Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - 8 Mpg / Getting 3 - 340 Km Mixed?
Jan 17, 2016
I have owned a 2001 7.3l f250 for almost 2 years now and the fuel mileage stinks!!! It is a CC short box with an auto transmission and 33" tires. I have a garbage edge chip, AFE intake and a 4"exhaust. I always fill up with a 1/4 tank left, and it will usually take 75-80L. The problem is I drive like a granny and I can only get 3-340km mixed driving or 250km in the city. A friend has the identical truck with a 6spd manual and claims he can get 6-700 km.
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I've got a 7.3 tranny that has had ELC Coolant and water mixed in with tranny fluid because of a bad radiator. I drained the fluid from the tranny a week ago and when I pulled off the pan today there is still junk in there. I'm planning on putting in a new filter, gasket and Mercon V but how do I clean the old stuff out of there? Picture.....
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I just bought a 2001 F350 diesel with 120k miles on it a couple weeks ago. Friday I headed out to Oregon with my 16 foot enclosed trailer filled with jet skis (about 4-5k pounds) for a competition. A few minutes after being on the freeway I noticed the truck did not have good power. About 30 min later while climbing a steep grade the truck almost went dead.
I started at 60mph and by the time I got to the top i was at 15mph with the throttle pinned. the motor sounded funny and shook the truck more then normal. After wards on the down side of the grade the truck started to act normal. I took it to my buddies house and switched trucks because I didn't trust if for the 13 hour drive.
Today I talked to a mechanic at the dealership and he said that it sounded like injector o-rings to him. I went home, pulled the valve covers and started the motor to see if anything is leaking. steam was coming from the valve area and the down spouts on the injectors was flowing oil. The thing that looked especially abnormal was one of the injectors looked like fuel was dribbling from it. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I couldn't tell if it was fuel or oil but no other injectors had fluid coming out near the wire connections.
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Thought batteries were bad and replaced batteries truck started and ran. Shut it off and went to restart 30 minutes later and had no power what so ever like no batteries were in it. Put new batteries on charger the were full so hooked batteries back up and it starts. 10 minutes later same as before like there was no batteries in it. 2001 7.3 464,000 miles
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Dad has a 01 one ton with the 7.3 and isn't real tech savvy so I'm posting for him. He is the original owner and has been complaining recently about the lack of power. Particularly the upper end. He is having to downshift way more often and where he used to not have to. And we've both noticed a very noticeable shake at idle. Not a vibration but a true shake. He changes the oil every 5000 on the dot and I've gone and changed the air and fuel filter and ran hose and see foam and royal purple injector cleaner through it with no results. Truck is all stock with 225000 on it.
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I have 01 F550 6spd 4x4. sounds rhythmic, smooth at idle but just over 1200 is a pattern surge but doesn't sound like one cylinder, cel is off, ICP and pigtail changed as it was leaking , no change. From what I've read duty on ICP and IPR should be about same % I've included the codes I've gotten, I have the epc disconnected right now as I thought it was a wastegate issue, checking the ICP plug next,anything I've missed? It had a cyl 8 contribution at idle which I hear is common? Will changing CPS work with that one? Think it's a grey one. There's no water in bowl I replaced filter, since replaced ICP, pigtail, and bleeding fuel bowl and new filter the codes are gone but still misses, will be checking uvch, injector buzz test showed no faults. Old diesel guy said to flood with Stanadyne fuel treat?
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2001 F350 just rebuilt the turbo, did the EBPV delete now no power.
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I would I have a 01 7.3 e350 with 111k miles. I drove the van a couple of days ago.it sat for 2 days and now it wont go past 30mph.the van shakes crazy and went when i hit the petal no power with smoke coming out the tail pipe sometimes. When I shut the van off and restart it to drive it,it sounds better. I changed the fuel filter with motorcraft and changed the oil. Here is the kicker. It ran good after I changed the fuel filter the whole day and now its 4th of july and I went to get some drinks and it happened again.
