Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F350 - Hard To Start / Taking Lot Of Cranking
Nov 10, 2009
I have a 2001 F-350 7.3L Powerstroke. 48,000 miles. I've been having trouble with cold starts. So far it has always started but is taking a lot of cranking, but it hasn't gotten too cold yet so I'm worried about when it does. I ohmed out the the glow plugs and am getting close to 0 resistance. The GPR has 12.5 volts on the hot side and when the relay is closed 10.5 on the other side. Is that difference in voltage in the GPR enough to screw up the Glow Plugs heating up? If I plug it in at night it starts right up. I'm worried about when I am at work for 16 hours and don't have a place to plug it in this winter. BTW this is my first winter with the truck.
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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
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This is kind of strange, I have a hard start problem, when I crank it the first time, it fires immediately, kind of like a romp, but doesn't start, then when I crank again I get a lot of whitish smoke and no start. I read to try and unplug the ICP and try it. That worked, and I had oil in the connector. I replaced the ICP, but have the same problem. I still have to unplug the ICP for the truck to start. When it does start, it runs great! No injector stiction, no smoke, no rough idle, it runs and sounds great. Why unplugging the ICP is still required to start? (Only after sitting for more than 10-12 hours).
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I've been working through with hard starting on my 2002 7.3 A while back I took my batteries to Autozone and had them check them. They said they were fine but because of my hard/no start situation cranking on it for a short time (couple of minutes) kills the battery. The transmission shop said that they had to charge it after sitting for a couple of days to get it started. I have a multi-meter and know how to check the voltage. I even have AE and it gives me the voltage. Are there any other tools or procedures to check the health of the batteries?
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Ok I've got an 01 F250 sd 7.3 with 257k on it it just started talking longer to start than it should it will do it cold or hot even if I shut it off at the drive thru takes it like 10 sec or more to fire. My question is I thought about purchasing a autoenginuity to find the problem but not sure the best place to get and what model I should get.
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I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
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2003 F350 7.3L 164k miles. Got towed in with hard to start cold complaint.
Hooked it up to the Snap On Verus Pro scan tool and we get up to 3000 psi on the ICP cranking, IPR value seems within spec, we have rpms over 100 on tool, pulse width within spec, computer voltage above 10v while cranking, verified output of glow plug module (California) and glow plugs get voltage for approx 50 seconds @ 80 degrees farenheit, glow plugs all read 0 ohms resistance.
injectors do NOT sound the same during buzz test.
Vehicle takes EXCESSIVE cranking cold to eventually get it started. LOTS of cranking. Just had to replace starter and a battery because driver burned em out. It feels like the vehicle shakes when it gets running. Black smoke when revving cold. Sometimes white smoke while cranking.
Once the engine has been warmed up, it starts perfectly every time.
I have spent two days in the engine bay looking for chaffed wires and doing diag and my current diagnosis is bad injectors. I feel there COULD also be high pressure oil leak, or a mechanical issue such as low compression. No compression guage yet for this truck. We have the ICP and IPR fittings to do a shop air test. Recently did a 6.0L and went thru everything and eventually diagnosed it as bad HPOP. LOW ICP pressure.
I noticed two of the cylinders were at maybe 8% Perdel on the data. Seems too high. Also, it "passed" the KOER self test and "passed" the injector buzz test with no codes after, but the audible sound of injectors didn't "seem" right to me, but I am new to these engines.
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This is an issue I started chasing after having all the injectors replaced on my aunt's F-350. We had them replaced due to hard/no start on cold (dealership told her they needed to be changed). Unfortunately, I did not get the buzz test results before changing the injectors.
So far that has been replaced:
Injectors
ICP (was leaking)
IPR
both UVCH
IDM (twice)
The issue we are having right now is that only 2 injectors (#6, #7) buzz properly. Initially when we changed the injectors, it did start but didn't seem to run quite right. We did the buzz test and at that time and injectors 1,3,5,6,7 would buzz strong but the rest were weak. After some forum lurking, we suspected that the IDM was faulty. We purchased a refurbished one and after we changed it, only injectors 6,7 would buzz strong. Thinking a faulty IDM was sent it back for a replacement. While waiting, we decided to put the old one back in figuring it would go back as it was before but only 6,7 would buzz strong. We receive the second IDM and same thing, only 6,7 buzz strong. We did a continuity test from the IDM connector and they all get 2.7 ohms (it was an older multimeter so not sure if being .1 under the 2.8-3.6 range is bad).
