Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Sporadic And Random Stalling
Feb 24, 2017
My 2,000 7.3 with 150K miles have been doing good until the last four weeks. It randomly stalled and once would not start when I got back to it after a 30 minutes lunch break. The stalling happened at unpredictable rpm. Sometimes it stalled at near 2000 while I was still in low gear, other time it stalled when I was cruising on street at 30 miles/hr. Twice it stalled while I was at stop light and at idle speed.
The CPS is new. I replaced the fuel filter and it quit stalling for about 100 miles, I was so happy thinking the problem was fixed but then it stalled again.
Each time it stalled it would take about one minute resting before I could successfully start it again. If I tried to start immediately it simply would not start.
Do you think perhaps it is the two filters in the fuel tank being the culprit? I doubt the filters were ever replaced. I looked around and found a Hutch mod where these two filters were removed. An in-line filter was installed on the frame between the tank and the fuel pump. I just cannot understand why Ford engineers place filters inside the tank, which requires either dropping the tank or removing the truck bed in order to change the darn filters.
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
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So the truck has been stalling out and dropping power randomly, symptoms pointed to needing the 50 cent mod, changed the cps for cheap insurance and peace of mind just in case it wasn't the uvch, no dice. So last night I yanked valve covers for the first time here's what I did while I was under there, check my work.
1st I ohmed out injectors thru the 42pin harness according to tuglys sig link. My meter would only go down to a 0.4 when testing the test leads just to each other
DS injector ohms
#2 3.5
#4 3.4
#6 3.6
#8 3.6
PS injector ohms
#1 3.6
#3 3.6
#5 3.5
#7 3.6
DS glow plug ohms
#2 prong to ground 2" away 0.9 ; white connecting wire back to gp relay 0.3
#4 0.9 wire to relay 0.5
#6 infinity ohms up thru highest meter setting, checked multiple times and different ground spots,(replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#8 0.5 wire to relay 0.5
PS glow plug ohms
#1 1.0 ; white wire back to relay 0.6
#3 infinity multiple tests as well (replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#5 0.9 wire to relay 0.6
#7 1.0 wire to relay 0.7
Next up, ebp sensor was reading 1.9 higher than map/baro koeo, gently cleaning sensor earlier didn't work. Installed new motorcraft, will check it with Torque pro koeo once the batteries are reconnected
Next I checked the uvch connections which felt good, darn it, maybe a smidge of movement from the DS, but nothing halfway disconnected or anything. Hmm. I ground down the quarters to the top of his head and installed.
Next I torqued down the 4 bolts per cylinder of the rocker arms at 20 ft/lbs, all were perfect and snug
Next up, injector torque. I've read on here below 50, or 80 in/lbs depending on different threads and opinions that I would need to replace o-rings.
So I set the in/lb click torque wrench at 50 in/# and tested the wrench's click on the higher torqued rocker bolts, then checked all the injectors, all were good
Reset for 80in/lbs, tested, then hit all injectors, #6 almost budged but clicked immediately before the handle moved
Reset for 100 in/lb, tested on larger bolt, 2 injectors took a 1/8 turn;
Reset for official spec of 120 in/lb , tested wrench, all injectors took 1/3 to 1 full turn
Reset for 130 in/lb (above official spec, but highly recommended on here by those way more knowledgeable than me on our engines) tested on a larger bolt, slowly and carefully gave all injectors almost an extra 1/2 turn to click; whew, finally a relaxed sphincter.
At this point I knew I needed to buy 2 glow plugs today, replace, then I'll check all glow plug torque at 14 ft/lb in one go, so I got everything ready for a hot torque after I do glow plugs tonight ("unloaded" the torque wrenches) and finally installed the RiffRaff AIH delete plug. My cell phone's alarm went off to get the kids ready for school, so hit the snooze and got everything put up. Now for a nap, then buy 2 Motorcraft GP and check back on here before going back at it tonight.
I also checked the turbo for play in all directions, was nicely solid and spun smooth, no wheel damage. Up pipes and well basically everything exhaust under hood had zero signs of soot/leaks with inspection mirror.
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My "01 6 speed has started stalling after spooling down. Example, coming down a grade in a lower gear and then push the clutch in it will die. Where do I need to look? I've recently done injector o rings and normal service. No change at all. No other issues except a very touchy throttle. It's pretty disturbing to be pulling a heavy load, have to get in the brakes hard, push the clutch in and the engine dies. Not a good day.
