Installed Tekonsha P3 on my 2000 F350 I used the recommend pig tail easy hookup when I press brake pedal no voltage at plug but when I move the manual lever I get voltage. I believe the stop light switch activates it. The fuses all check out. I did have a Banks engine brake installed by their people I don't know if makes a difference
View 8 RepliesI have an issue with my 1999 Ford F350 7.3L diesel and stalling when the accelerator pedal is pressed and released.
Background: Initially the truck would not start, and from there here are all the things that I found wrong and replaced. (keep in mind that I troubleshot all the issues and every part that was replaced was proven faulty)... Starting with the glow plugs, all but 3 were faulty and not making a connection to ground. (only one broke off in the head, but I was able to get it out with out getting anything in the cyl)..
Valve cover gasket and harnesses, this is to include replacing the connectors on the engine harness cause both sides of the connectors were broken. The ICP was leaking into the connector and breaking the connection to the PCM, so the connector was cleaned and the sensor replaced. No issues from that now.
The IPR was replaced cause the oil pressure was erratic and not stable when I had my pressure gauge hooked up testing the pressure. After that was replaced the pressure was ok, and it climbed with RPM's and fell back down like it was suppose to. I could not get the PSI up to 3000 PSI even at full RPM's, but it did not drop past 600 psi.
The fuel tank was recently replaced, and all the fuel was removed and "fresh/good" fuel was put in. The fuel bowl was cleaned out and the filter replaced. (the fuel bowl did have a lot of crap in it like rust and dirt). Fuel pressure was at 95 PSI last time I checked, which is higher than the recommended 60 to 65 PSI.
That being said the engine did start and run, but was very rough and missing. So I did all the injector o-rings. Some o-rings were starting to split, and others were not sealing like the copper washer on the injector tip. I could tell by the amount of crap in the end of the injector. ( not the tip, but where the injector contacts the injector cup. There must have been water in there or something cause that part had all kinds of crap around it)
The engine smoothed out after a couple day of running it, but it would still stall when it was cold. The block heater was replaced cause it was falling out. The oil was changed and the filter too. The CMP sensor was changed just because I know they will cause the engine not to start. I had a "known good" truck that I can swap part to and from, and I did a lot of that thus far.
Swapped the IDM, PCM, EBP sensor, MAP sensor, all relays inside the engine and in the cab. I was looking for the barometric pressure sensor, but from what I have read thus far that is a calculation in the PCM between the MAP and the EBP sensors. The diode to the PCM is good,I checked the harness for rubbing by the 42 pin connector and by the LF fender but I did not find any chaffing or rubbing on any wires. The ECPR was wired together, so I fixed it so that it is no longer that way, and the waste gate for the turbo was wired open. I took the wire off and made sure the linkage worked and it did move. I tried to lube up the valve in the turbo for back pressure, but I'm not sure if it worked or not.
I also swapped out the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure temp sensor on the HPOP Reservoir, and blew out the EBP sensors tube. (air went straight through the tube with no restrictions.) I did a buzz test and all the coils checked out ok. I also did a contribution test and only three cylinders were identified as having some kind of issue. (but this is not enough to cause the engine to stall..) The only current codes that I have are the air intake heater, and the EF feedback not detected. Neither of which would cause the engine to stall in my opinion.
Symptoms:
When cold: The engine will start and idle just fine, but when the accelerator is pressed and held to 1000 RPM's the engine will sputter like its missing and surge up and down between 500 and 1100 RPM's. If the accelerator pedal is pressed quickly the engine speed to increase then fall down and stall. It seems as if the PCM is shutting down and starting back up. ( Like the key is turned off and then back on quickly, but the engine doesn't recover)
When warming: This issue becomes more erratic, but when hot the engine is fine. No issues, and it will drive all day long with no hesitation.
The truck has over 200K on it, but I know it will go more! It is a mannuel tranny, and is a 4X4, and I love it, I can't get ride of it just yet.
2000 Ford 7.3 E450 120,000 miles...
I have changed the CPS twice
I have checked the resistance of the injectors at the IDM connector with a volt meter and the harness reports back good.
The truck will run with ether for a few seconds
I have changed the fuel filter.
The fuel bowl fills quickly
I have unplugged the ICP.
The truck is showing low voltage on the gauge with a good battery. Around 10v
I have connected my 200amp car starter and I never see over 10v. I plan to check the grounds, but I am at a loss.
