Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Knocking Noise - Cracked Piston / Rod Bearing?
May 16, 2017
Chasing this knock and I'm starting to get a little bit worried. So I'm looking for what I should do next.
Here is the truck info... 2000 F250 4x4 206k. . Swamps Diesel 200/30's. Terminator HPOP. GTP38R. EBPV delete pedestal. Banks wastegate. AFE stage 2 intake. RiffRaff FRX. 4" exhaust. Hydra chip. John Wood Auto. 6.0 Trans cooler.
I have a knock sound coming from the area of #8. It is noticeably louder in that area with a stethoscope. Its not any louder anywhere else (oil pan, block, otherside of engine, or front). Truck does not smoke and runs and idles great otherwise. Was thinking possibly the cackle/fuel knock issue these trucks have but with bigger injectors and the FRX could this even still be a possibility?! Anyways here is what I've done.
Checked fuel pressure and at idle it is 61/62 with any tune. At WOT on Econ tune it goes down to ~40ish psi. With the extreme tune WOT dived down to 28/29psi. So my thinking was maybe that injector got screwed up so...
Swapped #8 injector with #2 so the front injector with the back to see if either it had some bad o rings or isolate the injector as the problem if the noise moved cylinders with the injector. While I did this I put brand new O-Rings on those two injectors and popped them in. Got it fired up and the knock is still in #8.
Unplugging the injector with the engine running the noise seems to disappear. HOWEVER, when I use the stethoscope the knocking noise still sounds like it's there but very faint. Without the stethoscope I can't hear it. Also driving the truck down the freeway and letting it coast the noise goes away when the injectors get cut off.
Recently pulled off valve cover and checked the pushrods and rockers on #8 and all looked fine. At this point I'm thinking wrist pin, rod bearing or cracked piston??? Could it somehow still be a fuel knock?
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I have a late 99 7.3 that developed a knocking noise. I pulled the passenger's head and cylinder 5&7 have a spot where it looks like it came in contact with the valve. I'm not some master mechanic but am learning. What would be my next step to find why it hit the valve and to fix the problem?
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I need a film crew to document this stuff, but here's what I've got. This engine had a cracked piston. It is currently torn down and ready to go to the machine shop. I ordered a powder coating set up, so everything that fits in the oven will get powder!
This engine will get cut/coated pistons, cryoed forged rods, 250/100's, waste gated T4/S369, head studs, 910 valve springs, smith bros pushrods, etc. We'll also be using a Southbend dual disc clutch in front of the freshly rebuilt ZF6.
Here's some of the shiny stuff.
I think I'll give up a little top end to spool faster. Especially since this is a 6spd build.
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Noise goes away (or maybe it quietens to the point that you can't hear it) when you raise the idle just slightly. No smoking, no hard to start, no rough idle, no indicators of anything wrong at city or highway speed, nothing else out of the ordinary to report.
275K miles
[URL] .....
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My 2000 7.3 2wd is making a knocking sound while accelerating. It speeds up as I accel and when I let off the gas it gets louder. It slows down all the way to a stop when the truck slows to a stop. I can feel it in the floor board a bit as well.
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I have begun to notice a "Knock" or "rattle" in the engine. I know diesels have a tendency to sound like that just from running but that sound is more of a "cackle" if you ask me.
I can hear the "knock" most noticeably at hard acceleration or taking off in general. It can also be heard during idle and every so faintly at deceleration with the torque converter locked so it makes me thing its mechanical due to the nature of the way the sound is audible.
I believe the sound is coming from the passenger side bank as that is where I can hear it the best with my head under the hood. I have a code reader and checked, I have no visible codes other than it telling me about secondary fuel circuit high which I suspect was from showing off with my friends.
I did a cylinder balance test and again got 3 (PO269) and 8(PO284) which I have been told are very common.
I checked my ICP readings and it was 500~ and 11%
Pulse width for injectors was 2.50~
I did a KOER test and received no codes
Glow Plugs showed okay
KOEO (PO605)- Internal Control Module Read Only Memory error.
Exhaust Absolute Back Pressure was 16.2 at Idle with MBRP 4" Turbo back.
Also, I have noticed a drop of about 5-10 degrees in my oil temp and about 100 degrees drop in my EGT's although it has been pretty cold here recently (32 degree oil temp when I started her at 2 in the afternoon)..
I think it might be a bad piston skirt? I am guessing that from my experience with motorcycle engines but these are a totally different beast and that is why I am here...
I have 634,000 Miles and from what I have been told the engine has never been broken into so I would expect something like this myself. I am mostly looking for a place to start. Should I pull the oil pan and look for debris? (Oil was clean last time I changed it less than 2000 miles ago).
Should I pull the passenger bank apart and look inside? Is there a chance I am just hearing the noise due to the additive wearing off and me being used to the quieter engine?
