Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - How To Get Better Tranny Shifts
Aug 1, 2015
'00 PSD w/ 291k on the clock. Starts easily, runs good, only complaint is (what I consider to be) the soft shift of the tranny. Years ago, when I bought it, it came with a Super Chips Tuner. I've never max'd it out, just usually run on the performance tow. Is there any way to clean up the shifts and make them a bit quicker with less slip. When it's time to shift, dammit, I want it to "SHIFT", not slide into gear. I don't expect it to hit the gears like a manual valve bodied drag car tranny. But, there should be something to fix this without spending a bunch of $$$..
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
Here is my issue. I have a 2000 e350 7.3 the overdrive light is flashing, the speedometer and the odometer isnt working it also shifts hard, i changed the vss, the vss plug, range sensor, and alternator. still acting up. also all the fuses are good.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 188,000 miles on it. I bought it used with 110K miles and put a new tranny in at that time. Now, I am having problems. I don't know if it's the tranny or the engine. It looses power when climbing hills. It takes off really slow with no power and finally gets up to speed it switches gears the whole time smoothly but the engine just can't take a load.
The check engine light came on and put out 10 codes:
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent
P1747 Electronic Solenoid A-Short Circuit
P0743-Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0750-Shift Solenoid "A"
P0755-Shift Solenoid "B"
P0760-Shift Solenoid "C"
P0765-Shift Solenoid "D"
P0135-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P0155-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P1409-EGR Vacuum Regulator Circuit Malfunction
Those are the codes and I don't know how one has anything to do with the other. I checked the dip stick on the tranny and it's clean. Juicy red and not shavings.
View 4 Replies
Tranny rebuilt, truck in sig, and beefed up 2 1/2 years and 30K miles ago. Recently started going into D after 10 to 20 seconds after putting it in gear, cold or hot. Very frustrating, especially when trying to maneuver a trailer.
Transmission builder has been running his shop for 20+ years, all makes and models, not Ford specific. I choose him because he runs a local business, has a good reputation, and happens to live less then 1/4 mile from me.
I have searched the forums, and read where Mark says this is loose valve body bolts, or forward drum going out. Builder can't grasp where it would be drum seal if it doesn't do it all the time, which it doesn't. He said it sounds more like something electrical, but there are no codes stored on pcm.
Builder also said he would pull tranny to check drum. Does this sound like I'm moving in the right direction? Or can it be something else?
View 6 Replies
So last year I pulled the motor and put a new pan on. Since then the oil has leaked from the rear lobe at the back of the pan. No oil leaks up top of engine. So I pulled the tranny and am going to put in a rear main. I also see a plate that bolts on the back of the motor and the bottom glues to the pan. I am concerned I did not glue the pan well enough in the lobe as only about 1.5 inches of the lobe has a small amount of grey rtv sticking out. How do I remove the aluminum mount on back of motor that the tranny bolts to? What seals the plate? Oring? Gasket?
View 2 Replies
What's too big? I just put 33s on my super duty, is it "too much" for the transmission?
View 7 Replies
The first has I replaced my tranny with a stock 4r100 tranny and torque that only has 75k on it. The guy was doing a 6-speed swap. After I had the tranny and torque converter and a new tranny cooler installed, the tranny shifts real hard. I think it may be from my DP Tuner. Even on my economy tune driving it very easy sometimes, it jolts into gear pretty good.
I was wondering if I could just get a shift kit to maybe correct that and if so if I would have to drop the tranny to install the shift kit. I saw a bully dog kit for like 75 bucks, however, I don't really have the money to have the truck in a shop and I would really like to not drop the tranny and not lose all my tranny fluid if possible (very expensive).
Also my other issue, the truck in warm or cold weather is very hard to start. Half of the time it takes two tries to start it. It will crank and crank and no go. Then the second try it fires right up. It has two new batteries, where do I start? Is it possible that the starter is just getting old or is it fuel or oil pressure related possibly?
View 2 Replies
2001 7.3 auto, 2wdr, 291,000, Transmission sometimes shifts hard from 1st-2nd, 2nd-3rd. Problem started after I found trans dip stick tube broken and loss of fluid. Anything I can do without going to a shop. I've replaced the Broken Tube.
