Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F350 Would Not Start / Motor Fire For A Split Second
Nov 10, 2016
The night temperture was only about 37 degrees. But every morning my 2000 F-350 7.3 crew cab 188,000 on it would not start. The first try there would be a split second where the motor would fire, but that would be it. I had to plug the engine block heater into my generator for at least an hour before it would start. I don't see how all the glow plugs could be bad at once??
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 ... A couple weeks ago I noticed that it was taking longer to start then it should be. Now I have to cycle the key switch 3 or 4 time to get it to start. There is a clicking coming from the relay block under the radio. Sometimes the truck will start sometimes it has to be rolled off. I have recently replace the starter and alternator. I have had the batteries tested and they are good. I replaced the two small relays in the block under the radio, one is for the fuel pump and the other I understand is for the door locks? I also read on here the large blue one is for the turn signal so I have not changed that one. After all this I still have the same problems.
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While driving my 99 F350 7.3 it died and I was lucky enough to coast home. No WTS light, no tach movement when cranking, no fuel pump, no CEL, Cranks great but no smoke or fire. New CPS & PCM still no lights or tach. Moved relays checked all fuses. WTF is wrong?
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I got a friend of mine that owns a 2000 F350 7.3 with around 280,000 miles. He said that the past 2 days its been turning over longer then normal before it fires. Once started, engine runs same as it always has. No sputtering or hesitations, idles fine, etc. However today, he drove to work, shut it off, then went to start it back up 10 or so mins later and now it will only turn over. Said he's getting fuel and compression is good. Unfortunately i dont know much about Diesel engines.
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I am having trouble getting my 2000 7.3 (200k) to start on the colder mornings. It will crank over fast, but won't start without a lot of tries. Today it took 6 pre-heats and cranks, but on others (and colder days) it has started easier. It does seem to be getting worse though.
I have replaced the glow plug relay recently so it *shouldn't* be that unless the replacement is fried. Starts fine the rest of the day and drives fine, but not in the cooler am (it was about 34 this morning). I also tested the batteries yesterday and while they aren't new, they tested okay.
Also, I read (briefly) about the CPS, but forgot to watch the tach this morning, but did notice it is pushing smoke out when turning over.
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Well, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present.
By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Looking for primers on how the 7.3 PSD works.
Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).
It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).
It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.
Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).
I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.
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Friend's 2000 7.3 wont start, just crank and crank tried to fire but nothing in the cold leave it plugged in and it starts leave it in a shop over night and it starts with a shot of either, he is a truck driver and the truck will sometimes sits for 6 weeks at a time this time 2 weeks before I touched it. He wanted me to install a fuel pump so I did and started the following:
Cracked fuel lines to see if I had fuel psi at both heads
I tested glowplugs they all read at 0.3 on all 8
I have power to harness as the same at both sides of the relay
RPM tach jumps
Oil psi gauge rises
Using my phone I can read hpop and 2000 at cranking (how accurate that is im not 100% sure)
All fuses good
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I just replaced my up pipes, turbo pedestal O-ring, ICP, IPR, New O-rings in all my injectors and torqued to spec, new glow plugs, glow plug relay, oil loom wiring harness, new O-rings on oil cooler, oil filter, oil, and antifreeze. I have tried and tried on upwards of 75 or so time to get it to turn over. A little white smoke came out and it sounded like it wanted to fire up, but only a few times.
I have good batteries and a charger on it, 3-4 tries in 5-10 second bursts or longer if it doesn't lose power every 30 -hr. oil is in HPOP too. just found out my block heater is dead, but I shouldn't need it now. Tach moves a little when I crank it but only when my oil pressure gauge hits half way and that about the time it wants to start and starts white smoking.
2001 F-350 7.3 auto 2wd 4dr longbed 329,611 ml
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I replaced my starter with a new one from car quest yesterday, it was starting to turn the engine over slow. I checked the batteries, they were fine, so went for a new starter. After installing, the new starter turned fast and fine, started the truck ok, but I noticed a fast clicking sound from under the dash. Ran it home and tried to start it up this morning, turns over fast, the clicking sound is still coming from under the dash, but the engine won't fire. Just turns over. When it's turning over the check engine (and all the other dash) lights flash.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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I have a 2000 f250 super duty extended cab with the 7.3 diesel and auto tranny which the tranny was rebuilt by Samco about 7 years ago and I have 337,000 miles on engine I had a oil leak from I believe my oil cooler which I fixed, but I am still losing oil, about a gallon or more every other day and in that time frame I am only driving maybe 30 miles. I have no drips, and I seriously don't believe it's burning because the truck is not smoking even when you rev the motor up. the bottom of the rear of motor is coated with oil plus as is part of tranny and some front of motor bottom. What to look for?