What I did next is use the uvch external pigtail to test the injectors. I plugged the extra pig tail into the uvch and then the ends of the wires into the plug of the upper harness. Afterwards, I would swap a different injector wire (on the pigtail) to the #6 injector wire (on the upper harness). Whatever injector that would go to #6 would fire correctly. So I know that the injectors themselves are fine. I am suspecting the wiring harnesses (upper/lower) but the continuity test would say otherwise. We also do not get any fault codes except for the EBP occasionally (waiting for a new one). I am lost on what to test or look at next.
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I've replaced the alternator and starter recently and both batteries and the truck ran fine befor that. But it sat for roughly 2 months and now it seems as if its not getting fuel. Will start with a shot of ether but will die as soon at it burns it off
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I have been having problems with my truck for about 6 months now. It start in Sept when my fuel pump went. I got a new pump and went to change it just to have the back clip break off. I fixed the line after getting 2nd degree burns from the boiling water I had to use to expand the line and installed the new fuel pump. Didn't fix anything.
At this point is was dropping below freezing every night ( I live in Canada in the mountains) so I thought it might be my plug relay again... changed that. After that my started has always missed so I figured I would change it out and sure enough the power bolt on the starter was broken. Changed it.
Then it started smoking and I read up on the quarter trick so I figured why not try that. I checked everything and they all checked fine but I am a glutton for punishment and figured I would do that valve cover gasket. So opened it up to find one of my glow plug wires on my harness was burnt up. I have a spare truck for parts so I grabbed the wire and replaced it. Still no change.
Today it was spitting out the usually raw diesel that I have gotten use to but when I was opening the gate to get a manlift for work I smelt oil just to find my turbo coved and the V had a small pool of oil happening there. I added 4L of oil and tightened up my valve cover back bolt on the passenger side... it may have fixed the leak but didn't have time to check.
I backed up to the manlift and it lagged a bit so I gave it a pump of the peddle and it died. Now it won't start. Charged batteries and tried after it cooled down but still no go.
In short my truck has been smoking for about 4 months now. It shutters at low RPM and stalls at the bottom of hills if I gear down on the hill (we have really steep hills around here). I have changed my oil three times in the last 6 months but it keeps coming out black (which it always has). No water in fuel or oil. Once and awhile it had problems starting when it was warm but after bellowing out massive amounts of smoke it would start. The truck turns over but wont start. There is no power where it died so I have to come home and charge the batteries every time they get low but even after it cooled down it still wouldn't start.
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I have begun to notice a "Knock" or "rattle" in the engine. I know diesels have a tendency to sound like that just from running but that sound is more of a "cackle" if you ask me.
I can hear the "knock" most noticeably at hard acceleration or taking off in general. It can also be heard during idle and every so faintly at deceleration with the torque converter locked so it makes me thing its mechanical due to the nature of the way the sound is audible.
I believe the sound is coming from the passenger side bank as that is where I can hear it the best with my head under the hood. I have a code reader and checked, I have no visible codes other than it telling me about secondary fuel circuit high which I suspect was from showing off with my friends.
I did a cylinder balance test and again got 3 (PO269) and 8(PO284) which I have been told are very common.
I checked my ICP readings and it was 500~ and 11%
Pulse width for injectors was 2.50~
I did a KOER test and received no codes
Glow Plugs showed okay
KOEO (PO605)- Internal Control Module Read Only Memory error.
Exhaust Absolute Back Pressure was 16.2 at Idle with MBRP 4" Turbo back.
Also, I have noticed a drop of about 5-10 degrees in my oil temp and about 100 degrees drop in my EGT's although it has been pretty cold here recently (32 degree oil temp when I started her at 2 in the afternoon)..
I think it might be a bad piston skirt? I am guessing that from my experience with motorcycle engines but these are a totally different beast and that is why I am here...
I have 634,000 Miles and from what I have been told the engine has never been broken into so I would expect something like this myself. I am mostly looking for a place to start. Should I pull the oil pan and look for debris? (Oil was clean last time I changed it less than 2000 miles ago).
