Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F350 Died While At A Stoplight
Aug 4, 2015
My one owner 2001 7.3l F350 w/ 265K miles died a few days ago at a traffic light. First time it has ever died on me other than a CPS. This dying was an almost instantaneous with no CEL light, unlike the CPS's hiccuping and dash light up. I put it in park and it started right back up like normal. I continued about my errands and made it home. I have since driven it two more times the same distance and it has not died.
What I have done on this truck the past year.
-Replaced ICP -3/14
-Rebuilt IPR and checked IPR plug -6/14
-Replaced fuel filter every 7500 miles and I am probably due another one of those now
-Replaced air filter - 4/15
-Cleaned out both the sensor and the exhaust back pressure tube
-replaced CPS w/ dark blue unit from RiffRaff in -8/14
-checked main harness over driver valve cover and placed a piece of heavy duty wire cover wrap where they touch the valve cover -8/14
UVWH replace in 2008
Have a new IPR and pigtail coming just because I wanted to eliminate a bad solenoid on it. I also have a Torque Pro w/ blue tooth adapter on an LG tablet that I have yet to set up....but am working on it Will the truck throw any codes if the CEL didn't light up?
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I have been having problems with my truck for about 6 months now. It start in Sept when my fuel pump went. I got a new pump and went to change it just to have the back clip break off. I fixed the line after getting 2nd degree burns from the boiling water I had to use to expand the line and installed the new fuel pump. Didn't fix anything.
At this point is was dropping below freezing every night ( I live in Canada in the mountains) so I thought it might be my plug relay again... changed that. After that my started has always missed so I figured I would change it out and sure enough the power bolt on the starter was broken. Changed it.
Then it started smoking and I read up on the quarter trick so I figured why not try that. I checked everything and they all checked fine but I am a glutton for punishment and figured I would do that valve cover gasket. So opened it up to find one of my glow plug wires on my harness was burnt up. I have a spare truck for parts so I grabbed the wire and replaced it. Still no change.
Today it was spitting out the usually raw diesel that I have gotten use to but when I was opening the gate to get a manlift for work I smelt oil just to find my turbo coved and the V had a small pool of oil happening there. I added 4L of oil and tightened up my valve cover back bolt on the passenger side... it may have fixed the leak but didn't have time to check.
I backed up to the manlift and it lagged a bit so I gave it a pump of the peddle and it died. Now it won't start. Charged batteries and tried after it cooled down but still no go.
In short my truck has been smoking for about 4 months now. It shutters at low RPM and stalls at the bottom of hills if I gear down on the hill (we have really steep hills around here). I have changed my oil three times in the last 6 months but it keeps coming out black (which it always has). No water in fuel or oil. Once and awhile it had problems starting when it was warm but after bellowing out massive amounts of smoke it would start. The truck turns over but wont start. There is no power where it died so I have to come home and charge the batteries every time they get low but even after it cooled down it still wouldn't start.
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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While driving my 99 F350 7.3 it died and I was lucky enough to coast home. No WTS light, no tach movement when cranking, no fuel pump, no CEL, Cranks great but no smoke or fire. New CPS & PCM still no lights or tach. Moved relays checked all fuses. WTF is wrong?
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My 01 4x4 F350CCD was having this "issue" where, after leaving it plugged in all night, I would start it up with no problems but then after idling for maybe 15-30 seconds it would just fade out and shut off. The first few times I would hit the key again and it would crank for an extended period but then refire and it would idle normally. Eventually I learned that if I held the idle up at around 1000 I could see the rpm drop slightly after starting but it wouldn't shut off.
About a week ago I started the truck and wasn't paying attention and didn't hold the throttle open and the truck shut off. This time after cranking it (probably way to much) it wouldn't start at all. I changed the fuel filter but that did nothing. I also notice that the tach does move to around 500 or so when cranking. I have not changed the CPS but a new one had been installed in May 2015. The engine is cranking but there is no white smoke or even attempt to fire.
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2001 f250 7.3 with 210,000 miles. Was running rough when cold and glow plugs were bad so I bought new glow plugs and had injectors rebuilt with 100% over stock nozzles. When I changed them I made sure I turned the motor with glow plugs out and pulled the drain plug in the head. Wanted to start it just to get the oil out before I let it sit for a few days til I got the tuner. It started fine and I let it run while I ran in the house and when I came back out about 1 min later it was off. Didn't want to start again. Just left it til I got the tuner on and It still doesn't want to start. What I should check? Turns over good and has good batteries. Also it's a hydra chip tuner with beans tunes. Darren weeks rebuilt the injectors.
