Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F350 - Slight Hesitation With Throttle While Driving Mostly In Lower Gears
Mar 29, 2016
(2000 F-350, 7.3L, 205k miles) Over this weekend, I noticed while driving mostly in the lower gears, that there was a slight hesitation with the throttle pedal depressed about half way or less. Seem to get worse as the day went by, but no lights or anything came on. Changed the fuel filter and added a fuel injection cleaner to the tank. Checked the oil and it was low, so I filled it to the correct amount.
Drove it around the next day, and it seemed to be good, until it warmed up some, and continued to hesitate. The hesitation seems as if it's not getting constant fuel, and the truck jerks a little. Once you get up to over 2000 rpms, it goes away. Looking up other reviews on similar issues, most have pointed to the throttle pedal sensor and just changed out the pedal assembly. Before I take it that far, I wanted to see what was the corrective action.
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Last night I bought 2000 F250, 346k on it... Crew cab short bed 4x4 with ranch hand bumpers like I wanted .... Headed back home (Miami FL ~1100mi) and covered about 200 miles @70-75mph before i ran into few problems ....
First off, while cruising I noticed slight hesitation in the throttle, with loss of speed regardless of pedal pressure, noticeable on inclines. It would go away on downhill and get smooth response again and pick up speed. This went on for about 40 miles.
Then I noticed heater blower stop blowing hot and start blowing cold, without me changing any settings. At the same moment, I noticed temp gauge move up and I hit next exit offramp to check what's up. During right turn at the end of off ramp truck stalled. Pulled to the shoulder, and popped hood.
Noticed empty degass/overflow bottle. Carefully opened lid and water gushed up to the top. When all pressure slowly released, water pulled down and emptied the bottle. Both upper and lower radiator hoses are empty. Engine oil has no traces of water tho. There were no leaks under the truck. I then tried to fire up the truck to get me to the gas station 1/8th mile away.
No crank in Park. WTS comes on and goes off. Cranks in Neutral, RPMs come up some, oil pressure shoots up to normal running position, but won't fire. Tried a while then gave up as not to kill starter and batteries completely.
Fuel pump works 20 sec then shuts off. There is fuel in bowl. I covered 140 miles since last full fill up, so not fuel pickup issue I don't think.
Summary
Have crank
Have RPM
Have oil pressure
Have fuel
Have (had) batteries, now not so hot
It's cold out ....
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2000 F-350 7.3L no gauges or throttle, I checked the fuses and no luck....
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Ok, still working out some issues: It may be normal, but I hear (not feel) a slight roar when I'm pressing throttle petal very lightly. Seems to do it as we'll when I'm backing off throttle but it stops when I let off pedal completely. Not there when I get into the pedal. Not the tires because it stops all together when I get off throttle and let it roll. Turbo maybe ? Rear end (wouldn't it do it even when rolling)? No vibrations at all....just a little roar.
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My truck will set an idle fine but when I hit the throttle it will die.
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I have a 2000 7.3 I've been struggling to figure out why I do not have a lot of power below 2k rpm... The truck screws once it gets above 2k.
Assuming it was a turbo issue - I had the turbo rebuilt and put the wicked wheel in. Made a huge difference overall but truck still bogs under 2k.
No leaks in up pipes, they have been replaced recently. What the problem could be?
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A little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?
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Bought the truck 1000 miles from home, ran great, checked oil it was black and well used, coolant was milky and degas bottle had some pressure in it.
Drove 200 miles fine, 75mph lots of power, no smoke, no overheating.
While cruising felt slight stumble, and lost hot air from the heater (started blowing cold), saw temp needle move slightly (still under 1/2 mark) and pulled over. Truck stalled on the offramp, and I was not able to get it to fire. I checked oil and it was same dark black. Coolant was low, down to about 2.5 gallons.
Towed it home, oil change, coolant flush, new thermostat, rebuilt IPR, and it fired right up. Ran great, smooth. Noticed slight haze out of the exhaust at idle, and puffs of white smoke when on throttle. Checked oil and it was milky. Where to look?