Should I pull the passenger bank apart and look inside? Is there a chance I am just hearing the noise due to the additive wearing off and me being used to the quieter engine?
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I have an issue with my 2001 f350 7.3 PSD. Intermittently it will not start. It will crank really quick, but will not even try to start. I think it is not getting fuel. There are no CEL codes and I have a WTS light and the tach is moving while cranking. I hear a clicking/buzzing sound coming from under te center opf the dash. When I hear that sound it will not start. checked fuses and relays and it started before. not sure if removing the fue made whatever reset. this has happened a couple times. Now it will not reset. When I remove the number #24 fuse under the hood, the clicking stops. when i crank it, but still doesn't start. When it starts in runs perfect. Drained the batteries trying to trouble shoot, but have them charger now.
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My 2001 7.3 in a f350 automatic has this problem. I tried to start in am, no wait to start light comes on, but the od/off on auto transmission handle is blinking on and off. Turn key off and back on, no blinking, instrument cluster lights up as normal but no wait to start light, engine turns over as normal but no start or attempt to start, engine has about 56000. replaced glow plug relay, still nothing.
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I've done everything I can think of, ive replace the starter, batteries and altenator, both batteries have at least 12.30 volts when taken out and checked, but i turn the key and it will have power then try to start and whole system dies and wont come back on, I've cleaned the terminals and posts to shiny and the ground connections but its still not getting power.
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I just started having an issue on my 01 7.3 f350 with 203k miles, it will crank much longer then normal to start. If you shut it off then try to restart right away it starts normal, if you wait 10 minutes long crank again. if you shut it off and turn key back on but don't start it you can wait an hour then start right away. IDM bad? Vacation in 2 weeks and I would like to get this fixed first.
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My 2001 7.3 was smoking excessively and I rebuilt the turbo and the center cartridge was at fault for that. I'm still having some of the problems I was having before with a lot of smoke at cold start (I have to hold the accelerator down while I start it and it takes about 10 seconds to start) even when I hold it I have to keep it held for about 5-10 seconds before the RPMs get to where they should be. And it smokes like crazy.
Then after about 3 minutes warming up, or 30 seconds of me holding it at 3500 rpm, the idle smooths out and it only smokes a little. Then once I start driving it doesn't smoke a lot unless I go hammer down then it puffs some white smoke. I took the oil cap off and it isn't huge amounts of blow by cap just rattles off. Can ford buzz test and see if I only have 1 or 2 bad injectors? Could this be anything other than injectors? It has a ts6 on it with 24xxxx miles with factory injectors.
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I have a 2001 F350 Dually 7.3 w/260K miles. Hard starting, it has to be plugged in all the time. Occasionally/most of the time, blows white smoke at 50 to 60 mph or at high rpm. Replaced TPS and now runs totally different on starting, still hard to start but better throttle response on starting. Once started, I have to pedal it to keep it running, which seems to have little response as it would as if it was a direct throttle linkage attached to a carburetor...follow me? After a while, it will idle by itself. However, it still has flat spots when out of idle and at high rpm. Has gotten to the point that I can't trust to drive it.
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This morning I went to start her up, and she fired right up and I let her warm up until oil temp got to 100F, when I realized that I wasn't leaving right away so I shut it down and came back about an hour later. Oil temp now at 78F, but she wouldn't start. Have Torque Pro running, and the IPR is going straight to 98.6% every time while cranking, sits at 14.7% with KOEO.
Truck's been running fine, recent oil/filter change (T6 10-40W), cleaned & re-installed CAC tubes/boots for leaks. All else seems good. Pulling the ICP sensor shows HPOP going to 2800psi, with IPR @ 30%, still no start and not even a cough.
The IPR is original, rebuilt once several years ago.
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Was driving to work about 4 miles into my travel rolled around corned and she died..... tow bill and cps she fired rite up. Ran at idle in drive way because I was a little leary for about an hour left drive way went 2 miles went to pull in to store died again. Another tow bill and 2 more cps still won't start rpm is only like 200 when cranking but sounds like a lot more. The wts light works, batteries are pretty new, cps in new...
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2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
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