Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F350 Transmission Went Out A While Back
Feb 3, 2016
I have a 2001 F350 4x4. My transmission went out a while back. It would only go in reverse. I had it rebuilt and it is still having issues. When I take off with speed from a dead stop it shifts late...about 3000 RPMs. It shifts fine until it shifts into overdrive. It will go into to 4th then right into overdrive causing the truck to act sluggish.
I'm looking into my truck not starting well at any temp too! I didn't know if it could all be connected some how. My mechanic said that when he first started my truck it had a MAP sensor code. He also said that when he unplugged that sensor it didn't change the way the truck ran..Still like crap. I have changed all glow plugs relays and even did the mod to it.
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I've done everything I can think of, ive replace the starter, batteries and altenator, both batteries have at least 12.30 volts when taken out and checked, but i turn the key and it will have power then try to start and whole system dies and wont come back on, I've cleaned the terminals and posts to shiny and the ground connections but its still not getting power.
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my parents have a f350 which now has no reverse. it has a reman sticker on it, 230k on the truck but no idea on mileage on the tranny. shifts 1st through 4th fine, no slip. Tc lockup works just fine. No codes found with my solus scanner. When shifted in reverse it will move back about 2 ft if revved above 2k and then nothing. Am I looking a trans rebuild or is there something I can check and repair with in it the truck?
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I am having trouble with my 1999 F350 Ford Powerstroke, Looses power but the motor never quits and also starts up fine, will set and run and warm up on the coldest morningIdles fine, It will hold back sometimes and not increase speed. I can take it out today and it may be fine and tomorrow can't run 2 miles. I was thinking CPS but after reading information I am not sure. What may be causing this issue. I just put a High Pressure oil pump on it could this have anything to do with it. Was not having a problem before the pump was changed. The pickup has 190,000 on it actual miles.
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion 4x4 7.3 with 230K miles, around 15,000 miles ago I replaced the transmission with a rebuilt 4R100, lately I have noticed a leak towards the back end where the transmission and the transfer case connects. Some of the bolts on the bottom of the pan have ATF on them, some others however do not. I have had to add a quart of ATF in the past couple of days in order for it to engage into drive when going from Park to Drive. I have to rev it before it actually kicks in. I'm hoping the leak is just being caused by a gasket either in the pan or connecting the trans to the transfer case..
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I will start off with saying I am posting this for my dad. His truck is a 1999 F350 crew cab DRW 4x4 auto 7.3 with about 189K miles on it. He is leaving wednesday on a cross country road trip pulling a 40FT 5th wheel (no idea the weight but the thing is huge). He has glowshift gauges installed, one of which is the trans temp gauge. I believe the transmissions on these are 4R100, but I am not positive about that, but I'm sure many people here will know. He just told me that he had the mechanic he goes to replace the pan gasket on the transmission because it leaked quite a bit, just as a precaution. He also had them replace the brake booster as it was leaking inside by the brake pedal. When he got it back, he said he was driving it, and the temperature started going up to I believe 220 degrees not pulling anything. He said since he installed the gauges it has been between 180-190, and it jumped to 220.
What this could be. I have read that the TFT sensor can cause this issue, but it would throw a code and possibly go into limp mode. He has no check engine light and it was driving just fine. So the temperature is just all of a sudden high. Fluid level is fine, was checked after about an hour of driving, is red, and doesn't smell bad. I am suspecting the temperature isn't actually hotter, so there is another issue. It's only a big deal now because in a few days he will be dragging a huge 5th wheel behind him.
Last year, we towed some pile of crap 5th wheel down to our city for somebody with his truck, and we had to pull over halfway back because it started to smell like something burning. We think it was the trailer, as the brakes were questionable on them. When we got it to the people we were delivering it to, when we left, it wouldn't shift passed 2nd gear. He only lived a few miles from there, so he drove it home, parked it, then went out the next day and it was fine. He had the fluid flushed later and that issue hasn't come back since. No other work was performed on it since the pan gasket a few days ago. I am not sure if they are related being a year apart, but figured I'd mention it anyways.
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2002 F 350 7.3 4x4
Aftermarket gauge will climb to 250 after around town driving of an hour or so or multiple trips within the hour. Not towing. 160,000 miles on odometer. Changed trans fluid at 40,000 mile intervals. Most recently about 1500 miles ago. Most recent change using Mark K's method. Was getting fluid from rear port when I changed fluid. Blew out oil cooler and there did not seem to be a blockage as flow was sufficient.
Still overheating according to autometer trans gauge in test port. No codes retrieved using auto-ingenuity also O/ D light is not flashing. Would like to run torque converter slip test using AE according to wooden things method but TC slip desired and transmission gear ratio is not available under that name in live data meter. AE just updated to most recent version.
I purchased a new tranny oil bypass and will install soon. Also purchased a new 6.0 cooler to replace stocker but am hesitant to install if tranny is failing because I am concerned that the new cooler will just get some blockage from a potentially failing transmission and I will be buying a new cooler along with a BTS rebuild.
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I've never had a drop of fluid leak from my transmission until yesterday. I towed a very heavy trailer (10k or so with tons of tongue weight) about 300 miles and I got back and noticed a decent amount of fluid leaking. The transmission temperature never went over 160 on the drive. I know these transmissions tend to puke oil sometimes, but doesn't that only happen when they overheat, or would a very heavy trailer have the same symptom?
It appears the leak is coming from somewhere near the back of the pan around the gasket. More specifically, it seems the one bolt pictured below is leaking. All bolts are tight and the pan gasket was replaced about 6k ago with the last fluid flush.
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I have a 02 f350 4x4 6 SPD one of my transmission lines has went bad is there anywhere that sales them.
