Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 7.3 ZF6 - Vibration Noise Starting Out?
Apr 4, 2017
I have an 02 F350 7.3 6 speed with only 86,000 miles on it ... Ive owned the truck about a year and a half now and ever since i can remember the transmission has had this growling/Groaning/Vibration sounding noise when ever Im in 1st or 2nd slow rolling with barely any throttle. Itll make the noise going slow and as soon as i let out on the clutch and start moving, but once i give it a little more throttle and start moving at a more proper speed for the gear, the noise fades away ... Id assume its just the transmission making noise due to the low speed and RPM when slow rolling or just starting from a stop.
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2002 7.3 Power Stroke... I bought the truck about 4 months ago and I absolutely love it but over the last few weeks is has been acting funny at times, it doesn't do it all the time but it has been getting progressively worse, ill drive the truck all day and no problems when I shut it off and go to start it again it just cranks but won't fire.
* Batteries are charged and in good condition, oil is a little dirty but full, I have no codes or check engine light on, and my wait to start light seems to be working fine!
* If I supply a fuel source(starting fluid) the truck will fire but not stay running
* And let it sit for 15 to 45 minutes fires right up like there was never an issue.
* There are no blown fuses
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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I have seen a number of post about front end vibs associated with steering and braking. I have had a hard time finding these posts and decide to post my vib/noise accompanied when brake and steering applied.
I too have a vib/noise coming from the front at low speed braking and turning (mostly parking lots and such).
About 5-6 months ago (around 90k miles) I noticed a high squeal at high rpms. I thought it had something to do with the belt so one day while driving up the grapevine pass (I-5), under high rpm, I turned the AC on. The squeal went away, I turn the AC off the squeal came back, I was pretty sure it was the belt and hopefully not the AC compressor.
10k miles later, I finally got to changing the serp belt. After I changed the belt, I immediately heard a rough vibration noise when braking and then when PS is under strain. It seams like it comes and goes when it wanted to, but now its always under the low speed parking lot conditions. Sometimes the vibration can be felt in the floorboards.
I haven't gotten to fix'n it yet lol... as I don't know what the problem is. I'm finding it hard to believe that a serp belt could be the cause of vib/noise when braking/low speed turning. One thing for sure, the vib/noise instantly occurred when I changed the serpentine belt. What might be going on here?
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Recently I have a vibration that I can feel slightly through the steering wheel. If I'm driving down the highway doing 70mph + I have a noise coming from the front end. Also while driving let's say 40mph and below and I let off the pedal to slow down I can here a vibration in the front that kind of sounds like a small Jake break. And when going over anything bumpy I hear like a popping metal sound. This popping sound has been going on for a long time and still can't figure it out. I replaced all my shocks thinking my old set was bottoming out. Nope, still have the same problem.
I jacked up the front end yesterday and checked for movement top and bottom and side to side thinking maybe the wheel bearings or ball joints were going. Everything is solid. Spun the wheels and no noise, no grinding, nothing. I can't figure it out. I have not removed the wheels to check and see if a caliper is loose. I will be checking that next. I did notice while looking around that I can push up on my pitman arm on the steering box. It's not a huge amount of movement but I can still move it. I can also see teeth marks between the box and the arm, not sure if that is normal or not. When I do move it up and down it sounds a lot like that metal popping sound I have been hearing. So, I know this is a lot.
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I have been trying to chase down a whirling noise that follows vehicle speed since I bought the truck in my sig in Oct. The noise happens whether or not the hubs are free or locked so I don't think it is the front needle bearings. I just changed the transfer case fluid over to Mobile 1 Syn. and there was no change in the noise. I also changed the front pads, rotors, slide pins and calipers a few weeks ago and that didn't have an effect on the noise either. Today I took the truck for a ride and I'm not sure but it seems almost like the noise is a bit louder! And I noticed that if I hit the brakes firmly, harder than a normal stop the noise gets significantly quieter and if I release them again the noise goes right back to normal. This has got me stumped...