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I have a 2000 f350 manual transmission with electronic shift transfer case and my 4x4 won't kick on I've put it up on a lift and tried again but the front driveshaft won't spin and the light on my dash for the 4x4 won't work I'm also throwing 4 transfer case codes....
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I need a wiring diagram for my 2000 F-350 power mirrors also to go along with the power window schematics that I posted before.
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I have a strange issue and it happens very sporadic. Sometime it occurs at startup, sometimes while driving. Not sure whether it is limp mode, but I have no throttle. It starts fine, idles, but no throttle. Like I said, sometimes it happens while driving and I have to pull over and shut it down and restart. Mods are few, it has an airaid air filter and I had the turbo rebuilt and egr delete both completed in May. FICM was rebuilt by ficmrepair.com a couple years ago. It does seem to happen more often when it is raining or with a heavy dew after sitting for many hours. 128k.
I adjusted the pedals all the way out and back in and it stopped for almost 5 weeks, but it has been pretty dry here in SW Ohio. then it got really foggy one day and rained the next and it has started again. Could it be that the EGR pigtail is getting moisture. It does not throw a CEL and my scan gauge II shows no codes. I did run a dose of hotshot's secret thru the fuel back in may, ran a couple tanks of fuel, then changed the filters with OEM. I have had this truck for almost 3 years, but still a newbie when it comes to diesels.
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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I have a 2000 F350 4x4 CC 7.3L 323,000 miles auto trans. I have removed my tuner just to make sure that it was not the issue. The truck will run fine then all of a sudden the idle will rise then fall or shudder or go up and down and sometimes it will just Die but it always restarts. No trouble lights at all. I am not sure what is causing the issue?
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 ... A couple weeks ago I noticed that it was taking longer to start then it should be. Now I have to cycle the key switch 3 or 4 time to get it to start. There is a clicking coming from the relay block under the radio. Sometimes the truck will start sometimes it has to be rolled off. I have recently replace the starter and alternator. I have had the batteries tested and they are good. I replaced the two small relays in the block under the radio, one is for the fuel pump and the other I understand is for the door locks? I also read on here the large blue one is for the turn signal so I have not changed that one. After all this I still have the same problems.
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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I have an early 99 F-350 with 268K miles. It is bone stock right down to the factory exhaust. A couple months ago I started have a rough idle and surging while driving problem. I never got a check engine light but I borrowed a scan tool from a friend and pulled the following codes: P1690 (wastegate solenoid), P0381 (glow plug circuit malfunction), P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault, and P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution/Balance Fault.
I did some research and everything I read said it was most likely the CPS. So I changed the CPS. The truck ran fine for for a few days but then it started acting up again occasionally. I noticed that most of the time when it acted up was at start up when the engine was cold and I also figured out that if I shut the truck off and re-started it (sometimes I had to do it 2 or 3 times) it would clear up and run normal.
A buddy of mine that has a 2000 F-250 said he had a similar problem with his truck and it ended up being the ICP sensor. We switched his ICP with mine and I changed my oil at the same time (because it was due for an oil change). My truck ran flawless for over 2-weeks (over 200 miles) so I put a new ICP in my truck. Note: my buddy did not experience any problems with his truck with my ICP in it.
I've put about 700 miles on the new IPR and the truck has started to act up again. Once again shutting the truck off & re-starting it will clear it up and still no check engine light. I took it to a local "diesel specialty shop" while it was running rough and they hooked it to their scanner and got P1280 (Inj. Control Pressure Low), P1690 (Wastegate Solenoid Fault), P0381 (Glow Plug Indicator), P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution / Balance Fault, and P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution / Balance Fault.
They never did anything other than hook it to a machine & check the codes but their diagnosis is my High Pressure Oil Pump is going bad and my #3 and #8 injectors are going bad. They recommended I let them replace all 8 injectors and the High Pressure Oil Pump. The problem I have is they can't give me a REASONABLE explanation as to why re-starting the truck a few times clears up the problem.
