Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 7.3L - GPR Won't Energize?
Jul 9, 2016
I changed out my gpr because I was losing 2volts across the posts. Now my problem is the new gpr doesn't energize. However the next morning it does...So I conclude that it is temp related of course. So my question is this, why are the 2 small posts energized with 12volts when the gpr DOESN'T ENERGIZE? Is that the means by which the PCM tells the relay to not energize?
Second part of the question, when trouble shooting the gpr I noticed that the wiring harness directly to the north of the gpr and under the cold side of the turbo tubing was frayed. What does that harness control? Also, I taped it up to avoid shorts, but could I replace this?
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I have a 2002 7.3L Screw 4x4. Will a 03/04 6.0L instrument cluster work in this truck? The 2 clusters appear identical. I put the 6.0 cluster in and the trans temp, and coolant temp gauge will not work. All the gauges sweep when it is powered on, but the coolant and trans temp lay flat, and the check gauge light is on. All other gauges and functions work. When I put my other cluster in, all gauges work fine. Is there a difference in the VSM, PCM, or the SCP communication?
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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I have a 02 f350 7.3 with 296,000k its been running ruff lately with a serious loss in power. The truck sounds good at idle starts up fine but when im on the throttle under load it almost crackles and sometimes bucks. I thought its was injectors replaced them all with stock ford remains but didn't fix the problem. I have AE and it passes a buzz test but i did a KOER test today and it started what seemed like a misfire during the test my ICP went to 2400-2500 and my IPR was at 38%. I have already put a new hpop in a couple month back along with new hpop lines do to a burst, ICP sensor, and i rebuilt the IPR valve. Not sure if this is a problem with fuel or the hpop I have also cleaned the screens in the tank and replaced the fuel pump which were pretty bad....
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There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3, 159k on it. I bought it in March, ran AWESOME up till now. I was driving to work last week, check engine light came on, truck lost power and started idling rough. I have a buddy who works for a Ford dealer as a diesel mechanic, he came over with his scanner and laptop. #2,#4,#8 cylinders kept coming up saying possible problems are injectors, harness, rings.. He also did an electrical check, that all checked out. He told me to get injectors, so I got 4 injectors (yes I got the correct #8 injector), valve cover gasket, injector harness and 4 glow plugs.
The parts came last Friday, we did the job and it ran great. Drove it Friday night, Saturday, Sunday morning, no issues. Sunday afternoon we were on our way to a birthday party, truck started doing the exact same thing... Check engine light, rough idle, loss of power. After I got home from the party, my buddy came back over, put it on the scanner again, getting the same codes again. Deleted the codes, ran the tests again, same codes, deleted the codes, rant the tests again, same codes.
He said he is going to come by tomorrow with the box to check each individual cylinder.
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I now have a 2002, 7.3, 250, 4x4 and love it. Everything but the milege. All in all it's a great ride. I have one little problem that's driven me nuts.
The power windows and the radio go out occasionally. Both at the same time. They come back on...... sometimes. Sometimes it takes a day or two. I've checked the fuses and then saw that there is a breaker in the 601 location in the fuse box that's probably causing the problem.
But I thought that it was supposed to shut off to protect that circuit when there is a short somewhere. I don't know where to go or how to locate the short if in fact this is my problem.
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Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
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I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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Lately I had a couple glitches seemingly unrelated with this electrical system. Something just failed. I have two new motor craft batteries cleaned all wires/ clamps. The alternator has been tested good. The other morning I started my truck and smelt a wire burning up before I took off. Battery positive to glow plug relay was hot. The solenoid was junk so I replaced it. Still not the problem. With the battery positive hooked to the solenoid, truck will not shut off. It will shut off by key if the wire is unhooked. I do know this. When hooked up, the battery positive is feeding voltage (.4v) through a new solenoid to the PCM, thus keeping the pcm life when the key goes off. Bad pcm? With the battery positive hooked up to the glow plug solenoid. There is such a large draw that the charging system cannot keep up. Wich out me on The side of the interstate at 1 am as I watched my lights grow dimmer til truck stalled. U hooked the battery positive from solenoid got a jump and been fine since....however, there's a major problem lying there right?
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I have a 02 7.3 I started getting a little oil in my water checked oil all looked good. Drained coolant then flushed the system. Filled back up with only water drive the truck to work and back about 5 miles each way after a week had just little oil in water. Checked oil this time and have water in the oil, not a whole bunch but just enough to notice. Checked water and it was about a quarter gallon low. Truck doesn't over heat, still runs great, no smoke, no pulsating in water level. I was think oil cooler?
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We have a 2002 excursion. I have replaced the 4x4 selector switch on the dash as well as the front hubs they are now the warn premium hubs and the transfer case shift motor all part are ford all but the hubs. My question is it will not shift from 2 hi to 4 hi to 4 low, I have done all the right things that the book says to do, put vic in neutral keep foot on break, switch selector switch to 4x4 or 2 or low and it will not shift. When the transfer case shift motor was off i put the truck back in 2 wheel drive by hand with a wrench and it moves free no binding what else could it be the fuse under the steering wheel is good and new parts are good as well...
4x4 2002 excursion limited 7.3 only mod is cold air intake....
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Moving my worldly goods from California to Oklahoma in a rented 26' box truck with my wife following in our '02 F350 loaded to the gills with my lathe, mill, air compressor, weld and assorted machinery. Just west of Deming NM it started to blow lots of white smoke and down on power. Some rattling noises from the engine when throttled up & won't reach 3000RPM.
Had it towed to an impound yard for storage. Plan on sending a flat bed to pick it up when we get to Tulsa.
Any experience with a tilt back trailer capable of loading & transporting this truck that weighs around 17,000 pounds? My plan is to continue on to Tulsa & make arrangements from there.
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I want to put 305-75-20 on my stock f250 4x4 will they work?
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I have a 2002 f350 psd. I pulled it inside today to wash it. After washing it wouldn't start. Pcm is working. No oil pressure on guage and no reading on tach.
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