Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - Injector Fuel Drain Plug Stripped?
Jan 15, 2016
I am currently doing my injectors. Just a quick question. I was trying to get the fuel rail drain plug out but it stripped, actually not on the driver side stripped. I know there is the drain plug on the back of the cylinder. If I drain that and turn the crank over by hand will that drain all the oil and fuel that has drained into the cylinder? I'm really not trying to bend a rod when I turn this thing over. It's A 2001 7.3
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My fuel bowel drain valve is leaking again. I plan to do the hutch mod in the next month or so. Have the kit already. So I can't do the fuel bowel delete yet. it seems one of the mount holes for the drain Valve is stripped. The top rh screw won't snug up. I swapped out the orings and it still leaks. I'm sure it's from that screw. So I'm thinking about a flange bolt and an oring from the inside of the fuel bowel. It's going to be a temporary fix.
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I tried a steel with rubber insert washer, but it still leaks. I might have overtightened or something. It seemed good for a while. Who has a solution for this leak?
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I broke my radiator drain plug got a replacement but how does the stock one come out? Is there a clip or something?
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Here is what's going on. A few days ago I noticed my oil pressure gauge drop and come back up as I was shifting from reverse to drive. Then a few days later on my way home from work I noticed that when the truck was warmed up and I was stopped at idle the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero and the oil pressure light would come on.. Once I gave it throttle the pressure gauge would go back to normal. After researching for the night the next morning I started the truck cold (around 35 degrees) and watched the oil pressure gauge. It was fine until the temperature came up then once I hit the brake to stop the high idle the gauge dropped to 0 and the oil pressure light came on. If I gave it any throttle the oil pressure would come up to normal but soon as I let off the pressure would drop off again.
I drained the oil, removed the oil cooler, and checked the oil pressure regulator to find it in normal operating condition. My new orings and gaskets won't be here until Monday so I cleaned up for the day. When picking up the oil drain plug I noticed quite a bit of metal shavings on it. I cut open the oil filter and found more shavings in it. Not a bunch but a few in every opening. I have read about a lot of issues where piston cooling jets fall off and cause my issues. I tried hitting the oil pan with a dead blow hammer and listening for the jet but don't hear it. This is the first time I have changed the oil since buying the truck and am wondering if it was found the last time the oil was changed and the reason for them selling the truck. I'm going to put a bore scope through the oil drain plug today and look for the piston cooling jets or anything not normal. Then when the oil cooler gaskets get here I plan to install them and a mechanical oil pressure gauge. To see what the pressure really is.
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Early 99' model I picked up. Blew the oil cooler and had lot of pressure in the Degas bottle, so did head job and oil cooler and now I'm Still getting a P0264. Unplug #8 injector truck almost dies, plug it up and she smooths out...
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I have an 01 F-250 Powerstroke. It has been shaking terribly at around 1500 rpms and shutters while holding the brake and increasing engine speed. I took it to the dealer and they told me that my #1 injector is bad. I decided to check around a little bit. I found a diesel service dealer that has brand new injectors. (Not rebuilts). Anyway I would like to attempt to install this injector myself.
1. Which injector is #1? (I've done a lot of mechanic work but not a whole lot on engines.)
2. What do you do with the fuel and oil that get into the cylinder? Do you have to get it sucked out?
3. Anything else that is crucial? What do you have to torque the injector bolt to?
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I have an '01 F-350 7.3 Turbo diesel. When the engine is cold it chatters quite a bit and after it warms up it still chatters a lot but not as bad. It starts right up every time, even on cold days. Doesn't have a miss and idles smoothly (except for the noise). Seems to run fine with plenty of power, just really noisy. It has an edge programmer on it with 5 settings- Stock, Mileage, Tow, Race, and Extreme. When it is set to stock, mileage or tow, it is pretty noisy but about the same on all 3 settings. When it is set to race or extreme, it sounds like the engine is about to fly apart but has really good power. I never run it in race or extreme because it sounds like it may be hurting the engine.
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I'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
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Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
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I have a 2000 Grand Caravan and had a Chrysler dealer change the oil in July....just took it in today for another oil change and they told me the oil drain plug just turns - either the plug is stripped or the threads on the pan are stripped....I said that they were the ones who changed the oil last time so if anything happened then they did it....they are saying that over time the threads can become stripped - suggesting that if the threads on the oil pan are stripped then I will have to buy a new oil pan.....I said that I had not touched the oil pan so if something is wrong then they are responsible - the threads don't just strip themselves.
