I have a 2001 7.3 and have found the engine oil dipstick coming out of the dipstick tube by 6 - 8 inches on three different occasions. Did not think much of it until my other 2000 7.3 did the same thing.
What causes this as afraid it will come all the way out and get into the serpentine belt.
The dipstick tube flange is now leaking ....
View 3 RepliesI had a leak at the flange several months ago. I fixed it with the diesel o rings kit. I made a trip from TX to AL with no leaking and drive it daily without leaks. But, 2 weeks ago noticed a small dribble of a leak from the same spot again - not enough to leave a mark on the pavement but any leaking drives me nuts. I applied some RTV. It worked for the 2 weeks.
Today, noticing another dribble of a leak coming through the RTV down the pan. I'm thinking the flange is bent and not keeping that o-ring sealed against the pan. I'm going to try to apply some additional RTV at the leak spot. If this doesn't work? Is that Strictly Diesel adapter really worth that kind of dough? Is pushing the OEM adapter into the pan really acceptable? Any other options?
So after a hot drive yesterday we thought to do some googling about our clutch cycling on and off so fast. Yep, the airgap was out of spec. Fixed that.
Then we added some refrigerant to the truck. The truck is "new to us" and this is our first summer with it so not sure what might've gone on previously with the AC. Didn't take long to find a rather sizable leak. :P
See that metal tube going into the "spongy" area? Yeah, that's where it seems to be coming out. That tube is the only one that's cold, the rest are ambient temp. We fix a lot on our jeeps, but the AC system is naturally a bit out of our wheel house since it's not something you normally tangle with. Is this an easy fix? Or do we need to take it in to get serviced?
I got a 97 F250 4x4 w/ 4.6 lt. motor & auto trans. The engine is leaking oil. It looks to be coming from a set of hoses that are on the adaptor that is between the oil filter & the engine block. Also what are the oil lines called? It is leaking motor oil not transmission oil.
Also just pulled my oil dip stick & the whole thing (dip stick & the tube) came off the truck. Seems the tube has rotted away at the oil pan. Is this also a job I can do?
OK, so I have a 01 f350sd and i went to check my oil and the dipstick tube itself is so rusted it snapped in half so I took it to the dealer which I knew was going to be over priced labor but still checked the tube itself is 20 dollars but labor is upwards of 300-500... My engine is the 5.4 triton.
View 2 RepliesFord F-150, 1999, 4WD. My dipstick tube has rusted off right at the point where it attaches to the engine block. I purchased a new one but I'm not sure if that's a job I can do on my own. What installing a new tube will entail?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
I've got smoke coming out of my oil dipstick tube. 1996 Mercury Mystique 2.0L automatic, 62000 miles. I noticed a burning oil smell after a short (10 mile) drive, and checked the oil when I got home. A few wisps of smoke smelling of burning oil came out of the dipstick tube when I removed the stick. I was just curious how worried I should be about this.
As far as I can tell, my cooling system works (radiator hoses are warm, good hot air from the vents, thermostat and coolant recently replaced, hoses inspected, no leaks) and I'm not thinking the burnt oil is caused by overheating. There hasn't been any noticeable oil consumption, and I'm pretty diligent about checking the oil on this old car. Oil changes every 3000 miles since I've owned the car; dealer performed scheduled maintenance for the old owners.
Here's my thinking: a worn piston ring allowing oil to be burnt and then sucked back through into the crankcase. When I changed my spark plugs, I did notice an oily residue on one of the plugs (cylinder #1), which also leads me towards a piston ring diagnosis (though I was hoping it was a valve seal causing the oily spark plug, or even a spark plug seal). Do a wet compression test is in order, or should I go ahead and get a leakdown test? I am going to buy a compression tester, but I do not have an air compressor to use with the leakdown tester; I'd have to take it to a shop.
I do need to service the PCV system (and would have done it today, but the parts hadn't arrived at the store) -- would a PCV problem cause the oil to burn, though?
Pulled my dipstick out to repair the flange seal where the tube goes into the pan. Now it sticks out about 2 inches. Ive tried putting it in both ways. Now it was sitting in my truck over the front seats with the center armrest down, so it may have gotten bent the wrong way? I read a few tricks online Ill try after lunch here. I did have some vice grips on the tube to try to get it off of the flange, but I took my fingers and felt the entirety of the tube and didnt feel and dents or irregular bends. Right now the tube is held by zipties, as I had to cut the bracket off, its a long story. . . So is that something that would make it stop short? Does this truck have a 2nd tube that sticks into the oil pan or is it just the one?
View 13 RepliesI am doing some maintenance and trying to replace my EBP tube and sensor. I luckily have the dual alternator package, so getting the tube in and out has been a pain to say the least. I can't for the life of me get the tube back into place. As always, a 20 minute job is taking me 2 days.
View 14 RepliesI've had a shifter-related short on my instrument panel and stereo lights for close to two years now, and it finally got so bad I had to dig in and decided to proactively replace the shift tube while I was digging in. After all, the existing one had 290K miles on it. Although the lighting issue drove me to replace the shifter tube in hopes of finding a damaged wire, but this issue has now been moved to a separate thread [URL] ...... The remainder of this thread deals with my difficulty with the new hardware.
