Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Transmission Stuck In Park
Jun 5, 2015
I have 2000 F-250 7.3L when I start it up and push the brake it won't come out of park and when I push the brake the volt meter goes to 8 volts. If I shut it off and try again it is ok. Might take a couple of times of doing this then it's ok for a couple of days then it happens again. I've checked the connection on brake switch and everything looks ok. What to check next?
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I have a 2000 Ford F450 7.3 4x4 dully with a PTO driven winch 108,000 miles. The truck has develop a transmission slip.
I have changed the transmission fluid twice and it drives better but it slips badly. I can drive it up to highway speeds but it has problems getting from 0 to 10 MPH. The transmission runs hotter then normal but nothing major maybe around 205 degrees
Do I need a complete rebuild? This is a beater truck that I use to tow mainly. It is not worth a major investment. I need the PTO gear and 4x4.
I have several 2000 through 2003 7.3 E350 and E450 short school buses. Does the transmission from these has a PTO gear? I am thinking of pulling the transmission from one of them and swapping it.
It looks like the transfer case just bolts to the back of the transmission; I believe that a 2wd van 7.3 transmission will work with the 2000 F450 setup.
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2000 7.3 automatic suddenly went out of gear going about 30 mph wont go back into any gear, linkage checks fine, no slippage before problem, fluid seems normal good level not burnt no metal.
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I was out with the F350, drw, automatic, 7.3, 4 x 4, yesterday about 30 miles from home base. The transmission started pumping fluid out the front like I have never seen before. I am not talking a drip, I am talking a stream, a big one..... almost like pouring coffee from a coffee pot. I noticed it when I was backing into unload and was leaving an oil trail, a quite obvious one.
We took off the tc cover as it was coming off that to find a dry tc and flywheel, but fluid running out off the case. This is the second time this trans left me high and dry in 165k miles. The first time was a stripped tc/ input shaft. We repaired the transmission then but I don't think we replaced much besides being sure no debris went though everything, fixed what was broken. That was about 25,000 miles ago.
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I have a 2000 F250 4x4, it has been sitting in my garage for about 3 weeks. I cranked it up and backed it up about 10'. A few hours later I noticed a lot of transmission fluid on the floor. I remember hearing a hissing sound when I cut it off but didn't think anything about it. The fluid is on passengers side of truck, right side of the engine. Most of fluid is toward the rear but some ran down in front of the axle also. It's up high also, I've got fluid on rear of valve cover. I've cranked it up and let it run but can't get it to leak. Where did all this fluid come from?
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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My 2000 Echo is stuck in park, my question: can my brake lights work but the release shifter stick function not. I am trying to diagnose the cause of the lock up and have heard it is probably the brake light switch, car has now exhibited electrical problem.
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My 2004 F250 super duty crew cab is stuck in park. Every once in a while it will move to drive, but once stopped and in put in park, its stuck. Its an Automatic transmission
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Seems like I have an issue every other week of driving my truck. Today I arrived at work and attempted to shift into park but it wouldn't go. I went to tighten the bolts and after tightening it still wouldn't work. So I tried tightening them again and the top of the top bolt broke off. So I took a nut and a lock washer and put it on the other side (was very hard) and got it tightened best I can. It looks tightened pretty good but I still can't shift into park. Maybe the bushing for that piece are bad? I have no clue where to go from here or what I need or even if putting a nut on the bolt works.
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Won't shift into park, Checked the two bolts and they were tight. Ended up having a rock wedged behind shift lever on the transmission.
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My truck will not always start when in park, Have to switch it to neut sometime, and sometime after putting it in park it won't fully engage, I know the part that I need to replace just don't know the name or the part number for ford....It is the part that adjusts the shift indicator...
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I have noticed that I have to hold my gear selector towards park to get the reverse lights to come on. Also some times I have to hold it towards park to get it to start. I changed my tranny in Dec 2009 and occasionally it would do this while starting, just noticed the reverse lights about a week ago. Tried moving the cable where it attaches to the tranny a couple of serrations each direction. No luck. Is there another place I can make an adjustment?