Everything is difficult because this is a van body so space is limited. I have also plugged in the block heater for an hour and that hasn't made any difference. Where can I get the best price on an AE scanner.
03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
Truck starts great. Press peddle and it misses or lunges the rpm guage goes crazy . Has a little bit of white is blue is smoke. The ficm has 48v at all times.
View 5 RepliesI'm having issue with my brake lights. Checked for voltage and nothing. Checked the fuses under the dash. Checked the brake pedal switch and have power going out when the pedal is pressed. Is there a relay or something somewhere else? 1999 f250 7.3 superduty....
View 2 RepliesSo I have my 2000 F250 in the shop because I was feeling a funny vibration in my brake pedal. (isn't warped rotors, I know what that feels like). It also felt like the brakes were on, then would release a little, lengthening my stopping distance.
I took it to a small local shop and the guy said it sounds like the hydroboost. I told them to fix it. Next day, before they start to fix, they call and say they can't guarantee it's the hydroboost and may be the Power Steering pump.
My question is; is there a way to test it to know for sure which part is failing? How do I figure out which one is causing the problem?
Ive had plenty of brake issues with this truck since I've owned it and I finally got to inspect a brake i knew was having issues. The outside pad was metal on metal. The inside pad was gone and the one piston was extended completely open while the other one was closed. So to the question. Ive bled it like i do any other caliper and no luck. I went an bled all the other calipers and still no luck. The brakes seem to be working ok even though i never really tested them super hard but the pedal is far lower then it was before.
View 9 RepliesNew to me 2002 F-250 PSD, done brakes all the way around for piece of mind.
Job went very well, replaced one caliper and its bracket, serviced all pins and replaced one set of pins as well, (different corner). Bled brakes all day via gravity, watching reservoir and filling as needed as to flush in new fluid. Truck is in great shape. Mileage 153,000 no rust, turned all rotors just to re-surface.
Now here is what's happened, my pedal is good but it pulses in the first 1/2 inch of travel and once passed that no pulse, got under and watched the pedal rod do this as I very easily touched it in that first 1/2 inch of travel, you don't even begin to get much brake started here if any! Truck running; yes-Truck not running no pulse action occurs.
I'll add this: fluid removed had a green tint to it but had no moisture or bad odor. Different fluid??? I didn't know. Used Dot 3 Off the shelf O'Reilly's.
Hydro-booster didn't like fluid? Air? Master cylinder? No leaks before or after this procedure.
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger, 5spd with 3.0 v6. The speedometer will jump around or quit about half the time whenever you push the brake pedal or use the turn signals. I've cleaned all the grounds I can find including taking the battery cables off the clamps and cleaning them, and I had to clean all the fuses (inside box and outside box) because most of them were corroded. It still does it. Occasionally, I'll hear a buzzing/crackling noise like electricity arcing when I use the brakes or the turn signals which sounds like it's coming from the left side of the dashboard.
I took off panels and the fuse box, but I don't see any sign of arcing. Also, the noise only occurs when the truck is actually moving, never when it's sitting still. Also, the engine has a slight flutter at an idle. I hooked up a computer, and the O2 sensors were erratically jumping between rich and lean, so I replaced all of them. It says Insufficient EGR flow detected, so I did put a new EGR valve on and cleared the codes, but it still reads the same. And lastly, the computer refuses to finish either of its diagnostic tests. I've tried the Koeo and the koer tests, and neither will complete.
2001 F350 XL... Fitting on PS pump broke and I lost PS and PB with fluid everywhere. Replaced the hose with a new one from Autozone and I have no noticeable leaks.
I know I lost more than a quart but I could only add less than a quart (Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF). I'm also getting a whine from the steering wheel when I turn stop to stop. The power steering is back and there are no leaks (that I see) but the brake pedal is mushy. I've pumped and turned stop to stop for a while. Do I have to bleed the system like I'm doing a fluid flush? I hate to waste the synthetic fluid that I changed about two years ago.
Batteries are a year old. Drove to work. Now won't turn over even with a diesel truck jumping. Voltage above 12 and slowly drops when cranking.
View 14 Replies2003 F-350 - 7.3. With the key in the on position there is zero voltage to the fuel pump. Fuel pump fuse is good. I traced the red with black tracer wire from the pump up through the firewall and to the safety inertia switch. The switch has continuity so it's OK. Then from the safety switch I traced the green with yellow tracer wire to a fuse block plug connector. Then I checked continuity from that connector out to the #40 fuel pump fuse and it's open.
