Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F250 - Just A Click When Turn Key In Ignition
Feb 14, 2017
I have a 01 f250, I've only had it a couple of months. It has 300k miles on it and has its share of problems. I knew that going in and I just bought it for a work truck around the farm and honestly I don't expect it to work perfectly. But since I have had it there are times where it will not crank, it will only click under the dash and then a second click under the hood. It will do that in the mornings a lot and by the afternoon it will crank. I found that jumping the 2 larger wires on the starter solenoid bypasses the problem and it will turn over and crank. So I replaced the solenoid thinking that was the problem, but it still does the same thing. I know the batteries are good.
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Drove it last night around 9pm. Parked it and went to drive it again this morning around 7:30. No cold weather here or rain. Here is what I know: When I turn the key I hear a click (not a repeating click) but the engine doesn't turn over. Batteries have 12.5 volts. I put my trickle charger on them and had full charge after about 3 or 4 minutes. When I turn the key the headlights do not go dim. I put a screw driver across the solenoid on the passenger side fender and got a strong arc. When I do that, I can also hear another click that sounds like its coming from the engine. I tapped the starter a few times with a hammer, but it still wont turn over. I'm guessing bad starter.
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So I bought a Lifted 1999 F250 a couple weeks ago and last night the thing wouldn't start. The battery connections are not perfect but there's power going to the truck because it will give me the wait to start light and all. When I try to start it there's one really loud click and certain lights like the clock momentarily turn off when it clicks. Tried hitting the starter didn't work. Tried putting a jump pack to the starter and it didn't spark like expected.
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Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
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I'm having issues with my girlfriends truck turning over. It won't turn over at all. I'm not getting any power to the small wire on the relay on the passenger fender or the red wire with a blue stripe off the ignition module.
I've cleaned and tested the batteries and the terminals. I've replaced the ignition switch the ignition module the starter and the starter relay on the passenger fender and I've also checked the neutral safety switch. I've checked all the fuses and relays also.
It's a 2000 Ford 7.3l automatic.
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Wonder what color wire provides power to turn selector switch on steering column. I checked under dash for fuse 23, and all maxi fuses under hood are good. Also swapped the turn signal relay under dash and no success. I have yet to clean the pins on the firewall harness connection.
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We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
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I have a 01 f-250 7.3 6 speed. I bought the truck a few days ago and the 4x4 wasn't working the dealer replaced the transfer case motor. I have another 01 f-250 that i have been switching parts out of to see if that makes a differences and found nothing to work. Ive switched the switch on the dash out and nothing. Ive switched the two relays under the hood and nothing. I have also checked all fuses. and the connectors on the transfer case.
So I finally popped the covers off the two relays and squeezed them with my fingers and boom transfer case locked into 4lo and then i can squeezed the other and boom back in 2h! So now I'm lost, I know the wiring from the relays to the transfer case is good and the switch is good and relays are good so I'm at a loss.. Also cruise control isn't working idk if that could be related i don't think it is but idk?
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The fan clutch will come in and out rapidly when NOT in OD and pulling hills with the fifth-wheel attached. Replaced with a new aftermarket fan, then a new OE one. Then had the radiator pulled and all the bugs, etc. blown out. The condition has not changed at all. The original fan clutch was pretty sloppy. There are no codes, the trans fluid is nicely red, the engine does not overheat or even change temp when pulling hills. No check engine light ever. The truck is a 2001 F250 4 X 4 automatic extra cab with 7.3 engine without any modifications and runs perfect except for this. There are about 95k miles on odo. When we use overdrive on the flats, there is no issue.
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I have 2001 7.3 f250 ... I just got it about 2 months ago I drove it for maybe 2 week and it ran good the other morning I went out to start it and would not start and the way I was parked my low fuel light was on so I put 5 gallons of fuel in finally got it started sum how drove it for maybe 2 hrs parked it and wen we got back in to go it was done for hasn't started since its been down for a bout 2 weeks now I've replaced hpop, icp, pcm, fuel filter,checked idm for corrosion it all looks well, gpr,checked uvch on driver side looked good and changed cps what else do I have to go from ? No matter what it won't start good batteries cranks good but no start ...
