck up to temperature and doing fine on a 90 degree day. Stops at red light. Makes left turn engine light comes on truck seems to be running on 4 cylinders. Pulls over light goes off engine idles perfect. Pulls back on road light on no power. Gets truck to a local friends house lets it sit til I get off work.
I check for codes get p1316. Drive truck toward my house no problems for 4-5 miles then does the above with me. Limp it home. I know it is pointing at a wire problem to injectors and or IDM. Did a buzz test passed fine. Plan on pulling valve covers and looking for the usuall things. Any thing I am missing? What will a kOEO test tell me? Should I run one? How common is IDM to go out? One last thing just put a rebuilt transmission in it 3 days ago may be unrelated it seems to be doing fine.
2003 f-350 cc 7.3.
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I have a 2002 7.3L Screw 4x4. Will a 03/04 6.0L instrument cluster work in this truck? The 2 clusters appear identical. I put the 6.0 cluster in and the trans temp, and coolant temp gauge will not work. All the gauges sweep when it is powered on, but the coolant and trans temp lay flat, and the check gauge light is on. All other gauges and functions work. When I put my other cluster in, all gauges work fine. Is there a difference in the VSM, PCM, or the SCP communication?
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