Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - When 4X4 Disengaged AC Went To Defrost Then AC Eventually Came Back
Oct 27, 2015
Proud new owner of a 2001 7.3....today. The previous owner installed Warn standard hubs. I assume they work same as OEM with the exception that I have to get out and lock them, right? Also, when I test drove it, and after locking them, I engaged to 4x4 button and the 4x4 engaged and worked. However, when I disengaged my AC went to defrost just like my old 7.3. The AC eventually came back. Is this normal? I think it also went to defrost when I engaged. The AC does come back after a couple minutes after disengaging.
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My 01 ac has worked just fine up until today. I got in this morning to leave the house and the air was only coming out of the defrost vents. I tried playing with the controls to get it to switch but couldn't. I assume its a vacuum leak, but where do I need to start looking?
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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On the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
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I have a 2001 F350 4x4. My transmission went out a while back. It would only go in reverse. I had it rebuilt and it is still having issues. When I take off with speed from a dead stop it shifts late...about 3000 RPMs. It shifts fine until it shifts into overdrive. It will go into to 4th then right into overdrive causing the truck to act sluggish.
I'm looking into my truck not starting well at any temp too! I didn't know if it could all be connected some how. My mechanic said that when he first started my truck it had a MAP sensor code. He also said that when he unplugged that sensor it didn't change the way the truck ran..Still like crap. I have changed all glow plugs relays and even did the mod to it.
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So the last couple times I got a car wash the truck started running real rough, sometimes dies, then runs fine after a few minutes. Well, the last car wash I got it did it again, but the issue didn't go away. I checked the injector plugs, cleaned and greased, no change. Validated the bowl is filling with fuel, changed fuel filter, no luck.
Sometimes it will start and idle fine, rev in neutral fine, if you come off throttle abruptly it will fall below normal idle and start stumbling with an SES light and eventually die.
I managed to get it idling good, started logging with TPro (attached) and it was throwing codes P0475 - Exhaust Pressure Control Valve, and P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, as well as P1211, p1249, p1316 listed as 'multiple descriptions'.
I'm assuming this is an electrical issue since it happened after washing the truck, just not sure what sensor would cause all this?
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My 1999 F550 7.3L has been hard to start when it's cold outside since I got it with about 150k on it (it has 200k on it now). Last year we tested the glow plugs and sure enough 5 of 8 were bad. So they are all new now. It worked a little with the hard start, but not much.
When it's cold out the engine will crank forever amongst clouds of smoke and the smell of unburnt diesel fuel and sometimes eventually start, followed by smoke and sputtering until the cylinders clear out. However, what I have noticed recently is that it will sometimes start in the first few revolutions. It seems like the best way to start cold is as follows:
1. Let the glow plugs heat up for a minute or two,
2. Crank engine for 10 or 15 seconds and stop,
3. Crank engine again, but stop if it doesn't catch in the first couple of revolutions,
4. Repeat step 3 until engine starts.
When it starts using this method, it's immediate and it's running smoothly immediately with minimal smoke. This is making me think there's a computer or sensor issue, but I have no codes.
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I've done everything I can think of, ive replace the starter, batteries and altenator, both batteries have at least 12.30 volts when taken out and checked, but i turn the key and it will have power then try to start and whole system dies and wont come back on, I've cleaned the terminals and posts to shiny and the ground connections but its still not getting power.
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I've been battling this truck for over a month now and starting to go a little crazy, It's a 2001 f350 7.3L, with a "used" 7.3L engine from a 1997. Transferred all the necessary parts to make it happen. Keep getting the evil p1316 idm codes detected coming back upon start up. Anywhere between 5-30seconds after starting the left bank dies. I've gone threw and replaced the IDM with a reman unit. New valve cover gaskets (with new harness). even went the extra mile and put in a new power wire (for the driver side) running directly from the new valve cover into the IDM bypassing a connector above the left valve cover. All injectors are checking out around 3ohms. With glow plugs all around 1-2ohms. What's interesting about this is, I can disable any one of the injectors on the left bank (doesn't matter which one) and the engine runs great considering it's down on one cylinder. But when I hook up that last injector it will kill the whole left bank again.
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Finally had a good scan done on my truck at the mechanics. The reoccurring codes were P0478 and P0470. It looks like a bad exhaust pressure control sensor. Looks like an easy fix.
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I have a 2000 450, and the a/c keeps switching to defrost by itself. Any way to fix??
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As the title implies, that is my problem. Can't get the AC to come out of anywhere other than the windshield defrost vents. Y'all ever encountered this before?
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My 99' started o blow air only through the defrost vent today, and won't go through any of the other vents. I think this happens when your vacuum pump goes bad or there is a leak, correct? If so, how can I test these to figure out the problem.
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The floor and defrost vents work. It just stays on defrost when you try to use the dash vents. The actuator seems to be working fine. I can watch the arm move through all the motions. and I cant find ANY vacuum leaks. Yes I looked at the hubs and under the hood. May be moving to alaska and kind of need my heater to work properly. . . .
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I have Warn hubs that I have to lock in. All works good. A/C goes to defrost at first when cranking but then runs fine after a couple seconds. So, I was thinking that maybe my pump is running all the time. Who knows. I'm sure all my vacuum lines are dry rotted. What exactly is the need for it exactly and what's the best way to cap? Hoping to do it at the unit itself if possible.
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I have '03 6.0 when it gets to full temp it will run horrible and eventually stall. It will take a few long cranks to restart. will drive a little bit but will stall again. It will idle all day long even after a stall. IPR @hot idle is 22 and ICP @hot idle is 640. IPR and IPC readings seem to run good throughout the rpm range except for when it dies. Then the IPR is anywhere from 71 to 85. Has new ICP and Pigtail. Runs very good until hot. I am leaning towards HPOP.
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I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
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I have always been afraid this day would come - that the engine would outlast the door and window systems.
I have never previously in life wanted a vehicle with electric assisted windows and doors for this reason - remember when those were expensive foo-foo options on a vehicle?
Anyway the back passenger door window has not worked for a couple years now. Not too big a deal.
A month ago the back passenger door could no longer be opened from either side. Not too good and I couldn't see much of a way to ever fix it.
This morning the back driver side door won't open from either side. The lock only half-heartedly wants to unlock via the powered system though it can be fully pulled up manually (not as possible on the passenger side rear).
Next up will be the front doors...
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I just had my turbo and the EBPV on the pedestal rebuilt. Now I need to put it back into the truck. What is the procedure, if any, to adjust the EBPV? I only use the truck to haul a 5th wheel RV and the performance chip closes the EBP valve when going down steep hills -( EXHAUST BRAKE)
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Kind of bummed my truck now leaks oil from both the front and back. It's not much volume wise - probably a pint every couple months but before I came up to Alaska it had never leaked a drop. Probably nothing I can do about it barring a rebuild. I have noticed all the guys say not to use any oil additives of any kind. Trying to get it in a shape for another epic journey back down the Alcan highway this fall. Or should I get rid of it and go for a 6.7.
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion 4x4 7.3 with 230K miles, around 15,000 miles ago I replaced the transmission with a rebuilt 4R100, lately I have noticed a leak towards the back end where the transmission and the transfer case connects. Some of the bolts on the bottom of the pan have ATF on them, some others however do not. I have had to add a quart of ATF in the past couple of days in order for it to engage into drive when going from Park to Drive. I have to rev it before it actually kicks in. I'm hoping the leak is just being caused by a gasket either in the pan or connecting the trans to the transfer case..
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