Thought batteries were bad and replaced batteries truck started and ran. Shut it off and went to restart 30 minutes later and had no power what so ever like no batteries were in it. Put new batteries on charger the were full so hooked batteries back up and it starts. 10 minutes later same as before like there was no batteries in it. 2001 7.3 464,000 miles
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
View 8 Replies01 7.3 247k.
Yesterday went to get on the freeway I looked back and saw a cloud of what looked like blue smoke. I'm in northern Utah and it's cold but the truck runs fine, I haven't noticed any change in performance. Turbo still builds boost. I pulled the fuel filter cap last night to check fuel color and it was clean.
I do have the CCV mod done. I also pulled to IC Pipe off the turbo and there was a little oil in there but not much, should there be any at all with the CCV mod? Where to start.
So I have noticed that my Batteries have been low each time my truck sits. Also my headlights have been dimming/brightening with acceleration. So I thought my Batteries were going bad. So I did some tests, I let my truck sit over night and tested the Batteries before starting they both were around 11 volts. @ idle no load 12.3, with load 11.7. @ 1500 RPM 14volts. With this I went to autozone and had the Batteries tested and the guy said that they are good but need to be charged and that the alternator was not charging right causing the low Batteries. The Batteries are about 3 years old. So now Im not sure what to do.
View 12 RepliesGot two brand-new Motorcraft batteries installed about a month ago and truck has been cranking great. However, the last couple days in the mornings the truck is starting slow and dragging as if the batteries are going bad. It does crank pretty quick but just has a noticeable starter drag now. Since I have no way of diagnosing the batteries with a tester over the holidays.
What are the odds that brand new batteries are going bad? I was thinking this is a starter issue since the drag is most prominent in the morning but it does it throughout the day while I'm driving driving on each start. But it's not as bad as the first start-up.
I hooked up a scan tool (Forscan and Dash Command) and the only trouble code I received that something to do with the turbo boost pressure fault, it was a code P1247. I don't see how a turbo boost pressure fault, low pressure, could have any starting related issues but you never know. Just a note this code only came up on my FORScan Lite app but it did not come up on the dash command app so I'm not sure if it's a legitimate code.
So I'm back to a battery or starter issue. Is there a way that I can check without much equipment to detect whether not I have a starter or battery problem. I do have a battery charger but no other equipment.
I was driving my truck then all sudden truck started losing power then slowly died. I restarted it, it was a lil shacky then died again. Iunscrewed the fuel filter and looked in the housing and there was lil fuel in bowl i turned the key to on position and bowl did not fill with fuel looked as if it were shooting some bubbles up(air) could it be outta of fuel???
View 10 RepliesA few weeks ago I replaced my CPS on the 99 7.3. Today was the first day I drove my truck in the rain. When I turned my wipers on, I noticed that I lost power and my truck started hiccuping. I read on these forums that an aftermarket CPS is most likely the problem, so I am planning on getting a ford CPS this afternoon. My biggest concern is that before I replaced my CPS, my wipers only had 2 speeds. Also, if I pressed the end of the blinker switch to squirt the cleaner the wipers would not turn off until I turned the truck off. I am not sure why this would be happening and I wanted to ask if there is more than just the CPS involved with this.
View 7 RepliesDriving home from movies tonight, I lost power steering and power brakes and the pump started growling. Looked in the reservoir and it was all foamed up. Within the last 20k mi I have flushed the system and refilled with power steering fluid. No apparent leaks at this time. And happened like someone flipped a switch. Fine one turn, nothing the next. What are the chances this is a fluid issue and not a mechanical one? Start with flushing system and adding Mercon V? Or is it likely pump is damaged?
View 7 RepliesWhile headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
View 6 RepliesLast November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
I have some LED strips i bought, some i am going to install under the door sills to light my nerf bars/steps. The rest i am installing under the bed rail to light the inside of the bed. I want them to come on with the interior lights. So when i hit the unlock button on my key fob, or open the door said lights will come on.
View 7 RepliesI just bought a 2001 F350 diesel with 120k miles on it a couple weeks ago. Friday I headed out to Oregon with my 16 foot enclosed trailer filled with jet skis (about 4-5k pounds) for a competition. A few minutes after being on the freeway I noticed the truck did not have good power. About 30 min later while climbing a steep grade the truck almost went dead.
I started at 60mph and by the time I got to the top i was at 15mph with the throttle pinned. the motor sounded funny and shook the truck more then normal. After wards on the down side of the grade the truck started to act normal. I took it to my buddies house and switched trucks because I didn't trust if for the 13 hour drive.
Today I talked to a mechanic at the dealership and he said that it sounded like injector o-rings to him. I went home, pulled the valve covers and started the motor to see if anything is leaking. steam was coming from the valve area and the down spouts on the injectors was flowing oil. The thing that looked especially abnormal was one of the injectors looked like fuel was dribbling from it. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I couldn't tell if it was fuel or oil but no other injectors had fluid coming out near the wire connections.
Dad has a 01 one ton with the 7.3 and isn't real tech savvy so I'm posting for him. He is the original owner and has been complaining recently about the lack of power. Particularly the upper end. He is having to downshift way more often and where he used to not have to. And we've both noticed a very noticeable shake at idle. Not a vibration but a true shake. He changes the oil every 5000 on the dot and I've gone and changed the air and fuel filter and ran hose and see foam and royal purple injector cleaner through it with no results. Truck is all stock with 225000 on it.
View 7 RepliesI have 01 F550 6spd 4x4. sounds rhythmic, smooth at idle but just over 1200 is a pattern surge but doesn't sound like one cylinder, cel is off, ICP and pigtail changed as it was leaking , no change. From what I've read duty on ICP and IPR should be about same % I've included the codes I've gotten, I have the epc disconnected right now as I thought it was a wastegate issue, checking the ICP plug next,anything I've missed? It had a cyl 8 contribution at idle which I hear is common? Will changing CPS work with that one? Think it's a grey one. There's no water in bowl I replaced filter, since replaced ICP, pigtail, and bleeding fuel bowl and new filter the codes are gone but still misses, will be checking uvch, injector buzz test showed no faults. Old diesel guy said to flood with Stanadyne fuel treat?
View 9 Replies2001 F350 just rebuilt the turbo, did the EBPV delete now no power.
View 5 RepliesI would I have a 01 7.3 e350 with 111k miles. I drove the van a couple of days ago.it sat for 2 days and now it wont go past 30mph.the van shakes crazy and went when i hit the petal no power with smoke coming out the tail pipe sometimes. When I shut the van off and restart it to drive it,it sounds better. I changed the fuel filter with motorcraft and changed the oil. Here is the kicker. It ran good after I changed the fuel filter the whole day and now its 4th of july and I went to get some drinks and it happened again.
View 11 RepliesI drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
I have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
View 8 Replies