Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Smoking Brakes / Puff Of Smoke At The Front
May 14, 2015
Picked up my 5th wheel this afternoon from being raised 3". Dropped over the 10 percent grade down the hill to normal driving. Had the trailer brake controller to boost #2 (Prodigy controller). Had to brake pretty continuously, (tried to stay off it a bit, but is is about 10 grade for about 3/4 mile. Put the auto trans in D2 to get brakes come to the red light at the bottom. Noticed a puff of smoke at the front. Driver side, didn't notice passenger side.
New pads and new slotted rotors new maybe 1,500 miles ago. Not liking that action, but need thoughts. Want to put a thousand or 2 miles towing this summer and accompanying mountainous terrain and back.
2000 F350 Lariat Super Duty 7.3 4x4 NOT a dually.
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My beloved excursion is 300 miles away from me in a no start condition. Vehicle has 270K miles. Very well cared for. No issues to date since purchase 5 years ago. Went to back up and the vehicle starting Caming like it had a big cam in it. went from reverse to drive and problem went away. Drove vehicle for 2 more weeks without issue. Then all of a sudden it dies. Restart driver on down the road 1/4 mile, dies again. Restart, make 45 mile drive home vehicle is low on power will hardly pull a grade but I got to my friends house. Went to start vehicle next day and no start. Puff white smoke while trying to start. It hits every once in awhile but wont run.
The vehicle is throwing NO CODES other than an open glow plug on 1&8 which it has for sometime now. I have changed, fuel filter, fuel pump, CPS(genuine ford), IPR and IPS. No real changes still wont start. I disconnected the IPS and it started but it sounded like it was only running on a couple of cylinders. It would not accept throttle. The local Forddealer does not have a Ford diesel tech. Ive called a couple of diesel shops and I hear could be a bad HPOP, or bad ECM or a bad IDM but without seeing it. I am at my wits end with this thing. I am an electronic engineer by background. So I have a good sense of the process. I have checked all fuses, relays, etc. I will say I did have one issue with it a year ago where the UVC problem popped up but the dealer fixed it and it has been fine ever since.
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I have a 03 6.0. I just had all the injectors changed a new fuel pump, spring in the regulator and fuel filters ouch. The truck runs great but I get a puff of black smoke if I get on the throttle going down the road it seem to clear up as soon as the turbo spools up. I that ok or do I need to take it back to the dealer?
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I have a 2000 7.3L f250 superduty. after rebuild and a yr now have engine smokes when you rev the engine and an imbalance on No1 cylinder causing injector to carbon up poss from prev misfires due to injector harness now solved? Found the turbo exhaust outlet pipe leaking oil we think because the wrong size clamp fitted. will fit new clamp tomorrow but if this does not solve problem what next? This has now cost thousands and still having problems...
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I have a 07 camry 4 cylinder with about 80k miles on it. Now on cold starts i started to notice that it will have a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust then it will go away right away and when i drive it there is no smoke and the car drives fine.
I did some research and Im thinking that it is the valve seals. Now my question has tried to sea foam it and then run thicker oil to see it it will stop the smoking? or will i just have to replace the valve seals?
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my 2000 f350 7.3 is acting strange lately. Its got 252k and is all stock other than exhaust,intake,ww2. It smokes white every random once in a while for some reason. At start up it wont though. If i get on it every once in a while it will smoke white then go to back to black. Im not consuming coolant, and the oil looks fine, no residue on the oil cap and its not puffing out the oil cap either. Other than that its running great just dont know why it goes white every so often.
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I didn't notice anything until I was towing yesterday and tried to pass a car to get onto the offramp.
Anyway, I went to floor it so I could get around and, in my mirror, I could see a decent bit of grey smoke coming out. What could it be?
It doesn't smoke at all on startup and runs smooth right away.
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2000 F350 with 340000 on it, have had it for the last 140000. It's an old service truck from south west gas with one owner in between them and me and he put about 5000 on it. I have the big cylinder open air filter, billet compressor wheel, 4" exhaust all the way and an Edge tuner. Don't have any codes I can pull with the tuner. Have been good to me so fare only need regular maintenance, but always had smoke out oil filler with a little pulse.