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I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
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As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
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Is this job worth doing as a preventative maintenance item? I replaced the rear fuel rail plug (aka banjo bolt) o-rings because they were very easy to get to with the up-pipes out. But the cylinder head plug in the rear is pretty high up and even with the up-pipes out, there isn't enough room to get a breaker in there that's long enough and has enough movement to loosen it. The front would be easier to get to, but both accessory brackets need to come off to get to them on both sides.
As far as I know, none of them leak but they're all 17 years old... BTW in case you haven't been following, I'm doing up-pipes, injectors, turbo, rebuilt HPOP & fuel bowl, boots & clamps, etc. so I'm trying to knock out any PM items while I have it apart.
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I have no ground to glow plug solenoid, wiring is ok right up to the computer. Where I should go from there?
Its a 2001 E450 PSD. glow plugs not coming on at all.
should I be checking an engine temp sensor?
I don't have a wiring diagram so I am going in somewhat blind. ]
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im in the process of replacing the injector cups and i knew this would happen since the whole process went way to easy up until this part. I am using Clays remover kit and it will not remove the cup. I do it according to the book and it just keeps popping out of the cup when i try to remove
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Now ive got a tick tick tick tick sound from the engine. The tick increases and decreases with rpm and is present at idle. If it were a gasser i would say a lifter, honestly it kinda reminds me of a sewing machine lol.
Whatever it is as long as its not serious and my engine is solid im ok w it, I bought this truck knowing I was going to have to put work into it, I just didn't know work was going to go fall one after the other week by week from the day I got it....the previous owner must really have neglected this thing....
Hard to hear it over the sound of the engine, but its there, and is slowly getting worse
[URL]
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Although not certain, I *thought* I saw coolant run into the front drivers side injector hole when the injector was out and I leaned on the radiator hose. I had knowledge t pull them and changing the orings who were initially concerned then not concerned after looking closer.
Either I made a mistake in what I thought I saw on my first experience with injectors, or there really is a problem that I didn't know enough about to address at the time. So I opened this thread to get more info and stop hijacking 67speeda's thread, found here: [URL] ....
As per recommendations, I will check my coolant bottle for any fuel, oil, residue, etc. I am also going to reach out to my buddies and see if they saw a problem with coolant, too, or they realized it wasn't coolant and I didn't take note of it ...
It was a REALLY LONG day and my ability to concentrate had begun to slip quickly (health issues), so it's possible I missed something there. So IF I saw coolant going into that cylinder with the injector removed, how bad would that be? I thought it came from pretty high up and ran down where the injector sits..
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Ok yesterday while driving my truck the glow plug light came on couple times and lost power but the light would turn off and power came back. It has done this before and it was the injector harness grounding out on the engine. I replaced that last time. I checked over the knew one and did not see any chaffing on the harness.
Now this morning I go outside to start it and I can hear my fuel pump and vacuum pump but injectors wouldn't cycle. It has also done this before but I could never figure out why. Last time I tore into it checking through my wiring harness and couldn't find anything. When I put it back together it started fine.
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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Story starts when I was cruising down the freeway and the truck cut out, seemed like a CPS or Injector related issue - seemed like a whole cylinder bank cut out. Stopped truck on shoulder, she shuttered and died. Turned truck off and restarted, ran like a top for about 4 miles then did the same again. I restarted it again and drive it straight home, ran like it I usually did.
As soon as I arrived home I did a little research and learned to start with CPS. I replaced my grey CPS with a new, Ford grey CPS. Truck fired up, ran the same that it did before - not the best idle but at 302k I was content. Drove it for a few days and it did it again, hobbled the truck home, although it did do it a few times and the last time it did it was really hard to start.
I replaced the IDM through NAPA. She's a work truck so I wasn't going to splurge for a Swamp Unit, the NAPA one came with an 18-Month Warrenty. She started right up afterward, the smoothest idle I had ever felt and she ran great, except for an SES. I ran the code and it was an IDM code, ran a buzz test and it pulled injector #5 high/low error, but it buzzed (a bit quieter than the others).
Here's the weirdest part, when the motor is cold the SES is constant, but as it warms up it only shows under power and sometimes flashes off at certain RPMs (1700-1900 and 2100-2300) and turns off when engine braking (TC locked) returns at idle. NO engine lights with the old IDM. I've checked the wiring to the injector from the 42-pin to the outer connector. (.6-.7 ohms, what my meter reads without any loads) Injector (from outer connector) reads 3.2 ohms. UVCH is less then 2 months old (GP issues) injectors have less than 5k on them.
Why? New injector solenoid? Bad IDM? Is it possible my last one never fired #5 and it got stuck? Or did my old IDM fry #5? Also I'm going to keep driving it and maybe it'll clear up, there was one drive I took where it cleared up completely. I've done some extensive research on this an i'm stumped. With the new IDM the truck has run better then it ever has.
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