Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F250 - Cranks But Won't Start
May 23, 2016
I have 2001 7.3 f250 ... I just got it about 2 months ago I drove it for maybe 2 week and it ran good the other morning I went out to start it and would not start and the way I was parked my low fuel light was on so I put 5 gallons of fuel in finally got it started sum how drove it for maybe 2 hrs parked it and wen we got back in to go it was done for hasn't started since its been down for a bout 2 weeks now I've replaced hpop, icp, pcm, fuel filter,checked idm for corrosion it all looks well, gpr,checked uvch on driver side looked good and changed cps what else do I have to go from ? No matter what it won't start good batteries cranks good but no start ...
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I have a '99 F250, 7.3, CCSB with just over 127K on the clock. I went out of town for 10 days and was ready to get out of the grocery getter and into my truck. I hop in and it cranks great but would not start. I pop the hood and start with the easy stuff. Made sure all plugs/connections were good, check. Relays and fuses are still in good order (under hood and dash), check. Fuel pump was replaced less than a month ago (works great) with fuel in fuel bowl (new filter), check. Try to start a few more times with no luck, so I tinkered around for few more minutes and it starts right up and drives perfect.
Drive around, truck is on and off as usual throughout the day and go back to work next day around 10:30. Truck starts as normal. Get to work and have to run out but truck doesn't start again. After key is in on position for 15-20 minutes while checking fuses and such it starts up and runs perfect. I drive around for 20 minutes and return. I got off about 5 hours later and it doesn't start. Leave key in on position while I'm explaining issues to a buddy again 15-20 while key is on it starts right up. I drive home and park and I haven't been able to start it since.
From reading forums and watching you tube I'm leaning towards IPV or CPS but no one has described the problem as I've had. I do not have monitors, tuner, or anything aftermarket but I'm a mechanic and have a descent set of tools at home.
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I have a 2003 f250 with the 5.4 in it. When I bought the truck the odometer and fuel gauge weren't working. So I tried disconnecting the battery and when I hooked it back up the odometer started working again and the fuel gauge went from below empty up to full then just dropped back down to below empty and won't move at all. I haven't tried disconnecting the battery again. And I know more than likely I will have to replace sending unit but trying not to if I don't have to.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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I have an issue with my 2001 f350 7.3 PSD. Intermittently it will not start. It will crank really quick, but will not even try to start. I think it is not getting fuel. There are no CEL codes and I have a WTS light and the tach is moving while cranking. I hear a clicking/buzzing sound coming from under te center opf the dash. When I hear that sound it will not start. checked fuses and relays and it started before. not sure if removing the fue made whatever reset. this has happened a couple times. Now it will not reset. When I remove the number #24 fuse under the hood, the clicking stops. when i crank it, but still doesn't start. When it starts in runs perfect. Drained the batteries trying to trouble shoot, but have them charger now.
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2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
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2001 f250 7.3 with 210,000 miles. Was running rough when cold and glow plugs were bad so I bought new glow plugs and had injectors rebuilt with 100% over stock nozzles. When I changed them I made sure I turned the motor with glow plugs out and pulled the drain plug in the head. Wanted to start it just to get the oil out before I let it sit for a few days til I got the tuner. It started fine and I let it run while I ran in the house and when I came back out about 1 min later it was off. Didn't want to start again. Just left it til I got the tuner on and It still doesn't want to start. What I should check? Turns over good and has good batteries. Also it's a hydra chip tuner with beans tunes. Darren weeks rebuilt the injectors.
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So I have a 2001 f250 7.3l and on my way to work yesterday while driving down a hill I switched my ts 6 switch to 140 and it immediately stalled, so I pulled over and restarted the truck and it started up fine and I drove the rest of the way to work, I go to start it after work and it won't start, it just cranks and cranks and cranks, occasionally it'll fire and I got it to start and was able to rev it for about 30 seconds but then it died, disconnect the 6 position switch from the idm and tried but still nothing.
So today I replaced the ipr valve, got everything back together still won't start maybe a little worse now, I know it's getting fuel cause there's pressure in the bowl when I try to take it off, there's a new icp valve, cps, new fuel filter and new sending unit, the hpop is topped off. Also I noticed when I went to change the ipr the wires on the plug were bare and touching so I addressed that, I don't know what else it could be?
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2002 Ford F250 super duty 7.3L Diesel Automatic I crank but wont start and run.
Background:
I live in NY, last winter (2013-2014) fuel pump stopped working, I discovered this website, changed my fuel pump although mine worked fine after I did it, Power was not going to my fuel pump, took apart truck to follow wires to find the problem, wires come from the fuel pump into the CPU and Fuse box, relay is built in fuse box, changed fuse box, truck started, from early spring to summer ran without problems, in summer friend ran truck dry without filling up luckily he threw it in neutral and shut off engine rolled it to a stop, Filled up truck after a few tries it starts up. A week later the fuel filter o-ring rips and spews diesel all over engine, changed filter ran for a week and o-ring poped out again, changed to a different o-ring and ran for a month without problems. Then poped again, and again, each time approximately a week later.
Latest winter (2014-2015)
I start my truck to warm up go inside and forgot all about it, about 1.5 hours later I remember my truck is started, go outside to find it shut off with diesel all over the pavement, the o-ring blew again. I changed it, cranked the engine and it started and ran for 10 seconds before stalling. I turned the key a few times to try and have my fuel pump run, and it would crank but not start. Then it started to crank really slow,(batteries were now already on charge) it was below freezing for a good whole week now, found my oil heating plug and waited a day, cranked it the next day, cranked faster but did not start, waited another day and when I tried to start it the starter would not turn.