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This just started happening last week. When I put the truck into reverse, the engine lugs down and dies. It' as if the AT is fully engaging reverse gear with no clutching action. If give the truck a bit of pedal, I can put her in reverse and back up without issue. Going forward into Drive has no issues.
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Early 99 7.3 manual 6 speed. 224,000 miles. Truck starts great and runs great at idle. Starts out in gear just fine and seems to have plenty of power. It will act just like the key is turned off about a mile down the road. Will restart after extended cranking or letting it sit for 15 minutes or so. P1249, P0340, and P1280 codes pop up. Had a professional shop work on it and they changed out the CPS and IPC with factory parts. When i picked it up it had an SES light on but was running fairly well. When I looked under the hood the IPC had been cracked on the plastic part. Replaced it with another new one and it ran fine for 3 days, even pulling loaded hay trailer. Now when driving it, it cuts out for a second or two. It does that every couple miles until it stalls out completely. Restarts after 15 minutes and runs fine. Same codes are showing up.
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I've had this 01 7.3 for a few months now. When I first purchased I dropped new battery's, couple glow plugs, and wire harness going to the Pass side valve cover. it has 150k on it and an Edge tunner.
My first problem was about 2 weeks ago, it was raining and i was making a turn at about 5mph And all power shut off. I put it into park cranked 3times started up and the tuner stayed off for about 3minutes. I ran to auto zone and picked up a cps (I've recently found that oem is the only way to go?)
I made a trip about 2hrs locked the CC in about 70mph and the boost was going well over 12psi. this seems crazy because i usually dont get it over 4psi. I drive it with a light foot. on my way home i was pulling a trailer about 8000lbs load driving about 5mph out of the lot it shut off again. Started right back up and made the trip home fine. With the exception of the erratic boost.
Yesterday it shut off at about 40mph and turned back on its own. I am not throwing out a lot smoke doesn't have problems starting, I did a once over on the wire harness's and nothings jumping out to me.
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My 2000 F350 7.3 has been stalling out with the water in fuel sensor for the last to tanks of fuel. I thought I needed to buy a new Titan fuel tank, I pulled the tank and was surprised to see that my tank was not a metal tank, It's polyethylene, I bought the truck in California with 60,000 miles it has 180,000 miles now. It was sold new in Canada, I expected the tank to be metal with the the liner coming off.
The two fuel filters in the tank are just about plugged solid I'll be removing them and repiping the return line. When I repipe the return line do I put the duck bill on the end or just leave it open? Also I searched the web for hours looking for a stock size polyethylene tank with no luck. On the bottom of the tank I found The ford part #s. I'm going to siphon the fuel out of the tank today. and reinstall....
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A couple weeks ago my 01 7.3 with 265,xxx started ideling rough and stalling. I had driven in all day Sunday and the next day it started out of the blue! It would barely start idle rough and stall out no CEL. I have singed changed the icp, fuel filter and I have checked oil level. Also used fuel cleaner. Still had no luck. When I changed the icp sensor the check engine light came on and was no change I then got a ford oem camshaft sensor and my truck fired right up but still sounded like it had a little miss here and there drove it for a few weeks fine now back to the same thing it will start up and idle fine for 10 seconds then start the rough idle but won't stall out anymore just idle rough. I am stumped I can't get any codes to pull up and if oriellys uses there scan tool while the truck was running it would shut the truck off! I can't find any answers.
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My speedometer was intermittent for a while, stalling, then moving, but never above the actual speed. Now I turn it on, but as soon as I move, it travels up to 38mph then stays there until I turn off the engine, then it hangs for 4/5 seconds, then drops to zero.
I replaced the VSS in the rear diff, and the one on the tranny. I checked all fuses. There are no other dummy lights or indications. Bad ground? I'm hoping I don't need a new gauge cluster.
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2001 f350. 7.3 has 350k on the engine. Last week it cut out and stalled it was about 15 degrees and though.. fuel had jeld... it warmed up.. didn't happen again. Then two night ago.. happened 4 times in a row then it was fine. yesterday a dozen times at least. It stalls but restarts itself (roll starting i guess) the water in fuel ,CEL and wait to start lights come on and then go off. We started with fuel filter, have changed the cam position sensor (yes with ford part not part stores) and now have also changed the Injection pressure sensor (also with ford part) while it needed changed as it was leaking oil the truck is Still stalling.
