Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F250 - Dash Light Starting To Go Out / Bulb Replacement
May 3, 2005
I have a 2001 F250 Crew Cab with Powerstroke. The dash lights are starting to go out one at a time. How do I get to and replace the bulbs?
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I've got a light burned out on my dashboard. No big deal (it still gets some light from an adjacent bulb) but just out of curiosity: How big a nightmare would it be to replace a lightbulb in the dash of a 2001 F-250 XL?
Do you have to pull the motor/trans and lift the cab off the frame like I've been told you need to do to replace a heater core? Local mechanics laughed at that job and told me to get some stop leak...
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So I replaced all the rings on my injectors . After putting them back in turned the engine over 5-7 times by hand with the glow plugs out. Then I turned it over with them out as well with the valve covers off. After than I installed everything back in. Now is my problem. I've turned it over 5 times and no luck. Not even on turn over. The oil light keeps coming on?? The indicator doesn't move up at all. It will go up and come down ? Is something wrong with the hpop? Should I keep cranking? Gotta to charge the batteries now..
2001 f250 7.3
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2001 F250 7.3l 294k miles
Ok so truck has always had difficulty starting cold since I got it about 12k miles ago. Replaced glow plugs, that made things slightly better but still no start unless temp gauge was in that first line above the C. Changed to Rotella, immediately after oil change starts better and at slightly colder temps.
Since getting the truck when you turn the ignition on you can hear a 'whistling' type noise which I believe is the fuel system pressurising. That used to last as long as the chimes did when you first turn the ignition on. More recently it lasts a lot longer.
Towed recently and had intermittent check engine light - believe this could be HPOP related, haven't checked codes yet as we're on vacation. No oil in the valley. But I do have a little oil carry over in the turbo intercooler pipes.
Truck slightly sluggish at setting off initially and then picks up reasonably well when not towing but my Dyno says I'm putting a bit more pedal to get the same performance from say two months ago
Pretty sure injectors haven't been changed since truck was new but can't be absolutely certain as there is no history. I was surmising this is probably both a HPOP and injector age issue but only from what I've found searching...
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I have a 2002 f250 screw. my door ajar light is lit up on the dash. I have tried the wd40 trick, pulled the sensors and bench tested them. What are the codes the instrument cluster test has for each door?
What I am thinking is, if we get a list posted it would be much easier to diagnose the door sensors for others. there should be a open/closed bit for each door. possibly a code for all doors open too. I am curious if there is a code for bad communication on the VSM.
From what I have read, correctly working the doors should read 00 when they are closed. drivers front open=80, pass front open=40 ... My door code does not change no matter what combination of door open/close I use.
Truck is 2002 f250 crew cab ...
My code is C0 ...
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I was to leave tomorrow for a trip with three horses. Last night when I parked my truck the dome light went on and off and there was a noise (like a relay opening and closing?) coming from the area. (I have been having issues with the turn signal getting "tired". At times they would only come on solid then other times try would quit after sitting at a long light.)
Checked my manual for fuses to this issue and I removed the fuse in the spot indicated for the "dome and courtesy lights", number 14. Actually I had removed spot number 15 (5amp). This ended the noise. Drove the truck after and all seemed in order, cruise control, turn signals, interior lights! This was the incorrect fuse according to the book! This event occurred with the ignition in the OFF position. Not wanting to start my trip before I get this in order.
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Have no OD, when you press the OD button nothing happens and then the OD light flashes until she's shut down. On start up no flashing until OD button pressed. All other gears shift lovely. Haven't checked codes yet.
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About a year ago, my airbag indicator light threw a code 47. It did this for about two days, then it stopped. Fast forward to this weekend, and it started again. From what I can tell, it is the passenger side seat belt pretensioner. It could be a coincidence, but my daughter pulled the seat recline lever without anyone being in the seat, causing it to fly forward as if James Bond was ejecting someone through the windshield. The next time I started my truck, it was throwing the code. I tried to check to see if the plug was knocked loose during the ejection sequence. I thought the connector was under the passenger seat, but I don't see any wiring (the passenger seat is manual). My next guess was behind the glove box, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for.
My truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 Lariat.
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How to change my map light bulbs over the front seat of my new (to me) 2010 F250 King Ranch with a sunroof. I have tried to remove the whole assembly with a plastic trim tool with no success. I have pulled as hard as I dare and figure there must be a procedure I am missing. It appears to me that the whole assembly has to be pulled down.
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Battery light comes on when the truck is running at less than about 1200rpm, but I see zero movement on the needle. Weird thing is i charged the batteries and tested the alternator with my multimeter and it was reading 14.1-14.2 which is nominal. Run it for about 10 min then it reads 12.3-12.8
I'm thinking a bad cell in the battery or alternator is going out. Oh and all the connections are tight, wires look good. 2001 f250 4wd 7.3 intake exhaust basic tuner gauges. Could the constant heat be a factor?
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'99 F-250 7.3 PS 2WD Automatic 246,000 miles
Jumped in my truck a bit ago and it wouldn't start, although it is turning over. The "Wait to Start" light is not coming on and the Overdrive button on the shifter is lit up OFF and won't change with me pressing the button. I've checked all the fuses under hood and inside cab with multimeter and everything checks out ok.
Also, when it was raining last week I found that when I turned on my windshield wipers the truck would die. My solution to get home was to just flip it back & forth real quick every so often so I could see out the windshield.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil. I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. If you need any info off the scangauge let me know and I will post the exact readings. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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So the water pump on my early 99 (158k miles) is starting to leak just sitting in the driveway, did a little research last night and read a few write ups. Just wondering if any tips or tricks I could use to make this go easier. Also any list of parts I should replace and/or might need. I read on one write up about replacing it with an Airtex water pump and was wondering about what people thought of those, I would rather fix it right then just go with the cheapest parts. Possibly there are better brand water pumps out there?
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How to remove the orange cover to replace the bulb in the driver side mirror - tried but worried I'm going to break it...
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How hard is the water pump to replace on 1999 f250 7.3 ...
Any thing special i need to know before tackling this job ...
Also is there any step by step instructions ???
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Passenger tail light bulb went out who knows when, but was alerted about it today. Every other time this has happened, in multiple vehicles, the turn signal blinks rapidly to let you know the bulb is out. Mine blinked normally.
In the past year I've had to change my multi function switch and more recently the flasher relay for the blinkers. Just a standard relay from the parts store, not the heavy duty one or anything. It did say it was LED compatible, so I wonder if that is why it didn't pick it up? Why I didn't get the rapid blinking?
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I have a 1995 f-250 7.3 liter diesel engine. Truck starts fine and runs good for a while and then it will stall. I pull over and after a couple of attempts it will start and run fine for a while. I have changed the fuel filter and put fresh fuel in but it still stalls.
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I have a new to me 1999 F250 with the 7.3 engine. The previous owner installed a push button start to get around the ignition actuator being broke. Over the weekend I pulled the column and replaced the actuator but the truck will still not start with the key; with the push button it starts just fine. I'm not getting any power on the starter relay signal wire, so I suspect something in between the key and starter relay. I searched around a bit, but could not find a wiring diagram for a 1999 diesel super duty.
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I just bought a 00 f250 cc that originally came out of Canada so the speedo and mileage is all in kilometers. I have bought a use cluster that is in standard units to replace it with. I am just curious if all I have to do is replace the cluster or if there is other thing that need to be replace as well to make it work right.
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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My 01 4x4 F350CCD was having this "issue" where, after leaving it plugged in all night, I would start it up with no problems but then after idling for maybe 15-30 seconds it would just fade out and shut off. The first few times I would hit the key again and it would crank for an extended period but then refire and it would idle normally. Eventually I learned that if I held the idle up at around 1000 I could see the rpm drop slightly after starting but it wouldn't shut off.
About a week ago I started the truck and wasn't paying attention and didn't hold the throttle open and the truck shut off. This time after cranking it (probably way to much) it wouldn't start at all. I changed the fuel filter but that did nothing. I also notice that the tach does move to around 500 or so when cranking. I have not changed the CPS but a new one had been installed in May 2015. The engine is cranking but there is no white smoke or even attempt to fire.
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