2500 ago I changed oil and add 1/4 of Lucas oil. 3 days ago when I started in the morning it smoked white smoke out the exhaust as a steam train and idle rough, but cleared up as I went down the street and will do so every time I start cold or warm. Ok, might need new GP, did that yesterday yet the same. Now I start checking stuff and have smoke out the oil filler as a steam train so the cap won't stay.
I know it sound like alot of problems, just try to verify some of them. The smoke out oil filler is blow by? The smoke on start up is that related to bad injectors? Can a bad injector dumping fuel create the blow by? Coolant level ok Transmission fluid level ok Engine oil Rotella T6 added 3 quarter in 2500 miles. I do not have a scanner or any other advance test tools.
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I have my 2002 Ford F450 7.3 diesel in the shop right now. Early story is it is leaking in the turbo or there is a problem with the turbo. Last summer I took the truck cross country and 500 miles from home I was gunning it to get on the highway and it started acting up (poor excelleration). And it started smoking and leaking oil. I crippled it home at lower speeds. Now that it's in the shop they told me about the turbo but have to keep it till tomorrow for a closer look. My question is what else should I consider since they have it in. I mean should they replace the turbo while their at it or any other parts that make sense since they are already into it?
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I was driving on a short business trip and I noticed what I thought at first was clutch smell, and then I realized I had a brake overheating. I pulled over and the front right rotor and hub were very hot. The caliber not so much. I let it cool while I was at the meeting. About 1 1/2 hours later I jacked the truck up to see if the bearings felt bad. Seemed fine so I drove home trying not to use the brakes and the heat did not return. I replace the caliber with one from Ford, but the only lines I could find were from CARQUEST and they are made by Raybestos. I am assuming that these lines are made in China.
I have been looking for some braided SS lines, but can't find any for a 2 wheel drive dually with 4 wheel ABS. Where I can order some better lines???
I hated my old 1994 F-350 that had those Metal/rubber pins, they would mess up and overheat also, I thought that my 2000 would not have this problem, I was wrong.
FYI, about a month ago I replaced the rear pads, and changed all the brake fluid with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3. I installed Akebono pads on the rear and just today Akebono on the problem front side. Will change out line and pads on driver side later this week. I hope I got if fixed.
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Ok I'm working on a 2000 7.3 on a F550 truck was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start it turns over and were getting black smoke from the tail pipe. What is going on with it?
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Recently I have had many problems with my 2000 7.3l .... The one I cant get rid of is the p1316 code. I have changed out the uvc harness and gasket with new ones, then removed valve cover's to double check connections again and they are fine. I am getting white smoke and the truck misses. I do not have a advanced reader for the codes just using my edge programmer. I have also disconnected the battery and cleared the code but it comes right back.
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I got a deal on a1997 f450 7.3 what does it take to swap to 2001 f250 7.3.mine has a bad cylinder with smoking nd low compression.
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I have a 02 power stroke 7.3, driving down the road the other day is started smoking a grayish white smoke pretty good. i let off the throttle and it had a real loud knock along with the smoke. oil pressure was good. i stuck it in neutral and revved it up kept smoking but the knock would go away at higher rpm. then all at once it would stop and run fine. then today it started doing it and wont stop now at all.
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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Just picked up a 99 F250 7.3 Stroker, it had sat for two years in a warehouse, the truck had just had reman injectors put in right before it was parked. We fired it up, and it was missing, and smoking a lot (light blue, almost white) I checked the oil filler cap, and no water on it, after it ran for a while, it stopped. Shut it down, went and got my trailer ready to load the truck, fired it up, and no smoke to speak of, by the time I got it to my trailer, still no smoke.