My dad is a technician He hooked his computer to the truck.. nothing. He was able to get the truck to recreate the problem with the scanner hooked up. When it stalls if he holds the throttle down the truck stays at an idle and the CEL, wait to start and water in fuel lights are on. It decelerates and puts along as nice as you please with the fuel peddle to the floor! let off the accelerator, lights go off and it recognizes the throttle again. No codes at all. hes thinking its the pcm telling the icp to shut off fuel. What would cause it to do that?
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I have a 1999 f450 7.3 diesel that surges and will stall but will start right back up again and drive. It does this over and over but all ways gets back to the shop. The engine starts good when cold so glow plugs are working correctly. What I have done:
Fuel filter change, check electric fuel pump but have not replaced it. I have replace camshaft sensor.
What I have found d by inspection:
Throttle pedal has 2 electrical connections one for the IVS and one for the TPS. I have experience on the 7.3 IDI diesels but very little on the newer injection system.
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Truck has been driving great for a long time and this afternoon after driving fine to work just died 3-4 times while trying to accelerate from idle. Engine restarts easily but the power is soft off idle, the injectors sound noisier and then quiet down and will accelerate decently once rolling but something is off I can tell.
Fuel pressure is read post filter and is good. Truck is well maintained with all the basics replaced in the last couple years. Could this be CPS going out even if it is only a couple years old? IPR is new in the last year, ICP sensor isn't leaking. Most recent change was a full tank of fuel yesterday afternoon and on a whim performing a boost leak check which was all good.
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I have an issue with my 1999 Ford F350 7.3L diesel and stalling when the accelerator pedal is pressed and released.
Background: Initially the truck would not start, and from there here are all the things that I found wrong and replaced. (keep in mind that I troubleshot all the issues and every part that was replaced was proven faulty)... Starting with the glow plugs, all but 3 were faulty and not making a connection to ground. (only one broke off in the head, but I was able to get it out with out getting anything in the cyl)..
Valve cover gasket and harnesses, this is to include replacing the connectors on the engine harness cause both sides of the connectors were broken. The ICP was leaking into the connector and breaking the connection to the PCM, so the connector was cleaned and the sensor replaced. No issues from that now.
The IPR was replaced cause the oil pressure was erratic and not stable when I had my pressure gauge hooked up testing the pressure. After that was replaced the pressure was ok, and it climbed with RPM's and fell back down like it was suppose to. I could not get the PSI up to 3000 PSI even at full RPM's, but it did not drop past 600 psi.
The fuel tank was recently replaced, and all the fuel was removed and "fresh/good" fuel was put in. The fuel bowl was cleaned out and the filter replaced. (the fuel bowl did have a lot of crap in it like rust and dirt). Fuel pressure was at 95 PSI last time I checked, which is higher than the recommended 60 to 65 PSI.
That being said the engine did start and run, but was very rough and missing. So I did all the injector o-rings. Some o-rings were starting to split, and others were not sealing like the copper washer on the injector tip. I could tell by the amount of crap in the end of the injector. ( not the tip, but where the injector contacts the injector cup. There must have been water in there or something cause that part had all kinds of crap around it)
The engine smoothed out after a couple day of running it, but it would still stall when it was cold. The block heater was replaced cause it was falling out. The oil was changed and the filter too. The CMP sensor was changed just because I know they will cause the engine not to start. I had a "known good" truck that I can swap part to and from, and I did a lot of that thus far.
Swapped the IDM, PCM, EBP sensor, MAP sensor, all relays inside the engine and in the cab. I was looking for the barometric pressure sensor, but from what I have read thus far that is a calculation in the PCM between the MAP and the EBP sensors. The diode to the PCM is good,I checked the harness for rubbing by the 42 pin connector and by the LF fender but I did not find any chaffing or rubbing on any wires. The ECPR was wired together, so I fixed it so that it is no longer that way, and the waste gate for the turbo was wired open. I took the wire off and made sure the linkage worked and it did move. I tried to lube up the valve in the turbo for back pressure, but I'm not sure if it worked or not.
