Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Got Error Code P1464?
May 21, 2016
Well I thought my truck was 100%, and I was going to installed a Chip. I decided to get my Forscan up and running to check and make sure.
The Buzz test Passed with no problems.
The cylinder contribution did not pass. I got error code P1464, which Forscan said that #8 failed. FYI, I turned the A/C on and the test failed. I ran it again with the A/C off and it failed again. I might have the wrong code
I then went to where you could select the gauges to view(PID's). And I saw where you could select all the cylinders injectors individually. I forgot what it was called, but all injectors were reading close to 0.0% at idle except for #8 it was reading 5.55% to 5.88%.
I am hoping this is good news, since I rather the injector be bad then a piston ring or valve. I just got the Forscan and was wondering what other test or other things I could check to narrow the problem down before removing the Valve covers. The truck runs great and there is no miss and it turns over smooth. No blowbye, just runs great. It is a 2000 F-350 dually with just over 202,000 miles
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2000 truck, 334k, automatic 2wd, stock. Have low power, 11psi max.
Permanent p0472 code, can't clear it even temporarily. The moment I turn the key to Acc, code is there. It's the only code showing on Forscan.
Tried 470ohm 1/2watt resistor, in two turbo pedestal sensor connector wires, no change. Forscan shows 0.0-0.6 psi EBP value when running.
No change with pedestal sensor plugged or unplugged. Resistor or not. Truck starts and runs good, low power is the only issue.
Sensor and tube are new. Seems like wiring is bad, where to look next to track this down?
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I went and got my truck smog and it failed because of this code. I then changed the sensor cleaned out the tube and I still can't figure out how to get rid of the error code?
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I'm trying to get my truck smogged and having problems w/po475. A friend of a friend said it was the DFPE sensor. So I bought one but can't find where it goes. On YouTube it is only listed for F150's and gas motors it seems. I have a 00 f350SD 7.3, do I even have a DFPE and if so where is it located.
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Just a heads up when it comes to this code. Today at work I was working on a 2000 f350 that the driver neglected on telling me he had a CEL on and truck was kind of sluggish (drivers are idiots they cant tell the difference) but no miss or any sign of problem except the CEL (he had electrical tape on the cluster. Well I put my AE to see the vitals and immediately code p1316, so I went to do a buzz test revealing that cylinder 1,3,5,7,6 were short to open circuit (forgot the codes) but they all sounded healthy. My next step since it was a quick and easy to do was to check the passenger side uvch to see for burnt pins and what not but everything checked out.
Checked the driver side #6 cyl for the same problem bit a no go. I ohm tested the injectors all of them checked out, wires all the way to the idm checked out so at this point I was in my atemp to see what the hell was going on I decided to install my obs idm on, and guess what happened next it worked immediately the sel did not come up and when I test drove it, my god it felt like a new truck.
Just a side note the idm, had no sign of water damage, and like mentioned to the untrained person most would not tell the difference on how it ran. To anybody that has checked and can't find the problem make sure you really and I mean really check your IDM really good.
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I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine. I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
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After installing new glow plugs, glow plug relay, and valve cover gaskets my 2000 7.3 is throwing the 1395 code. Glow plug monitor Bank 1. Any input as to cause? Checked all connections to relay. All tight. Read something about fusible link. Where that is located? One side of relay reads 0 volts.
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2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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Recently I have had many problems with my 2000 7.3l .... The one I cant get rid of is the p1316 code. I have changed out the uvc harness and gasket with new ones, then removed valve cover's to double check connections again and they are fine. I am getting white smoke and the truck misses. I do not have a advanced reader for the codes just using my edge programmer. I have also disconnected the battery and cleared the code but it comes right back.
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Story starts when I was cruising down the freeway and the truck cut out, seemed like a CPS or Injector related issue - seemed like a whole cylinder bank cut out. Stopped truck on shoulder, she shuttered and died. Turned truck off and restarted, ran like a top for about 4 miles then did the same again. I restarted it again and drive it straight home, ran like it I usually did.
As soon as I arrived home I did a little research and learned to start with CPS. I replaced my grey CPS with a new, Ford grey CPS. Truck fired up, ran the same that it did before - not the best idle but at 302k I was content. Drove it for a few days and it did it again, hobbled the truck home, although it did do it a few times and the last time it did it was really hard to start.
I replaced the IDM through NAPA. She's a work truck so I wasn't going to splurge for a Swamp Unit, the NAPA one came with an 18-Month Warrenty. She started right up afterward, the smoothest idle I had ever felt and she ran great, except for an SES. I ran the code and it was an IDM code, ran a buzz test and it pulled injector #5 high/low error, but it buzzed (a bit quieter than the others).
Here's the weirdest part, when the motor is cold the SES is constant, but as it warms up it only shows under power and sometimes flashes off at certain RPMs (1700-1900 and 2100-2300) and turns off when engine braking (TC locked) returns at idle. NO engine lights with the old IDM. I've checked the wiring to the injector from the 42-pin to the outer connector. (.6-.7 ohms, what my meter reads without any loads) Injector (from outer connector) reads 3.2 ohms. UVCH is less then 2 months old (GP issues) injectors have less than 5k on them.
Why? New injector solenoid? Bad IDM? Is it possible my last one never fired #5 and it got stuck? Or did my old IDM fry #5? Also I'm going to keep driving it and maybe it'll clear up, there was one drive I took where it cleared up completely. I've done some extensive research on this an i'm stumped. With the new IDM the truck has run better then it ever has.