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I just bought a 2001 F350 diesel with 120k miles on it a couple weeks ago. Friday I headed out to Oregon with my 16 foot enclosed trailer filled with jet skis (about 4-5k pounds) for a competition. A few minutes after being on the freeway I noticed the truck did not have good power. About 30 min later while climbing a steep grade the truck almost went dead.
I started at 60mph and by the time I got to the top i was at 15mph with the throttle pinned. the motor sounded funny and shook the truck more then normal. After wards on the down side of the grade the truck started to act normal. I took it to my buddies house and switched trucks because I didn't trust if for the 13 hour drive.
Today I talked to a mechanic at the dealership and he said that it sounded like injector o-rings to him. I went home, pulled the valve covers and started the motor to see if anything is leaking. steam was coming from the valve area and the down spouts on the injectors was flowing oil. The thing that looked especially abnormal was one of the injectors looked like fuel was dribbling from it. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I couldn't tell if it was fuel or oil but no other injectors had fluid coming out near the wire connections.
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2001 F350 just rebuilt the turbo, did the EBPV delete now no power.
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The other day I had been driving about 3 hours and truck went dead then back on, it happened two more times in about 30 minutes.
(2001 F 350 Dually 7.3 A/T 2 wd.)
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I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
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I have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
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My one owner 2001 7.3l F350 w/ 265K miles died a few days ago at a traffic light. First time it has ever died on me other than a CPS. This dying was an almost instantaneous with no CEL light, unlike the CPS's hiccuping and dash light up. I put it in park and it started right back up like normal. I continued about my errands and made it home. I have since driven it two more times the same distance and it has not died.
What I have done on this truck the past year.
-Replaced ICP -3/14
-Rebuilt IPR and checked IPR plug -6/14
-Replaced fuel filter every 7500 miles and I am probably due another one of those now
-Replaced air filter - 4/15
-Cleaned out both the sensor and the exhaust back pressure tube
-replaced CPS w/ dark blue unit from RiffRaff in -8/14
-checked main harness over driver valve cover and placed a piece of heavy duty wire cover wrap where they touch the valve cover -8/14
UVWH replace in 2008
Have a new IPR and pigtail coming just because I wanted to eliminate a bad solenoid on it. I also have a Torque Pro w/ blue tooth adapter on an LG tablet that I have yet to set up....but am working on it Will the truck throw any codes if the CEL didn't light up?
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I change my motor in my 01 f350 ccsb to a forged rod one from a 97. When I put the thing in my inexperience cause me to screw up my torque converter in turn ruining my transmission. So after a rebuild I put it back in and she fit like a glove. Ever since I put the engine in i get a vibration at idle.
After I realize I screwed up the torque converter I figured that was the cause of the vibration. But now I know the trans is in properly I still have this vibration I'm thinking it's the position of the motor. I installed new motor mounts when I put the motor in but they were quite a bit off from the original points on the cross member.
My only idea to rectify this was to reinstall the original ones and try to position the motor back where it was prior to the engine swap. Or should I be looking elsewhere?
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I've replaced the alternator and starter recently and both batteries and the truck ran fine befor that. But it sat for roughly 2 months and now it seems as if its not getting fuel. Will start with a shot of ether but will die as soon at it burns it off
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I have been having problems with my truck for about 6 months now. It start in Sept when my fuel pump went. I got a new pump and went to change it just to have the back clip break off. I fixed the line after getting 2nd degree burns from the boiling water I had to use to expand the line and installed the new fuel pump. Didn't fix anything.
At this point is was dropping below freezing every night ( I live in Canada in the mountains) so I thought it might be my plug relay again... changed that. After that my started has always missed so I figured I would change it out and sure enough the power bolt on the starter was broken. Changed it.
Then it started smoking and I read up on the quarter trick so I figured why not try that. I checked everything and they all checked fine but I am a glutton for punishment and figured I would do that valve cover gasket. So opened it up to find one of my glow plug wires on my harness was burnt up. I have a spare truck for parts so I grabbed the wire and replaced it. Still no change.
Today it was spitting out the usually raw diesel that I have gotten use to but when I was opening the gate to get a manlift for work I smelt oil just to find my turbo coved and the V had a small pool of oil happening there. I added 4L of oil and tightened up my valve cover back bolt on the passenger side... it may have fixed the leak but didn't have time to check.
I backed up to the manlift and it lagged a bit so I gave it a pump of the peddle and it died. Now it won't start. Charged batteries and tried after it cooled down but still no go.
In short my truck has been smoking for about 4 months now. It shutters at low RPM and stalls at the bottom of hills if I gear down on the hill (we have really steep hills around here). I have changed my oil three times in the last 6 months but it keeps coming out black (which it always has). No water in fuel or oil. Once and awhile it had problems starting when it was warm but after bellowing out massive amounts of smoke it would start. The truck turns over but wont start. There is no power where it died so I have to come home and charge the batteries every time they get low but even after it cooled down it still wouldn't start.
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My truck will set an idle fine but when I hit the throttle it will die.
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I was out with the F350, drw, automatic, 7.3, 4 x 4, yesterday about 30 miles from home base. The transmission started pumping fluid out the front like I have never seen before. I am not talking a drip, I am talking a stream, a big one..... almost like pouring coffee from a coffee pot. I noticed it when I was backing into unload and was leaving an oil trail, a quite obvious one.
We took off the tc cover as it was coming off that to find a dry tc and flywheel, but fluid running out off the case. This is the second time this trans left me high and dry in 165k miles. The first time was a stripped tc/ input shaft. We repaired the transmission then but I don't think we replaced much besides being sure no debris went though everything, fixed what was broken. That was about 25,000 miles ago.
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