Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F250 - Fuel Leak - Not Water Separator Valve O-Rings
Jul 20, 2017
I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
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Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
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What is the part number for the gasket that goes on the water separator on a 2003 6.0 diesel.
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I've had an engine oil leak for some time. Recently I've had to add about a quart a month. I got some fluorescent dye and added it to the engine oil last time I added a quart. Ran the engine for a few weeks. Then cleaned the engine valley with cleaner and hot water.
Tonight I investigated the top of the engine with a black light. To my surprise, the oil leak is coming from the fuel bowl, right around the drain valve. I can clearly see about a drop every 3 seconds of fluorescent yellow liquid falling into the valley below and yellow all around the valve.
I expected a leak from the HPOP not the fuel bowl. Do I have a bigger problem? Is engine oil getting into the fuel? I plan to replace the seals in the fuel bowl, but not until I know whether I have a larger problem to address.
2001 F250 Crewcab, 220,000 miles
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Anyway, Just bought a used 2015 F350. I want to drain the water separator as the dealer can't tell me when it was done last. Anyway, I read how to do it, but once you drain it, what do you do with the diesel that drains out with?
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty V8 7.3 L. I removed the water-pump then waited five days for the oring for the new pump. I installed it and now the truck will not start. I have drained the fuel water separator and replaced the filter. On the passengers side through the kick panel I found that button popped out so I pushed it back in and still it will not run. It acts like its not getting fuel but if my fuel water separator is filing up I'm assuming mu fuel pump is working??
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2001 F250 7.3L 280k... On a 50 ish degree day or if the truck is cool on a warmer day I'm getting an inconsistent idle lowest end 450rpm high end maybe 750. Wondering now what the possible causes may be, truck seems to run fine and idle ok once warmed up but still cycles the revs a little, AC is off.
Second question is about an oil leak, doesn't seem to be massive but it leaves a small pool, especially if she's plugged in. It seems to be coming from underneath the truck driver side large metal tube system running front to back on the engine, just under the manifold I think.
I checked HPOP connections and they are solid no leaking but here's a pic from under the truck, can't see any of this from the top. Is it an easy fix??
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3. Recently started this problem idling at 1000 Rpms when stopped completely and when I let off the gas pedal it idles real funny like it's fixing to run out of fuel. It does not do this all the time however. At times it runs great. I had my mechanic scan it and at first it was the exhaust pressure sensor. Replaced it and it ran fine for awhile and it started doing again. Took it back in to get re scanned and it was throwing a bad ICM code. Replaced this as well and I'm still having the same problem. Had it scanned again and it's not throwing any codes now. I have no check engine light on and as long as I'm on the gas pedal it runs great. It's just when I roll up to stop or when I'm stopped completely. Again it does not do it all the time.
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We have been having near zero temps for several days and it occurred to me that there may be some amount of water in the water separator in the rail mounted fuel filter (not enough to send a message, but maybe some amount). I only have 3,000 miles on the truck. So, just wondering if a small amount of water is going to hurt anything in the filter or filter housing if it freezes? Should I drain the filter in freezing weather even though enough water hasn't collected enough to activate a message?
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So I just put billowed up pipes and changed the broken O ring in the turbo housing. Put everything back together and checked for a boost leak with the home made tester. Boots and everything ARE OK. I can hear air escaping from what seems to be the valve cover or intake. I realize that I am charging my crank case as well but it still concerns me that air is escaping from somewhere besides the CCV. I read the following forum and this guy had the same issue and after he found out he was charging his crank case he was no longer worried. . . . .
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After checking my fuel bowl today for contaminants, I put the lid back on and then noticed a leak from the rear at drain valve. I know, I already ordered the orings. It was doing one drip about every three seconds with the truck running. However, I turned the yellow thing a couple times and the leak stopped. Not leaking right now. Maybe it wasn't shut from previous owner.
Second question.....After stopping leak and after routing my fuel drain hose, I decided to give it a try. No luck. Nothing out or drain. Based on my first fuel filter change, it may be clogged up. So, do I run wire from the bottom up? Or do I run wire from top (bowl) down? Just so you know, sucked the bowl dry with a vacuum device before I reinstalled the filter.
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Well, my water separator light has been coming on and going off for the past week. Today, I finally thought about it while drinking a beer, and decided I'd pull the plug to see what I can catch.
As you can see from the pictures, this brownish color crap comes flowing out, followed by clean fuel. What it is? I've drained the separator in the past, but never have I seen this come out.
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My 1999 F-350 7.3 is leaking from the turbo pedestool o-rings, from what my mechanic tells me. I would like to do this myself as it does not seem overly hard. This is my first diesel truck and am not quit sure how to do it. Looking for instructions or pointers on the process? I am a decent mechanic, but just have no clue on diesel engines and hoping to learn.
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I've got a water leak in to the cab of my truck. I have a 1999 with the Super cab. I'm pretty sure it is at the back wall of the cab. There are two rectangular (I guess) vents that duct to the out side. The floorboard is not wet, but the very bottom of the carpet on the passenger side is. What are these vents for? We've had a lot of rain, I figure that's where the water is coming from. What is an easy fix this.
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I have a 2002 F350 7.3L w/superchips programmer, k+n cold air intake. Does NOT smoke a lot from tailpipe
Not running rough since I changed my oil to rotella 5w-40w synthetic.
Appears to have good amount of blow by coming from the oil fill when engine is warm.
Can Bad Injector O Ring(s) cause blow by and oil consumption?
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I replaced the rings on all 8 injectors put in 8 new glow plugs and a relay. My truck is still putting out grey/ white smoke at start up. It goes away after about a minutes. Truck runs a little rough a first then smooths out. I know some smoke after doing a job like this is to be expected but I was thinking I t would go away by now. I've been running through my head what I might of done wrong but I can't think of anything.
Does it just need all new injectors and not just rings ?
2001 f250 7.3
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Truck is a completely stock 2002. New injector o-rings, glow plugs, valve cover harness, and injector cups a year ago... all motorcraft parts. New batteries and starter in the last 6 months.
I've checked the GPR both at the relay and harness got power all the way to the valve cover harness on all 8. Injector buzz test sounds okay as well.
Had a stuck IPR issue a few moths ago that caused a CEL and died while running. Took apart and cleaned the IPR and CEL is gone truck runs great once started and has correct IPR pressures in all RPM ranges.
Truck runs great once it is started and is not sluggish until warm like when it was hard to start when cold with leaking injector o-rings.
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If the fuel relief valve is stuck open would it possibly throw a P1316 code?
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My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
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My 2000 F350 7.3 has been stalling out with the water in fuel sensor for the last to tanks of fuel. I thought I needed to buy a new Titan fuel tank, I pulled the tank and was surprised to see that my tank was not a metal tank, It's polyethylene, I bought the truck in California with 60,000 miles it has 180,000 miles now. It was sold new in Canada, I expected the tank to be metal with the the liner coming off.
The two fuel filters in the tank are just about plugged solid I'll be removing them and repiping the return line. When I repipe the return line do I put the duck bill on the end or just leave it open? Also I searched the web for hours looking for a stock size polyethylene tank with no luck. On the bottom of the tank I found The ford part #s. I'm going to siphon the fuel out of the tank today. and reinstall....
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Just wondering if your fuel drain valve leaks at the knob when you are draining for water? I opened mine yesterday to drain it for the first time and fuel went EVERYWHERE!! Unlike the 6.4 that I was able to use a bottle to capture the fuel in, my 6.7 leaks around the knob and comes out the drain port. After some very colorful words, I got it drained and then closed. I mean, why put a drain port on it if it is going to come out around the know and soak you.
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