So, I compiled all the info I could find on replacing the shifter tube and did the replacement on Saturday (Dorman shifter tube kit from O-Reilly's). The Dorman kit was fine, mechanically, and the parts fit together well. I did, however, have to smooth out some burrs and sharp machining edges where the new nylon bushings go just to prevent premature wear on them from the sub par machining cleanup a the Dorman manufacturer. I also inspected all of the wiring harnesses and connectors carefully, but could not find any evidence of a shorted wire anywhere.
Results... Shifter Movement: Overall, the shift movements are much more secure and smooth as butter, even though the shift arm itself still has slop in it where it gets pinned into the tube housing.
Now that it's all together, though, I can no longer shift down into 1st gear, and getting it into Park to release the key is tedious. I uninstalled and reinstalled the rear shifter bracket three times (the one which is typically related to not being able to get into Park and 1st). I carefully made sure that it was tight and completely flat against the rear of the shift tube each time. I just cannot tell why getting into Park is tougher than it used to be, nor can I find a physical barrier preventing it from getting it into the 1st gear position.
So here are my questions:
1. The steering column mounting flanges have some adjustment slop around the two rear mounting bolts, and the front two bolts also have minimal "adjustment" capability. Is ti possible that my entire shift positioning problem is due to not having the steering column physically mounted in the right alignment and that is restricting motion on the gear shift flex shaft?
2. If the answer to #1 above is "no", then what else do I need to be looking for to resolve this limited shifter movement?
3. There is a solenoid switch at the rear of the shift tube... is it possible that this is going out? I honestly do not suspect it because I have no trouble starting the truck when in Park, but I have not yet verified the effect of being in "R" on whether or not my backup lights come on.
Heading back up to get the last load of antique tractors from the show and something seemed funny. 2 miles later turn into a side Road less power. Pull over. Oil everywhere. Shut it down. Nut completely unthreaded.
Get it on and tighten as best I could with a pair of channel locks one size too small. Dump in a gallon of oil. Now it is just on the stick. Start it and sounds good. Still leaking.
Called a buddy to see if he can get me. Yep sure but his wife is not happy. Something about him going to Texas at 7 am for work for a week..... Give him directions hoping he makes it since he has no sense of direction.
Obs 7.3 stops. Talk to him. He doesn't have anything better for tools on him but lives a mile down the road. Drop the trailer on the side of the road. Drive to his farm and got some better fitting pliers. Either I got too heavy handed or I cross threaded it. Stripped the nut. The flange threads look good.
Drive back to the trailer and sit intersection so my buddy doesn't miss it. Hook my trailer to his truck and get mine loaded. In the end it turned out as best as it probably could have. Pictures to follow when the sun comes up. Time to read up on the dipstick flange. Hoping a new nut and o-rings will fix it.
Rusted dipstick tube I thought was going to be an easy enough fix. Broke off clean at the block. Tried for hours, easy out, prying, vise grips anything I could think of. Well I tried to pry the side of the tube over to make room for my needle nose vise grips, and boom. Down in the oil pan it goes.
Do you think theres any way possible I can fish it out through the drain plug. I really dont want to pull the darn motor.
I would I have a 01 7.3 e350 with 111k miles. I drove the van a couple of days ago.it sat for 2 days and now it wont go past 30mph.the van shakes crazy and went when i hit the petal no power with smoke coming out the tail pipe sometimes. When I shut the van off and restart it to drive it,it sounds better. I changed the fuel filter with motorcraft and changed the oil. Here is the kicker. It ran good after I changed the fuel filter the whole day and now its 4th of july and I went to get some drinks and it happened again.
View 11 RepliesI have a '99 F250 SD 7.3 & im going on a trip next weekend so I thought I'd pull the exhaust pressure sensor & clean the tube in an attempt to get better mileage. Found the sensor & unplugged it. Went to the manifold & started removing the tube when it fell off. 6" from the manifold it's broke & the rest is completely missing.
Autozone doesn't carry this tube so, how important is this sensor?
Recently I came across a guy parting out his F-250 with a 7.3 powerstroke. Said it had a blown engine, and didn't know what was wrong, but oil was coming out of the exhaust.
My question here is why that's happening. I don't have any experience with the powerstrokes, so I'd like to know what the culprit is before I even consider buying it.
The bolt that holds the dipstick on the valve cover. i have tried for ever to get this thing off. soaked it , got a skinny wrench on the nut underneath but think it might be stripped (1/2 inch grinded out a little). going to try and get a set of skinny wrenches tomorrow , mine bent. tried vise grips on top of the bolt and put a box wrench on the nut , and gave it my all. The damn thing won't budge.
Also, any tips on the rest of the valve cover bolts. I had to remove some from inside the fender well but barely got to them. My question is not getting these out but getting them back in. And how the heck to you torque these things??? The bolt i mentioned above is creating problem, and I only have so much time
I have a 93 Volvo 850 N/A, there is white smoke coming out of the dipstick tube, not alot but enough, also there's like a white/ yellow foam on the dipstick tube, but the coolant has not changed, so im assuming its not a headgasket. I have cleaned out most of the vacuum lines and flame trap but cant find the pvc valve.
View 3 RepliesI have a minor leak at the base of the trans dipstick tube. I assume that the tube is press in ? has an o-ring ? I put some silicone around the area and that worked about a week, the fluid is probably eating through that type sealant. The trans is a 4r70. Seems to me that the actual tube should be ok and having never dealt with replacing one I want a little advice before yanking it out.
View 11 RepliesThe dipstick tube on my 5.4 snap and ive ordered a new one. it looks like it may not be to hard to replace.
View 4 Replies