Along with this noise, I have a vibration on the freeway that gets worse around 55 and lets off around 61. Its worse at some speeds and better at others. Thinking the two were related I pulled the rear drive shaft and checked the u-joints and the carrier bearing for play. The carrier bearing doesn't have any real play but there is quite a bit of slop, ability to turn back and forth, where the driveshaft comes out of the transfer case. All but one of the u-joint cups were fine. The bad one isn't even too bad just the rubber seal around it is a little off, there is still grease in it and the needle bearings seem fine.
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My rearmost drive shaft u-joint is bad and has slop. I've been having vibration for about 7-8 months, but just started hearing a noise within the past week, especially when taking off with a load on the drive line (uphill or heavy acceleration). The vibration has not gotten worse, just that the noise has just begun to show itself.
I have one u-joint which is OE and has 275K miles on it, and it seems to be OK at the moment. The other two (including the rearmost unit) both have about 100K miles, as does the center support bearing.
Just because I don't want to worry about anything, I'm going to replace all three u-joints with Moog Super Strength units, and will also replace the Center Bearing with a new Spicer unit... just because I can and don't want to be pecked to death with multiple failures in the same drive line. I ordered the Moog joints because the only Spicer joints I could find were for the 4wd configuration.
That's the context... here's my question... The parts are on order and won't get here for several days. I've been driving the truck like it is at about 1500 miles monthly. Do I continue to drive the truck for another week before getting the joints and bearing installed? I know it's a guess... just looking for more perspective.
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I have a 2000 Ford F350 7.3 with the auto and 262,000 miles on it. As far as I know everything is stock on this truck. It has been a great truck but lately its been making a strange noise. It almost sounds like an exhaust rattle or vibration but it is intermittent. Its not really loud it can be heard best in the cab at idle. I've looked all over on the truck and haven't found anything. I can't pinpoint where it is coming from. I tried starting the truck with the serpentine belt off no change.
I took the inspection plate off the bell housing and couldn't see any cracks the torque converter bolts appear tight, and the starter is not engaged while running. I've read a few forums on the torque converter going bad. It looks to me like its more the 99 trucks that had trouble with that. Did the torque converter issue carry over to the 2000's? Would a torque converter/transmission problem be intermittent?
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I have an 02 crew cab SB 7.3L. The best way to I know to describe it is a sorta like a metal ringing noise. It just started this afternoon while pulling a 9k camper. It only does it under load. Boost stays the same and it happens in all ranges from 5psi to 15psi. It is intermittent. It sounds like it it coming from the turbo. I pulled off the boot and could not feel any play on the intake wheel.
After unhooking trailer and taking for a test drive I can not get it to do it again? The turbo was rebuilt about 4 years ago with a wicked wheel but has only seen about 18k miles since the rebuild. A quick look at the boots appear good but didn't get to take them off before going to work. I will try to post video.
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Moving my worldly goods from California to Oklahoma in a rented 26' box truck with my wife following in our '02 F350 loaded to the gills with my lathe, mill, air compressor, weld and assorted machinery. Just west of Deming NM it started to blow lots of white smoke and down on power. Some rattling noises from the engine when throttled up & won't reach 3000RPM.
Had it towed to an impound yard for storage. Plan on sending a flat bed to pick it up when we get to Tulsa.
Any experience with a tilt back trailer capable of loading & transporting this truck that weighs around 17,000 pounds? My plan is to continue on to Tulsa & make arrangements from there.
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I just did an engine swap and have an odd noise that I was curious on where to start. It sounds like a buzz test on an injector at 2,250 rpm and gets louder as rpms increase but starts out very faint and get louder. Makes noise converter unlocked and locked in gear under load and free rev no load.
-2002 F550
-Fuel pressure is 60+ psi all the time
-Regulated return fuel system
-New injectors all AD
-Stock tune
-38R turbo
-New flexplate
-injector hold down tight
-new degas res
-new water pump.....
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I just changed u-joints and the carrier bearing on the rear driveshaft. I now have a "howl" somewhere back there. The noise starts around 30mph and goes away around 40mph. There no vibration associated with it. The sound goes away after driving for 15-20 minutes.