View 2 Replies
I spoke with a few people here before about my 4r100.. it threw a code a month ago for P0750.. i replaced solenoid and it continued to do it even after clearing codes numerous times.. then all of a sudden it was perfectly fine for over a week, no codes, i ran a few brick hauls with it and ran it for over an hour straight.. i went to fl and upon return i took her for a drive and wouldnt you know, the code has returned.. i did hammer down a little but not from a dig, i just got on it a little playing with a neighbor and his truck and all of a sudden it did its thing slipping and not up shifting then the O/D started flashing again... i cant understand why the code would come back all of a sudden, there has to be a wiring problem correct?
View 9 Replies
I just bought a 2002 F250 7.3 4x4 auto. It had a TS 6 position tuner installed. In stock mode, I got about 11 mpg. I wasn't too impressed. I found that when I left it in 75hp mode, my mileage went up to 21. I drive easy and try to keep shifts at or below 2,000 rpm. The problem is that, when in any position other than stock, my transmission shifts HARD.
My question is: what's going on here? Does the TS change the transmission shifts? Or is the extra bump in power enough to stress the tranny? Based on the factory gauge, the transmission is not running hot. The fluid is nice and pink with no odors or metal shavings. I'd hate to prematurely kill my transmission, but nearly doubling my fuel mileage is hard to pass up.
View 14 Replies
I just had my tranny rebuilt it doesn't shift hard all the time but it does from time to time going from 2nd -3rd and 3rd -4th I thought being new it may need to soak up some fluid so the bands can swell so I ask the shop that rebuilt it that question he said they soaked them as they rebuilt it so they should be swollen already then he proceeded to tell me it was electrical is he telling me the truth because the ck engine light isn't showing any faults and if it was electric shouldn't that have been fixed in the shop while it was being rebuilt if it was interior electronic?
View 1 Replies
00' 7.3 is acting a little strange lately. i was towing a 15 foot trailer the other day for about 250 miles that wasn't all that heavy and my foot felt like it was very close to the floor. I had it to the floor and the truck would only go 60. now even without that trailer its better but still i feel as if i have to really put my foot down into it to speed up. if i go all the way to the floor in o/d it'll downshift and start speeding up but very very slowly then i run out of pedal and am at the floor, a lot slower than before. Before i wouldn't get to the floor and id already be moving pretty good. but now i gotta keep it pretty much 3/4 way down and keep it there to get up to speed and stay there. truck has 253k no tuner or programmer just 6637 intake and an exhaust, ww2. leveled on 35's. the tranny isn't slipping or at least doesn't seem to be. She doesn't shift perfect but its not anything crazy bad for stock with 253k on it. maybe something wrong with the actual pedal? or hopefully not but maybe the trans or motor , or maybe a sensor or something?
View 14 Replies
I purchased a 2000 excursion with the 7.3 a couple of weeks ago. The guy said originally in the add that it need #2 and #8 injectors replaced. When I went and looked at it he had already replaced them and said the it still has no power and needed the remaining 6 replaced. I purchased it as it was a good deal thinking I should be able to get it fixed for worst case a set of injectors. BTW the engine has little to no blowby and starts easy and idles great.
The problem it it will not build any boost (has external boost gauge). Actually the gauge only shows vacuum. With the truck in park or neutral you can slowly rev the motor to 2500rpm and all seems fine but as soon as you break past 2500rpm it sound like it is missing and starts blowing white smoke. The smoke smells like when a diesel heater runs out of diesel. If you try and drive it it has NO power and will not move out of its own way and will eventually start like it is missing and blowing white smoke.
The previous owner replaced the following:
#2 injector
#8 injector
UVC gaskets
MAP Sensor
Wastegate solenoid sensor
The first thing I did was start looking at the no boost issue and pulled the turbo. I deleted the EBPV while i was there. Also the turbine wheel was in very bad shape so i replaced the turbine wheel, shaft, seals, bushings and installed a new compressor wheel 5+5 wheel off ebay. Reinstalled turbo and the symptoms are the same. I also replaced the clamps on the spider with Tbolt clamps instead of the worm gear styles and it psi tested all piping and intercooler to 30psi with no leaks. Also the up pipes have already been replaced with the bellowed style so there are no leaks and it has a 4" straight exhaust.
