I have a 2001 f250 7.3 and I had started to notice I wasn't making as much boost I thought I should have been. I looked around and found a tear in the cold side CAC boot. My question is what is the best option for replacing it, something like RiffRaff or oem? Also should I look at replacing all the boots or just the two up top?
View 14 Repliesive noticed my boost has been going down lately. At first I thought it was a boost leak so I replaced all the intercooler boots and both sides of the intercooler pipes. That diddnt change anything at all. I recently got new injectors (200/30%) and a hydra tune for them and it was quick the first few days i was running with that setup, my boost has been dropping and currently at WOT I can't even get to 10lbs of boost and it is noticeable driving, it's slower than it was stock. There was no play in the shaft of my turbo and the turbo in there is only 2 years old. Could the turbo be bad already? Or is there anything else I can check before buying a new one. I have an upgraded hpop and the 6637 intake.
View 13 Repliesjust installed all my intercooler boots with plenum inserts. Had a torque wrench set at around 14 lb/ft and all of a sudden POP! the inside of nut on clamp stripped out. of course its on the boot going to the plenum. Any one have this happen? Brand new clamps from riff raff. Am I cranking to hard, maybe torque wrench isnt accurate, i don't know but didn't seem like i was getting on it enough to do that. the threads came out on the bolt looking like a heli coil. not to cool. Google it and another forum popped up , everyone was saying to crank em down. apparently you cant do that , not even 14 lb/ft. Anyways went to hd and threaded the bolt into their thread gauge. the only one that seemed to fit was 1/4-28 fine thread( which they don't carry in a nylon thread lock nut). Is this the correct size? How to gauge how tight to tighten the nut?
View 4 RepliesI just noticed a wire burned in half on the front side of the intercooler plenum. See picture below,
Here is the left side showing the green wire stub going into the wiring harness on the front side of the intercooler plenum,
And this is the right side showing the wire going into the air intake duct between the turbo and the air filter,
I don't think it's been in this condition very long.
I have a 01 f-250 7.3 6 speed. I bought the truck a few days ago and the 4x4 wasn't working the dealer replaced the transfer case motor. I have another 01 f-250 that i have been switching parts out of to see if that makes a differences and found nothing to work. Ive switched the switch on the dash out and nothing. Ive switched the two relays under the hood and nothing. I have also checked all fuses. and the connectors on the transfer case.
So I finally popped the covers off the two relays and squeezed them with my fingers and boom transfer case locked into 4lo and then i can squeezed the other and boom back in 2h! So now I'm lost, I know the wiring from the relays to the transfer case is good and the switch is good and relays are good so I'm at a loss.. Also cruise control isn't working idk if that could be related i don't think it is but idk?
My friend is working on a 2004 6.0 F-250 and it has used 75% of the coolant in the overflow bottle in 5 days. Can't smell coolant either. The inside of the tailpipe is wet soot black and there are wet spots on the tube coming from the intercooler to the turbo at the turbo and the intercooler. He's thinking EGR cooler.
View 6 RepliesThe fan clutch will come in and out rapidly when NOT in OD and pulling hills with the fifth-wheel attached. Replaced with a new aftermarket fan, then a new OE one. Then had the radiator pulled and all the bugs, etc. blown out. The condition has not changed at all. The original fan clutch was pretty sloppy. There are no codes, the trans fluid is nicely red, the engine does not overheat or even change temp when pulling hills. No check engine light ever. The truck is a 2001 F250 4 X 4 automatic extra cab with 7.3 engine without any modifications and runs perfect except for this. There are about 95k miles on odo. When we use overdrive on the flats, there is no issue.
View 12 RepliesI have 2001 7.3 f250 ... I just got it about 2 months ago I drove it for maybe 2 week and it ran good the other morning I went out to start it and would not start and the way I was parked my low fuel light was on so I put 5 gallons of fuel in finally got it started sum how drove it for maybe 2 hrs parked it and wen we got back in to go it was done for hasn't started since its been down for a bout 2 weeks now I've replaced hpop, icp, pcm, fuel filter,checked idm for corrosion it all looks well, gpr,checked uvch on driver side looked good and changed cps what else do I have to go from ? No matter what it won't start good batteries cranks good but no start ...
View 14 Replies01 f250. Just bought from my brother. 140000 miles. Immaculate. Truck will die for no reason. Running down the highway, or sitting at a red light. Fires back up. Sometimes have to crank a few times. He has had at a mechanic and everything checks out good. Since birth its only had royal purple that he has changed every 5000 miles as well as all filters. Where do I start?
View 6 Replies2001 f250 7.3 with 210,000 miles. Was running rough when cold and glow plugs were bad so I bought new glow plugs and had injectors rebuilt with 100% over stock nozzles. When I changed them I made sure I turned the motor with glow plugs out and pulled the drain plug in the head. Wanted to start it just to get the oil out before I let it sit for a few days til I got the tuner. It started fine and I let it run while I ran in the house and when I came back out about 1 min later it was off. Didn't want to start again. Just left it til I got the tuner on and It still doesn't want to start. What I should check? Turns over good and has good batteries. Also it's a hydra chip tuner with beans tunes. Darren weeks rebuilt the injectors.
