My 2000 f350 has wires that dont match anything I've seen. I need to mate this to an 08 harness so I need to be accurate. I have
(2) yellow. I know this is 12v constant
(2) green/purple I know this is 12v constant
(1) red/black
(2) solid red
(1) solid black
(1) gray/light blue
I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine. I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
I am going to add some led's to illuminate the steps getting into my truck at night. I plan on putting them directly under the door over the steps. Is there a wire under the door threshold I can tap into at each door? If so what color? If not, where to get the power from. I want them to turn on and off with the interior lights when doors are opened.
View 1 RepliesI need to connect a remote start stop for a bucket truck attachment to this new 2016 F550. Found everything except the ignition wiring harness diagram. Need to know what I can tie in to.
View 4 RepliesWhere I can get the head light to fog light wiring harness..it is almost as hard as finding the holly grail..... 2001 f350 7.3 .......
View 9 RepliesI plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
I purchased one of the No Start relay for my 2000 Ford F-250 Turbo diesel and need assistance finding the relay to replace.
Originally I thought it was for the fuel pump then then discovered it replaces the ignition relay.
According to the company it's located on the passenger side under the hood. Can't find any fuses there.
I looked in the user manual and found nothing about an ignition relay. Just "PCM Relay Coil, Ignition Coil (Gasoline only), Fuel Heater (Diesel only), Wastegate Solenoid (Diesel only), Injector Driver Module Relay Coil"
The relay I purchased is from: "No Start" Relay, "No-Start" Intelligent Relay System, Vehicle Theft Deterrent
Need to know the Ford part number for cab light wiring harness? I am wanting to install some LED cab lights but I do not currently have any so I will need the wiring harness.
View 3 RepliesAs it turns out my entire dash needs to come out to repair the HVAC so thinking while it's out I should add the diesel supplemental heater. What's involved with this? I need to replace the entire HVAC plenum so imagine the version with the supplemental heater can be bought instead. I know it's an 1800W electrical heater so my main question is the wiring harness on a regular truck setup for it or do I need to change the harness. And then I suspect the HVAC control module would need to be reprogrammed as well.
View 13 RepliesFirst I lost the power window functionality in the rear left door... didn't think too much of it, then I lost the power door lock functionality, which was bad because I was assuming my door was getting locked when it wasn't actually. Pulled open my door this evening and found this:
I think my truck overheard me when I was saying "I like a good electrical problem, those are my favorite." I'll solder it up to get it working tonight, and then I'll see what a new harness costs... although really they should have used ultra-fine-strand wire with silicone insulation for an application that sees lots of flexing.
My multimeter's test leads are such an example of wiring that is intended to see lots of flexing.
My dumb self cut my factory harness to install a radio and after hooking up said radio (which I know how to do) it popped a fuse. So to avoid any trouble I need to put another harness in but again with my stupidity I cut the wires too short. finding the correct harness
View 2 RepliesSo after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
Looking for an electrical schematic and or wiring diagram of the windshield wiper circuit for a 06' Super Duty?
View 5 RepliesWhile engine was running. brake switch "recall harness" shorted to exhaust manifold blowing fuse 22. truck died instantly. found the short and replaced fuse. checked all fuses good but no start since. WTS indicator stays on. tried a new GPR and a new CPS.
Does IPR and brake switch (on master cylinder) share fuse 22? fuse 22 holds now (when wire was fused to exhaust manifold it blew as soon as key turned on). unplugged FBH no change. recall harness "beeps" good and wires do not appear burnt. also shuffled relays around in central junction box.
Could formerly access OBD2 port with superchips programmer but no access now. fearing the worst, but hoping maybe bad ipr sensor (or another sensor) could cause this. Is it likely or not that this short fried the PCM?
As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
I have what might be a big problem, the main harness on top of the drivers side valve cover I can't get undone, the bolt holding it together is stripped or the nut who knows? wondering if there is any way to take it apart otherwise.
View 11 RepliesI'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
View 14 RepliesHad to change the UVC harness on my 2001 7.3. Truck fell out. Trailered it home and changed the UVC harness on the passenger side. Truck is running great, but now the OD light is flashing. Can't read transmission codes, but was wondering if something from the bad harness could have caused this? Any thoughts?
View 7 RepliesI 2000 f250 throughout a few years.
Anyways, I recently aquired a tekonsha voyager (for free) and went to install it, but have run into a problem with the installation.
I searched to find a wire color guide to figure out what wires are which on the under dash connector, but cannot find the answer I'm searching for.
Currently I have a red, green, blue, brown, and yellow wire on the underdash connector, while the tekonsha only has red, white, blue, and black. (I know what colors do what on the controller, but am completly lost on the under dash plug, and can't trace it back without tearing out the entire dash assembly.
Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
View 14 RepliesI seem to have a glitch in my ignition switch box or column. Most likely in the column itself. Whats the recommended course of action here? Contact cleaner and then white lithium grease in the column? Can WLG be used on the ignition switch box itself, that's bolted under the column?
View 14 Replies