Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F350 Dies When Hit The Throttle
Aug 20, 2017
My truck will set an idle fine but when I hit the throttle it will die.
View 3 RepliesMy truck will set an idle fine but when I hit the throttle it will die.
View 3 RepliesI've done everything I can think of, ive replace the starter, batteries and altenator, both batteries have at least 12.30 volts when taken out and checked, but i turn the key and it will have power then try to start and whole system dies and wont come back on, I've cleaned the terminals and posts to shiny and the ground connections but its still not getting power.
View 1 Replies2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
2000 F-350 7.3L no gauges or throttle, I checked the fuses and no luck....
View 4 RepliesHere's the situation - 1999 F350 with the 7.3 PSD, crew cab, auto, 4X4.
The truck runs fine in good weather, but if it's raining or snowing, it will suddenly die - and by that I mean lose all power as though you turned off the key. There's no warning. It lasts for a period of time, and then the truck will restart - most of the time.
It's seems like it should be a pretty simple/obvious electrical problem, but I've had the truck in to two of the best diesel shops in town, and neither has been able to locate the problem, in spite of countless hours and some pretty big bills being racked up.
I finally got my 02 F350 running again after replacing the Fried PCM, but during some additional shop prep work, I discovered that the engine dies when you use the horn button, it will start right up afterwards so no permanent damage, but, Where to start? I have Forscan and a cable so I can get into the PCM but I need to know where to look or what PIDS I should be watching during troubleshooting.
View 6 Replies(2000 F-350, 7.3L, 205k miles) Over this weekend, I noticed while driving mostly in the lower gears, that there was a slight hesitation with the throttle pedal depressed about half way or less. Seem to get worse as the day went by, but no lights or anything came on. Changed the fuel filter and added a fuel injection cleaner to the tank. Checked the oil and it was low, so I filled it to the correct amount.
Drove it around the next day, and it seemed to be good, until it warmed up some, and continued to hesitate. The hesitation seems as if it's not getting constant fuel, and the truck jerks a little. Once you get up to over 2000 rpms, it goes away. Looking up other reviews on similar issues, most have pointed to the throttle pedal sensor and just changed out the pedal assembly. Before I take it that far, I wanted to see what was the corrective action.
2001 Ford Excursion 7.3 will run barely for about 20 sec. shudders, then dies. Bought new, driven 334K miles. Performed the usual fixes common to 7.3 issues over the years. All original injectors except for #7 which I replaced about 5 yrs ago. (I know should have replaced in sets but not in the budget at the time). Anyway had my wife turn the engine over after I had removed valve covers for inspection and observed a lot of smoke coming out of what appears to be at or around number 7 rocker arm valley? All rocker arm/pushrods look to be moving as they should beyond that I'm in over my head. Am I screwed or could it possibly just be a bad injector/injectors?
View 12 Replies2001 SD F-250 SuperCrew 4WD, 7.3L (completely stock), 114K miles, automatic
We took Dad's SD for a 600-mile trip yesterday and today. The oil had 2000 miles on it, and we checked it before we left. The oil level was half-way down the hatch-mark, so we had added a little over a quart of oil to top it off, and I think that we may have added a little too much. Last night, when we got to the hotel and got out of the truck while it idled, a lot of white smoke that smelled like burning oil (like when you spill oil on an exhaust manifold) was fogging out of the exhaust.
It did this for a minute or two, then cleared up. All day today, on the way home (300 miles), about every time that I let off of the throttle either going down the interstate or stopping at a red light or stop sign, white smoke would pour out of the exhaust briefly, then stop when accelerating or in the throttle going down the road. What is causing this? Would too much oil (a little over a quart too full) make it smoke like this? The truck runs strong, starts and idles good, and no 'check engine' lights came on the dash.
I just bought a 2001 F350 diesel with 120k miles on it a couple weeks ago. Friday I headed out to Oregon with my 16 foot enclosed trailer filled with jet skis (about 4-5k pounds) for a competition. A few minutes after being on the freeway I noticed the truck did not have good power. About 30 min later while climbing a steep grade the truck almost went dead.
I started at 60mph and by the time I got to the top i was at 15mph with the throttle pinned. the motor sounded funny and shook the truck more then normal. After wards on the down side of the grade the truck started to act normal. I took it to my buddies house and switched trucks because I didn't trust if for the 13 hour drive.
Today I talked to a mechanic at the dealership and he said that it sounded like injector o-rings to him. I went home, pulled the valve covers and started the motor to see if anything is leaking. steam was coming from the valve area and the down spouts on the injectors was flowing oil. The thing that looked especially abnormal was one of the injectors looked like fuel was dribbling from it. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I couldn't tell if it was fuel or oil but no other injectors had fluid coming out near the wire connections.