Today:
So today, winter is almost over(if you lived here you would understand) I find out I blew my starter and changed it, I replaced the o-ring with [ 90025K557Double-Seal X-Profile O-Ring, Oil-Resistant Buna-N, Dash Number 347 ] from Mcmaster.com as suggested on this site. I cranked the engine, It started ran for 30 seconds and stalled. I tried turning the key a couple of times to get fuel going(fuel pump seems to be working), but crank and wont run. My father suggested starter fluid, got couple cans, I was able to start the truck with starter fluid and keep it running until the can ran out.
It wont start and run on its own like it did the first time I tried.
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Ok I've got an 01 F250 sd 7.3 with 257k on it it just started talking longer to start than it should it will do it cold or hot even if I shut it off at the drive thru takes it like 10 sec or more to fire. My question is I thought about purchasing a autoenginuity to find the problem but not sure the best place to get and what model I should get.
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I went on deployment and handed the wife to crank the truck up she did but didn't drive it so batteries didn't charge back up. I got them charged up and the truck cranked right up. I was plugging it in at night and it would start just fine the next morning. Then a week later batteries kept dying in a few hours during the day. Had to jump it again. then even when plugged in trying to crank it there was a buzzing noise and it would crank but not start. I bought new batteries and it cranked right up and drove fine until I shut it off and same problem and batteries were low again and it will crank but wont turn over. I am thinking maybe alternator.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty V8 7.3 L. I removed the water-pump then waited five days for the oring for the new pump. I installed it and now the truck will not start. I have drained the fuel water separator and replaced the filter. On the passengers side through the kick panel I found that button popped out so I pushed it back in and still it will not run. It acts like its not getting fuel but if my fuel water separator is filing up I'm assuming mu fuel pump is working??
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I found a 01 7.3 with 165K miles on it from a guy willing to part with it for 3,000 but it will crank over but wont stay running.
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Ive got a 99 7.3 with 250,000 miles on it. It has run fine all day but just jumped in and won't start. It cranks over but won't fire. Check engine light doesn't come on. About two weeks ago it cut off twice at idle but haven't had that problem since.
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I have a '99 7.3 that I am working on for a friend. He was moving out west and got to the next state. He stopped to use the washroom, when he came out, the truck would crank but not start. He had it towed back to my house. I have some diagnostic information. Fuel pressure measured at the fuel rail in the head is 60 PSI for the passenger side head. I pulled the plug on the drivers side, it was under pressure and sprayed fuel.. I did not measure it there.
WTS light comes on and then goes off in a normal time frame. Tach shows around 500 RPM while cranking. Engine oil pressure on dash gauge builds up and Low Press Light goes off. Pulled the plug on the High Pressure Oil Res., oil is present at the top. Are there any other checks that I can do until I can get a scanner. My friend has a Snap-On, but he's almost 100 miles away.
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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My '99 f350 lost a lot of power the other day, turned out the the injector harness got unplugged. So I swapped those out for oem ones, ohm tested the uvch and injector harness, put a brand new GPR, and still nothing. Cranks over but won't start, what else could it be?
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This past weekend I noticed I was loosing boost pressure on my 2003 7.3l F250 so I pulled my turbo out found the problem fixed it then put the turbo back in. After it was all said and done I went to start the truck up and it just cranked and cranked a cranked but no start. Worried I didn't hook something up right I checked and rechecked everything to do with the turbo, all good nothing out of the ordinary.
I tried to start again, nothing. Spent all day yesterday trying to figure this out. Replaced the cps still nothing. No movement in tach but I don't remember any on startup anyway. Drained the fuel filter had adequate pressure and such but replaced the filter anyway. Still nothing. Checker all my fuses, one by on and non were blown but I still tried disconnecting my fuel bowl heater and still got nothing. I tried disconnecting the Icp still nothing. There was no oil around the icp either.
I'm getting frustrated that the truck wont start, the truck ran perfectly fine before the turbo removal but now wont even give a sign of kicking up. Just cranks and cranks. Also checked Hpop to see if that's the cause and it's filled like to the brim. But when I'm cranking the truck about 10 sec into the oil pressure gauge kicks up and reads good but only when cranking.
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I have a 2002 f350 psd. I pulled it inside today to wash it. After washing it wouldn't start. Pcm is working. No oil pressure on guage and no reading on tach.
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Truck cranks wont start. Fuses and relays good, New motorcraft; IPR, ICP with pigtails, New T500 hpop, New 180/80 Injectors, Push rods, 910 valve springs, Mellings lpop. Motorcraft oil cooler.
Reservoir full, oil new 15-40w Amsoil, Rails full, Fuel bowl full and clean, HPOP drive gear rechecked and torqued.
RPM 180
Temp oil 88*
ICP duty cycle koeo 14.8, crank 64.85
ICP pressure 250 -450psi
ICP voltage .27-.50
Manual gauge on oil rail 250 -450psi when cranking
Inj pulse width .0005,
Buzz test was good
Vref 5v all sensors. 12v at IPR w/koeo
Fuel pressure 58psi
Air test hpop hear no leaks with stethoscope.
DTC codes: P1280, P0380
Also put straight edge across injectors to double check they were seated.
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I have a 99 Ford e350 7.3 Powerstroke with about 150000KMS on the clock. However I am having a really hard time starting it in the Cold Canadian Winter (-30). Last week I changed all 8 glowplugs, the batteries, the oil, fuel, fuel filter and yes i always keep it plugged in.
It cranks really well, but it just wont fire not even with a shot of start fluid. I don't know anything about these trucks much less a diesel engine. A guy took a look at it and said my engine needs to b replaced. (I think he is wrong)....
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