I revved it against the governor a few times, hoping to clear the miss (figured may have been trash, or a sticky injector from sitting so long) It is turned up pretty good, as it came with a Superchip Super Tuner. It seems to hit on all eight above 2500 RPM or so. Brought it home, and took it out on the road, it seems to only miss under 2500 RPM or so. I took of from a dead stop, then got on it hard at about 15 to 20 MPH, it took of nice, then all of a sudden, the tach started climbing like the trans was slipping, looked in the mirror, and the tires were smoking, guess they broke loose when the boost came in!
I let it idle and warm up for a good half hour and noticed a lot of pure white smoke coming from the exhaust, went back to it and it was steam, I took the oil filler cap off, and there was a lot of steam coming out of there, pulled the dipstick, more steam, I then noticed the degas bottle was low, I topped it off, and got in the truck, and revved it a few times, then held it at 2500 RPM for about a minute, It started blowing water out from under the degas bottle cap. I called the guy I got it from, and he did NOT put new injector sleeves in when he did the injectors, I don't see any oil in the water, but there is water getting on the oil filler cap now! Does it sound like a head gasket, or an injector sleeve?
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Well my problem went from bad to worse. My 05 started running rough at idle, then smoothed out a bit but started smoking on acceleration a little. At this point it felt like it had more power than ever before and even ran smoother running up to 3k RPM before shifting (manual transmission). But now it's smoking so bad, I can't really drive it. It's smoking white or gray at idle but blowing black smoke on acceleration. I had a cylinder 5 contribution code but with the amount of smoke it's hard to believe only one injector is a problem. I pulled the EGR valve and it doesn't look stuck open but I'm going to replace it anyway.
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I was out with the F350, drw, automatic, 7.3, 4 x 4, yesterday about 30 miles from home base. The transmission started pumping fluid out the front like I have never seen before. I am not talking a drip, I am talking a stream, a big one..... almost like pouring coffee from a coffee pot. I noticed it when I was backing into unload and was leaving an oil trail, a quite obvious one.
We took off the tc cover as it was coming off that to find a dry tc and flywheel, but fluid running out off the case. This is the second time this trans left me high and dry in 165k miles. The first time was a stripped tc/ input shaft. We repaired the transmission then but I don't think we replaced much besides being sure no debris went though everything, fixed what was broken. That was about 25,000 miles ago.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Camry that I recently took to the shop because my check engine light was on and it was blowing out a puff of white smoke when the car first starts. I was told it was an EGR problem and this is what I had fixed:
"Upon client approval, remove and replace defective EGR Bypass Vacuum Valve with new (OE) EGR Bypass Vacuum Valve. Test drive vehicle following service to confirm proper operation. Warranty on parts and labor is 2 years or 20,000 miles (whichever comes first). Warranty valid at FIXCARNOW locations only. "
The problem is my car is still blowing out smoke, the check engine light is off, but it is having the same problems it did before. My concern is that either they didn't properly diagnose the problem,even though they ran a full diagnostic on the car, or just didn't fix it.
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I have a 00 dodge caravan. Has always been a good van. Recently when I start it up first thing in the morning there is a puff of blue smoke come out of the exhaust. This will not show up again if you start the van up wth in an hour or so. If you leave it for 3 or more hours you will get a puff of blue smoke but not as much as the one after it has sat all night. What this might be????
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Short version is that I just did the EBPV delete with new pedestal and turbo exhaust outlet and put a new turbo middle cartridge in as mine had blown a seal and possibly broken the shaft. Once I got it all put together, I took it for a test drive and it was building 20PSI like it used to but I didn't have the accumulator and turbo mated up fully so I had a leak there.
I corrected that and now don't get any boost until I get to about 2500RPM and then it only builds to about 10PSI. I've double and triple checked all my connections, boots, etc. and everything is tight on the intake, intercooler, up-pipes and collector, exhaust and the spider, I can't see or feel any problems there. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and it might be a little better but not even close to normal.
Tried disconnecting the red line from the wastegate and plugging it with no difference. I'm stuck, and frustrated. I do have AE, watching the MGP looks like the MAP sensor is working. I feel like I'm overlooking something simple but I just can't figure out what it is...
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