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My 2000 7.3 2wd is making a knocking sound while accelerating. It speeds up as I accel and when I let off the gas it gets louder. It slows down all the way to a stop when the truck slows to a stop. I can feel it in the floor board a bit as well.
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Well besides the pyro breaking friday BEFORE live tuning,and the exhaust leak I gained on the way to Texas(not inpart of the pyro not working). Now the fuel gauge is stuck on full. It looks good,200+ miles and still on full. Could it be the gauge,or possibly just the sending unit? Maybe a fuse?
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I am attempting to change my fuel filter - have a new Napa unit complete with new lid.
I can not get the old one off (this alone tells me it's been on there too long). The hex is 26mm and all I have is a 26mm box end. It just rounds the corners of the plastic hex off.
As the new filter has a new lid, I am using a steel chisel and hammer (in a CCW direction) at several places on the top flange. I have also smacked the top flange liberally to get it to let go of whatever is holding it.
I'm about to get out my map torch out and warm up the plastic but would rather not produce a flame on something with fuel directly behind it.
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I managed to get the drivers side exhaust manifold and all of its bolts off no problem. On the passenger side I had 1 bolt head that was already broken and I have only 1 other that is still holding on for dear life. I've been soaking it in aerokroil for awhile now and no luck. I tried some PB blaster today because I am willing to try anything. I also tried heating up the bolt with a torch and some map gas but not sure if I am heating it up enough or not. Anyways, everything else has been going great, got the uppipes off and the valley, turbo and pedestal all cleaned up good. Just need to get the last whole bolt and broken bolt out so I can install the new manifolds. What I should try to remove the last 2 bolts. How hot should I get the bolt when trying to remove it? Or should I be heating the engine block?
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The bolt that holds the dipstick on the valve cover. i have tried for ever to get this thing off. soaked it , got a skinny wrench on the nut underneath but think it might be stripped (1/2 inch grinded out a little). going to try and get a set of skinny wrenches tomorrow , mine bent. tried vise grips on top of the bolt and put a box wrench on the nut , and gave it my all. The damn thing won't budge.
Also, any tips on the rest of the valve cover bolts. I had to remove some from inside the fender well but barely got to them. My question is not getting these out but getting them back in. And how the heck to you torque these things??? The bolt i mentioned above is creating problem, and I only have so much time
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Like the title says, I have an '02 F-250 that should have turned over 1,000,000 miles but it froze 1 mile shy of that. It makes it kind of hard to keep track of maintenance when this doesn't work. Trip odometer is useless also.
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I have a 1999 F250 4-wheel drive with a 6-speed tranny. The tranny is several old but has only around 100k on a rebuild. Three times recently it has stuck in 6th gear (overdrive) and I had to get really rough with the stick to get to come out. Afterwards the stick felt "thick" for a while and eventually everything seems to go back to normal. Not for sure but it may have started after pulling a heavy load, around 16k, which is not unusual for the truck. Other than the times it stuck and shortly after, the tranny seems perfect.
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Reverse lights not coming on, and parking sensor stuck at ' OFF ' , have replaced switch to no avail
Any tips out there ?
2005 6.0 Supercab Lariat diesel Auto 4 wd
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I had some starting issues a little bit ago, but got those sorted out- I installed a new ICP a few days ago and haven't had any more issues. We came up to the mountains last night (got down to about 35), and now it won't start this morning after 3 GP cycles. So I tested the GPR, and the always hot post was, well, always hot. I tested the other post with ignition on, and it had nothin.
Luckily I had a new GPR, so I swapped it out and everything tested normal on both posts. Still won't start. I'm getting white smoke so I know there's fuel (plus my pressure gauge is at about 58 psi). What else am I missing? I've also tested all the fuses....
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