Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - Slight Whine / Grinding Noise Only In First And Reverse
Jun 16, 2015
I have a 2001 f 350 7.3 diesel r 400 tranny 320000 miles. . Im having transmission issues. It makes a slight whine/ grinding noise only in first And reverse. And it surges. Sometimes its fine though to. Check engine light came on. Only codes i get are #4 glow plug out and a low boost pressure. Checked boost before fixin Running fine at the normal about 20 psi. ive read a bad or dirty map or iat sensor can cause transmission issues along with the low boost error code. But in my experience and some reading it sounds like a stall converter.
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No codes, transmission makes a slight grinding noise when putting it into reverse only. Has a slight bump from 1st to 2nd. I flushed 16 quarts of the sp3 through it. Been researching and see a lot of talk about the output and input sensors. Not my car but my sisters. Needs axles, timing belt water pump, ps return hose, plus have champions in there and old ass hyundai wires.... thing does idle rough, motor mounts are new.
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I'm looking at a 2001 Excursion with 242k miles. Truck is all stock, and everything checks out well. The only thing is there is a slight vibration at idle, that increases quite a bit when the engine is revved to about 12-1500rpm. Ran a CCT, and #8 was flagged. I know that can be somewhat normal depending on the CPS, right? Otherwise the truck is smooth, and in great shape. Should I be concerned about what feels like a slight miss on #8?
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Recently I have a vibration that I can feel slightly through the steering wheel. If I'm driving down the highway doing 70mph + I have a noise coming from the front end. Also while driving let's say 40mph and below and I let off the pedal to slow down I can here a vibration in the front that kind of sounds like a small Jake break. And when going over anything bumpy I hear like a popping metal sound. This popping sound has been going on for a long time and still can't figure it out. I replaced all my shocks thinking my old set was bottoming out. Nope, still have the same problem.
I jacked up the front end yesterday and checked for movement top and bottom and side to side thinking maybe the wheel bearings or ball joints were going. Everything is solid. Spun the wheels and no noise, no grinding, nothing. I can't figure it out. I have not removed the wheels to check and see if a caliper is loose. I will be checking that next. I did notice while looking around that I can push up on my pitman arm on the steering box. It's not a huge amount of movement but I can still move it. I can also see teeth marks between the box and the arm, not sure if that is normal or not. When I do move it up and down it sounds a lot like that metal popping sound I have been hearing. So, I know this is a lot.
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My truck has been doing great over here in Germany, and I want it to stay that way lol. I know the snow is fast approaching here and figured I should test my 4x4(I usually do monthly anyway). After switching to 4-high and making the first turn in the open parking lot, I heard a lot of popping and grinding from the front end. I straightened the wheel and out and the grinding /popping continued.
I stopped, got out of the truck to try and lock the hubs to see if that would fix the issue. turns out the passenger side hub is locked up tight. I couldnt move it by hand and wasnt about to attempt to move it with added leverage.
What this could be? maybe a collapsed vacuum hose? but then I should still be able to manually turn my I hubs I would think.
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Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
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my parents have a f350 which now has no reverse. it has a reman sticker on it, 230k on the truck but no idea on mileage on the tranny. shifts 1st through 4th fine, no slip. Tc lockup works just fine. No codes found with my solus scanner. When shifted in reverse it will move back about 2 ft if revved above 2k and then nothing. Am I looking a trans rebuild or is there something I can check and repair with in it the truck?
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This started yesterday. A Loud grinding type noise from the top of the engine. As soon as I touch the throttle the noise goes away. I checked the pulleys and TC and everything checks out. Sounds like it's coming from the HPOP gear area like a gear train noise. Maybe the additional oil pressure has something to do with the HPOP inside getting quiet.
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The noise is somewhere between a tin rattle and a bearing grinding heard most when braking but constant under say 10 mph. We have not been able to pinpoint where exactly it is coming from but I believe it is front drivers side.(but really could be anywhere) it is not dependent on rpm, nor gear or clutch engagement, Nor hubs engaged or disengaged.
The drives side front hub, rear hubs' bearings(races and seals) have been replaced. I have the passenger side front hub to do as well, just haven't gotten to it yet and it doesn't seem bad. we are all stumped on what it is. It seems to relate to the rotating assembly though as it seems to change with speed. it almost seems like tire rub, but there is no scaring or marks of any sort anywhere for it.
Vehicle is a e99 f250 short bed ext cab. open diff if it makes any difference. My next thought after the hub is pinion bearing? Could it be something to do with abs? say the truck is 4 wheel abs but the fronts are disconnected (trying to figure out if it is 4wabs as it appears to have connectors, but the original hubs did not have the hole for the sensors. no abs light comes on, but that could be a bad bulb too)
What we have found is hubs locked or unlocked, 4wd engaged or disengaged, and happens at right around 16 mph, braking, accelerating, clutch in or out, in gear or in neutral. All 4 corners have new bearings. We have found 2 things, 1 is the track bar bushings are shot (don't think this is the source of the noise but could be wrong and i will be replacing those..once I have money in again.. 2 the passenger side leaf spring when wacked with your hand makes a different sound than the drivers side.( could be a matter of different loads, but figured worth noting)
There are 2 noises, the first is the noise we hear, the second is one that i found when doing the noise reduction (loud meaty tires you cant hear the noise in the audio without reduction) I think that that was one of the hubs, or maybe the brakes, I am unsure, but it happens at different locations in the video.
Audio : [URL] ....
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My friends truck is having a problem, and I haven't found any info on the specific issue. when you shift from P to D and accelerate, there's a slight grinding clatter in the tranny i think, bump it to 2 and the noise is completely gone! pull it to 1, and there she is again, also in reverse it does this, speed is not a factor, only the specific gears. i had read a thread which mentioned a "sun gear", and also that 1st and R are on the same bands?