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I have a 2000 f350 manual transmission with electronic shift transfer case and my 4x4 won't kick on I've put it up on a lift and tried again but the front driveshaft won't spin and the light on my dash for the 4x4 won't work I'm also throwing 4 transfer case codes....
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I need a wiring diagram for my 2000 F-350 power mirrors also to go along with the power window schematics that I posted before.
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00 F250 338k auto
No error codes or warning lights (Forscan verified)
No smoke out of the exhaust
No oil or coolant leaks
Have banging noise from the motor. When cold truck sounds normal, quiet. When it warms up, the banging becomes audible. You can hear it at idle. You can hear it under acceleration. Frequency increases with RPM
When at speed, and letting off the throttle, noise goes away.....comes back when back on the throttle. Any time during driving when I let off, engine quiets down to normal. To me it sounds like exhaust leak, bur not sure how to check for those?
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I have a 2000 F350 4x4 CC 7.3L 323,000 miles auto trans. I have removed my tuner just to make sure that it was not the issue. The truck will run fine then all of a sudden the idle will rise then fall or shudder or go up and down and sometimes it will just Die but it always restarts. No trouble lights at all. I am not sure what is causing the issue?
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2000 F-350 7.3L no gauges or throttle, I checked the fuses and no luck....
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I have a 2000 F350 with a 7.3 I have just set a brand new motor in this truck with everything in it new including the transmission injectors are 175/146 from Thoroughbred Diesel. The engine is Bored 40 over studded heads return regulator system as well as a pre pump filter and a javelin and Hutch mod on the tank. When we went to start this new motor the motor turned over and sounded like it was going to fire off pretty quick but instead I'm just getting white smoke and lots of it.
I failed to mention that the injectors are single shot vs. Split shot and then I did have the programmer Tuned to these injectors through thoroughbred there is no fuel in the oil no water in the oil no oil in the water everything seems to be good all the pressures seem to be good and at this point I am lost no one that I have found in the area, where to begin. Seems to me that this is a loading up issue and it seems to me that the only thing that could be causing this would be programming but I don't know.
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I have. 2001 excursion with a 7.3l deisel. 167100 miles
It runs great but if it sets over night when the motor is cold it will not start.
You have to plug the block heater in for about an hour or more for it to start.
To me it seems like glow plugs are not working? It had new glow plugs out in from the po.
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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2000 f-350 cc srw 4x4 lb. Added a 4inch diamond eye and sct programmer 2 years ago. When I bought it 4 years ago no oil leaks. Last year had a small leak 1 qt every 3000mi. Went camping tuesday when we got there 1 Gallon low and a camper covered in oil. On the way home used 2 more gallons and topped it off with another gallon before parking. Checked the dip stick tube connection no luck.
Cleaned top off with simple green and garden hose finding the drain hole in the back clogged and valley full of oil. Got the front half clean and checked for leaks and found none front valley is still clean.
Had the wife run it up to 2000 rpm for a minute when she let off the throttle and when it slowed got a 3 second stream of oil from the cover at the back of the oil pan. CEL came on code 1280 found oil in the ICP plug ( will order that with orings and tool for hpop for preventative). Removed the air crossover to the turbo and still oil in the back half cleaned it all out and drying now.
Checked the plugs at the back of the engine and they are clean. Where should I look for the leak to be at?
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I have a 2000 F350 super duty 7.3 turbo diesel. It has 189 000 kms or about 150 000 miles. I have had problems all winter with my engine. I can drive it for days and then without warning she quits. She will not start right away but sometimes, if I drain the fuel filter and try her she fires right up and runs for about 10 minutes then quits again. If I wait a few hours, while waiting for a tow truck, she may start and again run for days but she may not...
I have a good friend who is a mechanic, and a cracker jack at it, but he is dumfounded as to what the problem is. She does not show any codes and my buddy has a computer analyser.
So far he has done what others have suggested including changing, Crank Sensor, IPR sensor, ICP sensor, new Lift pump, Fuel pressure regulator, and removed emptied and cleaned the fuel tank and suction lines.
All this to no success. Now we have run out of thoughts. All week I drove her without problem till yesterday when she quit again. There is no set time, weather condition or anything to suggest a problem so I reach out for a solution. The truck is in mint condition and very, very, far from being condemned but this is frustrating.
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