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Truck wont start idm communication error all the fuses are good and the relay seams good I switched it out with another relay 340,000 miles how do I know if its the IDM r not... I'm sure the idm is not cheap...
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I had new glow plugs installed 3 weeks ago. Ran fine since. Today, first cold day. No start, oil pressure gauge does not move off zero, interceptor reads ICP 126. Oil level is good. WTS light does come on. Checked fuse 19 as I saw on another thread, it is good.
P1670 and 0381. My ford software is down, trying to reinstall. As soon as it is reinstalled, I can go thru the step process?
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My CEL is on and I pulled this code...I made the mistake of using a Hypertech programmer and the code came on soon after. I do have a stock code I saved from my SCT, would it fix it if I put it back in?
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Here's the story. Truck has showed no signs of rough running. Wife drives truck around town. Truck up to temperature and doing fine on a 90 degree day. Stops at red light. Makes left turn engine light comes on truck seems to be running on 4 cylinders. Pulls over light goes off engine idles perfect. Pulls back on road light on no power. Gets truck to a local friends house lets it sit til I get off work.
I check for codes get p1316. Drive truck toward my house no problems for 4-5 miles then does the above with me. Limp it home. I know it is pointing at a wire problem to injectors and or IDM. Did a buzz test passed fine. Plan on pulling valve covers and looking for the usuall things. Any thing I am missing? What will a kOEO test tell me? Should I run one? How common is IDM to go out? One last thing just put a rebuilt transmission in it 3 days ago may be unrelated it seems to be doing fine.
2003 f-350 cc 7.3.
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As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
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What do I do? Do I need a new IDM?
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Truck was towed into my shop for no start. Mechanic diag as hpop pump. He is no longer here. R&R hpop with thourobred reman pump. Truck still a no start. only code is for EBP. Spacer is behind tin nut of ipr. Starter spins motor as it should. No blown fuses. WTS light works. No oil in icp or ipr sensors. GPR voltage is good. Tach moves when cranking. Disconnect ICP still no start and has 65% duty cycle. IPR has 500-1000psi the first 2sec of cranking then it drops and fluctuates 180-480. Add direct power to ipr and get 660psi the first 2sec of cranking then drops
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00' 7.3 is acting a little strange lately. i was towing a 15 foot trailer the other day for about 250 miles that wasn't all that heavy and my foot felt like it was very close to the floor. I had it to the floor and the truck would only go 60. now even without that trailer its better but still i feel as if i have to really put my foot down into it to speed up. if i go all the way to the floor in o/d it'll downshift and start speeding up but very very slowly then i run out of pedal and am at the floor, a lot slower than before. Before i wouldn't get to the floor and id already be moving pretty good. but now i gotta keep it pretty much 3/4 way down and keep it there to get up to speed and stay there. truck has 253k no tuner or programmer just 6637 intake and an exhaust, ww2. leveled on 35's. the tranny isn't slipping or at least doesn't seem to be. She doesn't shift perfect but its not anything crazy bad for stock with 253k on it. maybe something wrong with the actual pedal? or hopefully not but maybe the trans or motor , or maybe a sensor or something?
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I purchased a 2000 excursion with the 7.3 a couple of weeks ago. The guy said originally in the add that it need #2 and #8 injectors replaced. When I went and looked at it he had already replaced them and said the it still has no power and needed the remaining 6 replaced. I purchased it as it was a good deal thinking I should be able to get it fixed for worst case a set of injectors. BTW the engine has little to no blowby and starts easy and idles great.
The problem it it will not build any boost (has external boost gauge). Actually the gauge only shows vacuum. With the truck in park or neutral you can slowly rev the motor to 2500rpm and all seems fine but as soon as you break past 2500rpm it sound like it is missing and starts blowing white smoke. The smoke smells like when a diesel heater runs out of diesel. If you try and drive it it has NO power and will not move out of its own way and will eventually start like it is missing and blowing white smoke.
The previous owner replaced the following:
#2 injector
#8 injector
UVC gaskets
MAP Sensor
Wastegate solenoid sensor
The first thing I did was start looking at the no boost issue and pulled the turbo. I deleted the EBPV while i was there. Also the turbine wheel was in very bad shape so i replaced the turbine wheel, shaft, seals, bushings and installed a new compressor wheel 5+5 wheel off ebay. Reinstalled turbo and the symptoms are the same. I also replaced the clamps on the spider with Tbolt clamps instead of the worm gear styles and it psi tested all piping and intercooler to 30psi with no leaks. Also the up pipes have already been replaced with the bellowed style so there are no leaks and it has a 4" straight exhaust.
I have since ordered oring kits for the injectors and also ordered the fittings for the fuel bowl so i can check fuel pressure. it has a new air filter, oil filter, oil and fuel filter installed.
The ICP sensor has oil in the plug but if i unplug it the symptoms are still there.
I have also used a scanner and the ICP pressure is approx 500psi at idle and the duty cycle is about 11% at idle. Also the HPOP looks to be new as it is very clean compared to the surrounding parts and i have checked the HPOP reservoir and it is full to withing 1/2" from the threads.
2000 Excursion
7.3
205000 miles
I am assuming that the injectors are original other than #2 and #8.
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I have a F350 that has intermittent power loss.
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