I believe it was for a manual tranny that I had read about, but what this could be?! he's got a slight drag on the rear brakes, i assume it's his E-brake, could that have caused a transmission failure? We've removed the driveshaft and checked u-joints and all, nothing there, but when the truck reverses on the ground, you can watch the driveshaft bounce like it's binding. We grease the slip joint while we had it off, and we were able to spin the rear wheels by turning driveshaft w no problem while off the ground.
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I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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I have some whine coming from my front wheel bearings so I'm going to replace them both. I'm not sure if this had been done on my truck before, but I'm thinking so since I have Moog greaseable ball joints.
Truck has 250k miles on it. I'm going to check the pads, rotors and slide pins. Anything else that might need work? I'm sure the half shaft could use a once over, but I don't keep my hubs locked so they don't turn much in regular driving.
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So when driving my tuck the steering on it would sorta lock up like it wanted to push the truck to one side then it would free up and the steering would be real loose it just felt like it had no power steering to one side it's not the same side each time and it pulses when I'm at a stop if I move the the tires Erving the motor doesn't seem to work so far I have replaced ball joints and all tie rods they needed done anyways it would still do it got an alignment done last week and it almost seems worse now could just be coincidence.
I'm thinking power steering pump but when the steering locks up to one side I'm also wondering if it's the steering box it's kinda hard to explain it what's going on and there is no popping noise or anything when the steering frees up. It's kinda scary on the freeway when I go around a corner the steering gets real loose and wonders back and forth not all the time but quit a bit but when going strait it will feel like it wants to pull to one side then the steering will loosen up again. The steering will wine only first thing in the morning when I pull out of the driveway then it's fine
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I'm on the road and I pulled over for a pit stop so I don't have time for a search right now, but I noticed under heavy acceleration a turbo whine so high pitched it almost sounds like metal on metal. Is this normal and I just noticed it, a leak somewhere, or maybe indication of something worse? The truck seems to be running ok otherwise. It's an '02 w/7.3 and 220k miles.
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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I have seen a number of post about front end vibs associated with steering and braking. I have had a hard time finding these posts and decide to post my vib/noise accompanied when brake and steering applied.
I too have a vib/noise coming from the front at low speed braking and turning (mostly parking lots and such).
About 5-6 months ago (around 90k miles) I noticed a high squeal at high rpms. I thought it had something to do with the belt so one day while driving up the grapevine pass (I-5), under high rpm, I turned the AC on. The squeal went away, I turn the AC off the squeal came back, I was pretty sure it was the belt and hopefully not the AC compressor.
10k miles later, I finally got to changing the serp belt. After I changed the belt, I immediately heard a rough vibration noise when braking and then when PS is under strain. It seams like it comes and goes when it wanted to, but now its always under the low speed parking lot conditions. Sometimes the vibration can be felt in the floorboards.
I haven't gotten to fix'n it yet lol... as I don't know what the problem is. I'm finding it hard to believe that a serp belt could be the cause of vib/noise when braking/low speed turning. One thing for sure, the vib/noise instantly occurred when I changed the serpentine belt. What might be going on here?
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I have a 01 f250 7.3. Every once and a while when I go to start my truck it make a strange noise, very similar to the sound a vehicle makes when you try and start it while it's running. if I let off the key and try again it will start. Sometime it will do it 2-3 times. So far I have never had it not start after a few tries. Can't seem to put a reason behind when and why it does it. Sometimes it will go weeks without happening, sometimes it will happen twice in a day. Starter is year old but put a cheap one in it. Is it my starter or something else.
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2001 F250 7.3 4x4 330000
So weird noise while breaking but only right at the very end of the breaking cycle or if breaking hard. As soon as you come of the breaks it stops. Changed out front rotors and pads last night thinking that was it but its not. I'm inclined to think it could be the driver rear side by having someone else drive and brake whilst stood by it - rear rotors and pads changed 18 months ago and quick visual check appears they are ok. Just can't work it out - any thoughts? Caliper seemed ok on the front left, but would probably need doing in the next 6 months
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2001 F350 XL... Fitting on PS pump broke and I lost PS and PB with fluid everywhere. Replaced the hose with a new one from Autozone and I have no noticeable leaks.
I know I lost more than a quart but I could only add less than a quart (Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF). I'm also getting a whine from the steering wheel when I turn stop to stop. The power steering is back and there are no leaks (that I see) but the brake pedal is mushy. I've pumped and turned stop to stop for a while. Do I have to bleed the system like I'm doing a fluid flush? I hate to waste the synthetic fluid that I changed about two years ago.
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I went on deployment and handed the wife to crank the truck up she did but didn't drive it so batteries didn't charge back up. I got them charged up and the truck cranked right up. I was plugging it in at night and it would start just fine the next morning. Then a week later batteries kept dying in a few hours during the day. Had to jump it again. then even when plugged in trying to crank it there was a buzzing noise and it would crank but not start. I bought new batteries and it cranked right up and drove fine until I shut it off and same problem and batteries were low again and it will crank but wont turn over. I am thinking maybe alternator.
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Now down to the question in hand. I have a 2001 f350 4x4 with7.3 diesel...I have recently noticed a low grind like noise coming from the right front. I have troubled shot the issue and I am 100% sure it is the wheel hub assembly. Did I mention I am running 37x13.50 tires..and now it is the hubs...and they are the original hubs.. My question is every thing I look for shows ABS is on my truck... I look at the hub and don't see it.. so with the Dana 60 front does it have ABS or not? Also, should I go motorcraft, Timken or moog wheel hubs?
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