Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F250 - No Start After Changing Water Pump
Mar 20, 2017
I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty V8 7.3 L. I removed the water-pump then waited five days for the oring for the new pump. I installed it and now the truck will not start. I have drained the fuel water separator and replaced the filter. On the passengers side through the kick panel I found that button popped out so I pushed it back in and still it will not run. It acts like its not getting fuel but if my fuel water separator is filing up I'm assuming mu fuel pump is working??
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How hard is the water pump to replace on 1999 f250 7.3 ...
Any thing special i need to know before tackling this job ...
Also is there any step by step instructions ???
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I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
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My water pump went out. Besides the obvious replacing the pump is there anything else I should do while making the repair?
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I have 2001 7.3 f250 ... I just got it about 2 months ago I drove it for maybe 2 week and it ran good the other morning I went out to start it and would not start and the way I was parked my low fuel light was on so I put 5 gallons of fuel in finally got it started sum how drove it for maybe 2 hrs parked it and wen we got back in to go it was done for hasn't started since its been down for a bout 2 weeks now I've replaced hpop, icp, pcm, fuel filter,checked idm for corrosion it all looks well, gpr,checked uvch on driver side looked good and changed cps what else do I have to go from ? No matter what it won't start good batteries cranks good but no start ...
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2001 f250 7.3 with 210,000 miles. Was running rough when cold and glow plugs were bad so I bought new glow plugs and had injectors rebuilt with 100% over stock nozzles. When I changed them I made sure I turned the motor with glow plugs out and pulled the drain plug in the head. Wanted to start it just to get the oil out before I let it sit for a few days til I got the tuner. It started fine and I let it run while I ran in the house and when I came back out about 1 min later it was off. Didn't want to start again. Just left it til I got the tuner on and It still doesn't want to start. What I should check? Turns over good and has good batteries. Also it's a hydra chip tuner with beans tunes. Darren weeks rebuilt the injectors.
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So I have a 2001 f250 7.3l and on my way to work yesterday while driving down a hill I switched my ts 6 switch to 140 and it immediately stalled, so I pulled over and restarted the truck and it started up fine and I drove the rest of the way to work, I go to start it after work and it won't start, it just cranks and cranks and cranks, occasionally it'll fire and I got it to start and was able to rev it for about 30 seconds but then it died, disconnect the 6 position switch from the idm and tried but still nothing.
So today I replaced the ipr valve, got everything back together still won't start maybe a little worse now, I know it's getting fuel cause there's pressure in the bowl when I try to take it off, there's a new icp valve, cps, new fuel filter and new sending unit, the hpop is topped off. Also I noticed when I went to change the ipr the wires on the plug were bare and touching so I addressed that, I don't know what else it could be?
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Ok I've got an 01 F250 sd 7.3 with 257k on it it just started talking longer to start than it should it will do it cold or hot even if I shut it off at the drive thru takes it like 10 sec or more to fire. My question is I thought about purchasing a autoenginuity to find the problem but not sure the best place to get and what model I should get.
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I have a 99 SD 7.3 with 210K miles. It has the OE water pump, clutch and fan. I am replacing every thing from pump to fan including pulley, thermostat and sensor. The question is can every thing be removed as a unit? I don't see why not but never did one that way.
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I went on deployment and handed the wife to crank the truck up she did but didn't drive it so batteries didn't charge back up. I got them charged up and the truck cranked right up. I was plugging it in at night and it would start just fine the next morning. Then a week later batteries kept dying in a few hours during the day. Had to jump it again. then even when plugged in trying to crank it there was a buzzing noise and it would crank but not start. I bought new batteries and it cranked right up and drove fine until I shut it off and same problem and batteries were low again and it will crank but wont turn over. I am thinking maybe alternator.
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my first diesel, and second 2002 f250. I picked up my 7.3 4x4 automatic CCSB last week. 202k on the odometer. I need to change the air filter but idk what to use. I don't think it's stock. The side of the air box says aFe. What the part number for the filter is? I don't see one on the filter anywhere.
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I am changing the rear Diff fluid in my 1999 F250 Super Duty with limited slip differential. I have read in the manual that 8 ounces of friction modifier is required, ford dealer said it only required 4 ounces. I bought 8.
Also I asked for a inspections plate gasket and ford said use silicone... When I removed inspection plate it had a gasket. So, silicone or gasket or both? Differential capacity is 6.9 pints 75w/140w synthetic.
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So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
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I read 18lbs for the water pump but it took a cheater bar (perhaps due to corrosion) to get the water pump lower elbow bolts off.
On reinstallation, what should the lower elbow bolts be torqued to? Checked the sticky (Ziggy's Torque Specs) but didn't see the specs for this item.
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So the water pump on my early 99 (158k miles) is starting to leak just sitting in the driveway, did a little research last night and read a few write ups. Just wondering if any tips or tricks I could use to make this go easier. Also any list of parts I should replace and/or might need. I read on one write up about replacing it with an Airtex water pump and was wondering about what people thought of those, I would rather fix it right then just go with the cheapest parts. Possibly there are better brand water pumps out there?
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There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
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I am in the process of replacing my water pump. After I removed the pump, I found quite a bit of metal-on-metal wear between the impeller and the water pump housing. Is this common?
I've been running a coolant filter on my system for years now, so hopefully its been effective at collecting some of the metal that has clearly been worn away. Either that, or this is a sign that the filter isn't working at all!
I'm a little worried that the new pump will scrape the scars left from the old pump.
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My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
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Recently my 2011 F-250 Diesel with 21,000 miles seemed to start hard one morning. After starting the truck it ran well that day and started fine. The next morning it would not start. Had it taken to the dealer and they went to work. Started at the fuel filters and replaced low pressure fuel pump. Thought a piece of the defective pump had moved up fuel line. Removed high pressure pump and found signs of rust. All regular service intervals have been met. Didn't see this coming. No water in fuel light or other warning.
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I have a 2001 f350 dually diesel, I was driving it with no problem and all of the Sudden it die when I was checking the problem I not that the fuse for the diesel pump was blown immediately I replaced it and as soon I turn the key on it blew it right away I fol the wires from the pump to the fuse box and there is no wires grounding so maybe I can get a little bit of info to find the source of the problem
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I just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
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