So I then i checked from the fuel pump fuse to all the back connections on the back of the fuse block and there was no continuity to any of them. So I removed the back cover off the fuse block to expose any issues. I found two board mounted relays. Now, from the fuse I get continuity to one of the relay connections. So did Ford hide the fuel pump relay and make it non replaceable? Also if this is the pump relay then what circuit energizes it? I need to make sure before I replace the fuse block.
I do run a small battery maintainer during the winter months plugged into a three way with the block heater. Alright after sitting out side for approx 9-10 hrs in 22 degree weather I did these checks. Battery voltages at 12.55V and 12.6V on batteries.
Voltage coming into for was also 12.5V. When glow plugs activated I am getting 11V on the other side of the gpr. After cycling glow plugs battery voltages drop to 9.6V during cranking and as soon as she starts back to 12.5V.
Do these numbers sounds right? In my opinion isn't the drop to 9.6V during cranking a little low or is that the normal?
Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
My Volt gauge on the dash has started reading around 10V with the key on waiting on the GP's. Batteries read +/- 12.6V with a DVM in a static state, no key.
But, quickly as best as I could see the reading on the DS battery drop to around 10V with the key on, GP's cycling. Cranking drops down around 8Vish.
After starting the reading on the DS battery is back up to 10V. This lasts anywhere from 30 seconds to a few min. Then it jumps up to the expected 14.6V reading.
I cleaned up the battery terminals and clamps while doing my turbo,and all the connections are tight.
I've read some treads on the temp gauge sending unit but I'm a little foggy on where to look for my problem. I just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3, temp gauge not working. It has a new sending unit. I read some threads about the voltage at the plug but I have no voltage on either side of the plug. The way I understand it red/white wire goes to the battery. Is there a fuse between them and which one is it? and if fuse is ok is there a cronic problem that someone might know of that I can look for?
View 7 RepliesBit of a confusing one as of late. Doesn't happen every time I drive, maybe 50% of the time. When I start the truck up, torque pro reads voltage at 13.9-14.1 consistent. After 30 minutes it usually drops to around 13.7/13.8. Sometimes, battery light comes on, voltage doesn't drop. I can drive the truck, park it, turn it off, restart, no side effects.
I notice if I stop, turn off the truck, and restart it, torq pro will begin to read a voltage of 12.8.13.0. Sometimes it won't budge for an hour, sometimes it climbs right back up to 13.8, sometimes the battery light goes off, sometimes it stays on.
Alternator was replaced a month ago, both batteries replaced a week ago, all terminals cleaned and secured at the time of replacement. Truck behaves perfectly normal, I'm almost at the point of putting a piece of tape over the light and ignoring it, but was curious before I go that route.
The front end of my Toyota Echo has been squealing but only when it's either in drive or in 2nd gear and only when the brake pedal is pressed, once I release the brake pedal it only squeals for a few seconds then once the car moves faster than 5 miles an hour it goes away.. I completely replaced the suspension late last year. I just replaced the belt a few minutes ago and it still does this. I noticed that when the car is off and in park, when I shake the car forward and backward I hear a slight squeal coming from the front. I think it might be the engine mounts and or the transmission mount. What could it be?
View 12 RepliesSo when its cold and im talking below 55 degrees, and the truck hadn't been started that day, it will turn over 3 or 4 times before the voltmeter takes a dive down to 10 volts or so and doesn't start. The voltage will keep falling if cranking continues. I took the batteries out and had them tested. They are both above the rated cca. So im thinking it could be the starter windings?
I did replace an injector recently so all the cranking to get it going again may have ruined the starter? But when I hook up the battery charger and jump the truck it starts. And after it has been started it will continue to start easily the rest of the day.
The brief information:
1. Stuck/non moving in traffic on the freeway for roughly 1 1/2. During that time the AC was running, but once I noticed my "battery light" on the dash turn on, I turned everything off.
2. Since then while on my way home from work the voltage meter only showed barely 12 volts at full throttle.
3. I charged my battteries, and started it up today to go into work. While going to work the voltage meter showed 14 at its high point, but shortly there after it dropped back down to 12. At which time the battery light came back on.
New battery or alternator?