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I have a 2001 f350 dually diesel, I was driving it with no problem and all of the Sudden it die when I was checking the problem I not that the fuse for the diesel pump was blown immediately I replaced it and as soon I turn the key on it blew it right away I fol the wires from the pump to the fuse box and there is no wires grounding so maybe I can get a little bit of info to find the source of the problem
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Well, truck is throwing me for a new loop the day I pick it up from the body shop (crazy, right?). I started out driving it and had a blue haze - I figured it had some air left in the system from doing my injectors so I left it and it cleared up after about 20 miles. I noticed that my SES light came on while idling at a stoplight, but went off when I took off. Figured it was a fluke and kept on getting on.
Well, next light it does the same thing - idle the light is on, take off the light is off. Reading the code yields P1316 - so I pull over and running a buzz test to fetch the IDM codes. Guess what? No codes. All sounded fine, so this is where I got really confused as I'm getting huge mixed signals from this truck suddenly.
As I got to watching my gauges, I noticed that I was idling around 10.8 IPRDC and 530-560 ICP, and when I would get about 16-18 IPRDC the code would go away. Did a near-WOT run when getting on interstate as a test to see how it'd do, and saw IPRDC get up to 98% - the highest I have EVER seen it get on this truck (no idea if it is related or not). I have a log from moving around the lot that I will try and upload soon.
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I just bought a 2001 F350 diesel with 120k miles on it a couple weeks ago. Friday I headed out to Oregon with my 16 foot enclosed trailer filled with jet skis (about 4-5k pounds) for a competition. A few minutes after being on the freeway I noticed the truck did not have good power. About 30 min later while climbing a steep grade the truck almost went dead.
I started at 60mph and by the time I got to the top i was at 15mph with the throttle pinned. the motor sounded funny and shook the truck more then normal. After wards on the down side of the grade the truck started to act normal. I took it to my buddies house and switched trucks because I didn't trust if for the 13 hour drive.
Today I talked to a mechanic at the dealership and he said that it sounded like injector o-rings to him. I went home, pulled the valve covers and started the motor to see if anything is leaking. steam was coming from the valve area and the down spouts on the injectors was flowing oil. The thing that looked especially abnormal was one of the injectors looked like fuel was dribbling from it. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I couldn't tell if it was fuel or oil but no other injectors had fluid coming out near the wire connections.
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2001 F350 just rebuilt the turbo, did the EBPV delete now no power.
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The other day I had been driving about 3 hours and truck went dead then back on, it happened two more times in about 30 minutes.
(2001 F 350 Dually 7.3 A/T 2 wd.)
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I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
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I have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
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I change my motor in my 01 f350 ccsb to a forged rod one from a 97. When I put the thing in my inexperience cause me to screw up my torque converter in turn ruining my transmission. So after a rebuild I put it back in and she fit like a glove. Ever since I put the engine in i get a vibration at idle.
After I realize I screwed up the torque converter I figured that was the cause of the vibration. But now I know the trans is in properly I still have this vibration I'm thinking it's the position of the motor. I installed new motor mounts when I put the motor in but they were quite a bit off from the original points on the cross member.
My only idea to rectify this was to reinstall the original ones and try to position the motor back where it was prior to the engine swap. Or should I be looking elsewhere?
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I've replaced the alternator and starter recently and both batteries and the truck ran fine befor that. But it sat for roughly 2 months and now it seems as if its not getting fuel. Will start with a shot of ether but will die as soon at it burns it off
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I have a 2001 F350 4x4. My transmission went out a while back. It would only go in reverse. I had it rebuilt and it is still having issues. When I take off with speed from a dead stop it shifts late...about 3000 RPMs. It shifts fine until it shifts into overdrive. It will go into to 4th then right into overdrive causing the truck to act sluggish.
I'm looking into my truck not starting well at any temp too! I didn't know if it could all be connected some how. My mechanic said that when he first started my truck it had a MAP sensor code. He also said that when he unplugged that sensor it didn't change the way the truck ran..Still like crap. I have changed all glow plugs relays and even did the mod to it.
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My truck will set an idle fine but when I hit the throttle it will die.
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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Where I can get the head light to fog light wiring harness..it is almost as hard as finding the holly grail..... 2001 f350 7.3 .......
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