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My truck is currently stock and recently started making a knocking noise louder than it usually does. I researched and have found the injectors can make a knocking noise when not performing correctly. I took it to a local shop who hooked it up to a snap on scan tool and ran some tests. It passed the Buzz test but continually failed the contribution test on cylinder 8. I'm going to go home and remove valve cover and unclip the injector to see if the noise goes away. I'm sure hoping it does as an injector by the looks of things is definitely the cheaper option. I'm scared because if I was listening to a gas powered truck and heard the sound my trucks making I would assume it was a lower end noise. My truck only has 148,000 miles....
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Well my hpop is cracked and leaking alot I need to get home this sucks I must of tighted it too hard
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I'm in the middle of replacing the hub and bearing assembly, once i got the hub assembly off, I noticed when I grab the axle there is a lot of play if I pull the axle up and down or left to right. Is this normal as the hub assembly holds it in position? I don't have any fluid leaking so the seal must be good, or am I missing something. I am trying to do this in 30 degree weather and it sucks.
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I need to replace the needle bearing in one of my hubs. I was wondering if the bearing needs pressed in or can it be hammered in with a large socket and a hammer?
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I had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
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My passenger side wheel bearing is going out. I had a local company replace it under extended warranty 7 years and 90k miles back. I think I have gotten pretty good life out of it. I think it was from Napa but not positive. I try to grease then once a year but I'm not always successful.
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As soon as I stepped on the brake and started to move backwards out of the garage, pedal pulsed and ABS light came on. Now it comes on shortly after starting and stepping on the brakes. I just finished the drivers side wheel bearing, u-joint, brake pads, rotors, outer axle stub, and all "outer axles" seals replacement.
AllAboutMPG offered a suggestion about shims on the sensor and checking the ring (never done this, figure it out when I'm there later today?) I figured I'd put this here for some additional input and (hopefully!) later be a good search source and fix for fellow members
Here is the original thread. I installed a Timken complete wheel hub unit with new sensor already installed on the hub.
[URL] ....
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It's time to replace my axle bearing and hub assembly. Looking at RiffRaff site they show 3 different models. Early 99, fine course and course. I think I have the course thread but just want to make sure before I order. My truck is a L99 and I don't have the abs sensor. Looks like all 3 have come with the abs sensor. Do I simply not connect the sensor? Here's a pic of what i have. Course thread?
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I was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
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2001, F250, 4x4, 432,000 miles...
Seems this truck eats up bearing assemblies. Its like every 2-3 years, I'm having to replace one side or the other. And we talking like 30-40,000 miles....
BTW.... although I'm not out doing much 4x4 driving, this truck does do a lot of dirt roads, probably over 50%...
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This truck has done it since I got (6 months ago). When I take off from a stop that is a clunk. It a bit like towing a trailer with surge brakes. Do they all do it? 2000 Extend cab 4X4 auto 235K miles.
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I have a 2000 Ford F350 7.3 with the auto and 262,000 miles on it. As far as I know everything is stock on this truck. It has been a great truck but lately its been making a strange noise. It almost sounds like an exhaust rattle or vibration but it is intermittent. Its not really loud it can be heard best in the cab at idle. I've looked all over on the truck and haven't found anything. I can't pinpoint where it is coming from. I tried starting the truck with the serpentine belt off no change.
I took the inspection plate off the bell housing and couldn't see any cracks the torque converter bolts appear tight, and the starter is not engaged while running. I've read a few forums on the torque converter going bad. It looks to me like its more the 99 trucks that had trouble with that. Did the torque converter issue carry over to the 2000's? Would a torque converter/transmission problem be intermittent?
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00 F250 338k auto
No error codes or warning lights (Forscan verified)
No smoke out of the exhaust
No oil or coolant leaks
Have banging noise from the motor. When cold truck sounds normal, quiet. When it warms up, the banging becomes audible. You can hear it at idle. You can hear it under acceleration. Frequency increases with RPM
When at speed, and letting off the throttle, noise goes away.....comes back when back on the throttle. Any time during driving when I let off, engine quiets down to normal. To me it sounds like exhaust leak, bur not sure how to check for those?
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I have a 02 power stroke 7.3, driving down the road the other day is started smoking a grayish white smoke pretty good. i let off the throttle and it had a real loud knock along with the smoke. oil pressure was good. i stuck it in neutral and revved it up kept smoking but the knock would go away at higher rpm. then all at once it would stop and run fine. then today it started doing it and wont stop now at all.
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My pickup has 316,000 miles on it. It's a 2000 ford f250 7.3 powerstroke. I have always bragged how my truck can pull anything because it has alot of power. Yesterday when pulling a 28' travel trailer up an incline I noticed I didn't have much power and it steadily got worse. Now I'm at a crawl when I hear a noise sounding like it lost air compression for a few minutes then the noise stopped. I stopped and looked to make sure everything under the hood was still attached and everything seemed fine.
I got back in and continued very slowly a few more miles home. Gauge were all good, never got hot. I put a scanner on it and it threw two codes. P1247 and P1248. I haven't noticed any unusual smoke. This is my second ford I've owned and know that when weather gets cold you may have to plug it in. But this truck it doesn't matter if it's 100 outside it will not start without plugging in for at least 1 hour. I've replaced all glow plugs hasn't worked. So I am assuming this break down now has something to do with it. I really am starting to not like fords!
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