Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Oil Leaking From Motor?
Apr 24, 2016
I have a 2000 f250 super duty extended cab with the 7.3 diesel and auto tranny which the tranny was rebuilt by Samco about 7 years ago and I have 337,000 miles on engine I had a oil leak from I believe my oil cooler which I fixed, but I am still losing oil, about a gallon or more every other day and in that time frame I am only driving maybe 30 miles. I have no drips, and I seriously don't believe it's burning because the truck is not smoking even when you rev the motor up. the bottom of the rear of motor is coated with oil plus as is part of tranny and some front of motor bottom. What to look for?
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The night temperture was only about 37 degrees. But every morning my 2000 F-350 7.3 crew cab 188,000 on it would not start. The first try there would be a split second where the motor would fire, but that would be it. I had to plug the engine block heater into my generator for at least an hour before it would start. I don't see how all the glow plugs could be bad at once??
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20 degrees out this morning truck not plugged in, didn't want to start had to cycle 4-5 times, each time waiting for glow plug Light to go out.
Finally cranked didn't sound pretty but cranked. Once it started idling on its own got out and seen a puddle of oil under the front of the engine drivers side center kind of.
Got up on the truck and shined a light in the valley and seen a puddle in intake valley. Heres my question? Where did this oil come from? Once it warmed up it quit and oil kinda disappeared from valley???
I had turbo off a few months ago because I thought I had a bearing down in it, but found some bolts lose. When I put turbo back on I broke the wire plug on front of the pedestal so I just left it unplugged. Very hard to cold start now that that is unhooked.
Did leaving this unhooked create a hard cold start? Should I put another pedestal on it with the plug or install one without it? Also will it hurt to leave plugged in overnight?
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00 F250 338k auto
No error codes or warning lights (Forscan verified)
No smoke out of the exhaust
No oil or coolant leaks
Have banging noise from the motor. When cold truck sounds normal, quiet. When it warms up, the banging becomes audible. You can hear it at idle. You can hear it under acceleration. Frequency increases with RPM
When at speed, and letting off the throttle, noise goes away.....comes back when back on the throttle. Any time during driving when I let off, engine quiets down to normal. To me it sounds like exhaust leak, bur not sure how to check for those?
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I have an Excursion with 220k miles. I've owned the truck for 6+ years and had very few problems. I change my own oil and fuel filters, but beyond that I know next to nothing about the diesel motor. I do run a DP Tuner with the standard 80 hp program. And a 4" exhaust. Everything else is stock. I do keep it plugged it for the oil heater and the battery tender just about all the time now.
This latest issue started yesterday morning when my wife jumped in a cool truck to take the kids to the dentist (not warmed up but still 55 degrees ambient). A few miles down the road (35 mph max) the motor began stumbling and rocking and black smoke coming from the exhaust with reduced power. She pulled off and kept it running (very rough and rocking) and put it in park for a minute. When she put back in drive, it shifted heavily but the power was normal so she went on her way without any problems. The only report I got sounded like the motor was just cold and rough, so I thought nothing more of it.
Yesterday evening we drove it about 70 miles on the highway (72 mph max) with no issue at all, but when we continued on surface streets toward our destination (50 mph max) it did the same thing, but would not settle back down. I kid you not that it went through gallons of fuel the last 12 miles or so, just dumping black smoke out the exhaust. It felt to me like we were running 1/2 the motor, like the plugs weren't lit. Very rough and rocking and very little power (comparatively, at least). I had to switch to manually shifting the trans to get going and the shifts were much rougher than usual. Idle was low and rough but it never stalled. Behind me there was a huge smoke screen this entire time.
We made it to our destination and parked it. Did our thing and after 5 hours went out with finger crossed. Started right up and ran perfectly the entire 91 miles home. No motor or trans issues at all. Currently running 10/40 synthetic oil that I just changed about 2000 miles ago. Oil level is perfect. 3/4 tank of fuel with standard level of Diesel Kleen added. Fuel filter is less than 10k miles old. Temps yesterday were 65-70 on the drive down and 50-55 on the way back.
I jiggled all sorts of connectors this morning and didn't find anything loose.
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So I was in the process of doing a turbo swap to the borg warner sxe366 and the freeze plug that plugs the old mechanical fuel pump in the valley had to be removed well needless to say, it as well as the safety bolt I had attached to it fell into the motor, seperatly. I'm already getting the motor ready to be pulled but what are the odds that they made it to the oil pan or if they didn't any way to make them fall out?
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I have a 2000 F350 with a 7.3 I have just set a brand new motor in this truck with everything in it new including the transmission injectors are 175/146 from Thoroughbred Diesel. The engine is Bored 40 over studded heads return regulator system as well as a pre pump filter and a javelin and Hutch mod on the tank. When we went to start this new motor the motor turned over and sounded like it was going to fire off pretty quick but instead I'm just getting white smoke and lots of it.