I also swapped out the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure temp sensor on the HPOP Reservoir, and blew out the EBP sensors tube. (air went straight through the tube with no restrictions.) I did a buzz test and all the coils checked out ok. I also did a contribution test and only three cylinders were identified as having some kind of issue. (but this is not enough to cause the engine to stall..) The only current codes that I have are the air intake heater, and the EF feedback not detected. Neither of which would cause the engine to stall in my opinion.
Symptoms:
When cold: The engine will start and idle just fine, but when the accelerator is pressed and held to 1000 RPM's the engine will sputter like its missing and surge up and down between 500 and 1100 RPM's. If the accelerator pedal is pressed quickly the engine speed to increase then fall down and stall. It seems as if the PCM is shutting down and starting back up. ( Like the key is turned off and then back on quickly, but the engine doesn't recover)
When warming: This issue becomes more erratic, but when hot the engine is fine. No issues, and it will drive all day long with no hesitation.
The truck has over 200K on it, but I know it will go more! It is a mannuel tranny, and is a 4X4, and I love it, I can't get ride of it just yet.
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Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
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E99 Romps on start up and randomly dying. Bought this truck about 3 weeks ago. Previous owner mentioned he had issues with it getting hot and shutting off and not starting. Has new IPR, ICP and pigtail, I just put in a new fuel filter. Has 206k miles on it and is the 4R100.
The past two days after sitting all night I have been cycling the key twice and it hasn't done its romp. Typically when it does I can tap the pedal once and it goes away. This I could deal with but its started to die randomly while driving, never while cruising down the road. Its either just after starting it and rolling slowly or slowing down for a stop or to turn. When it dies, I can put it in neutral and it fires back up no problem. SES light usually comes on for about 10-15 seconds after but goes away.
Replaced the grey CPS that was in it with a dark grey one from RiffRaff Diesel. Got a Edge CTS2 to figure out the problem, the codes Im getting are P1280 and P1247.
The ICP pigtail they replaced they spliced on with butt connectors. I plan on pulling it to check for oil and make sure it does look new and redo the connections with solder then shrink wrap them.
I was told to check the IPR% under full throttle which I did and it never went higher than 36.7
The truck did start running rough around 45-50 mph and I did get a video of the ICP jumping around while cruising down the road.
Then I went through a drive through and the truck kind of hiccuped like it wanted to stall and the ICP went right to 725 PSI and idled up and stayed there until I started to leave.
Truck is pretty much stock, K&N air intake and muffler cut out and straight piped.
Here is a link to the videos I got :
e99 7.3 ICP fluctuation while driving - YouTube
e99 ICP steady at 725 PSI after acting like it wanted to stall. - YouTube
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I have a 2000 Excursion with the 7.3L. We bought it in February of last year with 81,000 miles on it, and it has 111,000 miles on it now.
First problem:
It threw a code today: P0683 indicating a communication issue between the Glow Plug Control Module and PCM Communication Circuit. Other than the code, the truck isn't doing anything out of the ordinary today. Drove it about 40 miles, up to 80 MPH, problem three below did show it's head once, but other than that it ran great.
Second problem:
Ever since we've owned the vehicle it has done a strange surging/near-stalling thing (for lack of a better word) when it's started up. It only does it occasionally, and the problem seems to appear, and then go away for several weeks or months only to reappear. Here's how it goes:
- Start truck
- After starting the truck immediately begins to surge (rev?) and then nearly stall.
- It will do this over and over, about one surge/near-stall cycle per second, until I tap the accelerator, at which point it stops immediately. So far it has never stopped on it's own, but has always stopped with a tap of the accelerator.
Up until recently I chalked this up to "huh, that's weird" since the truck has otherwise run fine.
Third Problem:
Every once in a while the truck will hiccup while it's up to speed. It only seems to do it at highway speeds, typically between 55-70, and the hiccup typically only occurs once.
The first time I distinctly remember it happening was right after I had replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor (approximately 5-6 weeks ago).
While digging around online I found one other guy say his truck started doing the same thing after replacing the CMP in his F250 with the same little plastic gray one I used. So that problem might be caused by that part.
My Thoughts:
It seems like the run-away favorite for fixing problem one is to replace the GPCM. I've dug through a couple hours of forums this afternoon/evening, and it looks to me like the GPCM is the culprit the vast majority of the time when code P0683 comes up.
I'm thinking problem 2 might be an ICP issue. I can't find any previous forums anywhere that describe the exact issue I'm having - or really anything very close. Maybe it's out there, but I couldn't find it. So I'm really grasping at straws.