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01 f250. Just bought from my brother. 140000 miles. Immaculate. Truck will die for no reason. Running down the highway, or sitting at a red light. Fires back up. Sometimes have to crank a few times. He has had at a mechanic and everything checks out good. Since birth its only had royal purple that he has changed every 5000 miles as well as all filters. Where do I start?
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2001 f250 7.3 with 210,000 miles. Was running rough when cold and glow plugs were bad so I bought new glow plugs and had injectors rebuilt with 100% over stock nozzles. When I changed them I made sure I turned the motor with glow plugs out and pulled the drain plug in the head. Wanted to start it just to get the oil out before I let it sit for a few days til I got the tuner. It started fine and I let it run while I ran in the house and when I came back out about 1 min later it was off. Didn't want to start again. Just left it til I got the tuner on and It still doesn't want to start. What I should check? Turns over good and has good batteries. Also it's a hydra chip tuner with beans tunes. Darren weeks rebuilt the injectors.
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So I have a 2001 f250 7.3l and on my way to work yesterday while driving down a hill I switched my ts 6 switch to 140 and it immediately stalled, so I pulled over and restarted the truck and it started up fine and I drove the rest of the way to work, I go to start it after work and it won't start, it just cranks and cranks and cranks, occasionally it'll fire and I got it to start and was able to rev it for about 30 seconds but then it died, disconnect the 6 position switch from the idm and tried but still nothing.
So today I replaced the ipr valve, got everything back together still won't start maybe a little worse now, I know it's getting fuel cause there's pressure in the bowl when I try to take it off, there's a new icp valve, cps, new fuel filter and new sending unit, the hpop is topped off. Also I noticed when I went to change the ipr the wires on the plug were bare and touching so I addressed that, I don't know what else it could be?
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3 and I had started to notice I wasn't making as much boost I thought I should have been. I looked around and found a tear in the cold side CAC boot. My question is what is the best option for replacing it, something like RiffRaff or oem? Also should I look at replacing all the boots or just the two up top?
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I have a 2003 F250 7.3 auto 4x4 SD ... has done 616000kms and is getting a bit rattily and injectors are getting tired . Have found a 2001 7.3 engine that has 130000 miles on clock . Will the 2001 engine fit into my truck .... e.g.. bell housing and crank bolt spacing's, mounts for all the bolt on bits ... is it quicker to take engine and box out or just engine ?? have even read on here that body removal is necessary .have a forklift and workshop available
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2001 F250 7.3 - warn manual hubs.. However, the wife has been driving the truck and I don't know how often she has cycled 4WD.
Basically if you choose 4WD hi it doesn't light up to indicate that it has engaged, if you drive for a couple of minutes slowly then eventually it drops in - not much use if you're already stuck. It will then select 4Lo. Coming out of 4Lo to 4Hi or 2WD is painfully slow - like 5-6 minutes before the dash light goes out for 2WD.
I was thinking maybe the electric motor for the transfer case - unless it is the transfer case dying.
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2001 F250 7.3 4x4 330000
So weird noise while breaking but only right at the very end of the breaking cycle or if breaking hard. As soon as you come of the breaks it stops. Changed out front rotors and pads last night thinking that was it but its not. I'm inclined to think it could be the driver rear side by having someone else drive and brake whilst stood by it - rear rotors and pads changed 18 months ago and quick visual check appears they are ok. Just can't work it out - any thoughts? Caliper seemed ok on the front left, but would probably need doing in the next 6 months
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
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My 2001 f250 7.3 was running then just shut off like I had turned the key off, While trying to start back up, the truck turns over fine but no fire. I also have no gauges, I tested both fuse boxes and the one under the hood I have power on all big fuses, including the PCM but some of the small ones I don't, No power to the PCM diode, either side, the fuse box inside the cab, I have half power, No power to the PCM fuse is their a fusible link somewhere?
I really can't see much down there. The truck did get into a accident in Oct, which created a problem with the ignition and not sure if that could be a problem? That problem is, when I turn the vehicle off, it would stay running for a few seconds. I ignored the problem cause it didn't hinder the vehicle any.
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Today my 01 f250 super duty has started making (5) beep tones (3) times in a row. I have my seatbelt buckled, all my gauges show ok. What is this tone indicating?
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Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
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