Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - Brake Light Stays On?
Sep 15, 2015
long time ago i had to change master cylinder and the calipers on the fronts and the break fluid well i decided to test it out and see if they were working fter i was done with them then the light on the dash came on i thought its because the floating thing in the master cylinder was not floating which was not the case i dont think its the sensor i also lost my emergency break shoes never replaced em
01 f250 2wd 7.3l v8 diesel straight pipe 310,xxx
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Ok so i have an 02 F350 7.3 with 89k on it ... Ive had the truck about 2 years now and ever since i bought it the ABS light has been on. So finally i got to scanning it and codes popped up for the front speed sensors and the rear speed sensor. So i went ahead and just put all new MOOG hub assemblies in the truck which come with the speed sensor already in the them and i also replaced the rear speed sensor, which was difficult!!! Becuase the bolt was seized and i ended up have to drill and tap a new one and even then the sensor seats in the hole in the diff but doesn't seat flush with the housing if you really tighten it down, and it leaked a little fluid at first but i ended up loosening up the bolt a little to make it seat better and then i put silicone around the bottom of the sensor and it stopped leaking... Anyway I've fixed both the code issues and cleared them, BUT, the rear speed sensor code pops back up immediately after clearing it and the ABS light on my dash stays lit .... Idk what to do at this point because I've fixed everything and it still pops the code for the rear sensor, I just want the Light on my dash to go off thats all ! ...
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Why the heck would my dome lights (front and back) stay on while I'm driving and when the truck is off KOEO and locked? It's not the reading lights, those I can turn on and off at the switch on the light, it's the lights in between them.
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Trying to be proactive seems to have backfired on me. What to do? Pull sensors and clean? Checked codes points to both left and right sides.
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My 2001 F150 has the ABS light on. I can startup and it runs thru the continuity test, light off, in park, no problem. Push on the brake pedal, no problem. Put it in gear and the light comes on, before you start to roll. Should mean its not the speed pickups, i checked them for ohms and 5 volt supply to each. I ran the scanner and got P0703 on the extended codes.
That normally means bad pressure switch on the brake booster. I knew that would effect cruise control and external leaks can be a problem, but could that be related to the 703 code ? Both "brake" related ? I am tempted to buy a switch and install. I do have the factory recall harness on the switch. And check for continuity thru the switch. Has continuity, but only a few ohms, not sure what it should be.
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Here are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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I had my dash apart to install a radio. Didn't really mess with e-brake. Got it all put back together and light on dash is on. Where should I start to fix this? Is the switch with two wires hooked to the e-brake the only way the light can come on? I have worked it manually with no luck.
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2002 F250 7.3 4WD Lariat 129K miles ... Brake lights come on when truck is off/no key ...
Ford replaced VSM in Nov. 2012 for this problem
Ford found rubbing wire upon pedal depression and re-routed wiring in April 2015, again for this same problem.
What gives. I'm hesitant to take it back to the Ford house... any theories??
Also, when ignition is in "on" position, transmission and coolant gauge register "cold". Upon starting, coolant stays at "cold" but tranny gauge immediately goes in to "normal" range. Shouldn't it also say it's still "cold"?
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I've read a few things on the 4R100 and have a question.
My transmission stays in the OD off position until I hit 55 mph no matter the tune I am using and then will up shift to OD. It turns back off once I drop below 30 mph.
I was told when I bought the truck that it was a factory tow package. Is this a thing?
I would like an option to turn it off when I'm not towing or climbing a hill if I can.
Any way to modify it with a switch?
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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Two years ago I acquired a very very nice 2001 F350 DRW crew cab. The person I purchased it from put a Remanufactured 7.3 in it and set the truck up to pull wedge trailers. He put 25K miles on it and put it on Craig's list where I found it. It just turned over 300,000 miles.
One of the changes he made was to install a 70 gallon fuel tank in the frame rails below the bed. He told me that when the gauge reads EMPTY there is still 20 gallons in the tank. I remember him telling me that this anomaly is due to using the stock Ford pickup in the larger tank.
I have never filled the tank because so far the truck is used locally. I usually put 10 to 20 gallons in and when it gets to E I do the same fueling.
Then one day I turned the key on and the needle went up and beyond the full indication.
I can get under it and maybe the tank has some name or model number on it.
The truck runs fine, but the gauge concerns me. Eventually the truck will be making round trips from Chicago to our retirement home in Santa Fe, NM. It would be nice to have a working fuel gauge!
I have spoken to the person I purchased the truck from. He installed the tank as part of a complete upgrade that included a re-manufactured 7.3. The fuel tank is a 67 gallon Titan mounted between the frame rails. He believes that the original Ford sending unit was installed. That means it has 300,000 miles on it. I had the truck on a lift yesterday and it is a very tight fit. The garage said the best way to do the repair is to remove the bed. Six bolts, disconnect the tail lights and the 7 pin trailer connector and it is off.
So, my questions now are... Should I stay with a new Ford sending unit or are there better ones to install? Are there any other updates to the fuel delivery system that should or could be done at the time?
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I have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
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I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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my 2003 f-250 4x4 6.0 engine service light stays on all the time (for about 2 weeks now) it has 33,323 miles on it. it is running fine-no problems yet. no codes are showing up on a diagnostic test. What is going on?
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I recently had my fuel gauge stuck on full and at around the same time, my left rear brake light doesn't work. I do have LED brake lights in the rear so I am not sure if that changes anything. I thinking something with a ground or is it possible that these aren't even related.
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I have a persistent issue with the OD off light flashing on my 2001 7.3L auto 4x4. Scanning it with AE I get the P1832 code. The truck runs and drives just fine. It shifts nice, goes into overdrive, locks up, etc. If it weren't for that blinking light I'd think it was all perfect. I've checked all the connections, replaced the range switch / neutral safety switch, replaced the VSS on the rear axle, checked all light bulbs and fuses. I've checked MOST of the relays in the truck.
I pulled the tranny drain plug and poured out a bit of fluid into a clean pan, it looks and smells good. AE also tells me that it's not communicating with the ABS system (although there's no persistent ABS warning light on the dash), the Airbag, the Overhead Trip Computer, the Parking Aid (which I don't have...), or the Enhanced Powertrain. The temperature on my overhead display is reading -40F which is clearly wrong.
I've looked for a comprehensive wiring diagram for the truck, but can't find one. I'm trying to figure out if there's a connector or module that these various functions go thru that might be the problem. Am I missing a ground somewhere? The frame was just powdercoated......am I not getting a good ground connection? In complete disclosure, I have torn this truck apart and re-assembled it out of several different trucks as outlined in this thread.
[URL]....
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Where I can get the head light to fog light wiring harness..it is almost as hard as finding the holly grail..... 2001 f350 7.3 .......
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Have no OD, when you press the OD button nothing happens and then the OD light flashes until she's shut down. On start up no flashing until OD button pressed. All other gears shift lovely. Haven't checked codes yet.
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My 2001 7.3 in a f350 automatic has this problem. I tried to start in am, no wait to start light comes on, but the od/off on auto transmission handle is blinking on and off. Turn key off and back on, no blinking, instrument cluster lights up as normal but no wait to start light, engine turns over as normal but no start or attempt to start, engine has about 56000. replaced glow plug relay, still nothing.
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