Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - Crank And Start Then Idle For Few Seconds And Shut Off?
Nov 5, 2015
I've developed a problem, usually when starting, that the truck will crank over, start and idle for a few seconds and then shut off. The few seconds it idles it doesn't get any throttle input. I'll crank it back over taking a little more than usual to get it started. When it does start it seems slightly sluggish but that quickly, like almost immediately goes away and the throttle is working again.
Oh, 2001, 7.3 stock w/200k
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
Alright, my 1999 7.3 keeps dying on me in the morning. About two weeks ago I noticed it started to have a weaker start up, even though it has two brand new batteries. Once it starts up, I get around the block and it dies there every time. Then I have to crank it for about 15 seconds for it to start again.
The crank gets faster and faster until it finally start, and the engine is very choppy, like its starving for fuel. After about ten seconds of that it return back to a smooth idle. I then take off, and about 50 yards later it does the same thing. After it does it the second time, the truck runs just fine for the rest of the day with no problems.
I have noticed that when if I turn the truck on and let it idle for 10 minutes first in the morning, it won't die on me. I replaced the camshaft position sensor thinking it was that, but it wasn't.
View 2 Replies
My truck occasionally gets a hot no start issue and it's been happening more frequently. Mostly it happens if I drive it up to operating temp turn it off for a short time, then try to start up again. Usually, if I wait 15min to an hour it will start up. It has died on me while driving too, then I have to wait and periodically try it. I've noticed in this situation that if my glow plugs turn on for only a short time, it won't start. But once the motor has cooled enough that the glow plugs stay on for the longer duration, then it will start right up.
I've replaced the CPS, rebuilt the IPR, did the ICP unplug test, rebuilt the injectors, replaced the fuel filter.
HPOP oil level is good, changed the oil maybe 500mi ago. When it's a no start, the low oil pressure gauge does start to read after some cranking, also the tach does read. It throws no DTCs. My reader isn't able to monitor live sensor data.
There is some oil in the valley, but I can't find the source. I think it's probably the turbo pedestal. What else should I check?
View 14 Replies
i have a 2001 f250 7.3L PSD. it turns over but will not run. replaced the CPS , starter and the #30 fuse. IPR is new and all injectors are new, new gaskets and harness and new glow plugs new batteries. still just cranks and cranks. no oil pressure build up and no tach movement, oil level is good in HPOP. What could it be?
View 14 Replies
I've replaced the alternator and starter recently and both batteries and the truck ran fine befor that. But it sat for roughly 2 months and now it seems as if its not getting fuel. Will start with a shot of ether but will die as soon at it burns it off
View 14 Replies
I purchased this unit, non running, was told the HPOP was bad, after going through the unit top to bottom, Im stumped, below is a list of items serviced and or replaced with OEM parts.
0. changed oil and oil filter
1. Terminator 500 Hpop
2. New ICP
3. New HPOP lines.
4. New starter and solenoid
5. Serviced Turbo (rebuilt with new parts and WW wheel)
6. Serviced Injectors (shimmed) all test good.
7. new pass and driver harness, UVHC replaced, glow plugs replaced.
8. new heavy duty GPR
9. Tested IDM no issues.
10. Hutch mod on tank (re-circulator was stopped up) deleted it, added inline filter.
11. serviced fuel bowl with new parts, upgraded parts on fuel bowl new blow off valve, new drain valve, tested heater all good no blown fuses.
12 replaced faulty fuel pump
Might be leaving something out of this list, the truck has run but only for very short periods of time, (hence the dropping of the fuel tank)
fuel pressure at 70 psi, some white smoke, connected to on board computer, checked every conceivable possibility No DTC codes, my gut tells me it has to be fuel related but at this point I just have run out of things to check.
I have tested everything with a fluke multimeter, including the IDM and all the circuits to the 42 as well as all the way to the injectors and glow plugs and find nothing wrong all tests yield valid readings,
There may be other information available but my after market scanner does not show any issue, KOEO buzz test results good.
The three times I have had this unit running it was dumping lots of white smoke, however after the last round of dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump the white smoke has dropped to a minimum, but cannot get the truck to run, cranks, wants to start, almost starts, got it up to 800 RPM last try but just will not go beyond that point.
I cannot find anything wrong, must be something I am either missing or its something my cheap scanner can't pick up on.
View 7 Replies
I am a new and very happy 7.3 owner. i have lurking around these forums and decided I didn't want to be a creeper anymore. So onto the fun stuff.
Yesterday my wife was exiting a freeway and the Ex shut off while exiting. once she came to a complete stop she tried turning it on and it would start then immediately shut off. she was able to turn it on and it would run then shut off as she drove across the intersection. once she made it across a good samaritan offered to park it for her. She noticed a little bit of black smoke but she told me that the guy was revving it to keep it running.
Luckily there was family at the mall and she waited for the flat bed to arrive. it sat for about 2 hours and they tried starting it and it would start then die. no more black smoke though. we had it towed to a diesel repair shop and they went to start it today and alas it started right up. they let it idle for 30 minutes and it was good. they test drove it and all good. they ran the codes and got the following:
P1876
B1352
B1483
U1147
One thing I did notice a couple of weeks ago, while driving on the freeway cruising about 65, the Ex surged a little and then ran fine. then another time it surged a little while idling. Some more info on the rig. it has a banks six gun tuner and has a cold air intake and exhaust. And it has a Banks Big Head wastegate. I bought the rig 2 months ago and changed all the filters and fluids.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2001 Excursion 7.3 Diesel that is having a starting issue. Have replaced the batteries, has new glow plugs, common failing cam position sensor replaced once already. It runs great when it starts, no codes. It will crank, but not turn over at random times. Will do this for 3 or 4 tries...charge the batteries, go back later to start and it will on the second try. Turn it off, try again..and back to cranking, but not starting. Not fun having to worry about being stranded somewhere. Absolutely desperate at this point.