2001 F350 just rebuilt the turbo, did the EBPV delete now no power.
View 5 RepliesThe other day I had been driving about 3 hours and truck went dead then back on, it happened two more times in about 30 minutes.
(2001 F 350 Dually 7.3 A/T 2 wd.)
I have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
I have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
My one owner 2001 7.3l F350 w/ 265K miles died a few days ago at a traffic light. First time it has ever died on me other than a CPS. This dying was an almost instantaneous with no CEL light, unlike the CPS's hiccuping and dash light up. I put it in park and it started right back up like normal. I continued about my errands and made it home. I have since driven it two more times the same distance and it has not died.
What I have done on this truck the past year.
-Replaced ICP -3/14
-Rebuilt IPR and checked IPR plug -6/14
-Replaced fuel filter every 7500 miles and I am probably due another one of those now
-Replaced air filter - 4/15
-Cleaned out both the sensor and the exhaust back pressure tube
-replaced CPS w/ dark blue unit from RiffRaff in -8/14
-checked main harness over driver valve cover and placed a piece of heavy duty wire cover wrap where they touch the valve cover -8/14
UVWH replace in 2008
Have a new IPR and pigtail coming just because I wanted to eliminate a bad solenoid on it. I also have a Torque Pro w/ blue tooth adapter on an LG tablet that I have yet to set up....but am working on it Will the truck throw any codes if the CEL didn't light up?
I change my motor in my 01 f350 ccsb to a forged rod one from a 97. When I put the thing in my inexperience cause me to screw up my torque converter in turn ruining my transmission. So after a rebuild I put it back in and she fit like a glove. Ever since I put the engine in i get a vibration at idle.
After I realize I screwed up the torque converter I figured that was the cause of the vibration. But now I know the trans is in properly I still have this vibration I'm thinking it's the position of the motor. I installed new motor mounts when I put the motor in but they were quite a bit off from the original points on the cross member.
My only idea to rectify this was to reinstall the original ones and try to position the motor back where it was prior to the engine swap. Or should I be looking elsewhere?
I've replaced the alternator and starter recently and both batteries and the truck ran fine befor that. But it sat for roughly 2 months and now it seems as if its not getting fuel. Will start with a shot of ether but will die as soon at it burns it off
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 4x4. My transmission went out a while back. It would only go in reverse. I had it rebuilt and it is still having issues. When I take off with speed from a dead stop it shifts late...about 3000 RPMs. It shifts fine until it shifts into overdrive. It will go into to 4th then right into overdrive causing the truck to act sluggish.
I'm looking into my truck not starting well at any temp too! I didn't know if it could all be connected some how. My mechanic said that when he first started my truck it had a MAP sensor code. He also said that when he unplugged that sensor it didn't change the way the truck ran..Still like crap. I have changed all glow plugs relays and even did the mod to it.
I have been having problems with my truck for about 6 months now. It start in Sept when my fuel pump went. I got a new pump and went to change it just to have the back clip break off. I fixed the line after getting 2nd degree burns from the boiling water I had to use to expand the line and installed the new fuel pump. Didn't fix anything.
At this point is was dropping below freezing every night ( I live in Canada in the mountains) so I thought it might be my plug relay again... changed that. After that my started has always missed so I figured I would change it out and sure enough the power bolt on the starter was broken. Changed it.
Then it started smoking and I read up on the quarter trick so I figured why not try that. I checked everything and they all checked fine but I am a glutton for punishment and figured I would do that valve cover gasket. So opened it up to find one of my glow plug wires on my harness was burnt up. I have a spare truck for parts so I grabbed the wire and replaced it. Still no change.
Today it was spitting out the usually raw diesel that I have gotten use to but when I was opening the gate to get a manlift for work I smelt oil just to find my turbo coved and the V had a small pool of oil happening there. I added 4L of oil and tightened up my valve cover back bolt on the passenger side... it may have fixed the leak but didn't have time to check.
I backed up to the manlift and it lagged a bit so I gave it a pump of the peddle and it died. Now it won't start. Charged batteries and tried after it cooled down but still no go.
In short my truck has been smoking for about 4 months now. It shutters at low RPM and stalls at the bottom of hills if I gear down on the hill (we have really steep hills around here). I have changed my oil three times in the last 6 months but it keeps coming out black (which it always has). No water in fuel or oil. Once and awhile it had problems starting when it was warm but after bellowing out massive amounts of smoke it would start. The truck turns over but wont start. There is no power where it died so I have to come home and charge the batteries every time they get low but even after it cooled down it still wouldn't start.