Have no OD, when you press the OD button nothing happens and then the OD light flashes until she's shut down. On start up no flashing until OD button pressed. All other gears shift lovely. Haven't checked codes yet.
View 9 RepliesI've got a light burned out on my dashboard. No big deal (it still gets some light from an adjacent bulb) but just out of curiosity: How big a nightmare would it be to replace a lightbulb in the dash of a 2001 F-250 XL?
Do you have to pull the motor/trans and lift the cab off the frame like I've been told you need to do to replace a heater core? Local mechanics laughed at that job and told me to get some stop leak...
About a year ago, my airbag indicator light threw a code 47. It did this for about two days, then it stopped. Fast forward to this weekend, and it started again. From what I can tell, it is the passenger side seat belt pretensioner. It could be a coincidence, but my daughter pulled the seat recline lever without anyone being in the seat, causing it to fly forward as if James Bond was ejecting someone through the windshield. The next time I started my truck, it was throwing the code. I tried to check to see if the plug was knocked loose during the ejection sequence. I thought the connector was under the passenger seat, but I don't see any wiring (the passenger seat is manual). My next guess was behind the glove box, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for.
My truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 Lariat.
Truck is an early 1999 F250 Super Duty ext cab long bed, ZF6 swap. 164k miles on the dash, has the newer injectors and hpop from what I was told. It does have a 6 position switch, I typically keep it at the daily 70 horse gain tune. I do not beat the truck often. I don't tow often either.
Truck always took a few seconds longer to start than other 7.3s I have seen. So two days in row, after 8 hours of sitting in the sun, my truck did not wanna start right. Took about 5 minutes of cranking both days to get it to start. Then today on my way to work in the morning I started truck let it idle, everything seemed fine, Started driving and the engine just didn't sound right, but I figured maybe it was still a little cold. Continued driving, and it stalled out ( zf6) , I tried pop starting it but that only got me another block or two, after 10 minutes of cranking I got it to start up made it a half mile it shut off, same thing started and got it home. It cranked longer than normal but started at home after it I turned it off.
At work now so I have yet to check anything. Replacing CPS after work No smoke out of tailpipe, It is getting fuel, I checked the filter. I am no master mechanic, I do basic maintenance like oil changes, brakes, filters and censors my self. Anything more intensive I have not done. If it is not the CPS what else could it be, and how would I go about checking?
Auto trans. The Overdrive light flashes on the Selector lever. Never stops.I put tape over it because it is annoying. Especially at night. It goes into overdrive no problem.
A Couple of times it did not flash and was stuck in first till I manually shifted. Then the light started flashing again and works normal. What now......RPM Sensor?
I have a 2001 F250 Crew Cab with Powerstroke. The dash lights are starting to go out one at a time. How do I get to and replace the bulbs?
View 14 RepliesBattery light comes on when the truck is running at less than about 1200rpm, but I see zero movement on the needle. Weird thing is i charged the batteries and tested the alternator with my multimeter and it was reading 14.1-14.2 which is nominal. Run it for about 10 min then it reads 12.3-12.8
I'm thinking a bad cell in the battery or alternator is going out. Oh and all the connections are tight, wires look good. 2001 f250 4wd 7.3 intake exhaust basic tuner gauges. Could the constant heat be a factor?
I have a 2000 f250 7.3 with about 230,000 miles on it. So I filled my truck up to go out of town got on my way drove about 50 miles and the next stop I made the truck shut off and would not start again. I figured CPS went out again! nope changed it still not start. So check the fuel pump seemed fine was getting diesel. Checked oil, was a little low so i topped it off nothing. So i left the truck over night and came back on sunday still nothing. I finally got it started with a shot of quick start i know its not good but i had to get this Truck home. I drove and made it almost home took my foot off the pedal and it stalled again so i pulled it home. Had a guy go over and scan it and it says the oil pressure is at 30 psi when cranking so he says the hpop is probably bad.
View 2 RepliesAuto trans. The Overdrive light flashes on the Selector lever. Never stops. I put tape over it because it is annoying. Especially at night. It goes into overdrive no problem.
A Couple of times it did not flash and was stuck in first till I manually shifted. Then the light started flashing again and works normal. What now......RPM Sensor?
I have a 2001 3/4 pickup. Sometimes the over drive light flashes. When it flashes it shifts really hard and sometimes it won't shift into 4th until I mash the overdrive button. Sometimes the light doesn't flash at all and it doesn't have any trouble shifting at all. Is it a solenoid? Or wiring issues?
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
View 1 RepliesShortly after i bought the truck and started driving it home, it shut down on me while coming up a mountain on the interstate. I had probably drove it about 10-15 miles and about 20-30 minutes of running after being dead cold. The temp gauge was about in the middle and it would not start up again until about an hour and a half later, which I was able to drive it home another 20 miles away.