I have since ordered oring kits for the injectors and also ordered the fittings for the fuel bowl so i can check fuel pressure. it has a new air filter, oil filter, oil and fuel filter installed.
The ICP sensor has oil in the plug but if i unplug it the symptoms are still there.
I have also used a scanner and the ICP pressure is approx 500psi at idle and the duty cycle is about 11% at idle. Also the HPOP looks to be new as it is very clean compared to the surrounding parts and i have checked the HPOP reservoir and it is full to withing 1/2" from the threads.
2000 Excursion
7.3
205000 miles
I am assuming that the injectors are original other than #2 and #8.
View 14 Replies
I have a F350 that has intermittent power loss.
View 14 Replies
Iam looking at a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke that has some problems first it is hard to start cranks like it has a dead cyl. Second after starting it has no power not even enough to move. At first it would only run if held wide open but once it warmed up it would idle and rev and move but barely still had a miss. The weird thing is it did not smoke blue-black or white also no strong smell of diesel and no smell of oil at all. The truck has 230ish miles and there are no maintenance records.air filter was new.
View 7 Replies
OK . So here's the deal. My 2000 7.3 ford f250 170k miles. Going from phx az to flagstaff az . For some reason I'm hitting about 40 miles per hour with the pedal all the way down going up a decent grade. Seems like something isn't giving the motor power. I'm pulling a 28 ft toy hauler pretty much empty . Under 5800 pounds . What this could be . Also was get pretty close to the red on water temp gauge.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2000 7.3 I've been struggling to figure out why I do not have a lot of power below 2k rpm... The truck screws once it gets above 2k.
Assuming it was a turbo issue - I had the turbo rebuilt and put the wicked wheel in. Made a huge difference overall but truck still bogs under 2k.
No leaks in up pipes, they have been replaced recently. What the problem could be?
View 7 Replies
I have a 1999 7.3 with 260k miles. It is all stock with the exception of straight pipe. I got the truck about 8 months ago and have put about 5k miles on it. Have never had any issues with it. I was driving from Dallas to Houston and about 45 minutes into the trip my truck lost power. I was going about 65-70 mph and the service engine line came on and I lost power. It was running rough and was blowing white smoke. I let it sit for a couple minutes and started it back up and ran fine until 30 minutes later. It did this 2 more times on the way to Houston. Oil is good, coolant is good. Not over heating. Threw a code the first time but didn't throw it the other times. I brought it to a mechanic and he thinks it's the Wastegate.
View 14 Replies
2000 F250, 7.3, 170K, running rough, knocking loudly, missing, shaking, no power to get up driveway, intermittent, no codes spit out at all. No smoke visible, no leaks visible, New fuel filter, air filter, update cam sensor, new fuel rail lift pump, new uvc harness, new glow plug relay.
View 14 Replies
I pulled with my 2000 F250 7.3 for the first time yesterday pulling a 12,500 5th wheel and then again today with an 18 ft ski boat weighting around 3500 for both the trailer and boat. I had this same issue pulling both.
Today when pulling the boat/trailer i was behind a slow moving truck and when we hit a hill with a passing lane i merged over and wanted to start passing him. We started off at around 45 mph up the hill and as I started pushing the pedal I wasn't gaining any speed and my rpm's didn't even get over 1500. It felt like a stall and continued that at around 45-50 mph up the hill (about a 65 degree slope). When I'm not towing the truck runs great, plenty of power and averaging around 16 1/2 mpg.
Only mods i have is a 6647 Napa filter, muffler delete and it's running the same 4 position TS tuner from the original owner. During normal operation I run it at the 75hp gain and when towing i use the 50hp gain.
In both instances i could see black smoke coming from exhaust when pushing the pedal but my rpm's wouldn't go up and truck maintained the slow speed going up the hill. Once at the top it drove normal and picked up speed without any problems.
View 14 Replies
I need a wiring diagram for my 2000 F-350 power mirrors also to go along with the power window schematics that I posted before.
View 8 Replies