View 7 RepliesSo I have a 2001 f250 7.3l and on my way to work yesterday while driving down a hill I switched my ts 6 switch to 140 and it immediately stalled, so I pulled over and restarted the truck and it started up fine and I drove the rest of the way to work, I go to start it after work and it won't start, it just cranks and cranks and cranks, occasionally it'll fire and I got it to start and was able to rev it for about 30 seconds but then it died, disconnect the 6 position switch from the idm and tried but still nothing.
So today I replaced the ipr valve, got everything back together still won't start maybe a little worse now, I know it's getting fuel cause there's pressure in the bowl when I try to take it off, there's a new icp valve, cps, new fuel filter and new sending unit, the hpop is topped off. Also I noticed when I went to change the ipr the wires on the plug were bare and touching so I addressed that, I don't know what else it could be?
I have a 2003 F250 7.3 auto 4x4 SD ... has done 616000kms and is getting a bit rattily and injectors are getting tired . Have found a 2001 7.3 engine that has 130000 miles on clock . Will the 2001 engine fit into my truck .... e.g.. bell housing and crank bolt spacing's, mounts for all the bolt on bits ... is it quicker to take engine and box out or just engine ?? have even read on here that body removal is necessary .have a forklift and workshop available
View 2 Replies2001 F250 7.3 - warn manual hubs.. However, the wife has been driving the truck and I don't know how often she has cycled 4WD.
Basically if you choose 4WD hi it doesn't light up to indicate that it has engaged, if you drive for a couple of minutes slowly then eventually it drops in - not much use if you're already stuck. It will then select 4Lo. Coming out of 4Lo to 4Hi or 2WD is painfully slow - like 5-6 minutes before the dash light goes out for 2WD.
I was thinking maybe the electric motor for the transfer case - unless it is the transfer case dying.
2001 F250 7.3 4x4 330000
So weird noise while breaking but only right at the very end of the breaking cycle or if breaking hard. As soon as you come of the breaks it stops. Changed out front rotors and pads last night thinking that was it but its not. I'm inclined to think it could be the driver rear side by having someone else drive and brake whilst stood by it - rear rotors and pads changed 18 months ago and quick visual check appears they are ok. Just can't work it out - any thoughts? Caliper seemed ok on the front left, but would probably need doing in the next 6 months
My 2001 f250 7.3 was running then just shut off like I had turned the key off, While trying to start back up, the truck turns over fine but no fire. I also have no gauges, I tested both fuse boxes and the one under the hood I have power on all big fuses, including the PCM but some of the small ones I don't, No power to the PCM diode, either side, the fuse box inside the cab, I have half power, No power to the PCM fuse is their a fusible link somewhere?
I really can't see much down there. The truck did get into a accident in Oct, which created a problem with the ignition and not sure if that could be a problem? That problem is, when I turn the vehicle off, it would stay running for a few seconds. I ignored the problem cause it didn't hinder the vehicle any.
Today my 01 f250 super duty has started making (5) beep tones (3) times in a row. I have my seatbelt buckled, all my gauges show ok. What is this tone indicating?
View 10 RepliesJust bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
View 9 RepliesOk I've got an 01 F250 sd 7.3 with 257k on it it just started talking longer to start than it should it will do it cold or hot even if I shut it off at the drive thru takes it like 10 sec or more to fire. My question is I thought about purchasing a autoenginuity to find the problem but not sure the best place to get and what model I should get.
View 7 RepliesSo I replaced all the rings on my injectors . After putting them back in turned the engine over 5-7 times by hand with the glow plugs out. Then I turned it over with them out as well with the valve covers off. After than I installed everything back in. Now is my problem. I've turned it over 5 times and no luck. Not even on turn over. The oil light keeps coming on?? The indicator doesn't move up at all. It will go up and come down ? Is something wrong with the hpop? Should I keep cranking? Gotta to charge the batteries now..
2001 f250 7.3
I have a 2001 f250 7.3. Recently started this problem idling at 1000 Rpms when stopped completely and when I let off the gas pedal it idles real funny like it's fixing to run out of fuel. It does not do this all the time however. At times it runs great. I had my mechanic scan it and at first it was the exhaust pressure sensor. Replaced it and it ran fine for awhile and it started doing again. Took it back in to get re scanned and it was throwing a bad ICM code. Replaced this as well and I'm still having the same problem. Had it scanned again and it's not throwing any codes now. I have no check engine light on and as long as I'm on the gas pedal it runs great. It's just when I roll up to stop or when I'm stopped completely. Again it does not do it all the time.
View 9 Replies2001, F250, 4x4, 432,000 miles...
Seems this truck eats up bearing assemblies. Its like every 2-3 years, I'm having to replace one side or the other. And we talking like 30-40,000 miles....
BTW.... although I'm not out doing much 4x4 driving, this truck does do a lot of dirt roads, probably over 50%...