Problem 3 could either be related to the ICP (if problem 2 is an ICP problem) or it could be due to the new CMP I installed (the cheap gray plastic one from Autozone). It's possible the hiccup has been around longer than I think. Half the time when it happens (or does it?) I can't decide if it was a hiccup or a bump on the road I didn't see. I am sure it's happening at times, but there are other times I'm not sure if it was a hiccup or a bump I just didn't see. So I think it's possible it's been going on longer than I realize, and I noticed it that first time because I had JUST been under the hood and pretty finely attuned to how the truck was running as a result.
I'm about to hitch my 35' camper to this truck and haul it a few hours and I'm not feeling real confident right now. Problem 1 hit today, problem 2 is more prevalent than every right now, and problem 3 has been hiccupping for 5 or 6 weeks. I'd like to get at least problems 1 and 3 sorted out before hauling 8,000 lbs if possible.
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00' 7.3 is acting a little strange lately. i was towing a 15 foot trailer the other day for about 250 miles that wasn't all that heavy and my foot felt like it was very close to the floor. I had it to the floor and the truck would only go 60. now even without that trailer its better but still i feel as if i have to really put my foot down into it to speed up. if i go all the way to the floor in o/d it'll downshift and start speeding up but very very slowly then i run out of pedal and am at the floor, a lot slower than before. Before i wouldn't get to the floor and id already be moving pretty good. but now i gotta keep it pretty much 3/4 way down and keep it there to get up to speed and stay there. truck has 253k no tuner or programmer just 6637 intake and an exhaust, ww2. leveled on 35's. the tranny isn't slipping or at least doesn't seem to be. She doesn't shift perfect but its not anything crazy bad for stock with 253k on it. maybe something wrong with the actual pedal? or hopefully not but maybe the trans or motor , or maybe a sensor or something?
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I purchased a 2000 excursion with the 7.3 a couple of weeks ago. The guy said originally in the add that it need #2 and #8 injectors replaced. When I went and looked at it he had already replaced them and said the it still has no power and needed the remaining 6 replaced. I purchased it as it was a good deal thinking I should be able to get it fixed for worst case a set of injectors. BTW the engine has little to no blowby and starts easy and idles great.
The problem it it will not build any boost (has external boost gauge). Actually the gauge only shows vacuum. With the truck in park or neutral you can slowly rev the motor to 2500rpm and all seems fine but as soon as you break past 2500rpm it sound like it is missing and starts blowing white smoke. The smoke smells like when a diesel heater runs out of diesel. If you try and drive it it has NO power and will not move out of its own way and will eventually start like it is missing and blowing white smoke.
The previous owner replaced the following:
#2 injector
#8 injector
UVC gaskets
MAP Sensor
Wastegate solenoid sensor
The first thing I did was start looking at the no boost issue and pulled the turbo. I deleted the EBPV while i was there. Also the turbine wheel was in very bad shape so i replaced the turbine wheel, shaft, seals, bushings and installed a new compressor wheel 5+5 wheel off ebay. Reinstalled turbo and the symptoms are the same. I also replaced the clamps on the spider with Tbolt clamps instead of the worm gear styles and it psi tested all piping and intercooler to 30psi with no leaks. Also the up pipes have already been replaced with the bellowed style so there are no leaks and it has a 4" straight exhaust.
I have since ordered oring kits for the injectors and also ordered the fittings for the fuel bowl so i can check fuel pressure. it has a new air filter, oil filter, oil and fuel filter installed.
The ICP sensor has oil in the plug but if i unplug it the symptoms are still there.
I have also used a scanner and the ICP pressure is approx 500psi at idle and the duty cycle is about 11% at idle. Also the HPOP looks to be new as it is very clean compared to the surrounding parts and i have checked the HPOP reservoir and it is full to withing 1/2" from the threads.
2000 Excursion
7.3
205000 miles
I am assuming that the injectors are original other than #2 and #8.
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I have a F350 that has intermittent power loss.
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Iam looking at a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke that has some problems first it is hard to start cranks like it has a dead cyl. Second after starting it has no power not even enough to move. At first it would only run if held wide open but once it warmed up it would idle and rev and move but barely still had a miss. The weird thing is it did not smoke blue-black or white also no strong smell of diesel and no smell of oil at all. The truck has 230ish miles and there are no maintenance records.air filter was new.
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