There are no codes, which a mechanic told me it is probably an intermittent problem then. He then told me it would either be the cps, ipr or fuel pump. I have changed the cps and since then have not been able to replicate the problem but I have also not been able to get the engine up to temp because of the recent weather being so cold. I want to test the truck and see if I can get it to stall again but what this could be or what I can do to test the truck?
The truck is a 2003 f250 7.3 4x4 automatic, short bed, crew cab, with 320k miles.
My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
My truck occasionally gets a hot no start issue and it's been happening more frequently. Mostly it happens if I drive it up to operating temp turn it off for a short time, then try to start up again. Usually, if I wait 15min to an hour it will start up. It has died on me while driving too, then I have to wait and periodically try it. I've noticed in this situation that if my glow plugs turn on for only a short time, it won't start. But once the motor has cooled enough that the glow plugs stay on for the longer duration, then it will start right up.
I've replaced the CPS, rebuilt the IPR, did the ICP unplug test, rebuilt the injectors, replaced the fuel filter.
HPOP oil level is good, changed the oil maybe 500mi ago. When it's a no start, the low oil pressure gauge does start to read after some cranking, also the tach does read. It throws no DTCs. My reader isn't able to monitor live sensor data.
There is some oil in the valley, but I can't find the source. I think it's probably the turbo pedestal. What else should I check?
I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
I am a new and very happy 7.3 owner. i have lurking around these forums and decided I didn't want to be a creeper anymore. So onto the fun stuff.
Yesterday my wife was exiting a freeway and the Ex shut off while exiting. once she came to a complete stop she tried turning it on and it would start then immediately shut off. she was able to turn it on and it would run then shut off as she drove across the intersection. once she made it across a good samaritan offered to park it for her. She noticed a little bit of black smoke but she told me that the guy was revving it to keep it running.
Luckily there was family at the mall and she waited for the flat bed to arrive. it sat for about 2 hours and they tried starting it and it would start then die. no more black smoke though. we had it towed to a diesel repair shop and they went to start it today and alas it started right up. they let it idle for 30 minutes and it was good. they test drove it and all good. they ran the codes and got the following:
P1876
B1352
B1483
U1147
One thing I did notice a couple of weeks ago, while driving on the freeway cruising about 65, the Ex surged a little and then ran fine. then another time it surged a little while idling. Some more info on the rig. it has a banks six gun tuner and has a cold air intake and exhaust. And it has a Banks Big Head wastegate. I bought the rig 2 months ago and changed all the filters and fluids.
I've developed a problem, usually when starting, that the truck will crank over, start and idle for a few seconds and then shut off. The few seconds it idles it doesn't get any throttle input. I'll crank it back over taking a little more than usual to get it started. When it does start it seems slightly sluggish but that quickly, like almost immediately goes away and the throttle is working again.
Oh, 2001, 7.3 stock w/200k
I have a 01 f-250 7.3 6 speed. I bought the truck a few days ago and the 4x4 wasn't working the dealer replaced the transfer case motor. I have another 01 f-250 that i have been switching parts out of to see if that makes a differences and found nothing to work. Ive switched the switch on the dash out and nothing. Ive switched the two relays under the hood and nothing. I have also checked all fuses. and the connectors on the transfer case.
So I finally popped the covers off the two relays and squeezed them with my fingers and boom transfer case locked into 4lo and then i can squeezed the other and boom back in 2h! So now I'm lost, I know the wiring from the relays to the transfer case is good and the switch is good and relays are good so I'm at a loss.. Also cruise control isn't working idk if that could be related i don't think it is but idk?
The fan clutch will come in and out rapidly when NOT in OD and pulling hills with the fifth-wheel attached. Replaced with a new aftermarket fan, then a new OE one. Then had the radiator pulled and all the bugs, etc. blown out. The condition has not changed at all. The original fan clutch was pretty sloppy. There are no codes, the trans fluid is nicely red, the engine does not overheat or even change temp when pulling hills. No check engine light ever. The truck is a 2001 F250 4 X 4 automatic extra cab with 7.3 engine without any modifications and runs perfect except for this. There are about 95k miles on odo. When we use overdrive on the flats, there is no issue.
View 12 RepliesI have 2001 7.3 f250 ... I just got it about 2 months ago I drove it for maybe 2 week and it ran good the other morning I went out to start it and would not start and the way I was parked my low fuel light was on so I put 5 gallons of fuel in finally got it started sum how drove it for maybe 2 hrs parked it and wen we got back in to go it was done for hasn't started since its been down for a bout 2 weeks now I've replaced hpop, icp, pcm, fuel filter,checked idm for corrosion it all looks well, gpr,checked uvch on driver side looked good and changed cps what else do I have to go from ? No matter what it won't start good batteries cranks good but no start ...
View 14 Replies01 f250. Just bought from my brother. 140000 miles. Immaculate. Truck will die for no reason. Running down the highway, or sitting at a red light. Fires back up. Sometimes have to crank a few times. He has had at a mechanic and everything checks out good. Since birth its only had royal purple that he has changed every 5000 miles as well as all filters. Where do I start?
View 6 Replies