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2000 f-350 cc srw 4x4 lb. Added a 4inch diamond eye and sct programmer 2 years ago. When I bought it 4 years ago no oil leaks. Last year had a small leak 1 qt every 3000mi. Went camping tuesday when we got there 1 Gallon low and a camper covered in oil. On the way home used 2 more gallons and topped it off with another gallon before parking. Checked the dip stick tube connection no luck.
Cleaned top off with simple green and garden hose finding the drain hole in the back clogged and valley full of oil. Got the front half clean and checked for leaks and found none front valley is still clean.
Had the wife run it up to 2000 rpm for a minute when she let off the throttle and when it slowed got a 3 second stream of oil from the cover at the back of the oil pan. CEL came on code 1280 found oil in the ICP plug ( will order that with orings and tool for hpop for preventative). Removed the air crossover to the turbo and still oil in the back half cleaned it all out and drying now.
Checked the plugs at the back of the engine and they are clean. Where should I look for the leak to be at?
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I have a 2000 F350 super duty 7.3 turbo diesel. It has 189 000 kms or about 150 000 miles. I have had problems all winter with my engine. I can drive it for days and then without warning she quits. She will not start right away but sometimes, if I drain the fuel filter and try her she fires right up and runs for about 10 minutes then quits again. If I wait a few hours, while waiting for a tow truck, she may start and again run for days but she may not...
I have a good friend who is a mechanic, and a cracker jack at it, but he is dumfounded as to what the problem is. She does not show any codes and my buddy has a computer analyser.
So far he has done what others have suggested including changing, Crank Sensor, IPR sensor, ICP sensor, new Lift pump, Fuel pressure regulator, and removed emptied and cleaned the fuel tank and suction lines.
All this to no success. Now we have run out of thoughts. All week I drove her without problem till yesterday when she quit again. There is no set time, weather condition or anything to suggest a problem so I reach out for a solution. The truck is in mint condition and very, very, far from being condemned but this is frustrating.
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Just a heads up when it comes to this code. Today at work I was working on a 2000 f350 that the driver neglected on telling me he had a CEL on and truck was kind of sluggish (drivers are idiots they cant tell the difference) but no miss or any sign of problem except the CEL (he had electrical tape on the cluster. Well I put my AE to see the vitals and immediately code p1316, so I went to do a buzz test revealing that cylinder 1,3,5,7,6 were short to open circuit (forgot the codes) but they all sounded healthy. My next step since it was a quick and easy to do was to check the passenger side uvch to see for burnt pins and what not but everything checked out.
Checked the driver side #6 cyl for the same problem bit a no go. I ohm tested the injectors all of them checked out, wires all the way to the idm checked out so at this point I was in my atemp to see what the hell was going on I decided to install my obs idm on, and guess what happened next it worked immediately the sel did not come up and when I test drove it, my god it felt like a new truck.
Just a side note the idm, had no sign of water damage, and like mentioned to the untrained person most would not tell the difference on how it ran. To anybody that has checked and can't find the problem make sure you really and I mean really check your IDM really good.
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My 00 F350 has never started when the temps were below 25 unless it was plugged in. This year is no different, but now it won't start when it's plugged in. It just turned 200K and I know things have to be checked, but I don't like doing them in the winter so I was hoping to make it through this winter and fix things. I needed to use the truck the other day so I plugged it in before I went to bed, It wouldn't start, so I got looking, crawled under the truck and the block around the heater was cold, checked the plug with an ohm meter and it showed that there was an open, so I checked the cord, sure enough there's a splice in it, with a broken wire, so I fix all three splices, check it again and it's still open, under the truck again, and find another splice at the end of the factory wire loom with a broke wire, got them replaced, got a good reading with the meter, and now I'm back in business, Plugged it in for a couple of hours, hit the key and it fired like it was new. Well not that good but it did start.
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