I failed to mention that the injectors are single shot vs. Split shot and then I did have the programmer Tuned to these injectors through thoroughbred there is no fuel in the oil no water in the oil no oil in the water everything seems to be good all the pressures seem to be good and at this point I am lost no one that I have found in the area, where to begin. Seems to me that this is a loading up issue and it seems to me that the only thing that could be causing this would be programming but I don't know.
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I don't know if its a coincidence but it rained hard all weekend and went to work this morning to find out the blower motor only on 4(high). I checked the plug going into blower motor and it looks dry and clean. is there a common occurrence with this? What to look for?
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I have. 2001 excursion with a 7.3l deisel. 167100 miles
It runs great but if it sets over night when the motor is cold it will not start.
You have to plug the block heater in for about an hour or more for it to start.
To me it seems like glow plugs are not working? It had new glow plugs out in from the po.
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For the past few months my bower motor will stop working. It could stop while I'm driving. Or not work when i start the truck, then start working while I'm driving down the road. When it was working it worked fine. It had the different fan speeds like it was supposed to. It would just not work at all, or work fine. Now it doesn't work at all. I checked all fuses, and swapped the relay for the windshield wiper relay that i know works and still nothing.
I unplugged the blower motor and put 12v to it and it didn't work so i thought i found the problem. Took out the blower motor put power to it again and it spun just fine. Plugged it back into the harness and it worked other than no low speed. Flipped the switch back and forth, then low speed worked, up to high, but no difference between speed 2-3. Put it all back together and it seemed like all the speeds were working fine. Day later, won't work at all again.
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Do we need to drain the fluid to change the transfer case motor?
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Looking for a write-up on replacing the seals on the hose that leaks at the power steering pump? I replace them once but may of over tightened them. I pour in atf and see it dripping on drivers side of power steering pump. Can I just use regular o rings?
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I did the extended seal kit and non-serviceable plug on my HPOP and now the CEL is on. It is throwing the below codes. The truck in all reality runs fine and even a little better on a cold start than before resealing, just the CEL is on.
P1280
P1209
P1282
P1212
P1211
I cleaned the IPR when it was out when I put new seals on it but could it go bad by just taking it apart? The ICP and IPR are definitely plugged in. The truck is all stock, no chips.
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I have my 2002 Ford F450 7.3 diesel in the shop right now. Early story is it is leaking in the turbo or there is a problem with the turbo. Last summer I took the truck cross country and 500 miles from home I was gunning it to get on the highway and it started acting up (poor excelleration). And it started smoking and leaking oil. I crippled it home at lower speeds. Now that it's in the shop they told me about the turbo but have to keep it till tomorrow for a closer look. My question is what else should I consider since they have it in. I mean should they replace the turbo while their at it or any other parts that make sense since they are already into it?
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I let a small leak that I thought was engine oil go too long it appears before checking the transmission which had still been working ok. I added a whole quart of Lucas and then another quart of Mercon so the level was pretty low. What to do next as I am about to leave Alaska and go back down the highway. Is my ZF trashed now? Still seems to work fine. Or is there a seal somewhere that I can change?
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So just a couple hundred miles ago I changed the oil and oil filter in my 99 7.3 ... It wasn't till today I noticed an oil/coolant leak ... It is on the driver side of the engine by the oil cooler ... "It isn't the oil cooler leaking already checked"... It seems to be behind the water pump to the driver side of the hpop... Where the thermostat is it is like right behind that but I can't think of what it is .... Its not the oil pump leaking ... It is leaking down and being blown back across my oil pan and oil filter... That is the oil cooler it has residue but its not the problem
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Initially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
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My feed truck (2001 ext cab 4x4 7.3 198k) had a cold starting issue I fixed with new gp relay. Now I noticed when it gets down below 30 degrees it has a cylinder miss until motor warms up. I don't doubt injectors are in my future. I was wondering though if that is common for worn injectors or if maybe something else has gone haywire and how long can I run it like that before something else tears up? after about 7-10 min the miss goes away and I don't notice it. I would like to get through the winter before messing with it or having injectors put in it...
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So my understanding is that if your turbo is leaking oil, you either need to rebuild it or get a new turbo cause the one you have is shot.
I have some oil leaking, but it's not a ton. One one of my buddies was telling me that it's possible that the amount that is leaking is normal due to the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) system, or something like that. Here are a few shots of the turbo, as well as the boots that are leading up to the turbo.
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I have a 7.3 and I think it's leaking oil out of the HPOP but I'm really not positive.
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Well my hpop is cracked and leaking alot I need to get home this sucks I must of tighted it too hard
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