I double check all my marks on the driveshaft to make sure I put it in the way it came out. I put it up on jack stands and ran it up to speed but couldn't replicate the sound that way.
The truck is a 2002 F350 7.3ltr DRW.....
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I have a Stock 02 f350 7.3 with 66,000 miles ... I'm sure this has been covered plenty if times, but I notice more so on cold days (-20 to 30). My truck after starting and even letting it warm up for a period of time makes a hissing sound from the passenger side of the cab near the dash/glove box area, Like I said I've only really noticed it on cold days ... It usually occurs between 1200 and 1800 rpm and it's a very touchy noise, for example I only really hear it when I'm cruising at a consistent speed, if I get on the gas a little it goes away till I bring it back to consistent throttle cruising then it comes back, same goes for when I let off the gas it goes away until I give it a steady consistent throttle again ....
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About 10 days ago following a heavy rain, I went to start my truck. It made a series of clicks and chirps, and acted like there was no power. Like dead battery or something. After fiddling get with the key and trying to figure the issues, all the sudden started normal door chimes....and truck started...no issues after that for several days.
Had another rain storm...same issues only this time took longer to get it to act normal. Once it did....no problems till today. This time wasn't a big rain...still acting weird. Battery's have power. ..it's not a battery or alternator issue I'm sure. Seems like a grounding issue if I had to guess....but can not tell where...or if that's really it.? No codes or lights once it acts normal.
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I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
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'99 F-250 7.3 PS 2WD Automatic 246,000 miles
Jumped in my truck a bit ago and it wouldn't start, although it is turning over. The "Wait to Start" light is not coming on and the Overdrive button on the shifter is lit up OFF and won't change with me pressing the button. I've checked all the fuses under hood and inside cab with multimeter and everything checks out ok.
Also, when it was raining last week I found that when I turned on my windshield wipers the truck would die. My solution to get home was to just flip it back & forth real quick every so often so I could see out the windshield.
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Have a 7.3 powerstroke won't start.. I have went through tons of parts check everything I can think of. I have put icp, our, fuel pump, fuel pump, injector, glow plugs and relay, fuel and air filter. new starter, new valve cover harness. HPOP is good and compression is good?
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'99 F-250 7.3 PS 2WD Automatic 246,000 miles
Jumped in my truck a bit ago and it wouldn't start, although it is turning over. The "Wait to Start" light is not coming on and the Overdrive button on the shifter is lit up OFF and won't change with me pressing the button. I've checked all the fuses under hood and inside cab with multimeter and everything checks out ok.
Also, when it was raining last week I found that when I turned on my windshield wipers the truck would die. My solution to get home was to just flip it back & forth real quick every so often so I could see out the windshield.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil. I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. If you need any info off the scangauge let me know and I will post the exact readings. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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I'll get right into it, when I put the mud grips on my truck it always had a little vibration from 42-45 mph and it wasn't to bad. Recently from 30-65 I have a bad shuddering vibration that I get mainly in the steering wheel but I also feel it everywhere else and can see it on the mirrors. Well the front sway bar has a bushing that is broken. But also I notice recently at low speeds from my rear drivers side tire there is a noise that isn't right, maybe a bad bearing? I have a long list of stuff I gotta do on the truck and I just want to stop the Shake so I can get to everything else.
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As I'm cruising once I hit about 50mph I start getting a vibration in the peddles and floor board. It's not real bad but noticeable for sure. When I hit 70mph it's worse and the truck even sounds like it's vibrating. As soon as I let off the peddle and coast everything is golden.. Smooth.. So it seems to be a problem only under power..
A little back story : About a year ago I was getting bad vibration and loosing power. I put it in the shop and the mechanic said the filter or screen in the gas tank was clogged so he cleaned it. I went to Korea for a year so the truck sat in government storage for a year. When I got it back in March I put in back in the shop to have the front passenger side hub replaced.
I don't know if any of that has to do with the vibration I'm getting now.
Truck
2003 F250 ext cab
7.3l
179k miles
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