I was wondering about swapping out the short OH console on a 2001 F350 Lariat with the longer one that has two doors for a garage opener etc? Are the clips on the base plate the same? I see the longer console shells on e bay for a little over 100 bucks which seems like a no brainer if it snaps in place of the shorty. Looks like the temp and compass slots are identical.
View 4 RepliesI know that this horse has been beaten to death but after searching all the posts and web. I have recently aquired an overhead console and wiring harness from a 2000 F250 and want to install it in my 2001 F250 which did not come with one. The connector behind the passenger kickplate is different so I assume I'll be doing some wire splicing. After reading all the previous posts, I'm unable to find old bird. Apparently he's not around anymore. Looking for the template/wiring instructions for this retrofit?
View 3 RepliesJust bought a 03 F-350 dually today. 6L 4x4.
Headlights don't work , everything else does? Dash lights , taillights , cab marker lights all work. Headlights and front park lights don't?
I also see the overhead console is dead and shows nothing? Plus the ignition turns without a key being in it?
A while ago (1 yr) I read and did the pull the wire thing to keep the lie o meter bright all the time. It worked fine, but all of a sudden it seems dim. I can barely read it in the day time. Fine at night. Could it be that the LED's are starting to fail, or some other weirdness? How to remove the overhead console?
View 12 RepliesI just started having an issue on my 01 7.3 f350 with 203k miles, it will crank much longer then normal to start. If you shut it off then try to restart right away it starts normal, if you wait 10 minutes long crank again. if you shut it off and turn key back on but don't start it you can wait an hour then start right away. IDM bad? Vacation in 2 weeks and I would like to get this fixed first.
View 14 RepliesBought a 2004 f350 lariat last fall. Overhead console was missing. Finally got around to replacing the display. Temp, compass works fine, but mileage and distance to empty are way off. Display typically shows 13.5mpg but when manually calculating am usually closer to 17. Distance to empty is way off as well. I did some research but didn't find much on how to recalibrate it. No difference with or without tunes.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 7.3 auto 4x4 SD ... has done 616000kms and is getting a bit rattily and injectors are getting tired . Have found a 2001 7.3 engine that has 130000 miles on clock . Will the 2001 engine fit into my truck .... e.g.. bell housing and crank bolt spacing's, mounts for all the bolt on bits ... is it quicker to take engine and box out or just engine ?? have even read on here that body removal is necessary .have a forklift and workshop available
View 2 RepliesI got a friend of mine that owns a 2000 F350 7.3 with around 280,000 miles. He said that the past 2 days its been turning over longer then normal before it fires. Once started, engine runs same as it always has. No sputtering or hesitations, idles fine, etc. However today, he drove to work, shut it off, then went to start it back up 10 or so mins later and now it will only turn over. Said he's getting fuel and compression is good. Unfortunately i dont know much about Diesel engines.
View 2 RepliesCEL - code escaping me but it said #7 glow plug (ordered a scantool yesterday).
Shifting - its at lowest been in the 30's and the truck has issues shifting until its warm. Its wierd, its like the water temp gauge stays at cold, then snaps up and shifting is fine from then on. Takes what I think is a long time to get there, not a gradual temp change, just like click and the gauge is on.
Lots of electrical looking issues, maybe all tied together?
- Shut doors sometimes flashers blink
- Overhead console no longer lights up
- Door ajar and overhead lights on when doors are tight
- more oddities but I can't think of them now
Ok I've got an 01 F250 sd 7.3 with 257k on it it just started talking longer to start than it should it will do it cold or hot even if I shut it off at the drive thru takes it like 10 sec or more to fire. My question is I thought about purchasing a autoenginuity to find the problem but not sure the best place to get and what model I should get.
View 7 Replies2004 6.0 lariat ... The compass on my overhead console has gone dead or at least doesn't show anything other than sometimes calibrating ... All other functions miles to empty etc work fine just the compass feature ...