View 4 Replies
2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
View 7 Replies
I went on deployment and handed the wife to crank the truck up she did but didn't drive it so batteries didn't charge back up. I got them charged up and the truck cranked right up. I was plugging it in at night and it would start just fine the next morning. Then a week later batteries kept dying in a few hours during the day. Had to jump it again. then even when plugged in trying to crank it there was a buzzing noise and it would crank but not start. I bought new batteries and it cranked right up and drove fine until I shut it off and same problem and batteries were low again and it will crank but wont turn over. I am thinking maybe alternator.
View 3 Replies
I just started having an issue on my 01 7.3 f350 with 203k miles, it will crank much longer then normal to start. If you shut it off then try to restart right away it starts normal, if you wait 10 minutes long crank again. if you shut it off and turn key back on but don't start it you can wait an hour then start right away. IDM bad? Vacation in 2 weeks and I would like to get this fixed first.
View 14 Replies
I have a 03 f250 6.0 had it for 2 years never had a problem. Last week I went out and started it to warm it's up as it is cold out here and it started fine I then noticed some thing hanging down under the dash so I started tucking it up under there and it arced and all gauges shut off and the truck shut off. So I took the panel down and it was the biometric pressure sensor that was hanging and the previous owner had a remote start on there that I never knew about and 2 wires on the sensor were stripped and not taped as well as some others. I checked all fuses and relays all working good tested fuse box and everything good there, replaced bio sensor and still nothing turn the key and try to start it and it does nothing injectors, don't precycle fuel pump doesn't run and starter doesn't kick in. I jumped starter off the wire on fender and it turns over but still doesn't start. Also I think it's the ecu but don't want to buy another one if I'm not sure if that's the problem.
View 7 Replies
I have a e99 f350 7.3 all stock. I have no power. The truck will crank for about 15-20sec before it'll turn over. I just purchased the*AE*but am fairly new to understanding it all. In idle its a little rough and when I drive I can only stay in the neighborhood because of fear of getting rearended due to very slow acceleration. Whats weird is that when i have no power while i am driving ill keep the pedal down throw it in nuetral and my rpms and*icp*pressure jump up right away. Things I've replaced:
Icp*sensor
Fuel pump
Pcm
Tps
Cps
Ipr
Dropped tanked and cleaned screens
When cranking my*icp*pressure climbs slowly to right under 500. I dont know what else to do ive been working on this truck dor two months some days 13hs straight, I am feeling defeated. Codes p1249 1211 1209....
View 12 Replies
I have a 2000 F250, 300k. Starts beautifully when cold, takes 10 seconds of cranking when at Operating Temperature. Did the injectors and plugs in September, kept doing it and now that it's summer it's getting harder and harder to start. Just replaced the ipr, still doing it. Gonna do an overdue oil change tonight or tomorrow, I'm hopeing that will improve it. I can understand 3 or 4 sec of cranking, but not 10. Truck hads no drivability issues whatsoever. Will an ICP fix it? Change to a heavy-duty 20w-50? (Last oil change was delo 15w-40) The code reader that I have is really basic, and only shows me RPM and map.
View 14 Replies
This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat. It has the 5.4L Triton motor. I was having starting problems as such the truck would crank and not start or crank, start and barely idle and stall within 5 seconds. It was NOT tripping any lights. I was told it was a possible fuel issue. I have since changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, as well as the hoses in the rear connected to the tank. Truck started, ran great, even seemed to have more power. Ran great for about a week. I was on my way out yesterday about 2 miles from home when the truck just stalled out on me. It is now having the same issues it was having before I changed the pump, filter, etc. What the issue may be? Clogged line? Fuel injector? If it is an injector how can I tell which one?
View 8 Replies
2000 f350 CCLB SRW 176,000. I have a touchy accelerator. About two weeks ago the CEL came on and it wouldn't do anything but idle for about 20-30 sec then fine. Then it got a little worse. I disconnected the two harnesses on the accelerator pedal and sprayed them with electrical cleaner. Put it back together and it seemed to be ok. Today the pedal is real sensitive. Sometimes bogging down other times accelerating real high even tho my foot is pretty consistent and gradually accelerating. No CEL tho. Do you think I am in for a new pedal assembly? Could it be something else? UVCH?
View 13 Replies
My '03 7.3 is "surging" on idle. When warmed up, and idling, the RPMs will drop by 300 or 400 for a few seconds and then will correct and shoot back up. It cycles like this (every 5 seconds-ish) continually . I just put in a new IDM and checked the UVCH - is there a separate idle control mechanism that I need to have a look at? (2003, 7.3, 214K, stock).
View 14 Replies
I've read weeks worth of post to try and fix my late 99.5. First, I'll give syptoms then what has been changed/worked on. While driving at low rpm truck will shut off. As if the key was completely turned off. I am able to throw it in neutral and start back up. Not very safe.
Most the time when I feel the power/electrical loss I can hit the gas pedal fast and most the time "catch it" before it will completely shuts down. Also, I feel a very small "hiccup" at higher speeds. Not often tho.
Changed. Cps. Twice. First aftermarket, second ford.
Changed ICP sensor.
Had dp tuner installed. Right after tuner install abs sensor went out. Like the same day.
I have edge insight for all gauges.
I'm lost.. if these symptoms ring a bell for any of you that would be fantastic. I'm original owner...
View 7 Replies
I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
View 2 Replies
I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
View 14 Replies