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I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
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I have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
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2001 7.3 4wd srw ext cab auto 173,000 miles. Truck rides rough at certain speed. Worse at 45 mph. I have replaced tranny mounts,new Michelin tires,replaced aftermarket rims with rims that are correct and balanced.Transmission was rebuilt,works very good, I have receipt. This truck had 2" extenders on the hubs when I bought it,have since removed these,that worked with bounce issues. When I replaced tires I thought I had cured the issue but now after 1000 miles it is back. I am ready to just ride it out until it becomes worse and identifies itself. Tires needed replacing,so did tranny mounts,it is frustrating bouncing along not knowing if it could be an easy fix or not.
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I found a 01 7.3 with 165K miles on it from a guy willing to part with it for 3,000 but it will crank over but wont stay running.
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I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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I have a 2003 f250 with the 5.4 in it. When I bought the truck the odometer and fuel gauge weren't working. So I tried disconnecting the battery and when I hooked it back up the odometer started working again and the fuel gauge went from below empty up to full then just dropped back down to below empty and won't move at all. I haven't tried disconnecting the battery again. And I know more than likely I will have to replace sending unit but trying not to if I don't have to.
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I have a 2001 f350 4x4 edge programmer 330k miles. I bought it not running right and thought it would be a easy fix. I'm fairly knowledgeable with the 7.3. Original symptoms where it would run for 5-10 minutes lose power and quit. No restart until it sat for a few hours. P1211 was code, so I figure it's a high pressure oil problem. The truck has a new icp, Ipr, fuel pump, a receipt from dealer where they replaced 1 injectors o ring. I figure the o rings where bad. I replaced all of them.
1 injector was pretty bad the o ring was kinda tore up and disfigured, and 1 had new o rings. Why they would just replace 1 I'll never know. Well the problem still exists, it starts fine sounds good. It will idle 20-30 minutes then get sluggish if I give it any fuel. It's a lot better than before I can floor it and it will rev up and after a few revs it gets better again. If I unplug the icp the idle will go up and down and almost die. Trying to start warm it will just barely run at 4-500 rpm then quit unless I can get it to rev. Once it revs up it seems ok. Does that sound like a hpop problem or am I even on. The right path?
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My truck occasionally gets a hot no start issue and it's been happening more frequently. Mostly it happens if I drive it up to operating temp turn it off for a short time, then try to start up again. Usually, if I wait 15min to an hour it will start up. It has died on me while driving too, then I have to wait and periodically try it. I've noticed in this situation that if my glow plugs turn on for only a short time, it won't start. But once the motor has cooled enough that the glow plugs stay on for the longer duration, then it will start right up.
I've replaced the CPS, rebuilt the IPR, did the ICP unplug test, rebuilt the injectors, replaced the fuel filter.
HPOP oil level is good, changed the oil maybe 500mi ago. When it's a no start, the low oil pressure gauge does start to read after some cranking, also the tach does read. It throws no DTCs. My reader isn't able to monitor live sensor data.
There is some oil in the valley, but I can't find the source. I think it's probably the turbo pedestal. What else should I check?
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Recently I came across a guy parting out his F-250 with a 7.3 powerstroke. Said it had a blown engine, and didn't know what was wrong, but oil was coming out of the exhaust.
My question here is why that's happening. I don't have any experience with the powerstrokes, so I'd like to know what the culprit is before I even consider buying it.
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I have an 01 F-250 Powerstroke. It has been shaking terribly at around 1500 rpms and shutters while holding the brake and increasing engine speed. I took it to the dealer and they told me that my #1 injector is bad. I decided to check around a little bit. I found a diesel service dealer that has brand new injectors. (Not rebuilts). Anyway I would like to attempt to install this injector myself.
1. Which injector is #1? (I've done a lot of mechanic work but not a whole lot on engines.)
2. What do you do with the fuel and oil that get into the cylinder? Do you have to get it sucked out?
3. Anything else that is crucial? What do you have to torque the injector bolt to?
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