View 2 RepliesJust did an interior conversion to my truck from xlt to lariat. I installed a new headliner with the overhead console, took the kick plate off where if it existed would be. Found the harness to plug into but noticed it only had a thicker black wire coming out of it, the harness for the overhead console had around 12 or 13 wires. I don't have a volt meter to test the wire on the truck side. But beings this is my first time installing an overhead console I'm not sure what hardware I need or what I'm doing wrong. Did research on the Internet and there's not much on installing overhead consoles. All I've seen were repairing the circuit board which visually checked and didn't see any cracked solders.
View 3 RepliesGot an 03 f250 supercab, and looking to get rid of the old front bench seat for 2 regular front seats and installing a big middle console, will this be kinda hard? I got in my truck now the driver seat is seperate from the 2 seater bench seat and it has the flip down middle console to where you can flip it up for somebody to sit in the middle or flip it down for the cup holders etc.. I want to get rid of that and just have the 2 front seats and an big middle console. I think some of the 1998-2003 f150 come with this set up
View 3 RepliesI just bought a 2001 F350 diesel with 120k miles on it a couple weeks ago. Friday I headed out to Oregon with my 16 foot enclosed trailer filled with jet skis (about 4-5k pounds) for a competition. A few minutes after being on the freeway I noticed the truck did not have good power. About 30 min later while climbing a steep grade the truck almost went dead.
I started at 60mph and by the time I got to the top i was at 15mph with the throttle pinned. the motor sounded funny and shook the truck more then normal. After wards on the down side of the grade the truck started to act normal. I took it to my buddies house and switched trucks because I didn't trust if for the 13 hour drive.
Today I talked to a mechanic at the dealership and he said that it sounded like injector o-rings to him. I went home, pulled the valve covers and started the motor to see if anything is leaking. steam was coming from the valve area and the down spouts on the injectors was flowing oil. The thing that looked especially abnormal was one of the injectors looked like fuel was dribbling from it. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I couldn't tell if it was fuel or oil but no other injectors had fluid coming out near the wire connections.
2001 F350 just rebuilt the turbo, did the EBPV delete now no power.
View 5 RepliesThe other day I had been driving about 3 hours and truck went dead then back on, it happened two more times in about 30 minutes.
(2001 F 350 Dually 7.3 A/T 2 wd.)
I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
I have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
My one owner 2001 7.3l F350 w/ 265K miles died a few days ago at a traffic light. First time it has ever died on me other than a CPS. This dying was an almost instantaneous with no CEL light, unlike the CPS's hiccuping and dash light up. I put it in park and it started right back up like normal. I continued about my errands and made it home. I have since driven it two more times the same distance and it has not died.
What I have done on this truck the past year.
-Replaced ICP -3/14
-Rebuilt IPR and checked IPR plug -6/14
-Replaced fuel filter every 7500 miles and I am probably due another one of those now
-Replaced air filter - 4/15
-Cleaned out both the sensor and the exhaust back pressure tube
-replaced CPS w/ dark blue unit from RiffRaff in -8/14
-checked main harness over driver valve cover and placed a piece of heavy duty wire cover wrap where they touch the valve cover -8/14
UVWH replace in 2008
Have a new IPR and pigtail coming just because I wanted to eliminate a bad solenoid on it. I also have a Torque Pro w/ blue tooth adapter on an LG tablet that I have yet to set up....but am working on it Will the truck throw any codes if the CEL didn't light up?
I change my motor in my 01 f350 ccsb to a forged rod one from a 97. When I put the thing in my inexperience cause me to screw up my torque converter in turn ruining my transmission. So after a rebuild I put it back in and she fit like a glove. Ever since I put the engine in i get a vibration at idle.
After I realize I screwed up the torque converter I figured that was the cause of the vibration. But now I know the trans is in properly I still have this vibration I'm thinking it's the position of the motor. I installed new motor mounts when I put the motor in but they were quite a bit off from the original points on the cross member.
My only idea to rectify this was to reinstall the original ones and try to position the motor back where it was prior to the engine swap. Or should I be looking elsewhere?